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Cooking, Family Stories, Food and Drink, Holidays, Jen's Kitchen, Photography, Sipping Espresso, Wine

Thanksgiving in Italy

Can you believe that they don’t celebrate Thanksgiving here in Italy?!  They also don’t celebrate the Fourth of July, Memorial Day or Labor Day!  I know weird, right?!

Our Thanksgiving table is set
Thanksgiving is one of my favorite holidays.  Of course I love the spirit of Christmas, the fun costumes of Halloween (another holiday that they don’t really celebrate), the fireworks of our Independence Day… but nothing can match the guilt-free ability to gorge on delicious food all…day…long!  And if that wasn’t good enough, you are then permitted… nah, encouraged to lay on your duff and watch football until it’s time to re-heat a plate of leftovers.
Julia was Superwoman for Halloween this year –
even though she was one of few kids dressed up
We knew that we weren’t going to give up our tradition of Thanksgiving just because we are living in another country.  In fact, we were excited to share our holiday and traditions with Jen’s relatives. Ideally, we would have eaten our Thanksgiving dinner along with the other people in America (well, six hours ahead anyway) – but we will be out of town during the holiday.  So we decided to host our Thanksgiving dinner early.  Before we could take our first bite of that delicious dinner, we needed to plan a menu.  And if you’ve ever been around my wife when she plans an event… if we have an official menu, then we’ll also need an official outline for the entire week leading up to the event.
I had many small jobs, but the most important – procurement of the bird and selecting the wine.  For the turkey, I went to our local macelleria (butcher shop), Macelleria Ostinelli.  You see, you cannot just go down to the supermarket and pick up a whole turkey.  It simply doesn’t exist here.  Italians eat turkey, but they are either quartered or filleted – never sold whole.  In fact our macellaio (butcher), Marco had to call his “turkey guy”, Lorenzo just to confirm that they could even have a whole turkey delivered within three days.  It was the first whole turkey Marco had ever sold in 20+ years of being a butcher.  We got the green light from Lorenzo and went home to continue planning.
Inside Macelleria Ostinelli
Our macellaio (butcher), Marco prepares our turkey
His son, Paolo and niece, Francesca
“Cook me like one of your French turkeys, Jack”
The turkey was so fresh that it was still red… and needed a few extra feathers plucked
The wine was a much more complicated process.  I went into a wine shop I’ve been wanting to try; one just outside of downtown Como.  The selections of fine Italian wine seemed endless.  I chose three wines that are classified as Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG), a designation that connotes some of Italy’s best-known and highest quality wine.
A trio of wine from all over Italy
I opted to start our meal with a Barbaresco (having recently come back from Piemonte).  I picked a 2003 Vigneto Loreto from Albino Rocca – a producer that obtains their [nebbiolo] grapes from the finest area in the region.  I thought that the balanced flavor profile of this Barbaresco would do nicely to awaken our palates.
2003 Barbaresco Abino Rocca, Vigneto Loreto
For our second wine, I selected a 2008 Brunello di Montalcino.  Tuscany is known for many things and their wine is nothing short of spectacular.  Agostina Pieri produces a fine example of the wine that incorporates one of my favorite Italian grapes, Sangiovese.  The bold flavors would serve as a nice progression from the more tannic and refined Barbaresco.
2008 Brunello di Montalcino Agostina Pieri
Finally, I wanted a wine to shout from the rooftops – so I chose a big, bold Amarone della Valpolicella.  Jen and I were just recently introduced to this type of wine by my uncle, and it was love at first taste.  A unique harvest and fermentation process yield a ripe, raisiny and full-bodied wine that jumps across your tongue and waltzes with your tastebuds.  How could this not be the perfect wine to finish the afternoon?!  Cantina di Soave produces a wonderful Amarone, Rocca Alata.
Amarone Cantina di Soave, Rocca Alata
The night before our guests arrive, I helped Jen set the table.  Well, I mainly played defense against Julia while Jen set the table.  I let her get a goal past me the next day when she ripped up part of the bouquet just before our guests arrived!
Jen’s table
We used seasonal flowers as part of the decoration
A place setting
A napkin before it got messy with delicious food
Center bouquet
Julia got to the other bouquet – I love her look as if to say, “I didn’t do it”
Jen had perfectly timed the turkey to come out and rest next to all of our antipasti.  I am willing to bet that we hosted one of the few thanksgiving dinners in the world to start with olives, grissini (Italian breadsticks), salami and parmigiano.  Our 7.4 kg (16.3 lb) turkey was quite the showstopper as Jen’s Italian relatives walked in.  It was one of the first times ever that I have seen Italians take out their cell phones to take pictures of food.  For them, food should be eaten – not photographed (I’ve been called, pazzo more than once).  So it was quite a reward for all our hard work to see jaws dropped and cell phones flashing.
Our welcome table
The turkey came out moist and delicious
36-month aged Parmesano cheese and olives
Speck and salami
Grissini
Let’s get the party started
Let’s get the wine decanted…
This is going to be good
After proscecco and antipasti, we each took turns taking family photos on the balcony.  I’m glad that Jen suggested this – it gave each family a nice keepsake from a pleasant afternoon.
My girls
Love this peanut
Gianni and Giusi along with their son Marco and daughter Sara
Massimo and Alessandra with their daughter Bea
You know this cast – Greg and Jen with our daughter, Julia
Franco and Claudia – Franco actually smiles for a photo!!
We eventually made our way to the table for our first course, a squash soup with parmesano croutons.
Now we’re ready to really dig in
A drizzle of fine olive oil enhances the taste and presentation
Franco took a picture of the soup as well as the turkey – this was a first!
Next, we brought out all the food.  We had the stuffing (I had to explain it as “cooked bread”).  We had mashed the potatoes.  We had the gravy – “questa è una salsa” (this is a sauce).  Pouring a “sauce” over everything was definitely a foreign concept.  Claudia made the vegetables – green beens and a ratatouille.  And of course, we had the turkey.  A roasted lemon sage turkey that was delicious.  I explained that the goal was to cram your plate so full that none of the plate was visible.  Jen’s cousins Gianni and Marco understood the goal… no one else quite got it.  We went around the table to say what we were most thankful for and dug in.
A plate of the carved turkey
Claudia’s vegetables
Jen’s stuffing
My plate – a proper American Thanksgiving plate
Franco’s plate – he didn’t quite get the idea to cover it
Alessandra plays around with Bea, who has likely never seen a turkey leg
Gianni brought a delicious wine that we opened
We never even finished my selections
When we had finally finished eating our dinner, it was time for dessert.  Jen made a wonderfully American apple pie.  Her cousins Alessandra and Giusi were surprised when she told them that she made her own pie crust from scratch.  When they tasted it, they both immediately asked for the recipe (which secretly filled me with pride for my wife).  Giusi was so cute, she literally took out a notepad, ready to write – Jen had to promise to work on the measurement conversions and translation and email it at a later date.  Equally as impressive was the torte (pie) that Alessandra made.  Jen’s birthday had just passed and so she added a surprise element to the dessert.  It tasted every bit as good as it looked.
Jen’s apple pie
Alessandra’s torte
I have to say – Jen’s first Thanksgiving Dinner was A-M-A-Z-I-N-G!!  There were no hiccups, very little stress and it was absolutely delicious!
Of course, we finished the day off with grappa and whiskey and the most important part of Thanksgiving… a game of football on the television.  Only, it wasn’t a game.  It was a match.  And it wasn’t football.  It was fùtbol (soccer).  Oh well, you work with what you’ve got.
Our grappa and whiskey
Teenaged girls are the same in any country
Julia puts on a performance
Jen did Sara’s hair – I thought she looked beautiful
Soccer plays on the TV – not quite the football game I’m used to after a Thanksgiving dinner
I hope you enjoyed!
In case you’re interested in viewing the menu that Jen created, I copied and pasted her menu (and then, without her permission… her outline)!  Shhhh, don’t tell.
Menu
Antipasti
Cheese
Salami
Speck
Olives
Breadsicks
Wine: Proscecco – 2012 Cantina Trevigiana
            Pignoletto – 2012 Righi Reno
Primo
Squash Soup with Parmesan Croutons
Wine: Barbaresco – 2003 Vigneto Loreto (Albino Loreto)
 
Secondo
Roasted Lemon Sage Turkey
Gravy
Stuffing
Mashed potatoes
Green beans with shallots
Claudia’s ratatouille
Wine: Brunello di Montalcino – 2008 Agostina Pieri
            Amarone Della Valpolicella – 2009 Rocca Alata
Dolce
American Apple Pie
Alessandra’s Torta con marmellata
Drinks: Espresso, Grappa

Jen’s Outline [CONFIDENTIAL]

Thursday

Iron table cloth and napkins

Friday

Make Squash Soup
Prep Stuffing
Friday Shopping
Grate Cheese
Dry the bread for stuffing

Saturday

Pick up Turkey
Buy Flowers
Arrange Flowers
Brine Turkey
Make Pie
Make Stuffing
Set the table
Wash pots in the dishwasher
Make mashed potatoes
Make compound butter for turkey

Sunday

6:30 – Turkey comes out of the refrigerator and 2 sticks of butter
7:00 – Take compound butter out of the refrigerator and prep turkey
7:15 – Pre heat oven
7:45 – Turkey goes in the oven
8:00 – Jen and Julia shower
9:00 – Make croutons and fry sage for soup
9:30 – Take stuffing and potatoes out of the fridge
11:15 – Turkey comes out of the oven to rest and stuffing needs to be made
11:25 – Prepare Gravy
11:50 – Greg to cut salami and speck
12:00 – Put stuffing and potatoes in the oven and set up Antipasti
12:30 – Guests arrive
1:00 – Lunch is served

Agriturismo, Emilia-Romagna, Food, Food and Drink, Humor, Markets, Restaurants, Shopping, Sipping Espresso, Travel - Italy, Wine

Loosen Those Belt Buckles – Some Serious Eating Ahead

Before I’ve even written the first word of this post, my OCD brain is trying to figure out if this post should be categorized under the “Food” or the “Travel” sections of the blog.  I will be taking you along with us on our travel adventure to go eat some of Italy’s best food.  It’s quite the dilemma…

A selection of salumi (cold cuts), formaggi (cheese) and the cinghiale (boar) that gave his life to the cause

You may have read about part of our visit with Aunt Deb and Uncle S where we ventured into the wine region of Piemonte during the first portion of their visit.  Their two week sojourn in Italy included a mission to explore the best of what the country has to give.  It was no coincidence then, that their adventure had been neatly divided into three of the country’s best offerings.  Part I was Vino (wine).  Party II was Cibo (food) – the subject of today’s post.  Lastly, Part III was Storia (history).  Since they experienced the rich history of Pompeii and Venezia on their own, I will let them tell you all about it at their next dinner party.  I’ll simply report on the parts during which we were present… and luckily for us, we were present for a three day trip into Italy’s richest “food region”, Emilia-Romagna.

“Now I’m hungry – let’s eat!”

I always laugh when I speak to Italians about their trips to the United States.  Before they even tell me, I know that they’ve been to New York City and then Miami (bypassing Washington DC; a detail they don’t want to admit but one that I always extract).  If they’re fortunate enough to have a lengthy stay, they will then travel to Las Vegas on their way to Los Angeles.  Occasionally, they may venture up the coast to San Francisco before returning home.  That’s it.  Every.  Single.  Time.  Heck, I don’t blame them – they were raised in large part on American cinema, and that’s what most Europeans see as the sum total of the United States – New York and LA.  And of course, who wouldn’t want to throw a trip to Vegas in the mix?!  Likewise – it is the same for Americans coming here.  Where do we go?  Rome.  Milan.  Venice.  Tuscany (Florence and Pisa) and occasionally the Italian Riviera if there’s time.   But there is so much of this country that is left undiscovered (I feel like we travel non-stop and we still haven’t gotten a flavor of more than 10% of Italy).  One region in particular that is largely overlooked is Emilia-Romagna.  Heck, I’m willing to bet you probably haven’t even heard of it!  But there are a few things that I know you know.  You’ve heard of Ferrari, Lamborghini and Maserati.  They’re all produced here, in Emilia-Romagna.  Or aged balsamic vinegar?  That also comes from here, in Modena.  What about parmigiano reggiano (parmesan cheese)?  Or prosciutto?  I’d be wiling to bet that you’ve even heard of Ferrara chocolate.  With culinary delights like these, it’s no wonder that Emilia-Romagna is often considered the “heart” of Italian cuisine.

Vineyards in Emilia-Romagna
S studies the frame of his photograph
The colors at this time of year were stunning
Julia takes a stroll and soaks up all that Emilia-Romagna has to offer

On our first day, we stopped in Parma (of Proscuitto di Parma fame) to begin our culinary escapade. We started small – just panini (sandwiches) at the most popular sandwich place in northern Italy, Pepèn.  I was not at all surprised to learn that this tiny shop that has been around for over 200 years does not have a website.  I think that they figured out the perfect panino (sandwich) somewhere in the past 100 years and have unabashedly decided not to change a thing since (earning them a #1 rating out of 430 restaurants reviewed on TripAdvisor – although calling it a “restaurant” is a stretch).  Uncle S and I crowded into the tiny restaurant and I told the sandwich maestro to give us a mixture of some of his favorite concoctions.  We awoke our taste buds with succulent porchetta, life-changing salsiccia crudo (raw sausage) and mind-altering gamberi piccanti (spicy shrimp) – all on perfectly toasted buns (these were just some examples of our sandwiches – we got many more to share).   Since the place doesn’t really have any seats, we camped out on the steps of Chiesa Cattolica Parrocchiale San Pietro (St. Peter’s Catholic Church Parish) in Piazza Garibaldi Giuseppe to enjoy our delectable treats.

Pepèn is hidden on a small side street – you have to know where you’re going to get there
These two guys have been making panini in this crowded little shop for many years
One package of our delicious panini
We camped out on the stairs of the church to eat our lunch
Julia escorts Deborah and me into the Cattedrale di Parma
Amazing frescoes adorned every single wall in the church
The paintings on the wall were so lifelike I was mesmerized
The ceiling amazed all of us inside the Cathedral
The Baptistery of Parma, commissioned in 1196 by the city counsel of Parma

After a complete and rewarding day in Parma, we drove the forty five minutes to our B&B, just outside of Modena.  After researching for many hours, we had booked a stay at, Locanda Gli Ulivi because it was centrally located to the places we would be visiting and has a wonderful online presence (great reviews and photos across our most reliable travel websites).  We were not disappointed with the place – it was simply wonderful.  Since we were weary road warriors on that first day, we decided to eat at the hotel’s restaurant, Osteria  Clo ‘Filomena that night.  Since the food was so wonderful and I was able to capture a picture of each course, I’ll complete a separate post about that meal.

Locanda Gli Ulivi
“Come on in…”
Our backyard
The pool
A nice place for a picnic
View from immediately across the room
Same place, looking to the right
An olive tree at night inside the property
An old church across the street, lit up by the purple sky of early evening

The next day, we departed with our sights on the largest city and capital of Emilia-Romagna, Bologna.  To most Americans, bologna is a processed meat (that you either love or hate) sandwiched between two pieces of good ol’ fashioned white bread.  In the States, we named “our” bologna after the city that is a major producer of mortadella – a staple meat of Bologna (and very similar – but much, much tastier than “our” bologna).  My bologna has a first-name, and it’s…”send this back and bring me a slice of mortadella, please!”.   To most Europeans, Bologna is much more than just a processed meat.  It is a university town.  Home to the oldest university in the world, University of Bologna, founded in 1088.  Today, the university accepts students from all over the world – eager to complete a full program, or just a study abroad in the seventh most populated city in Italy.  We walked around all day, stopping for a wonderful lunch at Cesari – a selection from S and Deb’s Fodor’s guidebook.  The gang at Fodor’s know what they’re doing, it was a wonderful place.

Cesari was as delicious as it was charming
“Hey… we recognize that wine”
(from a tasting we did at Cantina di Borgogno a few days earlier)

We spent more time walking though this historically significant and important city, before ducking into a building with a much more modern vibe.  Eataly is the brainchild of Oscar Farinetti; a store that is a proud Italian marketplace, selling the best ingredients and offering access to goods that are otherwise hard to acquire on a massive scale (imagine a Whole Foods on steroids that just sells Italian products).  Even though Oscar opened his flagship 30,000 sq. ft store in Torino in 2007, the company really took off with locations around the world (including New York City) when B&B Hospitality Group (Mario Batali and Joe Bastianich) became a partner.   Admittedly, the Bologna location was very underwhelming in size and scale (especially compared to the unique Torino store) – but we were still able to acquire some wonderful salumi (variety of cured meats) and formaggi (cheeses).  That night, we procured reservations at the the most exclusive table in all of Italy – we had a little picnic in S and Deb’s room.

A statue stands near the University of Bologna
Julia becomes taken with a small group of performers
She takes a shot at playing – she started with some Mozart
Julia made a friend in the main piazza
Inside Eataly, our friend helps us select the best meats and cheeses for our picnic
S takes his job selecting for the group very seriously.  Good thing he did, we had a wonderful meal
He cuts us a hard cheese
After our visit to Eataly, we needed a little coffee
I just thought this window was interesting
As well as this ancient building
The table is set
Our salumi (meats)
S and Deb are about to dig in with us

Our final day in Emilia-Romagna was no less packed with activities than the first two.  We had scheduled a visit to the Museo di Ferrari (Ferrari Museum), exploration of Modena (with a stop for lunch) and a balsamic vinegar tasting.  Car enthusiasts the world over can appreciate a visit to the “mecca of all things automotive”.  This is what Modena can offer you – Ferrari and Maserati all have their factories within a few kilometers of the city (Lamborghini moved their headquarters from Modena to Bologna).  Ferrari chose to name one of their models after the city itself (Ferrari Modena 360).  We chose to learn a little bit about the legacy of Enzo Ferrari himself, one of the world’s truest visionaries.  The museum did not disappoint….

Museo Ferrari in Maranello
“Welcome to paradise!” 
An old Ferrari 166 F2
This classic symbol is at the heart of most men’s desires
1966 Ferarri 330 P3
1954 Ferrari 750 Monza
F1 Constructors’
Formula 1 World Champion 2008
Julia and I sure felt like champions
The heart that powers the machine
2013 Ferrari 458 Speciale
These babies can grip – Pirelli is the tire of race professionals
Concept car of the future
This is a clay model – what they use to construct a concept in the early stages of development

After soaking up all things, Ferrari – I drove us (albeit, much slower than a Ferrari could have gone) to the center of Modena.  The town itself is a wonderful place, certainly worthy of a daily visit.  It is believed that the city was already in existence by the 3rd century.  Here in the 21st century, we lucked out and caught an open air market in the center of town.  We were also treated to a marching band that passed us twice as we strolled through the city.

Main piazza in Modena – a street fair had been set up
Julia runs through the city
The streets of Modena were beautiful
S and Julia sit by their new friend
Meanwhile, these two are deep frying pig skins
Crispy, delicious and probably 130% fattening
S bought some prune jam – here he is bottling the jar for S
A marching band happened to pass through as we were in the market
Walking through the city again – there are a lot of pedestrian streets in Modena
Family photo
We ran into the marching band a second time

The day passed by [too] quickly and we had to bid a fond farewell to Modena – we had an important event coming up later that afternoon.  A tasting at one of Modena’s finest producers of aged balsamic vinegar – Acetaia Villa San Donnino.  Since it was such a fun and noteworthy event, I will post about it separately.  After our trip back from Emilia-Romagna, S and Deborah took off for Pompeii and just a few days later, we were hugging our goodbyes.  It’s amazing how quickly time time goes when you are filling it with great food and wine!

Cooking, Food, Jen's Kitchen, Recipes, Sipping Espresso

Don’t Buy The Jarred Stuff!

I know this is Jen’s Kitchen, but I’m sorry to report that you’ve got me (Greg) writing this one. This area of the blog is Jen’s domain – but she was having trouble getting her writing juices going, so I offered to give her a hand (her timing in the kitchen may be pure perfection, but if I don’t get this post going, it’s sure to be over-cooked).
Jen shows of her tomatoes

I may not know a lot, but I have learned two things while living in Italy:

First, every home has two types of olive oil.  They all have the generic store bought one (that’s still delicious) for cooking and salads as well as the “special” olive oil that is pressed by someone’s nonno in some small town in the mountains somewhere…

Second, (along the same vein) every home has homemade passata (tomato purée) that is either fatto in casa (made in house) or gifted by a friend of family member.  Why the homemade passata, you ask?  And what the heck is passata to begin with?!  Well, let’s travel back several thousand years to a time when food was seasonal, fresh and delicious.  In the time of the ‘hunters-gatherers’ people would eat whatever they could get – whatever was walking around and growing nearby that time of year.  They quickly learned that proper storage of proteins (those delicious saber-toothed tigers) was an important part of surviving the winter.  Fast forward to the early 19th century and technological advances allowed people to store fresh vegetables alongside their meat and fish.  Since Italians love to cook with fresh, unaltered flavors – the benefit of having access to tomatoes year round was paramount.  Grazie, Louie Pasteur for your contribution to Italian cuisine.  So, the passata that we are talking about, is simply a puréed tomato that is jarred and stored in the cupboard for use throughout the winter.

Our freshly jarred passata

Many recipes call for a tomato purée  including soups, stews, sauces and dishes that require a tomato flavor (Jen’s easy and delicious marinara recipe).  Most of the tomato purée sold in the US is processed and has a different consistency than passata.  While that type of purée also has it’s purpose in Italian cooking, you can’t be without freshly jarred passata.  At the end of the “tomato season” (early fall) all the grocery stores and fruit stands recognize this fact, and sell crates of San Marzano tomatoes for (in this case, we bought Roma tomatoes).

Here’s how you do it:

Equipment

>Canning jars and lids (the ones that have the little “pop” and can be sealed)
>Several large pots
-One to boil the tomatoes
-One to puree the tomatoes
-One to boil the jars in order to seal them
>A passaverdura (vegetable mill)
>Funnel to pour the purée
>Kitchen dishtowels to separate the jars (in order to prevent breakage)

Ingredients

>The best tomatoes that you can find (Jen’s preference is San Marzano)
>Basilico fresco (fresh basil)
>Coarse salt (the kind you would use in pasta water)

*Note – the ratio of tomato to passata roughly 2 to 1 (so for 10lbs of passata, you’ll need 20lbs of tomatoes)

Get the freshest tomatoes you can find
It’s always a benefit if you have a willing helper
We have basil growing on our balcony

Steps

>Clean and sterilize your jars (run them through your dishwasher)
>Put on your husbands nasty old painting tee-shirt; you will get messy

Clean any bruised or damaged tomatoes

>Place the tomatoes in the pot, cover with water

Place your tomatoes in a pot and cover with water

>Add salt to the water (you’ll need 7 teaspoons of salt for 20 pounds of tomatoes)
>Cover pot and bring water to boil
>Once water boils, remove lid and let simmer for 15 minutes
>Remove tomatoes and place into the vegetable mill (which will rest over another large pot)

Place the tomatoes in the mill

>Grind tomatoes through the mill, which remove the skins and seeds

You can see the entire station set up here – it’s quite the process
This one was a pro managing her assembly line
The passata once it has been strained through the passaverdura (mill)

>Now you’re jarring begins – place 3 fresh basil leaf in the bottom of each jar and filter the passata through the funnel to the top of the jar

Pass the passata through the filter so that it all fits into the jars – leave about an inch at the top
If your husband is a dream and a catch wrapped up in a bundle of charm – maybe he’ll make you a snack :-)

>Place a towel in the bottom of your third pot and place jars inside, separating by additional dishtowels.  This will prevent breakage while working with a fragile medium
>Add enough water to cover the jars by roughly an inch (lukewarm water; cold water will cause the jars to break)

The simmering bottles, protected from one another by a dishtowel

>Simmer on a low boil for 45 minutes, removing once they are cool enough to touch
>Rest in a cool, dry place and leave them alone.  The jars will create a vacuum seal within the next 12 hours.  You can test the seal because the little “pop” in the center of the lid will “suck down”

You’ve done it!  You have passata

Congratulations!  You have just made genuine, Italian passata!  One last step is to have fun creating your own labels.  I made these for Jen at the same time I made our grappa labels.  Do you like them?

Have fun – add some custom-made labels
Come have some of our “Passata di Mamma” – we would love to make some sugo for you

Let us know if you try this and have the benefit of enjoying fresh tomato passata all winter long!

Cooking, Food and Drink, Friends, Humor, Sipping Espresso, Wine

Step Aside… It’s Time to Grill!

When our friends, Nathan and Danielle had come to visit this past spring – Danielle pointed at a unique outdoor-oven-with-a-chimney-thingy in a neighbors yard and asked what it was.  I replied with all the confidence in the world that it was an Italian-style BBQ, but in reality I wasn’t positive.  I had seen the smoke billowing through the chimney and I had seen many of these things in other neighbors yards – but I had never inquired about it.  I asked my “go-to guy for all things Italian”… Jen’s uncle, Franco.  He confirmed that it was in fact a BBQ and a fairly typical one in Italy.  So, my educated guess was right.  Whew!

Classic Italian style outdoor grill

I noticed shortly thereafter that the typical gas Weber grills we’re accustomed to using in the States are non-existent here.  In fact, it’s possible you may see a round charcoal grill – but more often than not, it’s one of these large, permanent fixtures that people use to grill.

Jen may rule the kitchen around here, but I’ve always loved to rock the grill!  As soon as I learned of this wonderful outdoor oven (it’s really more of a wood burning oven, than a simple grill) I knew that we absolutely needed one.  However, we live in a condo with other families and we needed everyone’s approval before one of these beauties could bask in our communal yard.  Franco became the champion of the project and pitched it at the very next board meeting.  The grill got a unanimous vote and so when Jen’s parents were here visiting, we went to acquire the grill.
Franco, Dominic and Gianfranco discuss the various merits of certain grills with the clerk

Once again, I learned that things that are usually simple in the States (i.e. buying a car or procuring cell phones) is not necessarily the case in Italy.  Buying a grill requires many visits to the store, many discussions, lots of construction and many more discussions.  I was a little taken aback when Franco picked up cement and outdoor paint, realizing this was going to be a much bigger project than I originally expected.

Collaborating on the best way to load the grill into the truck

After our second or third visit to the hardware store, Dominic purchased the grill and we loaded it onto a friend’s truck.  He helped us deliver it to the building and we carried the unbelievably heavy grill, piece by piece into the yard.  A week or so into the project and we were only marginally complete.  The grill lay disassembled, piles of cement and stone until we all returned from a quick jaunt to Scotland.  By the time I was finally able to roll up my sleeves and start slinging cinder blocks – Jen’s parents had boarded a plane bound for the States.  Sadly, Dominic never got to enjoy the BBQ that he helped acquire.  That certainly didn’t stop his brother, Franco from encouraging me to send him images of our first festa (party).  Brothers will be brothers!

Construction begins
Stefano helps mix the cement as Franco and I set the frame
Stage One complete!
Claudia scolds me in Italian for dunking Julia’s head
Julia thought this was the funniest thing
Julia wanted to help
We place the final piece
And we’re done!  Our new grill is complete
My beautiful baby

The first party we had was a blast.  Our neighbors below are from Naples – and boy, do they know how to party.  They had extended family show up and bring delectable treats with them.  I was pushed away from the grill as Aurelia and her husband, Stefano took over.  As I watched a jaw-dropping amount of meat depart the grill – I was glad I had been sent to the sidelines.  I know now that I was out of my depth.  We feasted on pork ribs, beef ribs, lamb, porchetta, speck and various types of salsiccia (sausage).  Our waistlines thanked us for the grilled vegetables – eggplant, zucchini, peppers and more.  We devoured homemade salumi and cheeses that kept appearing each time I turned around.  Of course, the cheeses were from all over Italy (“this is from Veneto… aged 24 months” or “my grandmother made this in Napoli… it stayed under ground for 36 months”).  Hours later, the desserts (insert image of the best homemade tiramisu’s I’ve ever had) and then the coffee appeared.  This was quickly followed by round after round of grappa (homemade, of course).  All this – and it was just a first of many parties!

Franco shows me how it’s done
This was the first image that I sent to Dominic – I still feel guilty, but Franco and I got a kick out of it
Our first festa went late into the night

Since then, we’ve had many more outdoor parties – including a pizza party, where all the Napolitane baked their own bread and made pizza from scratch.

Setting the table
Now the food has arrived
All different types of homemade pizza
Various types of homemade cheeses from Napoli
Stefano got a mini-keg of beer
Aurelia teasing us for taking so many photos
The food was delicious
Cousins and nieces and nephews.  Neighbors and friends – the best kind of pizza party
This seemed to be the easiest way to transport all the grappa

When my parents were here visiting, we decided it was another good time for a BBQ.

Everyone gathers around, doing various tasks
Julia plays a little calico (soccer)
Stefano gets a few lookey-loo’s while grilling (including my dad, who couldn’t understand a word being said)
Beef ribs get a nice sear while the charcoals glow beautifully
Jen’s cousins, Franco and Claudia and my parents
Aurelia telling me “smettere” (stop) with the photos.  Her sister Angelina shows me the meat
The pot kept getting magically refilled with grilled meat before it was ever emptied
Everyone digs in
Julia was certainly no exception
Another late party

Another time, we wanted to bring all the family together and so all of Jen’s cousins came for a festa.

The younger generation of cousins pose together

I’ve used the grill for a simple meal for the five of us (myself, Jen and Julia along with Franco and Claudia) and not to be outdone by any Italians – I got about three times more meat than necessary.

Would you eat an entire picante peperoncino – Franco shows us how it’s done

All told, we’ve had a wonderful grilling season and while I’m anxious for the fall and then winter – I’m already looking forward to the time when I can dust off the ol’ tongs and have another Italian-style BBQ!

Cooking, Food, Jen's Kitchen, Recipes, Sipping Espresso

Don’t Pack Up The Grill Just Yet

Before you put away your grills for the summer, you have to try these very simple but delicious verdure alla griglia (Grilled Vegetables).  The combination of a few very simple ingredients helps bring out the flavors of the vegetables, leaving even the pickiest of eaters wanting more.

Verdura alla griglia (grilled vegetables)

For this particular meal we chose to use melanzane (eggplant) and zucchine (zuccini).  You can use a number of different vegetables that will all come out terrific on the grill. 

DIRECTIONS

>Begin by slicing the vegetables in thin strips.  I don’t have a mandolin here but that would have made it much easier!

Slice thin, but not paper thin – roughly a 1/4 inch.  It has to withstand the heat of the grill
>Next, place vegetables on the hot grill.  The seasoning comes later.  This was foreign to both Greg and me because we had grown accustomed to brushing olive oil and seasoning on before we grilled the vegetables.  In this case, don’t apply anything – just put them on the grill naked.
Place on the grill without any prior treatment or coating
If you are lucky like me, you’ll have a good-looking crew working the grill!
For some reason, Greg always grills better with a beer
But this is his real secret weapon!

Greg was careful to brown each side to get that wonderful charred flavor without burning the vegetables.

Brown each side and be sure to cook all the way through – grill marks add a nice appearance

>The final step is adding the seasoning, a combination of olive oil, salt, minced garlic and a dash peperoncino (dried, spicy red peppers).  >Combine minced garlic and olive oil in a bowl.  Brush on the garlic-oil and add salt to taste.
>At the end, add a dash of peperoncino for a kick of flavor.  Remember to be careful when you add the heat. You can always add more but you can’t take it away.  I make a separate dish for Julia without the hot peppers.

Olive oil, garlic, salt and hot peppers
Olive oil mixture
Brush on to evenly disburse the oil

If the vegetables sit they will continue to develop flavors.  They don’t have to be served hot.  This is a great side because you can prepare it ahead of time before your guests even arrive.

I hope you will give these a try the next time you and your family decide to pull out the grill.  Word to the wise, if you’re using a charcoal grill (like we do) – be sure to give yourself plenty of time to heat the coals, grill and then cook the vegetables.  You’ll probably need a two hour total head-start before you plan on cooking your meat.

From Greg’s Grill

Greg here – just quickly chiming in.  Since I am a carnivore and would never eat just vegetables (I’d compare that to watching watching “Sleepless in Seattle” without immediately following it up by watching a football game – just to even the scales), I suggest pairing your tasty vegetables with any delicious grilled meat… without heavy sauces.  Chicken would work quite nicely, but without the BBQ sauce (in which case, you’re better off pairing it with a pickled slaw).  In that same vein, I’d suggest you try grilling ribs (pork or beef – we prefer pork) but with a slightly different twist.  Try grilling it the Italian way – you may be pleasantly surprised.
The process is simple – high heat, grill for a few minutes, searing on each side.  Remove from grill and serve.  But here’s the kicker.  No marinade.  No sauces.  No seasoning (not even salt).  Like the vegetables above, place the ribs on the grill as naked as Miley Cyrus when she twerks.  When they are fully cooked, remove from the grill and then liberally add salt.  The salt will bind and enhance the natural flavors of the meat, leaving your tongue free to enjoy the flavor as it was intended.  I learned long ago that Italians prefer fewer flavors and hardly ever mask food with heavy sauces.  We have lovingly grown accustomed to these types of ribs over the summer, but admittedly – I did just smuggle some Texas BBQ dry rub back from the US… just to do a taste test.  I’ll be sure to let you know which way reigns supreme.
Get good, meaty ribs from your butcher  (we prefer pork – beef has nice flavor, but less meat)
Grill and simply add salt (the rosemary was sprinkled for presentation and aromatics)

Food, Food and Drink, France, Friends, Restaurants, Sipping Espresso, Wine

And I Thought Italians Eat Big Meals!

Jen, Julia and I spent a few days exploring France – from the French Riviera (blog post HERE) to Côtes du Rhône (first blog post HERE).  I knew that the dining experience would be different than what we’ve grown accustomed to while living in Italy, but I think I underestimated just how different it would be.
I’ll point out a couple of the noticeable differences.  If you’ve been reading this blog, you’ll know that I have made many references to pranzo, or lunch.  While the literal definition is simply, lunch – it should be modified to be more along the lines of, large meal in which copious amounts of pasta are finished with meats and salads and where the act of gathering is as important as the meal.  Wine and grappa are a must.  Since lunch is usually the “big deal”, that means we partake in a very light dinner.  Whereas in France, dinner was the star meal of the day.  Although, many of our days in France we also had a big lunch, and so our stomachs questioned our brains when we sat down to a second coursed-out meal at dinner time. 
Furthermore, the food itself is different in two distinct ways.  It also happens to be similar in two ways.  The differences – the types of food and the preparation.  The food served in France is not the same as the food in Italy.  Cassoulet as opposed to pasta.  Duck and pigeon as opposed to veal and pork.  Foie gras as opposed to cured meats.  Further, the preparation is different.  Italians cook with fewer ingredients and prefer simple, fresh cooking – a style I would classify as rusitco.  The French have a more refined style of cooking whereupon layers of flavor are built with many different ingredients and multiple sauces are used to style and accompany the dish. The presentation itself is much more polished, even at the most simple of places.  The similarities – they both use the freshest of ingredients, usually sourced locally at markets and they are both delicious in their own unique way.
There are subtle differences in even the small things.  The bread and the cheese are different.  The wine is different.  The pastry is different.  However, one thing remained consistent as we crossed the border into France and then back again.  We still remained within the cradle of food’s most wholesome birthplace – and the food in France was wonderful.
It is for this reason that I decided to feature a blog post dedicated to some of the meals we enjoyed while we were in France.  I’ve done a few “food posts” about dining experiences in Italy – so now it’s time to widen the circle.  Please excuse some of the photos – iPhone’s were used at times.  I only feel comfortable brandishing my large Canon camera in certain situations.
In Beaulieu-Sur-Mer, we found La Pignatelle, a charming restaurant that presents dishes in the Provençale style.  We had lost the benefit of our cell phone’s internet (in a different country – roaming charges apply) and so we couldn’t “google” where to eat.  We did it the old fashioned way – walking around, reading menu’s and assessing by looks.  We lucked out, and had a wonderful meal.  Jen ordered only an entrée, while I opted for the 3-course tasting menu with the understanding that I would be sharing some of my dessert!  The owner, Christophe was a saint and patiently explained each dish’s ingredients and preparation.  My favorite was when he got to the dessert we ultimately selected and his description was (read this to yourself in a French accent), “oohh… that one is too hard.  Trust me – it is delicious, just order it”.
La Pignatelle – turned out that it has received 4.5 / 5 on Trip Advisor – worthy of the rating
Tartare de Saumon frais et pomme Granny-Smith (Fresh salmon tartare with Granny-Smith).
The pairing with the Granny-Smith was divine, even though I was skeptical
Cuisse de poularde au pot, riz basmati (chicken leg cooked in a pot with basmati rice)
I substituted the basmati rice for pommes de terre rôties (roasted potatoes)
Aïoli Provençal (cabillaud) et son court-bouillon de légumes frais
(Cod prepared Provencal-style with vegetables cooked in the fish broth)
Jen’s Aïoli – more mayonnaise than we’re accustomed to
Paris Brest – the dish he couldn’t describe, but well worth eating!
The next day, we met our friends Michel and Shirley at their home in Sablet.  They easily slipped into the role of Guide de tous Cuisine Française (Guide of all French Cuisine) by taking us to some wonderful restaurants.  On our first day in Côtes du Rhône, we enjoyed a casual outdoor lunch at Le Jardin.
Le Jardin (The Garden)
The garden in the back – simply a beautiful setting for lunch
Julia used the time waiting for lunch to create her best Chagall
Jen ordered a croque-monsieur with salade fraîche (fresh salad)
I had seared duck breast over a bed of pasta
Julia couldn’t kick the pasta habit so quickly so we indulged her – Michel helps her eat
Dessert for Julia – “brownie” with hot chocolate and ice cream
Fraises à la crème fouettée (strawberries with whipped cream)
Coffee-flavored ice cream with a warm chocolate drizzle
Julia was all kisses after lunch
That night, we meet their friends, Bruno and Sylvie Bordeaux, the owners of the local Cafe des Sports, just a moments walk from Michel and Shirley’s home.  I never use last names in my blog, but their surname is simply too fantastic and too perfect not to use – Bordeaux!  Michel and Shirley became fast friends with Bruno and Sylvie in recent years, and they graciously took us to Côteaux et Fourchettes (translated to Hills and Ranges) in a nearby town, Cairanne.  This was one of the more memorable meals, because of my entrée selection as well as the fact that it seemed to hit most of the formal French dining traditions in a modern setting and style.  You’ll see below that I ordered the pigeon… a first for me!  And boy, was it delicious.  While I waited 32 years to try pigeon, Julia has now eaten it before she turned 2 years old.  Not only did she love pigeon, but she also couldn’t get enough of Jen’s foie gras (we drew the line at the tartare… I think she should at least be 3 years old before consuming raw beef). I think she would have done just as well in France as she is in Italy.
Out front of Bruno and Sylvie’s restaurant and bar
Amuse-bouche (“mouth amuser” typical in French restaurants)
Jen started with the foie gras – the best either of us have ever had
I started with a steak tartare – which you could tell was an obviously high-grade filet
Wonderful bread accompanied the table
The wine Michel selected was wonderful, from Gigondas – a nearby village
Jen had a seared filet over a wild bed of rice
I had the 1/2 pigeon over sautéed red cabbage with red pepper and saffron clafoutis
Bruno and I each opted for the extra cheese course, which was simply amazing
Chocolate mousse in tuple with grillot sorbet
The next day was marked by a visit to Les Abeilles, one of Michel and Shirley’s local favorites (website).  The lunch was in the middle of a day spent wine tasting (blog post coming soon) and so our moods matched the delicious flavor of the food.
Les Abeilles
As delicious as these cheeses are, I would think sticking your nose in their would be equivalent to water board torture
Check out the cork holder – I’ve tried without success to imitate
I ordered the Huîtres fraîches ou gratine (escargot – snails)
Jen had Petits gris de Provence en ravioles au bouillon d’épinards
I had the Pièce d’agneau rôtie et légumes (piece of roast lamb and vegetables)
Jen enjoyed the Bœuf braisée aux oignons (braised beef with onions)
Shirley (who doesn’t eat meat) ordered poisson blanc poché (poached white fish)
The légumes (vegetables)
Our kind waiter dolled out our cheese selections
My three cheese choices – some of the most amazing cheeses I’ve ever had
Our final day was spent visiting the markets of Carpentras, and our lunch was spent on the balcony of Chez Serge.  The refreshing selection of soup and fish marked the perfect meal to fit our moods.
Chez Serge
Loved the daily menu board posted out front
The roof terrace
Getting ready for our meal – I loved the classic cafe menu board used to display the daily menu table side
Shirley doing her best Julia impression.  Wait, is it the other way around?!
Michel and I started with a fantastic gaspacho de tomate with shaved parmesan and home made crouttons
Jen started with a croustillant de chèvre (crispy purse of goat cheese)
Michel and I repeated again – escalope de saumon sauce epinard (steak of salmon with spinach sauce)
Entremet ananas (a pineapple dessert)
Fromage blanc ā la fraise (white cheese with strawberries) – quiet delicious
I hope you enjoyed this brief tour of part of our French dining experience.  We hope to repeat again sometime in the future.  Of course, not until we loose all the calories we consumed the first time around… I’m thinking that will be sometime in 2014.
Food and Drink, Humor, Sipping Espresso, Travel - Italy, UNESCO, Veneto, Venice

Someone Turn The Hose Off… These Streets Are Flooded!

One of the true gems of the world…. Venezia (Venice).  The name alone evokes powerful feelings for many people.  Romantic gondola rides, historical architectural treasures, beautiful creations blown from Murano glass, unique hand-crafted masks and always… always a city constructed with streets of water.  Amazingly, the entire city is listed as a World Heritage Site in order to preserve it’s unique beauty.  According to my Wiki research, Luigi Barzini described it in the New York Times as “undoubtedly the most beautiful city built by man”.  I’d have to agree with Luigi!

Panoramic view from the roof of our hotel
Venice from the water
The Grand Canal
More of the Grand Canal
Happy to be here

Our good friends Nathan and Danielle joined us recently for a whirlwind visit filled with food, wine and lots of fun (read about it HERE).  We punctuated their trip with a stopover in this romantic city.  I was intrigued by the history of such a unique place and just did a little research.  Venice consists of 117 islands, formed by 177 canals and connected by 409 bridges.  I kept waiting for that “ah-ha” moment when I discovered the name of the genius city planner that decided to create a magical city on the water.  But unlike Bugsy Siegel’s Las Vegas or Sheikh Maktoum bin Rashid’s reinvention of Dubai – there was no one person that can be credited with the conceptualization of Venice.  The truth is that refugees fleeing from invasion of the Lombards sought shelter in the marshland that is now Venice.  And how do any cities really get built?  A collection of people working together to establish trade and industry, creating habitation and then services to support the population.  And so the city grew around the marsh and homes and churches and municipal buildings were constructed.  This begs another question.  How can you build a city on water?

The city built on water
Piers and bridges everywhere
Loved this view

There is a tree that grows in Slovenia and Croatia called an alder tree that is noted for it’s water resistance.  Thousands of these trees were imported (and subsequently credited as a contributing factor for the barren land of the Kras region).  The tree trunks were fashioned into piles that were submerged in the water, penetrating the sand and mud until settling in the much denser layer of compressed clay.  Foundations were laid on the piles and buildings of stone and brick were constructed on these footers.

Peekaboo!
Cheese!

So now that you know the history, you can join us on our journey.  We arrived early in the day via train (the easiest way into the city) and checked into our hotel.  Our hotel, Molino Stucky is on the island of Giudecca, set in a beautifully renovated flower mill.  After a quick lunch on the roof, we hoped on our hotel’s private ferry to the main island.  We toured through the streets and canals, passed over bridges and stopped in shops.  The girls bought scarves, glass and other souvenirs while Nathan and I took in all the scenery.  We visited the infamous Piazza San Marco and fought for space among the crowds of tourists.  We stopped for an afternoon cocktail on the water and eventually made our way back to the hotel to change for dinner.

Our hotel from the water
Hotel from the opposite side
Nathan and Danielle on one the pedestrian bridges
Looking good
Having fun touring
Piazza San Marco
The lion is symbolic of the Veneto region
Incredible architecture – the Libreria (library)
The Campanile – Bell Tower
My three favorite people in the crowd
Procuratie Nuove built by Vincenzo Scamozzi c.1580
Those aren’t aprons – we just lifted our clothes
The girls enjoying their prosecco
Looks like a romantic moment – really it’s just Nathan and I clinking our beers

After freshening up, we met in the lobby and discovered that we were in for a real treat.  Nathan and Danielle had reserved a private boat to tour us through Venice – a wonderful journey elevated by the setting sun .  We stopped for some wine and cheese and sat back to enjoy the ride.

Now look a this couple!
Some similar boats to the one we had
Traveling in style
View of Piazza San Marco from the boat
Along the tour
Stopping for a photo on the boat
Nate and D
Magical at night
The gondoliers were still out as the sun was setting
Danielle on the water
From the rear of the boat
All of us on board
Similar to our boat

Eventually our driver dropped us at one of his local favorites for seafood.  We settled into a table directly on the canal and enjoyed ordering a variety of food to taste and share.  At one point, I felt something wet kissing my feet and realized the water in the grand canal had risen high enough to splash the patrons (me) sitting on the edge.

Our restaurant
What a wonderful setting
Starter – mixed seafood
Mussels and clams
Nathan and I shared grigliata mista di pesce (mixed grilled seafood)
Jen got pasta with a variety of seafood
Pasta Aglio e Olio
The water started rising above the pier
Our grappa and limoncello after dinner
When dinner was over, we wound our way through the city at night to discover an entirely different Venice than the one we had seen all day.  Long after the sun sets, the landscape of the city changes significantly.  Without droves of tourists jockeying for the position to snap a photo (myself included) you are able to re-discover an entirely new place.  Piazza San Marco becomes a magical amphitheater where dueling bands play wonderful music and the crowd shifts back and forth to capture the best view possible.  We outsmarted the crowd and took up seats directly in front after ordering a nightcap.  It was a great way to end the day before hopping on a boat back to our hotel.

In front of the Basilica
One of the “dueling bands”
Our trip to Venice had come to an end as had Nathan and Danielle’s visit with us.  We spent one final day with them in Milano (Milan) and bid them buon viaggio (a good trip) back home.  We were so thankful we got to do so many wonderful things with friends so special to us.  After dropping them off, we rushed home and immediately started prepping for my sister’s visit… she would be arrived just a couple days later.  Stay tuned for upcoming posts about their visit – more action packed fun.
Bellagio, Como, Family Stories, Food and Drink, Happy Hour, Humor, Photography, Piedmont, Restaurants, Sipping Espresso, Travel - Italy, Wine

Tornado Touches Down in Italy

On May 4, 2013 a tornado touched down in the Emilia-Romagna region of Italy.  A path of chaos was carved throughout the area best known for a city that inspired a processed meat in the US nowhere near an authentic representation of it’s namesake – Bologna.

One day prior, a different type of tornado touched down in the Lombardia region just north of Emilia-Romagna.  Our friends, Nathan and Danielle landed in Milan and a whirlwind of food, fun, wine was about to begin – our own path of chaos would be carved throughout northern Italy.

Our very good friends, Nathan and Danielle

I picked them up at the airport while Jen stayed home to prepare a proper welcome – an Italian pranzo (lunch) done right.  We greeted them with an aperitivo (an alcoholic beverage used to stimulate the appetite) and then began stuffing them with salami, prosciutto, lardo (cured meat – basically just pork fat thinly sliced), cheese and olives.  Then it was on to the pasta course, with a simple red sauce before our secondo, veal Milanese.  Next of course were the salads and then dessert – fresh fruit and pastries we bought that morning.  Plenty of wine flowed throughout the meal and we finished with grappa.  The only problem… our large lunch had an effect opposite of our intention to keep them awake and perky in order to stave off jet-lag.  They were both crying out for a nap, but we were merciless with our plans.  We whisked them to downtown Como, where we walked off lunch and eventually made our way to a bar for happy hour outdoors under the sun.

Our next day (and pretty much every day following) was even more action packed than the first.  We woke up early and headed to Como to catch the “fast-ferry” to Bellagio.  The hydro-foil was going to bring us half-way up Lake Como to one of our favorite towns.  Bellagio is often referred to as the Pearl of Lake Como, a very fitting nickname.  The beauty of the town inspired the grand casino and resort in Las Vegas that shares the same name.  We arrived at the pier a few minutes too late and watched as the faster hydro-foil departed without us.  We booked tickets for the next ferry, the slower boat that would take two hours to reach our destination.  This turned out to be a blessing in disguise, as we positioned ourselves in the open bow of the boat (we later learned the faster boat was entirely enclosed) and spent a full two hours marveling at the beauty of the lake.  It also helped pass the time that we drank individual portions of boxed wine (imagine a juice box with wine as opposed to juice… “don’t take mommy’s juice-boxes, little Johnny”).

Nate and Danielle on the boat
Danielle gave Julia her first piece of gum (which she swallowed in seconds)
The whole crew
Some towns we saw along the lake – love the light coming through the clouds
Isola Comacina (an island in Lake Como)
Villa Carlotta in Tremezzo
The town of Tremezzo
Julia having fun with Danielle onboard
We’re HERE!

We arrived at Bellagio cheerful and ready to explore.  But the internal Italian clock had already set in with our guests and it was just past noon – nearly time for lunch (without exception).  We headed to Aperitivio et Al, where we had already made reservations.  We ordered antipasto and then moved on to our main dishes.  We ordered an extra dish for the table to share, a local specialty called pizzoccheri.  Jen and I have enjoyed this unique local pasta many times over the years and they prepared the dish quite well here.

Bellagio from the opposite side of the lake
A baby in a stroller is no match for two strong guys!
Antipasto
Selection of cheeses
Danielle served our grappa
One of my favorite streets in Bellagio – right where ate
The girls having fun
“SAY WHAAAT?!” 
The flowers in Bellagio are stunning – even Julia was taken aback

After lunch we set out to explore a bit before heading to Villa Serbelloni – a beautiful resort that sits directly on the lake.  We commandeered a perfect spot in the corner of their terrace and ordered a round of the popular Italian afternoon drink, Aperol Sprtiz.  As we finished our drinks, Nathan and I mulled over our next order of business when Danielle came back in true “Sweet D” fashion – two Cuban cigars in hand and two waiters in tow, carrying a bottle of champagne (for the girls) and two beers (for the guys).  I guess we weren’t going anywhere anytime soon, which was just fine with us.  Eventually we departed in time to catch the ferry (this time we made it to the fast boat) and headed back home for a late dinner.

Villa Serbelloni
A view from one of the hotel’s terraces
Nathan became giddy at the view
This is what he was looking at
Julia soaking it all up
The gang’s all here
Having fun with Daddy
The girls with their sprtiz’s
The aftermath of our afternoon
Another view from the hotel

Sunday (day three) was a continuation of the first two.  I had prearranged a wine tasting in the Piemonte region – an area in the northwest of the country that produces some of the world’s best wines.  Several weeks back, my father-in-law sent me an email about a three day event that was divided between six venues (mostly private villas and castles), spread among four villages and serving hundreds of the best Barolo’s, Barbaresco’s and Diano d’Alba’s (to name a few).  The only problem – it was reserved for professionals in the wine industry.  I was dismayed to learn that I may be prevented from attending a seemingly perfect day of free wine tasting.  I viewed the registration form anyways and decided that it wouldn’t hurt to let them know I was a wine importer and therefore worthy of a badge (along with my three “co-workers”).  It isn’t that far-fetched of a tale, as I would love to get into the trade and figured I could do some networking in between sips.  The ruse worked and we had a day planned to experience some of the best wine in Italy.

Grandi Langhe DOCG Wine Event

The three hour drive to the Langhe province flew by and we were welcomed with warm weather and bright blue skies.  Our anticipation built as we passed rolling hills and fields of vines dotting the landscape in perfect lines like ants on their way to a picnic.  We arrived in the town of Monforte d’ Alba and teetered our way down the small cobblestone street toward the location of our first tasting, Palazzo Martinengo.  The venue was wonderful and I was amazed to see how many local producers were in attendance, eager to showcase their wine and talk about their grapes’ unique prowess.  I had a blast chatting in a combination of English and Italian, evaluating how the local terroir affects the flavor of each wine.  It was no small coincidence that I chose this particular day of the three to attend the tasting – the first venue was featuring only Barolo’s (the most sought-after of all the wines in the region).  We enjoyed a lunch on the terrace – steak tartare, pasta (of course) and some other goodies before moving onto the next venue.

Monforte d’ Alba
Inside the event
Lunch was served on the terrace
Badges and glasses ready
Danielle goes in for a taste
These guys must be big time wine importers – I mean, look at those pink shirts!
Stepping out for a bit
What a day!

As we piled into the shuttle we noticed some dark clouds moving in.  By the time we arrived at Tenuta Abbene, a heavy rain had broken through the clouds.  I was particularly bummed, because this venue was stunning – a private villa set back behind a long driveway.  Situated behind many hectares of grape fields and atop a hill that produced a view of the entire valley.  The event had planned this portion of the tasting to be outside – a plan that was wasted because everyone was crowded inside a small space to avoid the blistering cold rain.  Eventually we decided the rain wasn’t letting up and opted to drive home, but not after stopping at one of our favorite restaurants, Antique Sapore for Como’s best pizza.

The villa – shot from the safety of cover
More of the outdoor space we weren’t able to enjoy
Hiding inside
Danielle fashioned a couture raincoat out of a garbage bag

Monday, we needed a break before our next big trip (we were leaving for Venice the next morning) and so we enjoyed a slow morning before headed to our absolute favorite dining establishment… Franco and Claudia’s home, just upstairs.  She prepared a wonderful lunch which we all thoroughly enjoyed (I even caught her in a picture… a rare feat indeed).

Everyone for lunch – Franco… SMILE like you like us!
Preparing the food in the kitchen

Afterward we took a nice long drive, winding our way up the lake past some more of our favorite towns and ended up in Menaggio.

Walking around Menaggio
Walking along the lake
I was helping Julia attract the ducks so she could “pet them”
Family photo
River that leads to the lake
Soaking up the scenery
Can you believe that we just happened to be sitting like this?!

Just like Nathan and Danielle’s visit, we have a lot packed into this post and so I will conclude this first part and resume again next with our exciting trip to Venice.  Ciao for now…

Cooking, Food, Humor, Jen's Kitchen, Sipping Espresso

Bagels and Lox – Italian Style

I’ve got a lot I should be blogging about.  Now that the spring flowers have arrived, I’ve decided Lake Como is one of the most beautiful places on earth.  I’d like to feature the lake – specifically, downtown Como for you.  I also need to do a piece on Alzate Brianza (the town in Como in which we reside).  I would love to share with you images of our condo that we’re borrowing from Jen’s parents.  If that’s not enough… we have had some wonderful experiences recently in Bergamo, Tuscany, Piemonte, Bellagio, Venice and more.  And of course, we’ve had some incredible meals I’d like to showcase.

A scene in Tuscany – what I should be writing about

In order to share these stories I will need to take hundreds of new photos and sift through the thousands I have already taken.  Then, I’ll need to re-create the stories and sprinkle in a bit of research about the towns.

Now, don’t get me wrong – I love doing this.  And I love even more that we have both devoted and casual readers of our blog.  A highlight of my day is getting a comment from a new reader somewhere in the world.  But, I am feeling a bit overwhelmed by the sheer work of it all.  I recognize that feeling stressed over such an unimportant task is comical.  Or perhaps it just makes me look like an asino (you can translate that one on your own).  But what can I say… I just want to do the best job I can.

So what do you do when you’re overwhelmed?  Procrastinate, of course!  And what can make you happy when you’re overwhelmed?  Comfort food, of course!  So this blog is a procrastination piece about comfort food!!

I wouldn’t necessary call bagels and lox your typical “comfort-food”, but it is a breakfast dish both Jen and I love.  We’ve shared many wonderful brunches with this as the main course and loved every crunchy/creamy/slimy and flavorful bite.  Plus, it reminds of us of home.

I was surprised to see how popular smoked salmon (“lox”) is in Italy.  It is widely sold in the supermarket, with a vast number of brands jockeying for premium shelf space.  Since breakfast in Italy is very light (usually just a few biscotti), once in a while we will get salmon to mix things up.  However, a bagel in Italy is as non-existent as a Jew in Mississippi.  So instead, we use toast points and occasionally add capers.

One day, we accidentally stumbled on all the typical ingredients (minus the bagels) and decided to go for it!  So, here is our version of a “bagels and lox brunch, Italian style”.

All the ingredients, minus our “everything” bagels
The final product was quite delicious!

Now that I’m done procrastinating… I just feel more guilty than ever!  Guess I should really get to work… but maybe I’ll just check out some new posts on 9gag first…

Cooking, Food, Jen's Kitchen, Recipes, Sipping Espresso

A Fresh Dish for Spring

If you have never tried Risotto, I think it is a must.  It’s delicious and a great way for us to change up lunch from our typical pasta dishes.  Since this has been our first week of spring weather I wanted to make a spring risotto with beautiful seasonal asparagus.

Risotto with fresh asparagus

My mom used to make this for us a lot as a kid growing up in the spring and summer, so I was excited to make this for Greg and Julia.  I was pretty happy with how this dish turned out.  I served with a fresh salad of fennel and our meal was complete.  Even Julia ate a huge plate.  This dish is a great way to get kids to eat their vegetables. I hope to post some other risotto recipes soon (like pasta, there are many different ways to introduce new flavors).  I hope your enjoy this as much as we did. 

INGREDIENTS (serves 4)

>Olive oil
>One (1) small onion (diced)
>Four (4) cups of chicken stock
>Nine (9) palms of arborio rice (two palms of rice per person, with one extra for good measure).  This is roughly two (2) cups of rice
>Two (2) cups of asparagus, pre-cooked (best to blanch to preserve color and texture).  Cut into 1″ pieces
>Between half (½) and a full cup of white wine (depending on taste/quality of wine)
>Roughly one half (½) a cup of grated parmesan cheese and then additional cheese for the table and garnish
>Third (1/3) stick of butter
>Salt to taste
Fresh ingredients

>Heat chicken stock in a pot.
>On a separate burner, heat olive oil in a large flat pan with high sides.
>Add onion until it is softened and translucent.  While the onion is cooking, add a dash of salt. This could take a little over 5 minutes.  Don’t allow the onions to brown.

Cook onions

>Add the rice and mix together. Stir until the rice is toasted (but not brown) about three – four (3-4) minutes.

Add the rice and continue to stir

>Add wine and continue to cook the rice.
>After a minute, add a ladle or two of the stock, stirring the rice continuously until the liquid is absorbed.
>Continue stirring and ladling the broth for approximately fifteen (15) minutes.  Be sure to taste as you go and add salt accordingly.  The rice should be al dente and creamy.

Ladle in the stock

>Before you add your last ladle or two of stock, add the asparagus and stir into the rice.
>Remove from heat and stir in butter and Parmesan cheese.  Cover and allow pan to sit for five (5) minutes.

Add the asparagus…
…and cover

>Serve right away and top with fresh grated Parmesan cheese.

Enjoy!

PLEASE NOTE – Cooking risotto requires constant attention.  Make sure the table is set and everything else you are serving is ready before you begin the rice.  I have made that mistake before!