Since the moment my wife Jennifer laid eyes on her baby sister, Jessica, they formed a strong bond that has only developed over time. Sure, Jennifer usually acts more like her mother than her sister and yes, there have been a few lively battles resulting in a couple “boo-boos”, but they are as close as any two sisters I have ever known.
Jen and her younger sister, Jessica overtop Lake Como
That’s why we were thrilled when we learned of a last-minute vacation Jessica planned with her boyfriend, Matt. We were doubly excited because not only were we going to spend time with Jessica, but we were finally going to be able to meet Matt. Living in Italy comes with its obvious benefits, but we do miss out on a lot at home and so we are thrilled any time “home” comes to us.
I picked Matt and Jessica up at the airport and after completing a brief pit stop at home, whisked them to downtown Como. Como is a great first stop for anyone trying to avoid succumbing to jet lag. We walked around the city and rode the finiculare up to one of our favorite spots – Brunate. There, we soaked up the views of the lake and ate a scrumptious lunch at one of our favorite little spots, Bella Vista (Beautiful View).
A picture of Lake Como as we walked aroundFamily photo in front of the lakeMatt and Jess take a picture in front of Lake ComoJulia guides Matt and Jess onto the finiculare headed down from Brunate
We decided that we wanted the next day to be all about authenticity (OK, perhaps I steered the tour in that direction) and so we ascended through the hills of Menaggio, one of our favorite lake towns. I had read about a little rifugio, which literally translated means, refuge or shelter. If you’re talking about a visit to a rifugio for lunch, you’re referring to a place that is far up in the hills, buried deep beneath the trees and usually only known to locals. You need to be prepared to eat in a converted home or even a glorified shack and you certainly shouldn’t expect quality roads (sometimes you have to abandon your car and hoof it). But if you’re willing to brave all that, you will find that they are… fabulous! Apart from really getting a feel of “authentic Italy”, the views and food are almost always worth the journey. La Baita was one of our favorite restaurant experiences in a long time (read my full review with extra photos on TripAdvisor, entitled “Authentic and Delicious”). We enjoyed bresaola (cured meat), homemade pasta served family style and plenty of mouth water roasts. We were so full that we felt like simply rolling back down the hill into town. Of course, by the time we descended into the town of Menaggio, we had all found enough space in our bellies for some gelato.
La Baita – a wonderful rifugio that we will definitely be visiting againWe started with bresaola as our antipastaWe had three different pastas, served family style. We each had our own favoriteThe view from the terrace out backMatt and Jessica take a picture on the terraceMatt shows Julia how to take a great pictureWe strolled around Menaggio, which is one of our favorite lake townsWhat do you call a photo-bomb by a toddler?Julia and I walk the small beachHanging out with the guysPosing with mom by the lake
The following day was Matt’s birthday and so the lovebirds took a boat to Bellagio and spent the entire day exploring the “jewel of Lake Como” on their own. They even went out to a romantic dinner in Lake Como, a place known for their Bistecca alla Fiorentina (nothing says romance like splitting two(+) pounds of perfectly cooked beef). Something about an overtired toddler crashing their dinner didn’t seem appealing to anyone, so we hung back and let them go at it alone. Matt realized that while they were in Bellagio, he had left his camera; so he and I picked up the following morning. I’m sure he’s one of a few people who can boast back to back visits to Bellagio with the second visit lasting less than five minutes. Since the morning was spent traveling to Bellagio and back (it’s an hour each way by car on slow and winding roads) we all decided that a leisurely afternoon BBQ was just what the doctor ordered! We closed the day with drinks in Como, always a surefire hit.
Matt and Jessica before their “date night”Matt and I pulled over for a “selfie” on the way to get his camera. Bellagio is the peninsula behind usMatt and I grilled when we got homeWe cooked some chicken (with American dry rub I smuggled back from my last trip home)Costine (ribs)I asked Julia to watch over the meat for us while we grabbed a drinkGrilled vegetablesInsalata di pomodoro (tomato salad)The table is set and ready for a partyThe gals…
The guys
Drinks in Como after our BBQ
We still had plenty more to do with Matt and Jessica, including a trip to the antique market of Milan and a tour of Bergamo – but each of those are deserving of their own post. Sadly, our time with them felt short, as they left us to visit Rome and Venice on their own; but we were thrilled that we got the chance to meet Matt and glad to see Jessica back in her favorite home away from home… Italia!
I had the pleasure of first sampling this rich and tasty dessert at a friend’s house over the holidays. After my first bite I was hooked and inquired after the preparation of the dish. Luckily, everyone here is happy to share their secrets and pass on tips. First, let me explain, chocolate salami is not salami at all (even though Greg wolfs this dessert down, he has a hard time getting past the name). This simple, no bake dessert only resembles salami. This Italian favorite was originally served around the holidays but now is acceptable any time of year. I think it’s the perfect dessert to serve while entertaining. The best part is that you can prepare it ahead of time and store it in the freezer.
Voilà! A salame di cioccolato (chocolate salami)
INGREDIENTS (serves 8 people)
>One (1) cup of biscotti or dry cookie broken into pieces >Eight (8) ounces of dark chocolate. I used 70% >One (1) stick of high quality butter, softened >Two (2) eggs, very fresh >Half (½) cup of sugar >Quarter (¼) cup, freshly brewed espresso >Confectioners’ sugar, as needed >Chopped nuts optional (I didn’t use them but I think I will try next time)
***RAW EGG WARNING. I have been told you can make this dish without using eggs but I haven’t tried this myself.
Your ingredients
DIRECTIONS
Begin by breaking up the biscotti and setting them aside. Melt the chocolate using a double boiler and stir until there are no lumps.
Break the bits of biscottiDon’t crumble them too much – they’ll need to represent the inside of a salamiTry not to lose any too many of your cookie crumbles in the processUse a double boiler to melt the chocolateThe double boil method is easy and brings the chocolate to a perfect consistency
Stir butter in a large bowl. Continue stirring and add sugar and eggs. Once combined stir in the chocolate and add the espresso. Stir the cookies into the chocolate mixture until well combined.
Combine the wet and dry ingredientsMix thoroughlyIt’s always nice to have a helping handAdd your chocolate and mix wellPour in the espressoSlowly combine your biscotti cookiesStir together and watch little “biscotti thieves”
Place the mixture on a large sheet of wax paper and begin to shape the mixture into a salami by rolling it on your work surface. Tightly secure the ends and place the “salami” in the refrigerator for 8 hours. I continued to roll the salami in the refrigerator so that it wouldn’t become flat on one side.
Roll the mixture in wax paper and form the shapeTie off the ends and set in the refrigerator to form
Remove salami from the refrigerator and unwrap. Cover the salami with confectioners’ sugar using brush. Put the salami on a wooden board when ready to serve.
Chocolate Salami – Enjoy!
This dish should keep in your refrigerator for a maximum or two-three days. It should last in your freezer for about one month. Of course, if you have someone like Greg in your home, there is no way it will last anywhere near that long! Enjoy!
Man, do I love the bad puns in my titles or what? Probably about as much as I love posing rhetorical questions to my readers…
Roughly twelve days ago, I was as proud of myself as Arvind Mahankali when he successfully spelled knaidel to beat Pranav Sivakumar and secure the championship title during the 86th Scripps National Spelling Bee (apparently, this particular Indian-American knows a thing or two about Jewish comfort food). Why was I so pleased with myself, you ask? Well, I thought that I had finally caught up with our stories on the blog. And then a whirlwind of activity commenced in a flash as Jen’s sister arrived for a visit with her boyfriend. We had such a nice time traveling and eating with them (really, is there anything else you would want to do in Italy?) that now I have a ton more to write about. Additionally, we left them to their own devices while we embarked on a rewarding road-trip, which I cannot wait to tell you about. So, now once again – I am behind the times again faster than you can spell prosciutto.
An accurate portrayal of me as I struggle to keep up with the blog
When I was looking ahead toward the next 5-8 posts, I realized that I would be remiss not to step back and mention our visits to Pisa and then Massa in northern Tuscany. When I last wrote, I detailed our trip to Lucca (HERE). During the drive home we detoured to marvel at the Torre pendente di Pisa (Leaning Tower of Pisa) before getting back on the road. We hadn’t traveled too much further when our perfectly timed Italian stomachs told us it was time for lunch (at first I thought our three stomachs growling in unison was a tractor-trailer honking furiously at me). I was more in the mood for a leisurely lunch than a quick stop at an AutoGrill (picture a rest-stop along the NJ Turnpike with better food and espresso). I turned to my trusty “TripAdvisor” cell phone app and searched for a restaurant near us. I discovered Il Fatty (yeah… you guessed the translation; The Fatty) in the city we were approaching. With a name like, “the fatty” – how could you go wrong?! I took the exit toward Massa and headed into the center of town.
Torre pendente di Pisa – Leaning Tower of PisaJulia strikes a poseWork on the tower began in 1173 and took 199 years to completeJulia photographs me in front of the towerBattistero di San Giovanni (Pisa Baptistry) and Primatial (Pisa Cathedral)
You may not have heard of Massa (we hadn’t), but if you’re a fan of interior design, than you’ve definitely heard of the province in which Massa is located, Carrara. Carrara marble is the fashionable stone of choice for kitchens counters the world over. The stone has been mined in this area for centuries (Carrara marble has been used since Ancient Rome). Upon exiting the highway, my mind was set only on lunch with no expectation of discovering any real beauty; the area is heavily industrialized. Like a naval shipyard or factory park, the landscape is blanketed with large machinery, billowing factories and tractor trailers transporting thousands of pounds worth of the white stone.
Massa and Carrara are sister cities in the Province of Carrara
However, we were surprised when we got away from the mining equipment and approached the center of town. The city itself was clean and beautiful. It became obvious that Massa has prospered as a result of the local product. The town is well designed and perfectly maintained. Even the street curbs and park benches are made of Carrara marble! After a delicious lunch at Il Fatty we wanted to discover what the city had to offer. There seemed to be a surprise around every turn. We found orange trees and large piazze (town squares), ancient buildings and ample shopping. We were pleasantly surprised to see how much is available to tourists, although the place is happily devoid of the map-reading, fanny-pack wearing, crowd-shoving sightseers (by the way, I’m not casting stones; that is usually us in a nutshell, less the fanny-pack).
Il Fatty’s “signature” sandwich – Panino LamprodottoPanino salsiccia e rapiniHomemade torta di riso, proudly made by the owner’s son, AlessandroThe interior piazzaSome of the colorful buildings of MassaGreat statue in the center of the main piazzaGovernment building in the main piazzaThere were orange trees everywhere
There is even a wonderful 15th century castle perched high above the town. We took the narrow and windy drive up the hill, only to discover the castle was closed for repair. Oh well, I was able to get a couple beautiful panoramic’s of the city and neighboring sea.
Massa on the road to Malaspina CastleView of Massa from aboveThe position of the city is well situated between the coast and the mountains
If I can borrow a page from the Michelin Star guide-book, I would rank Massa with a full star (out of three). One star denotes a very nice place worthy of a visit (but not a place to go far out of your way to see). If you do visit, tell Alessandro at Il Fatty that we said hello. However, be weary of his suggestion to try the local favorite, Panino Lamprodotto. It’s basically just tripe (cows stomach) on a bun – not my favorite Italian food. Of course, I would be lying if I told you I left a single bite behind.
Who doesn’t love a good festival? The combination of food, games and fun in an outdoor setting is always guaranteed to be a success. I mean, what more could you ask for? But if the name of the festival is Primavera dei Vini (Wine in the Springtime) and the location is in the remote Italian countryside – then you’ve got all the ingredients you need and more!
Vineyards of Rovescala along our drive into townThe farmers have been producing Bonarda wine for over 800 years
If you check Wikipedia to learn about Rovescala, you will discover that this small commune (municipality) is located about 50km southeast of Milan. Aaaaand… basta (stop). That’s it. If you research the festival itself, you’re likely to uncover only two or three short blog posts about it, aaaaaand… basta! So this event is a relatively unknown festival in a small, remote Italian town – why on earth would anyone be interested in going?! Because it’s a relatively unknown festival in a small and remote Italian town, of course! In our experience, these are usually the best gatherings – genuine and unpretentious, just as it should be in Italy.
I was loving the group of Harley riders that rolled into townOf course, what Italian festival is complete with a collection of Vespa’s?!
Jen and Julia in Rovescala
Every Sunday in March, the residents of Rovescala pull together for the festival meant to celebrate the approaching spring with open air markets, parades, music and games. Of course, what Italian festival would be complete without food and wine as the central theme to the day? With the largest two spaces in town dedicated to either food or wine, you are guaranteed that something delicious will pass your palate. They also had plenty to do for the kids.
They had a face painter for the kids, free of charge – she wouldn’t even take a tipOf course, Julia wanted to be a tigerShe proved how scary she was with a growl and scratch with her clawJen and her baby tiger
I couldn’t uncover a specific reason for the festival, which is close to approaching its 30th year (many such events are held in the honor of a specific saint or battle or historical element). It is my suspicion that the collections of farmers producing a wonderful and relatively unknown wine worked with the local comune (municipal office) to promote their regional product and boost tourism. While the festival does not pull a large contingent of international visitors, each Sunday in March the town swells to capacity with other Italians living nearby.
The town fills up each Sunday in March
Like so many things Italian, the hills surrounding Rovescala are rooted in a tradition that stretches back over eight centuries. The grapes grown for the production of the local Bonarda wines are of a seldom seen variety; the Croatina grape, which is then typically blended with the Barbera grape to make the wine. You won’t discover a finer example of Bonarda wine (not to be confused with the Bonarda Piemontese vine) then you will here in the foothills of the Apennines mountains in our hometown region of Lombardia (Lombardy). This wine website describes the grape,
The mid- to late-ripening grape delivers wines with dark color, gushing fruit, low acidity and soft tannins, often resembling montepulciano or dolcetto in expression.
Before we could get to all the wine tasting, we wanted to fill our stomachs with some food. We discovered that the main pavilion had open table dining, where “neighbors” become friends. In fact, our neighbors were happy to share some of their frog legs with both me and Julia when I asked about them. To say the dining was “organized chaos” is an understatement. But the delicious food, fun neighbors, guitar player and cheap wine (I got a full glass for €1) more than made up for it! The authenticity of the experience was definitely one of these “this is why we moved to Italy” moments.
Inside the pavilion for food – good luck finding a table, we waited about 20 minutes for spaceWe were thrilled when we finally claimed our spotWe lucked out with some great neighbors who were a lot of funIt was great listening to this guy playing and singing at the next table
After lunch, we strolled past the outdoor vendors displaying their hand crafted goods – anything from homemade grappa to artisanal wooden bowls. We made our way to the main hall where the farmers were eager to showcase their wines. A modest €5 bought me an empty wine glass complete with a nifty case that allowed me to dangle the container from my neck (you know, in case I needed both hands to have a conversation like a true Italian – picture a lot of hand gestures). We befriended, Alessandro Dellafiore – the President of the Pro Loco Rovescala a local organization designed to promote local products. He explained that as long as I didn’t leave the building, I could re-fill my glass any number of times and try as many different wines as my little heart desired. “Jen, buckle up and get comfortable – we’re going to be here a while!“
Merchants sold all type of hand crafted goodsInside the wine hall Alessandro gave Julia a wine necklace so she could join in the funJulia carefully helps me select my favorite wine
After I had enough liquid courage, I decided that I needed to demonstrate my manliness. I can think of no better way to peacock than to climb a telephone pole in order to slap a leg of prosciutto! I was in luck, as that option was readily available to the brave few willing to try. I waited and watched a half a dozen guys and gals try and fail to reach the top. While I was in line, a kid roughly fifteen years old made it to the top. His effort was rewarded with a bottle of wine. I grinned in admiration of the culture that rewards their youth with a bottle of wine. When it was my turn, I strutted to the pole as if I was Michael Jordan saddling up to the free throw line. I knew it would be no problem to practically fly to the top. That is, until I made my first upward thrust and realized my dress shoes were a major detriment. I nearly slipped coming right out of the gate, but I recovered and found my grove. I made it to the top of the pole in record time and was the only person to receive a large cheer from the crowd and two bottles of wine for my speed (and a bit of showmanship). After I came down, I was pleased to have earned a big hug from Julia in addition to my liquid prize.
I get strapped in for my long climbIt may not have been graceful, but I was the fastest climber of the dayJulia cheers me on – just the encouragement I neededAt last! I made it to the top and slapped that prosciutto like I’ve never slapped a prosciutto before!Julia ran up and gave me a big hug – that was the best prizeOf course, a couple bottles of wine isn’t too shabby eitherJulia wanted to have a goShe did pretty well – she won a generous bag of candyHere we are showing off our prizesAfter the participants all volunteered, the pros took overThey made it look easy!
We wrapped the day with a little more walking and shopping (we went back to buy some wine as gifts and to add to our cellar). Julia stopped to take a seat and “chat” with some locals in front of their home – I suppose she wanted to practice the Italian art of dolce far niente (the sweetness of doing nothing). All in all – it was a fun day and well worth the time in the car.
Julia is an expert at “dolce far niente” (the sweetness of doing nothing)Our collection of “fair booty”
Sicilia (Sicily) was the birthplace of the original Godfather, Don Vito Corleone; its shoresharbored his son, Michael Corleone and recently the island hosted Don Greggorio and his small family. My only disappointment in visiting Sicily was that my wife, Jen wouldn’t let me wear a white suit and hat while walking around passing out fruit like I was Don Vito himself. Oh well, there’s always next time…
The sun rises over Catania. How can you be expected to walk around without a white suit?!
I was so excited to visit Sicily because I’ve wanted to see this unique part of the country for as long as I can remember. This region of Italy is so far south from where we live that I wasn’t sure if we would ever get the opportunity to explore the island while living here. Sicily boasts a plethora of interesting facts that I couldn’t begin to detail in a single post. However, perhaps the most interesting few points are that the island is the largest in the Mediterranean, archeological evidence dates human inhabitants are far back as 8,000 BC and the terrain has changed hands dozens of times (from Greek to Byzantine to Roman and all over again and again).
Coastline along SicilyÌsula Bedda is local dialect for Isola Bella, or Beautiful Island
While the capital city of Palermo is the largest and most populous on the island, Catania is another popular tourist destination and the port city that received us on our visit. The city also bore nostalgic significance – Catania was the birthplace and home of Jen’s bisnonna (great-grandmother), Rapisardi. Even though there is plenty to do in Catania, we decided to take the hour-long train ride up the coast to Taormina. We were not the first to make this journey – Taormina has been one of the most popular tourist destinations in Sicily since the early 19th century. However, we came at a particularly interesting time. The infamous Mount Etna had just erupted a couple of days before our arrival and evidence of the black soot was everywhere.
The black soot from the explosion of Mount Etna covered the entire areaThe beaches became black with sootJulia enjoyed walking on what became a black pathwayWe were all fascinated how far the soot traveled, literally blanketing the town
The rapid expansion of Taormina is believed to have begun around 345 BC. It originally started as part of the Greek empire before falling into the hands of the Romans. Today, the city remains high atop the ridges of the coastline, commanding a beautiful (and strategic) view of the sea. Before we could walk her ancient streets, we had to ascend the long and winding roads from the train station. We secured ourselves a cab and helped some other non-Italian speaking tourists get cabs of their own. Since there were more people than cabs, I offered to share our cab with a German couple. I arranged a pick-up time with the same cab driver at a discounted rate. Not only did we get to split the fare, but we got a discount by giving the same guy round-trip business. I’m always happy to find good travel deals!
Taormina has beautiful coastline and wonderful beachesThe city is nestled high atop the cliffsThe city is something truly wonderful to beholdWe enjoyed hiking aroundJulia took turns posing with her parentsWhat fun!Pretty gals and a pretty view“Momma… listen to me”Once again, Julia was a hit with the other tourists that wanted to hold her and take pictures
Upon arriving in Taormina, we spent some time walking around, soaking up the lovely street scenes. Eventually, we wound our way to the Teatro Antico di Taormina (Ancient Theatre of Taormina). The amphitheater is a fine example of Greek engineering that dates to the seventh century BC. What is most fascinating about this theatre (apart from its spectacular position overtop the Mediterranean) is that the use of brick in its composition hint at Roman construction (an era much later than the seventh century BC). But the design is that of ancient Greece. This architectural style in combination with other archeological elements has unfurled the prevailing theory that the Romans rebuilt the amphitheater overtop an existing Greek theatre. Today, the preservation of this ancient wonder is truly remarkable.
The view as an audience member in the amphitheaterThis ancient theatre dates all the way back to the seventh century BCThe design of the theatre is that of ancient GreeceThe views from the top of the theatre are remarkableJulia and I take a picture with the theatre and coastline behind usShe leans in for a hugI’m a lucky guy – Julia gives me a kissWe soak up the view together
After quite a bit of time exploring the amphitheater, we strolled through the city streets, marveling at the beauty behind each turn. However, we had more on our minds than just lollygagging. We were bound and determined to try arancini, which are essentially balls of fried rice. Of course, there is oh so much more to it than just that! This local Sicilian treat dates all the way back to the 10th century. The perfectly fried balls of heaven are often times stuffed with ragu, pancetta, cheese or other treats. We got a simple variation, just risotto fried lightly beneath breadcrumbs – we couldn’t be happier with our decision. I’ve included a link to a recipe HERE, although we haven’t tried to make them ourselves yet. We’ve since eaten arancini in other parts of Italy – but it’s never quite as good as it was that day in Sicily.
“Quick, dad – take my picture… photo-op!”Mandarini (mandarin oranges) were in seasonJulia found some pigeons that she became friends withJulia is no stranger to her winged friendsShe even made friends with a micino (little kitty)We loved the cityARANCINI! Amazing!!
We took our final walk through Taormina and back toward our departing ship. We had one last port to round out our time at sea – a day in the historic city of Naples.
W got one last look at the beautiful city streetsWe barely made it back to the ship before we set sail toward our final destination
On a particularly warm and sunny day this week, Greg and I and decided to ditch the pasta and opted instead to share a lighter lunch. We all love shrimp (especially Julia) so we decided to try our luck with Shrimp Scampi. I have never made this dish before so I did some research and looked at a few different ways it is prepared. After evaluating the ingredients I had lying around the house, I came up with a simple recipe for my first attempt at this classic dish. I have to say – we were all pleasantly surprised with how it turned out.
Buon Appetito!
I was pleased to see Greg fare la scarpetta, or “to do the little shoe”. This is a term the Italians have come up with that I adore. When you have a delicious sauce that you can’t stand to leave behind, you can use a piece of bread to mop it up. I would encourage you to be sure that you have plenty of good bread for you or your guests to do la scarpetta!
INGREDIENTS (serves two)
>Two (2) teaspoons Olive oil >Juice of half (½) a lemon >Zest of about one (1) lemon >Three quarter (¾) cup of white wine >Three (3) cloves of minced garlic >Two (2) tablespoons of unsalted butter >One-two (1-2) tablespoons of chopped flat leaf parsley >One (1) pound of shrimp >Salt
IngredientsBe sure to prep your ingredients – it will make cooking much easierWe kept the shells on the shrimp
As you can see I used shrimp that was still in the shells. You can also choose to use peeled shrimp. I thought we got good flavor from keeping the shells on though. Either way, make sure your shrimp is clean and dry before putting it in the pan.
Place the shrimp in the pan with a little olive oil
>Place olive oil and two (2) tablespoons of butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat.
>Add the shrimp to the pan and spread them out so they lay flat on the pan bottom.
>While the shrimp is cooking, flavor with salt.
>Cook for one-two (1-2) minutes without moving. Once that side is cooked, mix in the garlic and flip the shrimp.
>Cook for an additional one-two (1-2) minutes or until fully cooked. >Remove the cooked shrimp, set aside and keep warm.
Add the shrimp and spread evenly in the panTurn to evenly brown each shrimpAdd the garlicBe sure to turn as necessary so to not burn the shrimpLooking yummy alreadySet the shrimp aside
>In the same skillet add the wine and lemon juice, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan.
>Allow the liquid to come to a boil and slightly thicken and salt to taste. >Remove from heat and stir in the lemon zest and parsley. Return the shrimp to the pan and mix into the sauce. Serve while hot!
Making the sauce – I would recommend you make extra – it’s that good!Serve and enjoy!
Note: The next time I make this dish I will try to make additional sauce by increasing everything but the shrimp. The sauce was so good, we wanted more!
If you’ve been a loyal reader of this blog or have spent a little time playing around on the pages, you’ll see that I’ve started a “series” that highlights some of the differences between Italy and our native America. Some of the differences are strange to us, many of them make perfect sense and others are just plain silly. If you’d like to see where the series began, take a look back here:
Just like the previous editions, I will group these differences by category. Without further adieu, Parte Quattro (Part Four)…
♠♣♥♦ ♠♣♥♦ ♠♣♥♦
CARS
The automotive industry in Italy is one of the major contributors to the country’s GDP. The industry provides nearly a quarter million jobs and produces some of the world’s best cars. But it’s not just Ferrari’s and Lamborghini’s on the roads here. We have also learned a couple other things about the automobiles on the road.
Where are the trucks? A Texan might have a harder time adjusting here than we did. Finding a pickup truck is akin to finding the perfect blue-ribbon bull at the county fair (did I take the Texas thing too far?). There are virtually no trucks on the road and I can count the number of large pickups I’ve seen on one hand. If you do come across a pickup truck, there is a 90% chance that it is for work-purposes only. No major commentary here, just an observation.
This little guy is about all the truck you’re going to get around here
You’d better not buy the Big Gulp! At least not if you want to rest it in your car while you drive… most cars don’t have cup holders. This may seem strange to most Americans (certainly, there are times I miss my old car), but it’s not that crazy when you think about the culture here. Italians drink small espresso’s at the bar (not 20oz Starbucks coffees) and I’ve never seen anyone over 15 years-old drink a soda. McDonalds drive throughs are not a big thing and so there is really no major need for a cup holder. And, oh yeah – a Big Gulp was never really a viable option, they don’t have 7-11‘s either.
“No cup holders? Well, where am I supposed to put this?”No space for this adorable Coke (note the spelling of Julia)
Keep your eyes on the road. I remember a couple years ago in America, I was driving with extreme caution because I was passing by a cop. It turned out that it didn’t matter because he was not looking at me, but rather at the text message he was composing while cruising by at about 70mph. If the police don’t pay much regard to “no texting while driving”, how can citizens take it seriously? It’s completely different here – I mean, completely! They don’t even HAVE a “Don’t Text While Driving” campaign. You know why? EVERYONE KNOWS IT’S RIDICULOUS TO TEXT AND DRIVE! Maybe it’s the narrow roads, maybe it’s the break-neck speed at which everyone drives, or maybe it’s just that people understand how dangerous it is. In any event, it’s a relief to see.
You don’t see texting and driving here in Italy
Make way for the VIP… motorcycle parking is right over here. Now, this is something I could get into when I move back home! A lot of places have a designated area for motorcycle parking. This is great, because cars don’t lose full parking spaces to something 1/3 of their size. Obviously, it’s great for bikers who don’t have to spend time circling the lot. Additionally, these motorcycle parking spaces are put to good use year round – bikes are out on the road from January 1st through December 31st; not just in the spring and summer.
Motorcyclists use their bikes year round – she’s wearing a winter coat, gloves and pant warmerYear-round motorcycle use makes it easy to justify “motorcycle parking”
A free pen? Pen-shmen. Give me something good! Little freebies are appreciated in Italy, just like in America. I tease my father in law, because if you open any of his drawers, you are likely to see dozens of TD Bank pens and Wells Fargo notepads (apparently, his banking loyalty goes only as far as their freebies). It’s no different here, except for the free swag. I recently got my car serviced and became the proud recipient of a bag of riso (rice). Leave it to Italians to find a way to incorporate food into anything!
SHOPPING
Consumers in Italy shop for many regional goods; they have a strong preference for products made in their native land. And who can blame them? Italy is arguably the best place to buy clothes, food and many other products. Certainly, we are taking advantage while we are here.
Are you happy with your product? Good, because you had better be satisfied. Don’t even think about returning it! I’ve noted in the past that Italian businesses don’t offer nearly the same level of customer service that we’re accustomed to. But if you want to see the worst they have to offer – just try to return a product. You’ll get looked at like you just committed murder. If by some miracle, their store policy actually allows for returns (the newer, big box stores will let you exchange merchandise for credit), a surly employee will demand a receipt before scrutinizing the merchandise as if your intention to swap out the original product for some inferior one as if you were Warner Bros exchanging Christian Bale for Ben Affleck.
SALE! SALE! SALE! Well, you’d better break out the credit card… this stuff is at a steep 30%-70% discount! SALDI (sale) is the favorite sign of merchants all across the country. It seems that there are always sales going on. And you know what… they’ve got this guy hook…line…and sinker! We love buying our stuff when it’s on sale, be it at the grocery store or the clothing store.
PROMOZIONE! There is always a great sale going on in our grocery storeBut the BEST sales are when the wine is deeply discounted!
What did I just hear?! Did you just hear what you think you heard? Well, if what you think you heard was vulgar lyrics while shopping for bread in the grocery store, then you would be right. Whether from a lack of understanding of English or a lack of censorship; it is not uncommon to hear Brittany Spears telling you to “turn this sh*t up!” when you’re walking through the Bennet (our grocery store).
“Please don’t hit me one more time!”
PETS
The pets here are more or less the same as back at home. Most people prefer dogs and cats, but you have your occasional bird or even lizard depending on the personality of the owner. I would suggest that there are certainly more farm animals that are considered “part of the family” though – Claudia (our aunt) grew up loving her prized cow (and one of her best friends).
We welcome you with open arms, Paris Hilton. Back at home, only big celebrities can get away with bringing their pets anywhere they want. Here, it’s normal to see dogs outside of the park and inside your favorite restaurant. And I’m not just talking about “purse-dogs”. I mean, full on German Shepard’s in grocery stores, restaurants, subways (the subterranean transport – not the sandwich shop) and museums. Dogs really are that extra family member.
Julia and someone’s dog checking out the sights from inside Jen’s hair salon
100 grams of pasta is the rule… no exceptions.Cento grammi di pasta (100 grams of pasta) is the acceptable amount of pasta to eat (unless you’re having a secondo, in which case 80 grams is the way to go). Italians can accurately grab that exact amount of pasta from the package without looking twice or using a scale. So, if we’ve already determined that pets are really that extra family member – why should they be deprived of their daily pasta? A lot of the dog food here is served in pasta form. Buster knows the difference between his fusilli and bocconcini cuts of pasta just as well as his owner, Giovanni.
Pasta Naturale for FidoOr perhaps her prefers pasta pre cooked with ortaggi
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I’ve got even more to write, but then again… I’d like to stretch this series as long as the most perfect franchise ever, Police Academy (and I’m even talking about that seventh installment, the classic gem with a 3/10 rating Mission to Moscow). See you next time…
If you’ve been a reader of this [travel] blog for sometime, I may have convinced you about the benefits of cruising. You might even think that I’m lobbying for a job with one of the major cruise companies… and seeing as how I’ll need to resume gainful employment sooner rather than later, you may just be right. If I haven’t yet convinced you to book your next vacation on a massive floating wonderland, let me quickly state my case once again. Cruising offers you the opportunity to be pampered day and night while visiting far-off locales in multiple countries without unpacking more than once. You can soak up culture, splurge on shopping, enjoy theatre, gamble in the casino, relax in the spa or simply sit in your room and enjoy room service while taking in the most magical of views.
Julia is no stranger to being pampered. It scares me that my two year old now hands me the phone and tells me to “order dinner”
On top of all that, you will enjoy delectable cuisine any time of day or night. In my opinion (which, I’ve found is more fact than opinion since I’m right 98.8% of the time… just ask Jen), one of the best things about cruising is the food. I once read that the weight gain for your average cruise-goer can be up to a pound a day (do the math for a two week cruise). If the food can be the star of the show, truth be told – it can also be the downfall of your vacation if you’re served meals that are no better than bad banquet food (and you thought you had a lousy meal at Moritz Rosenstien’s bar mitzvah?). That is why careful research about your cruise line (and more importantly, the specific cruise ship) is of the utmost importance. We chose our most recent Mediterranean cruise on one of Celebrity Cruises newest ships, the Silhouette based on the itinerary and overwhelmingly positive reviews of the food. We were not disappointed.
“Tell me more, Dad. Give me the ins and outs of it all!”
It works like this; your per person cruise fare includes all the food in most of the ship’s restaurants. It will not include alcohol or soda, but you can purchase these “extras” with a drink package or à la carte as you go. Most ships have one or two main dining halls, where you can opt to eat your sit-down breakfast and dinner, paired at tables with other guests or by yourself (the choice is yours). This is where you will have your “fixed” dining time for dinner, although it is entirely up to you if you want to show up. Some cruise lines (Norwegian Cruise Lines) opt for a “freestyle” type of dining, so you just show up whenever you want. Nowadays, even the “fixed” dining times are fairly flexible on most ships. If you don’t want to slip out of your wife-beater and into a collared shirt, you’ll want to meander to the buffet on the upper level of the ship. Here you can serve yourself breakfast, lunch and dinner from the vast array of options (anything from contemporary American to Indian). At peak meal times you’d better have a “table-holder” and a “food-runner” who is not afraid to “throw bows“; it does get crowded. Don’t let any of those little old blue hairs fool you – they get serious about being next in line at the omelet station! Finally, you’ll have another casual restaurant near the pool deck – a pizza and/or burger joint. This is the basic formula for most cruise ships. Beyond that, larger ships have a few extra “free” options and then their “specialty dining” options.
In the main dining room where, on the last night they had a party to introduce the entire staff
The specialty dining restaurants usually range from $15/per person to $50/per person (not including gratuity). We found that on our Holland America cruise last summer onboard the Nieuw Amsterdam, their specialty dining was a steal. For $60 total (including tip), we ate at the Pinnacle Grill, a fabulous steak house – a meal that would easily approach $300 in any major city (that story is at the bottom of this post). On our next cruise this past winter on board the Silhouette, our ship offered more dining options, but at more of a premium. At $110+ per meal ($45/pp plus tip) we knew that we wouldn’t be able to enjoy all their fabulous specialty dining options – many of which feature James Beard chefs (Qsine, Blu, Murano, Tuscan Grill, Lawn Club, Bistro on Five and Bacio Gelateria). We had to choose carefully among them… and I think we nailed it!
The chef’s are like rock stars. Here, our Executive Chef (Anthony R. Wilson) ascends through the stage floor like he’s Mick JaggerJulia was quite literally knocked off her seat at the spectacle
Since this is not only a travelblog but also a foodblog (identity crisis, much?), I have used this post to feature two of the “specialty dining” restaurants on the Silhouette. This post is dedicated to two fabulous (is there a stronger word than fabulous? If so… insert it please) meals that we enjoyed at Qsine and Murano. I have included a description of each restaurant, copied directly from the company website.
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Qsine® offers a culinary journey that delivers elements of surprise and delight. Our James Beard featured Master Chef created Qsine to give you something you’ve never experienced before—on land or at sea. Leave any preconceived notions behind. Dig in and try new things. It’s time your palate got a wakeup call. Our iPad® menus make your dining experience even more fun and interactive.
“Popcorn” Fish n’ Chips – Boddingtons Battered Codfish & Chips, Malt Vinegar or AioliSushi Lollipops – Nigiri Sushi, Soy Center, Wasabi Mayo & Pickled Ginger-Radish SaladDisco Shrimp – Bouillon Poached Tiger Shrimp, Avocado, Tomato & Celery, with Cocktail Aioli and Crunchy ToppingsLava Crab – Alaskan King Crab, Sweet Yellow Corn & Scallions, Kataifi with Old-Bay Lobster SauceLobster Escargot – Lobster & Escargot Fritters with Parsley-Garlic Butter SauceSlider Party – Grilled Angus Beef Patties, Aged Wisconsin Cheddar, “Qsine Slider Sauce”, Brioche Buns & Garnishes…Taco “Royale” – Black Angus Sirloin Steak, Unordinary Tacos, Caramelized Onion-Poblano & Mortar Pestle GuacamoleJulia needed a chefs hat to properly mix the guacamolePainter’s Mignon – Filet Mignon with palatable pleasersYou can use the “surprise” puzzle box to select your dessertOr they’ll just show up with candied lollipops to tease your senses
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Impeccable service, classic design, world-class cuisine and comfortable sophistication are celebrated to the utmost in Murano. Experience tableside lobster presentation, an expansive selection of artisanal cheeses from around the world, or the extensive American and French wine list.
Charming and timeless, Murano transports you, through palate and décor, to a modern and sophisticated level of dining.
Jen and I are all aglow while attending an adult dinner without kids forks and sippy cupsThe lobster bisque had a wonderful table side presentationCreamy Maine Lobster Bisque – Leek and Shallot Flan, Cognac Cream, Crispy Sweet Yellow Corn BeignetsPork Belly – Parsnip Purée, Caramelized Apples, Calvados JusWarm Goat Cheese Soufflé – Smoked Tomato Coulis, Parmesan Cream, Basil PestoSmoked Salmon & Peekytoe Crab Parfait – Layered with Avocado, Salmon Caviar, Crème Fraîche, Petite GreensJen’s lobster was prepared table side – this poor guy almost never left the side of our table with all of his various preparationsSome of the ingredients mixed in to her lobster dishGreg’s Herb Crusted Lamb Rack – Pea Purée, Tomato Confit, Baby Carrots, Spice Meatball, Garlic JusJen’s Murano Lobster – Cognac Flambéed Warm Water Lobster Tail, Fresh Basil, Applewood Smoked Bacon, Dijon-CreamA Fine Selection of Artisan Cheeses served with Pain de Campagne and Dry FruitsMy cheese plateWOW!Caramel and White Coffee Ice Cream, Dolce, Far Niente, Napa ValleyGrand Marnier Soufflé – Crème Anglaise á la Gousse TahitienneCrêpe with fresh fruit topping prepared table side
We were drawn in by the fun food-play in Qsine and the ability to order our meal on iPads. The food and ambiance did not disappoint. We thoroughly enjoyed our meal at Murano because we had a built in surprise. My parents wanted to give Jen this meal for her birthday and even included four hours of “in-room” babysitting for Julia, which was even sweeter than the restaurant’s jaw dropping desserts. And in case you were counting, yes – that was four appetizers and three desserts in Murano (and countless dishes in Qsine). I mean, once you pay the price of admission… it’s all included, after all!
I hope you enjoyed taking another culinary voyage with me (this time on the high seas). I hope your taste buds were satisfied. Tune back in soon when we conclude our cruise with visits to Montenegro, Croatia, Sicily and Naples. Ciao tutti!
If you are notoriously known for having eyes that are bigger than your stomach, then Italy is the ideal place for you during the holidays. You will eat some of the most delectable food known to man… but you will certainly eat far too much of it! If you possess a willpower stronger than mine and think to yourself, “nonsense Greg, I always stop eating when I am full” then you are mistaken.
A table like this means it’s impossible to pace yourself
First, it is impossible to “budget” your intake. You will definitely want to sample all the delicious and unique treats on the table. The courses come in waves bigger than Australia’s Gold Coast and there is no telling when they will stop crashing on the table. So even if you simply try a little of everything, you’re still going to eat three times more than a normal meal. But that’s hardly the main reason. If you are a visitor in someone’s home, the hostess is absolutely going to give you the largest portions. And before you’re even done, you should expect seconds. This will continue over and over until a cold sweat starts to break above your brow. The trifecta of being force fed occurs if:
A) you are a man (and therefore expected to eat copious amounts of food)
B) you are a visitor from another country (Italians are very hospitable and eager to show off their regional specialties)
C) you are in a house where a nonna (grandma) is present (as if the hostess herself wasn’t enough, a nonna is guaranteed to guilt you into taking another several portions of food)
This trifecta of food-over-indulgence just happened to me during our six hour dinner on Vigilia di Natale (Christmas Eve). We are blessed to have wonderful neighbors below our condo. Stefano and Aurelia have become great friends of ours. They are among the kindest and most generous people we have had the pleasure of knowing. They have two sons, Giuseppe and Alessio that Julia loves playing with – and the boys are great with her. But there is an added bonus to knowing them that I haven’t yet mentioned. They are from Napoli (Naples)! “So, what’s the big deal” you say? Well, for starters, it means that they know how… to… live! They enjoy having big parties with lots of friends and family – and always with the most amazing food. We have enjoyed many phenomenal dinners with them and have gotten to know their large extended family as well as some of Naples’ most special food secrets.
A panini tower complete with festive cheese stars
A savory cheese torte with shrimp
Croquette di patate con polpa di granchio (potato croquette with crab meat)
We were thrilled when we got the invite to join them on Christmas Eve – we knew that we would be in for a treat. I think that in our minds, we set the bar as high as possible, only to have our lofty expectations shattered by an event even more amazing than our most creative fantasies. You’ll notice that I just called this dinner an event, as opposed to a meal. That’s because there are a few things in Italy that are more than they appear on the surface. Seeing La Traviata in Milan’s famous opera house, Teatro alla Scala is an event. Experiencing the sunrise over Rome’s Colosseum is an event. Finally, Christmas Eve dinner at Aurelia’s house is an event!
We arrived just after the standard “dinner-time” of 7:30 (there was no need for them to tell us arrival time, everyone just knows when to show up). After roughly 10 minutes of hugs and kisses and then another 20 minutes to decide where everyone was sitting, we sat down to start our meal at 8:00pm. The table was already full of antipasti (appetizers). Normally, I would have the self restraint of a blue ribbon hog presiding over a spread like this. However, this time I paced myself, knowing that this was just the tip of the iceberg (I’ve learned a lot over the past year). It was hard to show restraint around the carpaccio di polpo (octopus carpaccio) and ate more than I originally intended – but, it was pretty light after all.
Even though we had place cards – it still took a little while for everyone to find their proper place
Carpaccio di polpo (octopus carpaccio)
Another round of antipasti appeared, this time calamari (squid) in a spicy tomato sauce. Finally, we moved on to the primo (first course), an impressive pasta full of shellfish. Roughly two hours into the meal and we were only on the first course – fantastic! I was given a plate that was quickly removed because it had been determined (unbeknownst to me) that the portion was not sufficient. A portion much larger and impossibly packed with additional seafood appeared an instant later. The linguine pasta mixed perfectly with eye-popping amounts of clams, shrimp, mussels and calamari.
Aurelia’s niece serves some of the calamari
I couldn’t get a picture before everyone dug in… sorry!
The beautiful pasta dish was presented
My own plate, complete with a fuller portion
You’ve likely noticed a consistent theme to the meal by now. Our dinner was comprised almost entirely of seafood dishes. Jen and I were under the impression that the meal we were enjoying is what is commonly known as, “The Feast of Seven Fishes” and so we asked one of the guests about it. The answer was so perfectly Italian. “No, there is no number of fish. You just eat fish.” That’s it. Case closed. No “Feast of Seven Fishes”. Just fish, because… you eat fish. It turns out that the “Feast of Seven Fishes” is more of an Italian-American thing than an Italian thing. Obviously, there is truth to the tradition of eating fish. However, there is no hard and fast rule about the number of fish – you just eat as much as the hostess has time to cook (this is coming from the Napolitani – the people that started the tradition). If you’re looking for “The Feast of Seven Fishes,” you’re better off booking a flight to the Jersey shore than you would be to Italy.
After the pasta, we were finally able to move to our secondo (main course). Stefano presented a fish that any man would be proud to claim as his own – a fish large enough to feed a small village. In our case, it would feed a small apartment building. They also served another traditional fish, baccala – which is a salted and dried cod. For the preparation, they chose to lightly fry it. Our contorni (side dishes) were fried carciofi (artichokes) and fried cavolfiore (cauliflower).
Stefano and Aurelia bring out the fish
Stefano skillfully divides the fish
The fried baccala
The fried artichokes
At this point in the meal, any normal human would beg for mercy. He would pray that the food would cease to appear. But there is always that tiny little voice (perhaps due to a food-induced hallucination) in the back of his mind saying, “I wonder what’s next.” Well, in this case it was the most amazing platter of gamberoni (king prawns) that you’ve ever seen. Magically, the platter got completely re-filled once the first supply had dwindled. My plate quickly became an overgrown graveyard of prawn shells.
We stopped eating long enough for Babbo Natale (Santa Claus) to bring presents for all the kids
Franco shows us how to balance a coin on the edge of his glass
The nonna next to him had the line of the night – “I don’t drink water at the table. Only wine. Always.”
Success!
The gamberoni appear
Not everyone made it the full six hours without a power nap
As we crossed past midnight and into Natale (Christmas), the prosecco (Italian sparkling wine) flowed freely. My guesstimate is roughly eight bottles of the bubbly were popped over the course of the evening. After dinner wound down, the fruit appeared. But not your typical fruit plate – more of your, “let’s go harvest a field of fruit and put it in this basket” type of presentation. Same thing for the nuts. Then we had our first dessert – a carpaccio of pineapple, sweetened with sugar and adorned with currant and blueberries. And then, the main dessert! A homemade yule log made of chocolate and compete with the wood graining and extra trees for decoration. It was delicious. Guess who got the biggest piece – larger than any normal dessert after a regular-sized meal! As if that wasn’t enough dessert, regional specialties from the best pastry shops in Naples appeared. Jen and I searched for any spare millimeter of space left in our stomachs – we simply had to sample each one. Lastly, we needed our espresso and grappa. I went with a barrel aged Brunello grappa – I was pleased with my choice.
Fresh fruit – oranges, mandarins and lychee
A mixture of nuts
A pineapple carpaccio
The chocolate yule log
I love when Stefano appears with any kind of bag of homemade goodies
In this case, it was a unique homemade cookie typical of Naples
The grappa was the last thing to appear
It was nearly 2:00am (six hours later) when we started our long walk home (truthfully, I couldn’t have made it any further than a single flight of stairs). Jen and I crawled into bed, completely satisfied after eating one of the most amazing meals we have ever had. We both gave thanks that Julia was not old enough to wake us at the crack of dawn, eager over Santa’s arrival. Of course, Jen and I were sad to not be with our immediate family this Christmas, but we were grateful that we were adopted by such a warm and loving family here in Italy. And of course, it didn’t hurt that they provided the event of a lifetime.
Since Thanksgiving is tomorrow – here is a suggestion of something you can do to dress up your leftovers.
Risotto is a favorite of mine; winter, spring, summer or fall. While cooking risotto, I like to use fresh, seasonal ingredients – and with fall comes all things pumpkin. So, this was my chance to combine one of my favorite dishes with one of my favorite fall flavors.
Risotto con zucca (Risotto with pumpkin)
However, when it came to the Thanksgiving dinner we just had, I knew it would be too much for a first course. While risotto is relatively simple to prepare it is time consuming and requires my undivided attention for at least 20 minutes. I decided instead to create a new family tradition. My plan was to serve pumpkin risotto the day after Thanksgiving, along with all of the other delicious leftovers. I think it’s a perfect way to add a new element to a meal we’ve already eaten a couple times over by lunch the next day. I had plenty of left over zucca (pumpkin) from the soup course, which worked out perfectly. I have officially converted Greg into a pumpkin/squash lover. If you want to add some Italian flavors to your holiday meal this year, check out my simple recipe. I hope your family enjoys it as much as we do.
INGREDIENTS (serving of 4)
>Olive oil
>One (1) small onion (diced)
>Four (4) cups of chicken stock
>Nine (9) palms of arborio rice (two per person with one extra). Roughly two (2) cups
>Half (½) – full (1) cup of white wine (depending on taste… and quality of wine)
>Roughly ½ cup of grated parmesan cheese and additional cheese for the table and for garnish
>Third (1/3) stick of butter
>Salt to taste
>One and a half (1 ½) cups of cubed butternut squash (one butternut squash cleaned, peeled and deseeded)
The ingredients
Arborio rice
Directions
>Cube the pumpkin and dice the onion
Prepare your pumpkin and onion
>Heat chicken stock in a pot
>On a separate burner, heat olive oil in a large flat pan with high sides. Add onion and squash until it is softened and the onion is translucent. While the onion and squash are cooking, add a dash of salt. This could take a little over 5 minutes. Don’t allow the onions to brown
Watch that the onions don’t burn
>Add the rice and mix together. Stir until the rice is toasted (but not brown) about three – four (3-4) minutes
Stir in the rice
>Add the wine and continue to cook the rice until the wine is absorbed. After a minute, add a ladle or two of the stock, stirring the rice continuously until the liquid is absorbed
Laddle in the broth
>Continue stirring and ladling the broth for approximately fifteen (15) minutes. Be sure to taste as you go and add salt accordingly. The rice should be al dente and creamy
Keep stirring and add more broth once it’s absorbed
>Remove from heat and stir in butter and Parmesan cheese. Cover and allow pan to sit for five (5) minutes
Stir in the parmesano
Cover and let sit for five minutes
>Serve right away and top with fresh grated Parmesan cheese
Don’t forget to add the grana (grated cheese) and enjoy
PLEASE NOTE – Cooking risotto requires constant attention. Make sure the table is set and everything else you are serving is ready before you begin the rice.
Don’t forget to combine your risotto with your Thanksgiving leftovers!
Is it possible that the turkey gets better after the Thanksgiving meal?!
Combine whatever sides you have leftover
I hope that you’ve enjoyed this recipe and that perhaps you’ll try to incorporate it into this year’s Thanksgiving! Let us know if you do and buon appetito!
