Jennifer and I simply love outdoor markets. Jen holds on to the belief that she’s going to stumble across a vintage Louis Vuitton handbag or uncover that perfect piece for our future living room. I’ve got much lower (and more realistic expectations); I’m just thrilled that I get to eat “street food”. Nothing is better than a porchetta paninio (pork sandwich) from a food vendor with freshly fried zeppole(Italian donuts) for dessert. I love sandwiches, I love eating outside and I love feeding my entire family for less than €20!
Pack your bags, let’s check out the market!All of us at the Mercatone dell’Antiquariato
Jen has been trying to get to the Mercatone dell’Antiquariato del Naviglio Grande since we moved here nearly a year and a half ago. “What’s the big deal – why is it so hard to make it to a market”, you ask? Well, this particular market only takes place on the last Sunday of each month (except for July). For those of you that aren’t math wizards, that’s just eleven chances a year to make it to Milan for this 80-year-old Milanese tradition. Our first attempt was foiled – we set out one day in January of 2013, but got derailed when we couldn’t find parking. It was ambitious of me to try so soon after moving to Italy – had I known then what I know now, I would have just thrown my car on the curb like the hundreds of other locals. Instead, we stopped for lunch and found an amazing sandwich place, which I blogged about HERE. After lunch, we lost the motivation to go back and agreed, “we’ll try again as soon as we get the next opportunity”. Well, travel and other obligations delayed that opportunity fifteen more months.
Jen’s sister Jessica along with Jen and JuliaMatt and JessicaAnother family photo along the Alzaia Naviglio Grande
We had been casually referring to the market as “Milan’s Antique Market”. Certainly, there is some truth in referring to the Mercatone dell’Antiquariato as an antique market, but perhaps flea market is a more apt description. The products sold range from old shoes to mid-century furniture. You can acquisition antique coffee makers or art by local artists. The best part about paying a visit to this unique bazaar is that you’ll never know what you need until you find it.
Tables full of treasureSome old photography equipmentLoved this old record playerJust in case you need some new framesThe stores also sell antiques – here is a classic espresso maker once used in a coffee bar
Roughly 380 vendors wind their way up Alzaia Naviglio Grande, placing their backs to the canal. This trendy neighborhood in Milan features many cafes and bars that call to the younger, artistic crowd. Jen and I had been hoping to get away from the centro (center) of Milan and visit this particular area for some time. Well, two birds… as they say. As lunch time approached, we picked a great pizzeria in a former factory – the space was as great as the food. If you find yourself in Milan near the last weekend of the month, be sure to carve out some time for the Mercatone dell’Antiquariato.
Vendors display along the canalThe neighborhood is full of artists and street art
INFORMATION
WHAT » Mercatone dell’Antiquariato del Naviglio Grande
WHEN » Last Sunday of every month (except July)
WHERE » Milan
ADDRESS » Strada Alzaia Naviglio Grande, via Valenza, South TRANSPORT » Metro Porta Genova/bus 59, 74, 169 Tram 2, 3, 9, 14, 15, 29, 30
Since the moment my wife Jennifer laid eyes on her baby sister, Jessica, they formed a strong bond that has only developed over time. Sure, Jennifer usually acts more like her mother than her sister and yes, there have been a few lively battles resulting in a couple “boo-boos”, but they are as close as any two sisters I have ever known.
Jen and her younger sister, Jessica overtop Lake Como
That’s why we were thrilled when we learned of a last-minute vacation Jessica planned with her boyfriend, Matt. We were doubly excited because not only were we going to spend time with Jessica, but we were finally going to be able to meet Matt. Living in Italy comes with its obvious benefits, but we do miss out on a lot at home and so we are thrilled any time “home” comes to us.
I picked Matt and Jessica up at the airport and after completing a brief pit stop at home, whisked them to downtown Como. Como is a great first stop for anyone trying to avoid succumbing to jet lag. We walked around the city and rode the finiculare up to one of our favorite spots – Brunate. There, we soaked up the views of the lake and ate a scrumptious lunch at one of our favorite little spots, Bella Vista (Beautiful View).
A picture of Lake Como as we walked aroundFamily photo in front of the lakeMatt and Jess take a picture in front of Lake ComoJulia guides Matt and Jess onto the finiculare headed down from Brunate
We decided that we wanted the next day to be all about authenticity (OK, perhaps I steered the tour in that direction) and so we ascended through the hills of Menaggio, one of our favorite lake towns. I had read about a little rifugio, which literally translated means, refuge or shelter. If you’re talking about a visit to a rifugio for lunch, you’re referring to a place that is far up in the hills, buried deep beneath the trees and usually only known to locals. You need to be prepared to eat in a converted home or even a glorified shack and you certainly shouldn’t expect quality roads (sometimes you have to abandon your car and hoof it). But if you’re willing to brave all that, you will find that they are… fabulous! Apart from really getting a feel of “authentic Italy”, the views and food are almost always worth the journey. La Baita was one of our favorite restaurant experiences in a long time (read my full review with extra photos on TripAdvisor, entitled “Authentic and Delicious”). We enjoyed bresaola (cured meat), homemade pasta served family style and plenty of mouth water roasts. We were so full that we felt like simply rolling back down the hill into town. Of course, by the time we descended into the town of Menaggio, we had all found enough space in our bellies for some gelato.
La Baita – a wonderful rifugio that we will definitely be visiting againWe started with bresaola as our antipastaWe had three different pastas, served family style. We each had our own favoriteThe view from the terrace out backMatt and Jessica take a picture on the terraceMatt shows Julia how to take a great pictureWe strolled around Menaggio, which is one of our favorite lake townsWhat do you call a photo-bomb by a toddler?Julia and I walk the small beachHanging out with the guysPosing with mom by the lake
The following day was Matt’s birthday and so the lovebirds took a boat to Bellagio and spent the entire day exploring the “jewel of Lake Como” on their own. They even went out to a romantic dinner in Lake Como, a place known for their Bistecca alla Fiorentina (nothing says romance like splitting two(+) pounds of perfectly cooked beef). Something about an overtired toddler crashing their dinner didn’t seem appealing to anyone, so we hung back and let them go at it alone. Matt realized that while they were in Bellagio, he had left his camera; so he and I picked up the following morning. I’m sure he’s one of a few people who can boast back to back visits to Bellagio with the second visit lasting less than five minutes. Since the morning was spent traveling to Bellagio and back (it’s an hour each way by car on slow and winding roads) we all decided that a leisurely afternoon BBQ was just what the doctor ordered! We closed the day with drinks in Como, always a surefire hit.
Matt and Jessica before their “date night”Matt and I pulled over for a “selfie” on the way to get his camera. Bellagio is the peninsula behind usMatt and I grilled when we got homeWe cooked some chicken (with American dry rub I smuggled back from my last trip home)Costine (ribs)I asked Julia to watch over the meat for us while we grabbed a drinkGrilled vegetablesInsalata di pomodoro (tomato salad)The table is set and ready for a partyThe gals…
The guys
Drinks in Como after our BBQ
We still had plenty more to do with Matt and Jessica, including a trip to the antique market of Milan and a tour of Bergamo – but each of those are deserving of their own post. Sadly, our time with them felt short, as they left us to visit Rome and Venice on their own; but we were thrilled that we got the chance to meet Matt and glad to see Jessica back in her favorite home away from home… Italia!
I have celebrated the year changing exactly thirty-four times. That is a lot of ball drops, backward counting and champagne toasts. In the thirty-four times I have seen the calendar progress another year, I have experienced elaborate dinners, small family gatherings, massive ballroom parties and cozy nights in. I have had “the night of my life” and “the disappointment of a lifetime.” In all this time, I have learned that a valuable life lesson. When you place an unhealthy amount of expectations on any one thing (in this case, an evening), it is hard to meet or exceed the vision you’ve created in your own head.
Fireworks light up the sky behind Milan’s Duomo
Fortunately, disappointment was not the theme as we rang in 2014. The stakes were at an all-time high and the night came together as well as anyone could have hoped. A couple months ago we got an email from our friends Matt and Lindsey that they wanted to come to Italy and ring in the new year with us. Our plans for a low-key Italian New Years with the traditional zampone and lentils quickly changed as I scoured the dinner venues of Milan. After a lot of research, we came up with a plan that we thought was perfect. A prix-fixe meal at a lounge just steps from Milan’s Duomo in the main piazza (square). Jen read that there would be fireworks visible at midnight and so the plan sounded perfect.
A stage was set up in front of the Duomo for live performances throughout the night
Matt and Lindsey arrived the night before New Years and we enjoyed a low-key dinner that Jen prepared. Matt got to the train station in typical “Matt fashion”… three hours late, without any warning of his delay and a frantic look in his eyes. We were both glad I waited for the last train to pull into the station!
When I made our New Year’s dinner reservation, I was told that we should arrive at 8:30pm. I knew the Italians wouldn’t be arriving at that time, so I planned our arrival at 9:00pm. We were still about an hour early! So much for looking like a local! We started our evening with a little prosecco (Italian champagne) and moved through our four course meal accompanied by some great red wine and sparkling conversation. The atmosphere for a New Year’s dinner was perfect. The music and lights were set just right, as if to say, “this place is hip and you’ve still got it” as opposed to saying, “this place is entirely too formal – what are you doing here, you’re still sort of young!” Or even worse, “this is a club with twenty-somethings and you old fogies don’t fit in at all.” By the time all the Italians had arrived, it was evident we picked the right place for dinner. We were surrounded by some of Milan’s elite – fashion designers and models.
Matt and Lindsey
Greg and Jen
We’re ready to have some fun!
Our group at dinner
Out of nowhere, it was almost midnight. We surprised our server by telling him we wanted the bill, as opposed to staying for their champagne toast. We had bigger plans in place! We rushed to the Duomo, a five minute walk through a dense sea of people. We arrived with just a couple minutes left until midnight and I struggled to prepare everything. We had brought bottles of prosecco and Jen insisted on plastic champagne glasses. While thousands of other people were counting down and swigging from their bottles, I was fiddling with the bases for the plastic glasses. I had only finished two glasses when the countdown reached five, so I threw the remaining glasses on the ground in desperation. I’d be damned if “etiquette” was going to get in the way of us having our bubbly at midnight!
Jen and Lindsey in front of the Duomo
Me and Jen just after midnight
In keeping with tradition, Jen tried calling our family to wish them a “Happy New Year”
We had been excited to see the fireworks light up the night’s sky behind the Duomo all night. When we arrived in the piazza, we learned that the firework show Jen had read about was a different kind of event altogether. Please allow me to give a small background for our international readers. You see, Americans do fireworks right! I think it’s in our DNA, like baseball and childhood obesity. So when we read that there would be fireworks, we assumed it was going to be a major production – administered by professionals at a safe distance from the crowd. We have never been so wrong. All the fireworks being set were ignited by people from within the crowd. There were literally explosions at our feet, above our heads, behind our backs at regular minute-long intervals. It was not uncommon to see a huge gap in the crowd as dozens of people pushed and shoved their way away from a ready to explode M-80 or Excalibur Artillery Shell. It evoked a strange sensation of festive revelry with an ever-present sense of impending doom. The Outkast song “Bombs Over Baghdad” kept playing over and over in my mind.
Fireworks above the crowd
Jen and Lindsey show their sheer terror
Someone (ehehm… Jen) spilled prosecco all over Matt
We all agreed that the night would land in the “Epic New Year’s Eve” column as opposed the other column, “How Much Did I Spend For This Awful Disappointment?!” We stayed in the piazza until roughly 1:00am before heading home. We didn’t want to get back too late, we had to depart early the next day for the road trip of a lifetime. Matt and I were ringing in the new year by checking off a lifelong bucket list item… skiing the Swiss Alps!
This was predestined to be a low-key Christmas. In fact, the most low-key Christmas either of us had ever experienced. When I was young, we would gather as a family and open mountains of presents before our grandparents came and joined in the fun. Jen’s experience of Christmas as a little girl was no different. Since we started dating over ten years ago, our two families have merged and we have always made the holidays the grand event it should be. Since it’s just the three of us here in Italy, we knew this year would be small in comparison. But at the same time, we were eager to set our own family traditions now that Julia is old enough to understand what’s going on.
Our low-key Christmas
We developed a plan based on our vision of how we wanted the day to unfold (OK, OK. Jen’s vision… Jen’s plan. I just helped when possible). Fortunately, our low-key Christmas did not disappoint. First we had to set up the tree, which we did well before the big day. We capped that evening off with popcorn (a real treat for Julia) and a movie (The Polar Express).
Julia strikes a fashionable pose after I set the tree in place
She helps her mother trim the tree
Then it’s time for a break and a Christmas movie
On Christmas morning, we struggled to roll out of bed – still full from an epic Christmas Eve dinner the night before. We could barely keep out in front of Julia with the camera flashing and the video rolling. She was beyond eager to see what Santa brought her and went for his presents first.
Julia opens a present from Babbo Natale (Santa Claus)
“It’s a SAXOPHONE?!”
“Is this how it works?”
“Oh, no – like this!”
Jen takes a picture with Julia, but I think she’s more interesting her Peppa Pig chocolate bar
“Wow, a guitar too?!”
“Are you for real? Is this for ME?!”
“I can be my own band – bring my my microphone, please!”
After opening Santa’s musical gifts, she next moved onto the gifts from her nonni (Jen’s parents) and her Grandma and Pop-Pop (my parents). Franco and Claudia (Jen’s aunt and uncle that live above us) came down for part of the gift opening. We took a brief pause for breakfast – it was already 9:00am and the Italians from upstairs were freaking out that they were eating off-schedule. Jen fixed a delicious french toast casserole, made even better with sciroppo d’acero (maple syrup – which is not easy to find in Italy). She served it with fresh fruit and cappuccino. Franco and Claudia retired upstairs after breakfast and we helped Julia open her remaining presents. We spent a pleasant afternoon playing with Julia and her new booty. Later that evening, we hosted Franco and Claudia for dinner. We put on a simple spread – real Italian comfort food. Antipasti followed by brodo con tortellini and simple salads.
Julia works on removing her brand new Furby from Nonna
Julia plays with her new cash register from her accountant, Pop-Pop
Jen’s breakfast
Julia and I jam out after breakfast
The day after Christmas is the day of Santo Stefano – another good reason for families to gather and feast once again. This time, Franco and Claudia wanted to host the whole family. This included our family, as well as the families of Franco’s sons – Massimo and Gianni. We all gathered at the standard lunch time and feasted on antipasti (many, many appetizers), primi (a choice of pasta bolognese or zuppa di pesce – my choice was both), secondi (an arrosto di vitello and a turkey that Jen prepared at the request of Gianni). Of course there were plenty of contorni (side dishes) and wonderful wine. When the traditional panettone was served, Gianni thought it would be fun to whip up some crema al mascarpone (mascarpone cream), which we also put in our espresso.
The table is set for the family
Jen brought up some dates stuffed with mascarpone & formaggio di capra, wrapped in prosciutto
One of our favorite types of antipasto – spicy peppers stuff with tuna. Try before you judge, it’s delicious
Julia dressed up in some of her fancy new princess treasures
Gianni’s wife, Giussi helps him whip up some crema al mascarpone
It made for a delicious topper on our espresso
You may think the fun is over by now… but you see – Italians know how to keep a good thing going (i.e. our six-hour meal on Christmas Eve). It should come as no surprise that extending their holidays are no different. On January 6th, La Festa dell’Epifania (The Epiphany) marks the final celebration of the season. Just as Santa Claus often overshadows the birth of Christ, so too does the candy-weilding Befana monopolize the day God revealed his son as a human being. Oh well, presents and candy are certainly more fun than religion and history – especially for a child. Just as Santa flies in his sleigh to deliver presents to the world’s boys and girls, the Befana flies on her broom to leave candy in the socks of children. Although she hasn’t quite racked up the amount of frequent flyer miles as the big guy – she always stops at the border of Italy. Just like her bearded counterpart, she even leaves coal for the bad kids. Although they don’t really come out empty handed – it’s actually carbone dolce (candy shaped coal… which turns out to be pure sugar… as well as my coffee sweetener this past week).
The Befana visits Julia
“Just look at this spread!”
Of course, we missed our friends and family this year – but as far as low-key Christmases go, we sure had a lot of fun (and great food)!
If you are notoriously known for having eyes that are bigger than your stomach, then Italy is the ideal place for you during the holidays. You will eat some of the most delectable food known to man… but you will certainly eat far too much of it! If you possess a willpower stronger than mine and think to yourself, “nonsense Greg, I always stop eating when I am full” then you are mistaken.
A table like this means it’s impossible to pace yourself
First, it is impossible to “budget” your intake. You will definitely want to sample all the delicious and unique treats on the table. The courses come in waves bigger than Australia’s Gold Coast and there is no telling when they will stop crashing on the table. So even if you simply try a little of everything, you’re still going to eat three times more than a normal meal. But that’s hardly the main reason. If you are a visitor in someone’s home, the hostess is absolutely going to give you the largest portions. And before you’re even done, you should expect seconds. This will continue over and over until a cold sweat starts to break above your brow. The trifecta of being force fed occurs if:
A) you are a man (and therefore expected to eat copious amounts of food)
B) you are a visitor from another country (Italians are very hospitable and eager to show off their regional specialties)
C) you are in a house where a nonna (grandma) is present (as if the hostess herself wasn’t enough, a nonna is guaranteed to guilt you into taking another several portions of food)
This trifecta of food-over-indulgence just happened to me during our six hour dinner on Vigilia di Natale (Christmas Eve). We are blessed to have wonderful neighbors below our condo. Stefano and Aurelia have become great friends of ours. They are among the kindest and most generous people we have had the pleasure of knowing. They have two sons, Giuseppe and Alessio that Julia loves playing with – and the boys are great with her. But there is an added bonus to knowing them that I haven’t yet mentioned. They are from Napoli (Naples)! “So, what’s the big deal” you say? Well, for starters, it means that they know how… to… live! They enjoy having big parties with lots of friends and family – and always with the most amazing food. We have enjoyed many phenomenal dinners with them and have gotten to know their large extended family as well as some of Naples’ most special food secrets.
A panini tower complete with festive cheese stars
A savory cheese torte with shrimp
Croquette di patate con polpa di granchio (potato croquette with crab meat)
We were thrilled when we got the invite to join them on Christmas Eve – we knew that we would be in for a treat. I think that in our minds, we set the bar as high as possible, only to have our lofty expectations shattered by an event even more amazing than our most creative fantasies. You’ll notice that I just called this dinner an event, as opposed to a meal. That’s because there are a few things in Italy that are more than they appear on the surface. Seeing La Traviata in Milan’s famous opera house, Teatro alla Scala is an event. Experiencing the sunrise over Rome’s Colosseum is an event. Finally, Christmas Eve dinner at Aurelia’s house is an event!
We arrived just after the standard “dinner-time” of 7:30 (there was no need for them to tell us arrival time, everyone just knows when to show up). After roughly 10 minutes of hugs and kisses and then another 20 minutes to decide where everyone was sitting, we sat down to start our meal at 8:00pm. The table was already full of antipasti (appetizers). Normally, I would have the self restraint of a blue ribbon hog presiding over a spread like this. However, this time I paced myself, knowing that this was just the tip of the iceberg (I’ve learned a lot over the past year). It was hard to show restraint around the carpaccio di polpo (octopus carpaccio) and ate more than I originally intended – but, it was pretty light after all.
Even though we had place cards – it still took a little while for everyone to find their proper place
Carpaccio di polpo (octopus carpaccio)
Another round of antipasti appeared, this time calamari (squid) in a spicy tomato sauce. Finally, we moved on to the primo (first course), an impressive pasta full of shellfish. Roughly two hours into the meal and we were only on the first course – fantastic! I was given a plate that was quickly removed because it had been determined (unbeknownst to me) that the portion was not sufficient. A portion much larger and impossibly packed with additional seafood appeared an instant later. The linguine pasta mixed perfectly with eye-popping amounts of clams, shrimp, mussels and calamari.
Aurelia’s niece serves some of the calamari
I couldn’t get a picture before everyone dug in… sorry!
The beautiful pasta dish was presented
My own plate, complete with a fuller portion
You’ve likely noticed a consistent theme to the meal by now. Our dinner was comprised almost entirely of seafood dishes. Jen and I were under the impression that the meal we were enjoying is what is commonly known as, “The Feast of Seven Fishes” and so we asked one of the guests about it. The answer was so perfectly Italian. “No, there is no number of fish. You just eat fish.” That’s it. Case closed. No “Feast of Seven Fishes”. Just fish, because… you eat fish. It turns out that the “Feast of Seven Fishes” is more of an Italian-American thing than an Italian thing. Obviously, there is truth to the tradition of eating fish. However, there is no hard and fast rule about the number of fish – you just eat as much as the hostess has time to cook (this is coming from the Napolitani – the people that started the tradition). If you’re looking for “The Feast of Seven Fishes,” you’re better off booking a flight to the Jersey shore than you would be to Italy.
After the pasta, we were finally able to move to our secondo (main course). Stefano presented a fish that any man would be proud to claim as his own – a fish large enough to feed a small village. In our case, it would feed a small apartment building. They also served another traditional fish, baccala – which is a salted and dried cod. For the preparation, they chose to lightly fry it. Our contorni (side dishes) were fried carciofi (artichokes) and fried cavolfiore (cauliflower).
Stefano and Aurelia bring out the fish
Stefano skillfully divides the fish
The fried baccala
The fried artichokes
At this point in the meal, any normal human would beg for mercy. He would pray that the food would cease to appear. But there is always that tiny little voice (perhaps due to a food-induced hallucination) in the back of his mind saying, “I wonder what’s next.” Well, in this case it was the most amazing platter of gamberoni (king prawns) that you’ve ever seen. Magically, the platter got completely re-filled once the first supply had dwindled. My plate quickly became an overgrown graveyard of prawn shells.
We stopped eating long enough for Babbo Natale (Santa Claus) to bring presents for all the kids
Franco shows us how to balance a coin on the edge of his glass
The nonna next to him had the line of the night – “I don’t drink water at the table. Only wine. Always.”
Success!
The gamberoni appear
Not everyone made it the full six hours without a power nap
As we crossed past midnight and into Natale (Christmas), the prosecco (Italian sparkling wine) flowed freely. My guesstimate is roughly eight bottles of the bubbly were popped over the course of the evening. After dinner wound down, the fruit appeared. But not your typical fruit plate – more of your, “let’s go harvest a field of fruit and put it in this basket” type of presentation. Same thing for the nuts. Then we had our first dessert – a carpaccio of pineapple, sweetened with sugar and adorned with currant and blueberries. And then, the main dessert! A homemade yule log made of chocolate and compete with the wood graining and extra trees for decoration. It was delicious. Guess who got the biggest piece – larger than any normal dessert after a regular-sized meal! As if that wasn’t enough dessert, regional specialties from the best pastry shops in Naples appeared. Jen and I searched for any spare millimeter of space left in our stomachs – we simply had to sample each one. Lastly, we needed our espresso and grappa. I went with a barrel aged Brunello grappa – I was pleased with my choice.
Fresh fruit – oranges, mandarins and lychee
A mixture of nuts
A pineapple carpaccio
The chocolate yule log
I love when Stefano appears with any kind of bag of homemade goodies
In this case, it was a unique homemade cookie typical of Naples
The grappa was the last thing to appear
It was nearly 2:00am (six hours later) when we started our long walk home (truthfully, I couldn’t have made it any further than a single flight of stairs). Jen and I crawled into bed, completely satisfied after eating one of the most amazing meals we have ever had. We both gave thanks that Julia was not old enough to wake us at the crack of dawn, eager over Santa’s arrival. Of course, Jen and I were sad to not be with our immediate family this Christmas, but we were grateful that we were adopted by such a warm and loving family here in Italy. And of course, it didn’t hurt that they provided the event of a lifetime.
Robert Downey Jr. will be the first to tell you that you never go full Italian. But if you’re planning on living in Italy for more than a few months… the chances of going “full Italian” are pretty strong. Truly being an Italian is rooted deeper than the country in which you live or the ancestors to which you are tied. Being Italian is a state of mind. It will affect the way you think, the way you eat and the way you love. Did I mention that it will affect the way you eat?
If you’re unsure whether or not you’ve gone “full Italian” – here is a list of telltale signs. The longer you live in Italy, the more susceptible you are to each and every point. If you’re happy with the changes (perhaps the improved fashion sense and appreciation of wine) – stroll in to your favorite enoteca and plan to stay a little longer. However, if the changes scare you (perhaps the increased volume at which you speak or your daily critique of the food you’re eating) – well then, hop on the first olive oil freighter and high-tail it home (there’s one leaving now… there’s another one… and another one…).
1. YOUR HAND WORKS IN CONJUNCION WITH YOUR MOUTH
This is probably the first visible transformation as you begin to morph into a full Italian. When you consistently discover your thumb meeting your other four fingers as if you’re tenderly cupping a tiny quail egg… and then shake it vigorously up and down like you intend to scramble it inside the shell – you’re starting to look a lot like a local. Italians are very expressive and use their hands to illustrate their points. Apart from hand gestures working in harmony with your words, speaking with just your hands is a language unto itself. The same gesture can mean, “he’s always late”, “that’s expensive”, “that’s inexpensive”, “stop busting my chops”… and much, much more.
2. IT’S SEVENTY DEGREES AND SUNNY BUT YOU’RE WEARING A SCARF
OK, it’s seventy and sunny – but is it November? Oh, well in that case – you’d better have your scarf on. And a hat and a heavy coat and two layers beneath it and don’t forget the gloves, just in case. You did say it was November, right? Italians dress for the season – not the weather. This means that no matter what the weather brings – you can always tell who is Italian and who is just visiting. I turned every head in my grocery store when we first moved here by shopping for toilet paper wearing shorts and flip flops… in February.
Scarf… check. Hat…check. Gloves…check. Big puffy coat…check. “Mom, am I supposed to be sweating this much?”
3. YOU CAN SET YOUR WATCH TO YOUR STOMACH
The time lunch starts deviates slightly throughout the country – people eat earlier in the north than they do in the south, but one thing never changes. You eat at the exact same time as everyone else in your region, every… single…day. This means planning an entire day around lunch. Shops are closed for lunch, parks are emptied for lunch – basically the country shuts down until lunch is over. You can’t schedule a visit to another city unless the timing of that visit works with your lunch plans. Once accustomed to the dietary habits of your region, don’t deviate from the script or your stomach will start kicking harder than, Dominic the Christmas Donkey.
“I’m hungry… let’s get some lunch!”
4. IT’S TIME FOR COFFEE… AGAIN
I don’t mean the Starbucks 20 oz coffee that gets you through the morning drive. I mean an espresso – quickly and skillfully delivered by a barista that will make a thousand more in the same day. You can drink your coffee at the bar or at the table, with a little milk or without – but you’re virtually required to have more than one. You’ll need your coffee with biscotti(breakfast cookies) in the morning, a mid-morning coffee, another immediately after lunch, an afternoon cafe and possibly one after dinner. And that’s if you’re conservative – we have friends and family that drink as many as a dozen espressos’ in a day. The Italians didn’t invent coffee – but they elevated drinking it into a form of art.
“15 espresso’s a day multiplied by 7 days a week divided by 24 hours in a day times 31 days in a month…
forget it! Bring me another coffee!!”
5. YOU SERVE BREAD WITH EVERY MEAL
This was a great mystery to me. There is always bread served with every meal, but no one ever seemed to eat it (you don’t eat it withyour pasta and by the time your secondohas arrived, it’s too late). Magically, the bread always disappears and yet everyone in the country remains skinny. I thought there must be an overweight fatina dei pane (bread fairy) flying across tabletops with an insatiable appetite for baked goods. What I learned is that Italians eat the bread in moderation and at specific points in the meal (as a conduit for sugo, for example). When you can skillfully (and secretly) devour the appropriate portion of bread – you have mastered one of the finest and least-known Italian skills.
Keep an eye out for the Italian Bread Fairy to help you eat your bread
6. YOU CAN FIND THE COUNTERPOINT IN ANY DISCUSSION
You know that you’ve gone full Italian the moment you voluntarily enter into the arena of Italy’s most popular sport – discussing politics. Once you start cutting and slicing across your political talking points like a young Barry Sanders dancing across the Silverdome, you’ve reached the Champion’s League of your Italian-ness. A less challenging, but still very “Italian” way of thinking is to engage in a conversation at argument-level volume by simply disagreeing. Or better yet – agreeing, but doing it so loudly that non-Italian passerby’s surely think you are involved in a spate with a mortal enemy… not a good friend.
Bonus points if you can use an Italian soccer play in your analogy as opposed to American Football player.
“Heyyy, I told you I wanted a BIG salami”
“I told YOU, that WAS a big salami!”
7. YOU WILL LITERALLY GIVE THE SHIRT OFF YOUR BACK
Living in Italy is good for your soul – especially when it alters how you treat other people. It is impossible not to let the infectious Italian generosity and hospitality seep into your persona. Embrace the change and soon you’ll find yourself at the airport at 1:30am – picking up a cousin’s friend that his girlfriend met in college six years ago. But you’ll be glad that you can be the one to help and you’ll surely get rewarded for your efforts somewhere down the line. When you’re willing to give someone in need the shirt of your back – even if it’s Armani; you are on your way to full Italian.
“Here, take mine. I’ll get another one”
8. YOU ACCELERATE WHEN YOU SHOULD BRAKE
Everything you’ve seen, heard or read about Italian drivers is true. Little old ladies whisk past at 140 km per hour. Motorcycles weave dangerously into oncoming traffic. When you can safely and comfortably join the challenging dance that is played out on the winding Italian roads each day – you’ve become a native. Bonus points for any guy that can drive a Fiat 500 and still look like a typical Italian ladies man.
“Vai! Vai! Let’s go! Move it, buddy!”
9. YOUR FAVORITE PAIR OF SKINNY JEANS MAKE YOU LOOK LIKE A 90’s RAPPER
When you first moved to Italy, it’s highly likely that you bought some nice clothes so that you didn’t stick out too badly. You probably bought an expensive pair of jeans and even purchased a cut that is skinnier that you’re used to. Once you’ve lived in Italy long enough, you’ll think that “skinny” cut is so baggy you are not sure how you ever dared don those parachute pants in public (and that accounts for the extra 10 pasta pounds you’re sure to have gained). Italians wear their clothes very fitted, very tailored and very well. You’ll also discover that your fashion tastes in general have changed – a puffy winter coat? How could you have ever lived without one?!
Julia wouldn’t be caught dead without her puffy coat and skinny jeans
10. YOU THINK YOU’RE BERLUSCONI WHEN YOU PARK YOUR CAR
Italians drive fast and they drive aggressively. Parking is no different – forget circling around the block, looking for a spot. You can comfortably double or triple park your car and then casually stroll into your favorite coffee bar for an espresso. Airport run? Throw your parking brake on and walk in to wait for your arrival. It’s always amazing that everyone is so comfortable leaving his or her car parked illegally. If they do actually get a ticket – the issuing officer better not be nearby, lest they get an earful about having the audacity to ticket such a law-abiding citizen. When you can leave your car in the middle of a busy intersection with less stress than boiling an egg – you’ve definitely gone… full Italian.
“What sign?! I never saw a sign!”
So there you have it – ten telltale signs that you’ve “gone full Italian”. Have you developed some or all of these habits (whether intentional or not)? If the answer is “yes” – then pull out the grappa and make sure your meal is properly digested… you are an Italian. If not, stay a little longer – it’s only a matter of time.
“It’s the most wonderful time of the year”… and that means so many things! It means snow flakes and Christmas lights. It means cold weather and hot chocolate. It means Santa Claus and stockings stuffed with goodies. When you live in Europe, it also means tremendous Christmas markets and delicious vin brulè (cooked wine, usually sold on the streets). Over the past couple weeks, we have been taking advantage of it all! Because Christmas is only four days away – I will spend the next four days posting about our Christmas fun. In order to do that, I have to bend my “unbreakable rule” and publish blog posts out of order. I’ll fast-forward to Christmas and then flash back to some exciting posts that I have in the pipeline.
Oh bej! Oh bej! No, you don’t have to say “gesundheit”! I didn’t sneeze. That is the name of a festival held each year in Milan, spanning from December 7th through the following Sunday. How did it get that wonderful name, you ask? “Oh bej! Oh bej!” means, “oh so nice! Oh so nice!” in the Milanese dialect. It is by far, the most important Christmas festival held in Milan. December 7th is the day of the Patron Saint of Milano, Santo Ambrogio. The festival is said to date back all the way to 1510.
Vendors line the streets during Oh Bej! Oh Bej!
We arrived in Milan early and parked far outside of the central zone. You would think that living just outside of Milan for nearly a year would make me an expert driving in the city. It’s quite the opposite, in fact. I’m even more gun-shy now than I was when I first moved here. Driving through limited zones and parking in residential areas has cost me hundreds of euros in fines. So this time, I didn’t chance it – we parked in a garage outside the central zone and hoofed it just over a mile. The brisk winter weather was cold on our faces, but the fresh air and excitement of the day filled us with an energetic warmth.
Our first stop was the Basilica of Sant’Ambrogio, the basilica commissioned by and named after Milan’s Patron Saint. Construction of the basilica began in 379, making it among the oldest and most significant churches in Milan. Since we were in the city on the actual day of Sant’Ambrogio, there was a large service being held in the basilica.
Basilica Sant’Ambrogio named for Milan’s Patron Saint, Santo Ambrogio
There was a large church service being held, even though it was a Saturday
Next, it was time for us to see the festival and enjoy some of my favorite things – vendor food and vin brulè! In the center of the city stands the Sforza Castle, a medieval fortification built in the 15th century. Here in the 21st century, the fortification plays host to hundreds of vendors that encircle the great castle walls. Over 400 vendors vie for the attention of shoppers looking for food, crafts, Christmas ornaments, books and so much more. We got a couple wonderful pannini (sandwiches) and jockeyed for a spot to enjoy them. After lunch and some shopping, we walked through the gates of the castle and explored the courtyard.
Over 400 vendors flanked the ancient castle walls
The best roasted chestnuts come from the back of trucks
There were literally dozens of stands with delicious Sicilian treats
A stand full of artisanal goods
I picked us up a couple sandwiches – porchetta and salamelle
Salamelle panino
After her first bite, Julia decided she didn’t want to share – I couldn’t blame her
A fountain sprays in front of Sforza Castle
We went inside to explore the courtyard
Jen holds Julia tight in a crowd full of people
When we had our fill of the market, we strolled down Via dei Mercanti toward the Duomo. No trip to Milan would be complete without seeing one of the most amazing architectural examples of our age. The Duomo is particularly special during Christmas time. Ablaze with sparkling lights and framed behind a giant Christmas tree, you can’t help but become filled with Christmas spirit.
Duomo di Milano
The festival just whet our appetites for all the Christmas fun that we would enjoy. I hope that I’ve been able to do the same for you. We still have so much left to explore together, including the Christmas markets of Switzerland and a tour of some of Italy’s “best towns for Christmas.” Plus, I got an early present… I hope that you’ll help me unwrap it. I’ll give you a hint – it’s got four wheels, two doors and 572 horsepower! Grab a warm cup of vin brulè and get comfy (oh yeah, we’ll give you a recipe for that too) – we’ve still got a lot of exploring Christmas time in Europe left to do.
Can you believe that they don’t celebrate Thanksgiving here in Italy?! They also don’t celebrate the Fourth of July, Memorial Day or Labor Day! I know weird, right?!
Our Thanksgiving table is set
Thanksgiving is one of my favorite holidays. Of course I love the spirit of Christmas, the fun costumes of Halloween (another holiday that they don’t really celebrate), the fireworks of our Independence Day… but nothing can match the guilt-free ability to gorge on delicious food all…day…long! And if that wasn’t good enough, you are then permitted… nah, encouraged to lay on your duff and watch football until it’s time to re-heat a plate of leftovers.
Julia was Superwoman for Halloween this year –
even though she was one of few kids dressed up
We knew that we weren’t going to give up our tradition of Thanksgiving just because we are living in another country. In fact, we were excited to share our holiday and traditions with Jen’s relatives. Ideally, we would have eaten our Thanksgiving dinner along with the other people in America (well, six hours ahead anyway) – but we will be out of town during the holiday. So we decided to host our Thanksgiving dinner early. Before we could take our first bite of that delicious dinner, we needed to plan a menu. And if you’ve ever been around my wife when she plans an event… if we have an official menu, then we’ll also need an official outline for the entire week leading up to the event.
I had many small jobs, but the most important – procurement of the bird and selecting the wine. For the turkey, I went to our local macelleria (butcher shop), Macelleria Ostinelli. You see, you cannot just go down to the supermarket and pick up a whole turkey. It simply doesn’t exist here. Italians eat turkey, but they are either quartered or filleted – never sold whole. In fact our macellaio (butcher), Marco had to call his “turkey guy”, Lorenzo just to confirm that they could even have a whole turkey delivered within three days. It was the first whole turkey Marco had ever sold in 20+ years of being a butcher. We got the green light from Lorenzo and went home to continue planning.
Inside Macelleria Ostinelli
Our macellaio (butcher), Marco prepares our turkey
His son, Paolo and niece, Francesca
“Cook me like one of your French turkeys, Jack”
The turkey was so fresh that it was still red… and needed a few extra feathers plucked
The wine was a much more complicated process. I went into a wine shop I’ve been wanting to try; one just outside of downtown Como. The selections of fine Italian wine seemed endless. I chose three wines that are classified as Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG), a designation that connotes some of Italy’s best-known and highest quality wine.
A trio of wine from all over Italy
I opted to start our meal with a Barbaresco (having recently come back from Piemonte). I picked a 2003 Vigneto Loreto from Albino Rocca – a producer that obtains their [nebbiolo] grapes from the finest area in the region. I thought that the balanced flavor profile of this Barbaresco would do nicely to awaken our palates.
2003 Barbaresco Abino Rocca, Vigneto Loreto
For our second wine, I selected a 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. Tuscany is known for many things and their wine is nothing short of spectacular. Agostina Pieri produces a fine example of the wine that incorporates one of my favorite Italian grapes, Sangiovese. The bold flavors would serve as a nice progression from the more tannic and refined Barbaresco.
2008 Brunello di Montalcino Agostina Pieri
Finally, I wanted a wine to shout from the rooftops – so I chose a big, bold Amarone della Valpolicella. Jen and I were just recently introduced to this type of wine by my uncle, and it was love at first taste. A unique harvest and fermentation process yield a ripe, raisiny and full-bodied wine that jumps across your tongue and waltzes with your tastebuds. How could this not be the perfect wine to finish the afternoon?! Cantina di Soave produces a wonderful Amarone, Rocca Alata.
Amarone Cantina di Soave, Rocca Alata
The night before our guests arrive, I helped Jen set the table. Well, I mainly played defense against Julia while Jen set the table. I let her get a goal past me the next day when she ripped up part of the bouquet just before our guests arrived!
Jen’s table
We used seasonal flowers as part of the decoration
A place setting
A napkin before it got messy with delicious food
Center bouquet
Julia got to the other bouquet – I love her look as if to say, “I didn’t do it”
Jen had perfectly timed the turkey to come out and rest next to all of our antipasti. I am willing to bet that we hosted one of the few thanksgiving dinners in the world to start with olives, grissini (Italian breadsticks), salami and parmigiano. Our 7.4 kg (16.3 lb) turkey was quite the showstopper as Jen’s Italian relatives walked in. It was one of the first times ever that I have seen Italians take out their cell phones to take pictures of food. For them, food should be eaten – not photographed (I’ve been called, pazzo more than once). So it was quite a reward for all our hard work to see jaws dropped and cell phones flashing.
Our welcome table
The turkey came out moist and delicious
36-month aged Parmesano cheese and olives
Speck and salami
Grissini
Let’s get the party started
Let’s get the wine decanted…
This is going to be good
After proscecco and antipasti, we each took turns taking family photos on the balcony. I’m glad that Jen suggested this – it gave each family a nice keepsake from a pleasant afternoon.
My girls
Love this peanut
Gianni and Giusi along with their son Marco and daughter Sara
Massimo and Alessandra with their daughter Bea
You know this cast – Greg and Jen with our daughter, Julia
Franco and Claudia – Franco actually smiles for a photo!!
We eventually made our way to the table for our first course, a squash soup with parmesano croutons.
Now we’re ready to really dig in
A drizzle of fine olive oil enhances the taste and presentation
Franco took a picture of the soup as well as the turkey – this was a first!
Next, we brought out all the food. We had the stuffing (I had to explain it as “cooked bread”). We had mashed the potatoes. We had the gravy – “questa è una salsa” (this is a sauce). Pouring a “sauce” over everything was definitely a foreign concept. Claudia made the vegetables – green beens and a ratatouille. And of course, we had the turkey. A roasted lemon sage turkey that was delicious. I explained that the goal was to cram your plate so full that none of the plate was visible. Jen’s cousins Gianni and Marco understood the goal… no one else quite got it. We went around the table to say what we were most thankful for and dug in.
A plate of the carved turkey
Claudia’s vegetables
Jen’s stuffing
My plate – a proper American Thanksgiving plate
Franco’s plate – he didn’t quite get the idea to cover it
Alessandra plays around with Bea, who has likely never seen a turkey leg
Gianni brought a delicious wine that we opened
We never even finished my selections
When we had finally finished eating our dinner, it was time for dessert. Jen made a wonderfully American apple pie. Her cousins Alessandra and Giusi were surprised when she told them that she made her own pie crust from scratch. When they tasted it, they both immediately asked for the recipe (which secretly filled me with pride for my wife). Giusi was so cute, she literally took out a notepad, ready to write – Jen had to promise to work on the measurement conversions and translation and email it at a later date. Equally as impressive was the torte (pie) that Alessandra made. Jen’s birthday had just passed and so she added a surprise element to the dessert. It tasted every bit as good as it looked.
Jen’s apple pie
Alessandra’s torte
I have to say – Jen’s first Thanksgiving Dinner was A-M-A-Z-I-N-G!! There were no hiccups, very little stress and it was absolutely delicious!
Of course, we finished the day off with grappa and whiskey and the most important part of Thanksgiving… a game of football on the television. Only, it wasn’t a game. It was a match. And it wasn’t football. It was fùtbol (soccer). Oh well, you work with what you’ve got.
Our grappa and whiskey
Teenaged girls are the same in any country
Julia puts on a performance
Jen did Sara’s hair – I thought she looked beautiful
Soccer plays on the TV – not quite the football game I’m used to after a Thanksgiving dinner
I hope you enjoyed!
In case you’re interested in viewing the menu that Jen created, I copied and pasted her menu (and then, without her permission… her outline)! Shhhh, don’t tell.
Living in Italy grants us access to a lot of great restaurants. We fully take advantage of that and eat at… a lot of great restaurants. I recently read that 75% of the food in Italy is great and 25% of the food is exceptional. I would agree with that – most meals leave you feeling completely satisfied and pleased with the overall experience. But occasionally, you’ll find yourself “mmm’ing” and “aahhh’ing” with more delight than you intended to express aloud.
We can usually spot these exceptional places before we’ve walked in the door. We may have heard about the joint from a friend or relative. It’s possible I’ve read about it on the internet or a travel book. Or sometimes, we just walk into a place and the intense amount of “old-world charm” smacks us in the face. We’re greeted by a little nonna (grandma) who then scurries to the back to cook our meal – and we just know that we are in for a treat. Since it is usually one of those three paths that lead to our exceptional meals, I had all but dismissed, Osteria da Clo’ Filomena when we made our reservation. The reason for the swift dismissal, you ask? Well, the restaurant was in our B&B, in a remote part of Emilia-Romagna, surrounded by nothing by small villages and towns. I’m usually quick to dismiss restaurants in hotels anyway, with a few exceptions. Furthermore, the place was empty. I wasn’t surprised, because it would probably be a 20-30 minute drive for most patrons to arrive. I assumed that the restaurant was in place, merely to service the guests of the hotel and therefore had to serve mediocre food (which, if you remember still falls into the 80% “great” category).
The Osteria at night – the outdoor patio is used in the spring
The ristorante opened in 1954
I am happy to say that I have never been so wrong! And we weren’t the only ones in on the secret – by the time we left, the place was nearly full. People had been coming in from [presumably] all over – from towns and villages several miles away. The waiters, two young men (I regret not getting their names) were very helpful and pleasant. Our server spoke fluent English, but indulged me and kept the conversation in Italian until I really needed the help on a word or two.
Our group decided that we would order several dishes and that we would be generous with each other when it came time to share. There were too many things to taste to keep each dish all to ourselves. Our group? Four weary travelers (and a baby past her bedtime), comprised of myself and Jen as well as my aunt Deborah and uncle S, visiting from the States (read about their trip HERE and HERE).
Antipasti
For the antipasti (appetizer), each couple elected to order the:
Creme Brulè ai Quattro Formaggi con Porcini e Balsamico
Four Cheese Creme Brulè with Porcini Mushrooms and Balsamic Vinegar
This dish was so tasty, we asked what the four cheeses were so that we could attempt to recreate it at home
Primi Piatti
For our primo (first course), each couple shared a pasta:
Tagliatelle ai Fungi Porcini (S and Deborah)
Tagliatelle Pasta with Porcini Mushrooms
Dishes with porcini mushrooms were among the restaurant’s specialties
Tagliatelle al Ragù alla Bolognese (Greg and Jen)
Tagliatelle Pasta with a Meat Ragù
Jen and I like to try classic examples of Bolognese – it is a dish that has subtle changes across various regions of Italy
Secondi Piatti Tipici
For our secondo (main course), each couple shared once again:
Spezzatino Rosso di Cinghiale con Tigelle (S and Deborah)
Red Stew of Boar with Tigelle Tigelle is a bread that looks like a small pancake, local to the region
Grigliata Mista di Maiale (Greg and Jen)
Mixed Grill of Pork
This is a fairly common dish throughout Italy, but this was superior to most – perfectly seasoned and tender
Contorni
For our side dishes we selected:
Funghi Porcini Grigliata (a seasonal dish)
Grilled Porcini Mushrooms
This dish is only served during “mushroom season” (September, October, November)
Verdure alla Griglia
Grilled Vegetables
A simple and healthy selection from the grill
Dolce
For me, dessert is usually the weakest part of the meal – I was proved wrong once again. I had to tell myself over and over that it was impolite to pick my plate and lick the remaining chocolate residue. We all shared:
Creme Brulè
Creme Brulè
As delicious as it looks
Torta al Cioccolato di Lave
Chocolate “Lava” Cake
Jen had to restrain me from licking the plate
Torta di Pistacchio
Pistachio Cake
I’m not a huge pistachio fan, so it came as no surprise that this was my least favorite of the trio
We were fortunate to have found, Osteria da Clo’ Filomena as a byproduct of first discovering the hotel in which we were staying, La Locanda Gli Ulivi. From what I could gather, the restaurant was established first, in 1954 – and is still the main draw on the property. The hotel is a charming B&B, set just far enough away from Modena and Bologna that you can’t help but become immersed in the nature and hills of vineyards.
The rolling vineyards behind Osteria da Clo’ Filomena
In the summer, a small waterfall cascades on the patio as diners eat under a setting sun and in the winter the fireplace is always glowing – warming the patrons next to the chestnut wood tables. If you stay at the hotel, you can expect a breakfast as delicious as the one pictured below.
Eggs, made to order
Perfectly cooked with delicious pancetta
Cappuccino con doppio espresso (cappuccino with double espresso)
Next time you’re in Emilia-Romanga, stop by and have a meal. Be sure to tell everyone that we said, “ciao!”
Jennifer, Julia and I had a wonderful time when my Uncle S and Aunt Deborah came to visit us this past March. That’s why we were thrilled when they mentioned that they would like to come back to Italy again this fall. They wanted to do a bit of traveling and invited us to join them on their adventures, using our condo in Como as a “home base”. They had sketched a rough itinerary and just wanted a little help filling in the blanks – assistance I was happy to give. They knew that they wanted to spend some time with us here in Como, some time in Piemonte and Emilia-Romagna (two regions adjacent to our region of Lombardia) as well as a quick jaunt down to the historically significant city of Pompeii and another to Venezia.
S and Deborah standing near the divide of Lake Como
Jen and I share the responsibility of planning our trips – researching restaurants, activities and hotels. But they’re usually in three or four day stints and one location at a time. This time, I had to navigate through a two week itinerary, complete with activities, restaurants, hotel stays and all at new locations each day. Putting the puzzle pieces of their trip together was a challenge not for the faint of heart. Jen and I dug in, and by the time S and Deb landed in Milan, we had an itinerary that we were both proud of. I think all of us agreed that it came together quite nicely. Of course, the key ingredient was the company, mixed with a little food and wine!
I manned the grill for a family feast on their second night. I’ll get Franco to smile for one of these pictures, yet…
S enjoys a little grappa after our meal
S gives us a thumbs up as he displays our first two days worth of “work”
We divided the trip into the three things that Italy is best known for. Part I was wine. Part II was food. And part III was history. Jen and I accompanied S and Deb for parts I and II (our personal favorites) and let them venture off on their own for part III. This clean break in adventures divided the trip quite nicely and will also allow me to easily organize these blog posts into two parts. Easy breezy, vino-squeezy. However, before we hit the open road, we spent a day here on Lake Como in one of our favorite towns – Bellagio (if you’ve been reading this blog for a little while, you’ve seen us here many times before). The unique beauty of the town is like nothing else on the world.
The weather was absolutely beautiful the day we drove to Bellagio
I teach my uncle how to take a “selfie” (after explaining what a “selfie” was)
Bellagio from above – a unique vantage point. Bellagio divides Lake Como into the two “legs”
Jen and I pose for a picture
S and I take a picture together
My two girls
Bellagio is a beautiful town at the center of Lake Como
A boat rests after bringing passengers from another lake town
“Hey… I think I’ll make this my profile pic”
Jen and S stand near the wine bar where we had lunch
The Italian flag blows in the wind alongside the European flag
Piemonte (Piedmont) is a region in northwest Italy that borders France to the west and [our region of] Lombardia to the east. The capital city of Piemonte is Torino, which was once the capital of all of Italy and the springboard for the unification of the country. Of the twenty regions in Italy that each produce wine, Piemonte is probably the most well-renowned for their vintages. The rolling hills and mild climate result in some of the world’s best wine – the Barolos and Barbarescos produced here are often the prize jewels of wine cellars the world over. These wines, made primarily from the nebbiolo grape age very well, and in fact improve and develop richer and more powerful flavors as the decades pass. It was easy that to recognize that this portion of our trip was going to be entitled simply, Vino (wine).
The rolling hills of Piemonte are a perfect place to grow grapes
They look delicious now… just wait until they are turned into a Barolo or Barbaresco
S stands in front of a field of grape vines early in the morning
A father and his son load grapes onto a flatbed during their harvest
The finished product of our five nights together in the condo – wine was definitely a theme central to their visit
We spent the first day of our road trip in the small village of Barolo. During our drive to Barolo, S imparted some of his knowledge about the famous wine, which I’ll now share with you. Historically, Barolo wines were very rich on tannin and therefore could require as many as ten years to soften enough to drink. The long fermenting time and aging process in large, wooden barrels causes this complexity in the wine. The problem with this method is that it is very time-consuming and therefore expensive. A newer breed of producers have cut the fermenting time by as much as 2/3 and age the wine in smaller, French oak barrels. This allows the consumer to drink the wine much earlier and appeals more to the more modern, international palate (it creates a fruitier wine). As an aside, the more modern palates that prefer “big”, fruitier wines is often attributed to world-famous wine critic, Robert Parker (often referred to as the “Parkerization” of wine). The differing styles in Barolo has created a controversy between “old” and “new” – a conflict often referred to as the, Barolo Wars.
Castello di Barolo stands proudly overtop the town with the same name
I ♥ Barolo!
After a wonderful lunch at Osteria Cantinella, I had pre-arranged for a tour and wine-tasting at Marchesi di Barolo. This particular cantina boasts a very genuine and interesting history (I encourage you to click on the link and visit their website). It was explained to us that this particular winery was where Barolo itself was born – we even saw the original cask that was home the world’s first Barolo over 200 years ago. Our tour began in one of the cantina’s vast rooms where they were aging wine in botte di vino (wine casks). These barrels were made from oak from several countries. S and Deb saw some of the barrels were made by an American cooper (barrel maker) they know in Napa Valley. Small world! We next moved into the Marchesi’s private family cellar, where an impressive collection of wines rendered us all speechless. As we descended down into the heart of the cantina, we saw the juice of fresh “crush” flowing though long winding hoses, attached to the floor above where tractors were dumping the grape fresh from the “harvest”. This was exciting for all of us, knowing that we played a small part in the 2014 vintage (primarily by not tripping over the hoses and spilling the precious nectar on the floor). After the tour, we enjoyed a tasting of some of their finer wines – a wonderful way to casually spend the afternoon.
We merely had to follow the signs to reach our restaurant
Our group is eager to dine at Osteria Cantinella
S and Deborah stand just outside Cantine dei Marchesi di Barolo
Jen and I take a picture here as well
Tractors were coming in out along with us, bringing grapes fresh from harvest
A display in the interior courtyard shows an old fashioned way to transport the wine from town to town
Julia also doubles as an expert Truffle Farmer
We smile in front of the old fashioned barrels and wagon
French oak botte in the first room we visited
Julia and I listen to our tour guide
Barolo can age in the bottle for many years, most Barolo shouldn’t even be opened for at least 10 years
Going into the personal cellar of the family… quite the collection
Some of the much older bottles are on display – these are no longer for drinking (hence the vertical position)
The oldest bottle in the cellar is from 1859 (not drinkable) and the oldest that is still drinkable is from 1938
A private tasting area
Some of these large barrels date back as far as the 1950’s
Downstairs the juice from the crush flow into these large steel vats through long hoses
These large barrels are made by hand and are very expensive
A basket that was once used for the harvest many years ago is now used as decoration
Tractors dump the grapes they collected at harvest into a machine that crushes them
Our guide showcases one of the bottles that we would be tasting – this a Barbaresco
Deborah and Julia start a dance party
But we weren’t done – we still had another tasting on the books. We next went to Borgogno – a producer of fine wine since 1761. We opted for the more comprehensive vertical flight, consisting of six different wines. I cannot accurately describe to you the pure bliss one can discover whilst sipping on some of the worlds best wines, with fun people who’s company you really enjoy and basking in the glory of a napping baby. We tried our best to “play it cool” but I think perhaps got a little rowdier than we even realized. You have to give us a break, we had each had several glasses of wine at this point. Between me and S (mainly, S) – we bought so much wine that they included two of the four tastings and threw in canvas bags, custom wood cases and bottle openers. If you find yourself in Barolo – duplicate our exact schedule of eating and drinking – it was an amazing day.
We walk through Barolo on our way to Borgogno (the tall white building)
One of their old trucks now sits on display in the cantina
A wonderful place to taste wine, surrounded by all the amazing bottles that can be acquired with the simple swipe of a card
S and Deborah share a laugh
Jen explains what a “selfie” is and shows her how to do it
I wouldn’t call Deborah’s first attempt “successful”
“Here, let a pro show you how it’s done”
Deborah’s second attempt was much better – I think she’s nailed the “selfie”
For 83 years, Alba has been host to the Fiera Internazionale del Tartuf Bianco d’Alba (International White Truffle Fair of Alba). This year, the festival is open for five weeks, from the 12th of October until the 17th of November, spanning across the entire city. There are hundreds of events (including a donkey race, music concerts and food & wine tastings), vendors set up in markets throughout the city, celebrity chefs dropping in all over town, cooking demonstrations and of course – thousands upon thousands of truffles. Admittedly, we were undertaking a “food” related activity in the “wine” portion of our trip – but we have learned that nothing pairs with the worlds most exquisite wine better than one of the world’s most elusive and desirable food items.
Last year’s poster for the event
S gets close the grapes of a small producer selling his wine
Some black truffles displayed for sale
It is the season for truffles as well as mushrooms – there were some fine examples for sale
A cheese vendor showcases his various goat, cow and sheep cheese
This artisan hand crafts items out of olive wood – Deborah got several spoons
Deborah laughs as S takes a picture of the window display at a pasticceria (pastry shop)
Family photo in one of the markets
The city is flooded with thousands of visitors each day during the month-long event
Like many of the world’s finer foods, a truffle may seem strange to many people (caviar = fish eggs, foie gras = goose liver, etc.). A truffle is in fact, a fungus – but nonetheless, affectionately referred to by many as the diamond of the kitchen. It is no wonder that this event is considered the Sundance Film Festival of the culinary world. The likes of Mario Batali, Joe Bastianich and dozens of other celebrity chefs make appearances each year. Lesser known restaurateurs can be seen in the main truffle tent, intently smelling every single truffle and purchasing thousands of euro’s worth of this little, spongy item. They will use the ingredient in various recipes (soups, stews, meat dishes and anything else their creative minds can concoct), but primarily – they will shave the truffles over pasta, table-side.
A collection of white truffles in the front – black truffles are in the background
Truffles are small, hard to acquire and require the perfect soil conditions to achieve a proper balance. Italy is regarded as the foremost area for the natural cultivation of truffles (and the ultra-elusive “white truffle” grows in the Langhe area, specifically Alba as well as Tuscany and Abruzzo). As popularity and demand has increased, other countries have tried to cultivate white truffles (including Slovenia, Croatia and now even China). It is commonly accepted that these areas produce a lesser-quality truffle. One of the benefits of purchasing your truffles within the main enclosed tent at the festival is that you are guaranteed a certified, locally cultivated truffle. Many of the merchants selling their truffles were the actual farmers themselves. Today, farmers mainly use Truffle Dogs to sniff out the truffles. Historically, Truffle Pigs were used (because of their acute sense of smell and innate ability to find truffles) – but their love of the delectable treat often had them eating the merchandise before the farmers could snatch them from their snouts. The Truffle Dogs have to be trained to find the goods, but are much easier to control. We sniffed out some of our own truffles and plunked down €50 to acquire two small truffles and a truffle shaver.
White truffles for sale – they are not cheap!
Deborah catches the scent of a beautiful specimen – that truffle probably cost around €300 ($400)
I give the truffle a smell as well
This guy really knows how to do it and shows us – it’s all in the wrist and perfectly timed nostril flare
We found this guy selling roasted chestnuts outside
After touring the markets, we had lunch at Ristorante Vigin Mudest
Ever heard anyone say, “this sauce is so good I could drink it”? Well, when S says it – he really means it
I became the “garbage disposal” of the group, finishing everyone’s plates (3 plates and a bowl)
Julia hugs her great aunt and uncle after lunch
Before we left Alba, Julia insisted on ripping her shoes and socks off
Our final stop in Piemonte was a visit to Asti, a city that has been occupied since the Neolithic Period and today boasts a population of about 75,000 inhabitants. Unfortunately, we caught the city on a Monday… during lunchtime. This meant that virtually every museum, shop and attraction was closed. We ate a makeshift lunch of pizza and flatbread on park benches before heading for home.
Julia built a throne of her own from some firewood at our agriturismo
Cattedrale di Asti (Cathedral of Asti) dates to 1309
Ruins of an ancient tower that had been built into a more modern home
A couple days later, we took our prized truffles out of the refrigerator and cooked tagliatelle con olio with shaved truffle. It was a delicious lunch that nearly put us in a content, comatose state – a good way to tease our pallets for Part II of the trip. We would depart the next morning for Emilia-Romanga. If Part I was entitled Vino, then Part II of their trip would definitely be called Cibo (food).
This is what €50 ($68) worth of truffles looks like
I shave the white truffle on my pasta
Jen takes her turn
Deborah is happy to shave her truffles
S looks great when he’s shaving truffles
Now that looks great!
It tasted great too
Even Julia got to try some truffles
We visited Varenna after our truffle lunch
That night we all went to dinner at Ristorante Simposio to celebrate Claudia’s birthday – still can’t get Franco to smile
