Jennifer and I simply love outdoor markets. Jen holds on to the belief that she’s going to stumble across a vintage Louis Vuitton handbag or uncover that perfect piece for our future living room. I’ve got much lower (and more realistic expectations); I’m just thrilled that I get to eat “street food”. Nothing is better than a porchetta paninio (pork sandwich) from a food vendor with freshly fried zeppole(Italian donuts) for dessert. I love sandwiches, I love eating outside and I love feeding my entire family for less than €20!
Pack your bags, let’s check out the market!All of us at the Mercatone dell’Antiquariato
Jen has been trying to get to the Mercatone dell’Antiquariato del Naviglio Grande since we moved here nearly a year and a half ago. “What’s the big deal – why is it so hard to make it to a market”, you ask? Well, this particular market only takes place on the last Sunday of each month (except for July). For those of you that aren’t math wizards, that’s just eleven chances a year to make it to Milan for this 80-year-old Milanese tradition. Our first attempt was foiled – we set out one day in January of 2013, but got derailed when we couldn’t find parking. It was ambitious of me to try so soon after moving to Italy – had I known then what I know now, I would have just thrown my car on the curb like the hundreds of other locals. Instead, we stopped for lunch and found an amazing sandwich place, which I blogged about HERE. After lunch, we lost the motivation to go back and agreed, “we’ll try again as soon as we get the next opportunity”. Well, travel and other obligations delayed that opportunity fifteen more months.
Jen’s sister Jessica along with Jen and JuliaMatt and JessicaAnother family photo along the Alzaia Naviglio Grande
We had been casually referring to the market as “Milan’s Antique Market”. Certainly, there is some truth in referring to the Mercatone dell’Antiquariato as an antique market, but perhaps flea market is a more apt description. The products sold range from old shoes to mid-century furniture. You can acquisition antique coffee makers or art by local artists. The best part about paying a visit to this unique bazaar is that you’ll never know what you need until you find it.
Tables full of treasureSome old photography equipmentLoved this old record playerJust in case you need some new framesThe stores also sell antiques – here is a classic espresso maker once used in a coffee bar
Roughly 380 vendors wind their way up Alzaia Naviglio Grande, placing their backs to the canal. This trendy neighborhood in Milan features many cafes and bars that call to the younger, artistic crowd. Jen and I had been hoping to get away from the centro (center) of Milan and visit this particular area for some time. Well, two birds… as they say. As lunch time approached, we picked a great pizzeria in a former factory – the space was as great as the food. If you find yourself in Milan near the last weekend of the month, be sure to carve out some time for the Mercatone dell’Antiquariato.
Vendors display along the canalThe neighborhood is full of artists and street art
INFORMATION
WHAT » Mercatone dell’Antiquariato del Naviglio Grande
WHEN » Last Sunday of every month (except July)
WHERE » Milan
ADDRESS » Strada Alzaia Naviglio Grande, via Valenza, South TRANSPORT » Metro Porta Genova/bus 59, 74, 169 Tram 2, 3, 9, 14, 15, 29, 30
Who doesn’t love a good festival? The combination of food, games and fun in an outdoor setting is always guaranteed to be a success. I mean, what more could you ask for? But if the name of the festival is Primavera dei Vini (Wine in the Springtime) and the location is in the remote Italian countryside – then you’ve got all the ingredients you need and more!
Vineyards of Rovescala along our drive into townThe farmers have been producing Bonarda wine for over 800 years
If you check Wikipedia to learn about Rovescala, you will discover that this small commune (municipality) is located about 50km southeast of Milan. Aaaaand… basta (stop). That’s it. If you research the festival itself, you’re likely to uncover only two or three short blog posts about it, aaaaaand… basta! So this event is a relatively unknown festival in a small, remote Italian town – why on earth would anyone be interested in going?! Because it’s a relatively unknown festival in a small and remote Italian town, of course! In our experience, these are usually the best gatherings – genuine and unpretentious, just as it should be in Italy.
I was loving the group of Harley riders that rolled into townOf course, what Italian festival is complete with a collection of Vespa’s?!
Jen and Julia in Rovescala
Every Sunday in March, the residents of Rovescala pull together for the festival meant to celebrate the approaching spring with open air markets, parades, music and games. Of course, what Italian festival would be complete without food and wine as the central theme to the day? With the largest two spaces in town dedicated to either food or wine, you are guaranteed that something delicious will pass your palate. They also had plenty to do for the kids.
They had a face painter for the kids, free of charge – she wouldn’t even take a tipOf course, Julia wanted to be a tigerShe proved how scary she was with a growl and scratch with her clawJen and her baby tiger
I couldn’t uncover a specific reason for the festival, which is close to approaching its 30th year (many such events are held in the honor of a specific saint or battle or historical element). It is my suspicion that the collections of farmers producing a wonderful and relatively unknown wine worked with the local comune (municipal office) to promote their regional product and boost tourism. While the festival does not pull a large contingent of international visitors, each Sunday in March the town swells to capacity with other Italians living nearby.
The town fills up each Sunday in March
Like so many things Italian, the hills surrounding Rovescala are rooted in a tradition that stretches back over eight centuries. The grapes grown for the production of the local Bonarda wines are of a seldom seen variety; the Croatina grape, which is then typically blended with the Barbera grape to make the wine. You won’t discover a finer example of Bonarda wine (not to be confused with the Bonarda Piemontese vine) then you will here in the foothills of the Apennines mountains in our hometown region of Lombardia (Lombardy). This wine website describes the grape,
The mid- to late-ripening grape delivers wines with dark color, gushing fruit, low acidity and soft tannins, often resembling montepulciano or dolcetto in expression.
Before we could get to all the wine tasting, we wanted to fill our stomachs with some food. We discovered that the main pavilion had open table dining, where “neighbors” become friends. In fact, our neighbors were happy to share some of their frog legs with both me and Julia when I asked about them. To say the dining was “organized chaos” is an understatement. But the delicious food, fun neighbors, guitar player and cheap wine (I got a full glass for €1) more than made up for it! The authenticity of the experience was definitely one of these “this is why we moved to Italy” moments.
Inside the pavilion for food – good luck finding a table, we waited about 20 minutes for spaceWe were thrilled when we finally claimed our spotWe lucked out with some great neighbors who were a lot of funIt was great listening to this guy playing and singing at the next table
After lunch, we strolled past the outdoor vendors displaying their hand crafted goods – anything from homemade grappa to artisanal wooden bowls. We made our way to the main hall where the farmers were eager to showcase their wines. A modest €5 bought me an empty wine glass complete with a nifty case that allowed me to dangle the container from my neck (you know, in case I needed both hands to have a conversation like a true Italian – picture a lot of hand gestures). We befriended, Alessandro Dellafiore – the President of the Pro Loco Rovescala a local organization designed to promote local products. He explained that as long as I didn’t leave the building, I could re-fill my glass any number of times and try as many different wines as my little heart desired. “Jen, buckle up and get comfortable – we’re going to be here a while!“
Merchants sold all type of hand crafted goodsInside the wine hall Alessandro gave Julia a wine necklace so she could join in the funJulia carefully helps me select my favorite wine
After I had enough liquid courage, I decided that I needed to demonstrate my manliness. I can think of no better way to peacock than to climb a telephone pole in order to slap a leg of prosciutto! I was in luck, as that option was readily available to the brave few willing to try. I waited and watched a half a dozen guys and gals try and fail to reach the top. While I was in line, a kid roughly fifteen years old made it to the top. His effort was rewarded with a bottle of wine. I grinned in admiration of the culture that rewards their youth with a bottle of wine. When it was my turn, I strutted to the pole as if I was Michael Jordan saddling up to the free throw line. I knew it would be no problem to practically fly to the top. That is, until I made my first upward thrust and realized my dress shoes were a major detriment. I nearly slipped coming right out of the gate, but I recovered and found my grove. I made it to the top of the pole in record time and was the only person to receive a large cheer from the crowd and two bottles of wine for my speed (and a bit of showmanship). After I came down, I was pleased to have earned a big hug from Julia in addition to my liquid prize.
I get strapped in for my long climbIt may not have been graceful, but I was the fastest climber of the dayJulia cheers me on – just the encouragement I neededAt last! I made it to the top and slapped that prosciutto like I’ve never slapped a prosciutto before!Julia ran up and gave me a big hug – that was the best prizeOf course, a couple bottles of wine isn’t too shabby eitherJulia wanted to have a goShe did pretty well – she won a generous bag of candyHere we are showing off our prizesAfter the participants all volunteered, the pros took overThey made it look easy!
We wrapped the day with a little more walking and shopping (we went back to buy some wine as gifts and to add to our cellar). Julia stopped to take a seat and “chat” with some locals in front of their home – I suppose she wanted to practice the Italian art of dolce far niente (the sweetness of doing nothing). All in all – it was a fun day and well worth the time in the car.
Julia is an expert at “dolce far niente” (the sweetness of doing nothing)Our collection of “fair booty”
Most people visit Europe in the spring or summer. Of course, these are great times of year to see such a magical and historical place. But may I suggest to you a unique alternative?
Come in December, when the weather is at it’s coldest and the people are their warmest. When the cobblestone streets are strung with lights and the ancient buildings are trimmed with garland. Imagine your most magical place for the holidays – a winter wonderland, if you will. You will be sure to find something that fits your image here in Europe. There are amazing markets and festivals across the continent. Some countries boast cities that are particularly renowned for their holiday cheer. Finland, Germany and Austria are at the top of the list. Denmark and Switzerland are there as well. And of course, our personal favorite place to be for Christmas is right here in Italy. Before you plan your next Christmas vacation, add Europe into the running.
“Boy, Clark – I think we should go to Europe next year”
We had been toying with the idea of visiting another country to experience some of the large and festive Christmas markets (two of the top cities in the running were Cologne, Germany and Lapland, Finland). As we did more and more research, we kept noticing many towns in Italy topping the lists. We decided to stay close to home and shop in a language we know (well, sort of). Jen came across this article describing some of the best Christmas towns in the Trentino Alto-Adige region of Italy. One look at the photos of each town and I was sold. Beyond that, I was eager to explore this region of Italy for it’s unique wines and always breathtaking Dolomiti mountains. So I went to work on google maps and figured out that we could comfortably see five cities (with a bonus sixth on the return) over a period of three days. We would visit Vipiteno, Bressanone, Brunico, Bolzano and Merano with another full day reserved for the region’s capital city, Trento.
When I plotted our course, I literally sketched a rough map on a piece of scratch paper and realized that four of the five towns made a diamond shape. The fifth was sort of floating off to the right side, but for creative purposes – we’ll just stick to the “Five Diamond Christmas Tour”. It has a better ring than “Four Points & That Other One Tour”.
“Sounds great, dad – lets GO!”
We carefully chose our hotel, located just outside of Bolzano. What I didn’t pay much attention to was the name of the actual town, Soprabolzano (literally meaning, above Bolzano). ABOVE Bolzano it was. Our hotel sat roughly 4,100 ft above the town, which gave us two options. Drive up the winding and perilous mountain road or take the 15,000 ft cable car (gondola) ride. I opted to drive, even when the snow fell and the tailgaters lined up behind me.
The view from the road leading to our hotel
We were surprised to learn from Franco and Claudia (Jen’s aunt and uncle) that the area of Italy we were visiting was more Austrian than Italian. They couldn’t have been more correct. We definitely felt as though we were in Austria (which feels just like you’re in Germany). The houses are constructed with charming German architecture (picture gingerbread houses). The food served in the restaurants is German (picture sausages and sauerkraut). The people even spoke German instead of Italian! It was strange to experience, because we were in Italy – but it was also nice because it felt like a more unique “vacation” away from our normal lives. Funny, we were nervous to order pasta for the first time in Italy because we felt like it would be ordering pasta in Germany (something you would never do).
VIPITENO (Sterzing – German)
On the first day of our “Christmas Tour” we drove from our home directly to the northernmost town, Vipiteno. We arrived after lunch and took our time strolling through the market and the charming streets. We were eager to see the setting sun because we knew that meant the Christmas lights would soon be ablaze. We stopped for a vin brulé to warm up and sit for a bit. As opposed to going inside the restaurant, we instead opted to sit outside under the blankets they provided for their guests. It was cozy, fun and comforting. Eventually, we had to tear ourselves away from Vipiteno because we had one more stop on the schedule.
Julia is excited as we enter the market
Jen and Julia hugging
One of the stands, selling a variety of Christmas ornaments
Some beautiful ornaments
Julia sizes up a Befana (Italy’s Christmas Witch)
The charming town square
Another stand selling local specialties
More Christmas stands
My favorite little girl
The lights got a little brighter as it got a little darker
The main street was stunning with a beautiful mountainous backdrop
The main piazza
We stopped to warm up and enjoy some vin brulé
Julia warms her hands on mom’s cup
The sun officially sets
Vipiteno at night
The main square at night
Vipiteno was simply beautiful
BRESSANONE (Brixen)
I almost scratched Bressanone from the list – originally, I didn’t think I could fit all five towns and this was the one that I felt could be sacrificed. We were VERY glad that we kept it in the itinerary. This was arguably one of our favorite towns. We didn’t realize that it is the third largest and and oldest town in the province. Bressanone is absolutely full of charm. Beyond all the Christmas festivities, we enjoyed just walking around the city itself, although most everything had closed by the time we finished dinner.
One street leading to the main piazza
The market in the main piazza
The booths were different than the previous town
Julia rode the carousel in front of the main church
The most crowded and popular stands were always the ones selling vin brulè – they had an outdoor “bar” vibe
Holiday decorations
SAN CANDIDO (Innichen)
Did you catch it? San Candido was not listed as one of the five towns above. Franco and Claudia suggested that we add it to the voyage – they described the town as “piccolo ma bello” (small but beautiful). It was only a half an hour away and snuggled tightly in the Dolomites, so it was a no-brainer for me. They didn’t have nearly the amount of Christmas decorations as the originally planned towns, but it truly was “small but beautiful”. Plus, there are only a handful of towns in the world that are nestled in the Dolomite mountains, so it was certainly worth the extra drive.
Julia and I enter the charming town of San Candido
Our first snow of the season
Julia remembered how much she loved to eat it
Main street in the town
Jen and Julia in the main piazza
“Hey guys, wait for me!”
A small river runs through town
The Dolomites surround the town
Another town we passed on the way out
BRUNICO (Bruneck)
Our second stop of the second day was Brunico. We strolled through the markets and then through the city streets. It was a beautiful town, but the markets were small in comparison to the other towns – so we didn’t spend a tremendous amount of time here.
The market surrounded the outer wall of the main city street
They had some great stands with local food and crafts
As usual, the busiest stands were the ones serving the drinks
I just loved this outdoor sports store’s display
Jen and Julia in the center of Brunico
BOLZANO (Bozen)
We didn’t think that anything could top Bressanone, which we had seen the night before. We were wrong. We arrived in Bolzano after nightfall and our eyes opened wide as we walked into the center square. Of all the towns, this one had the biggest Christmas market by far. They had the most decorations. They had the best rides for kids (a toy train that Julia loved riding). In conclusion, one could say they had the most charm. Beyond the markets, we loved losing ourselves in the city streets, taking in the restaurants and the shops. We had a wonderful dinner and walked some more. It was the perfect end to a fun-filled day.
The markets and main church of Bolzano
Julia goes for a train ride on Santa’s sleigh
For a kid that’s always happy, I’ve never seen her this tickled
We stopped for a little vin brulé
Looks like the Russian hockey team also wanted a little vin brulé to warm up
They had a secret Christmas garden off the main piazza
Family photo in the garden
Vendors and crowds flanked the garden made out of Christmas trees, lights and ornaments
Julia floats through the trees
We just loved the garden
Big ornaments on this street were a nice surprise from the lights that are usually strung across
Angels glide across the rooftops
Sadly, our final day was marred by a heavy rain. Our final two stops, Merano and then Trento (two of the places we were most excited about) were unfortunately, scratched from our trip. We didn’t think it would be nearly as much fun to walk around in the rain. If you do decide to take my “Five Diamond Christmas Tour” – do as I say, not as I do. Stick to my original itinerary (Vipiteno, Bressanone, Brunico, Bolzano,Merano and then Trento) and be sure to check the weather forecast!
You may have recently read that our Christmas spirit was put into gear when we attended a Milanese festival early in December. We continued our drive toward Santa’s big day by slipping into second gear and crossing the border into neighboring Switzerland. Our Christmas spirit grew as we set out to enjoy one of the things we love most about Europe in December – the Christmas markets.
Christmas trees like this are in cities all over Europe – this is in the main piazza of Lugano, Switzerland
It just so happens that one of our favorite things about living in Italy is access to wonderful markets year round. In the spring and summer, we can stroll the markets to buy fresh vegetables and aged cheese. In the fall, we can purchase delicious homemade jams and carefully crafted grappa. However, the winter markets are undoubtedly our favorite. The backdrop is perfect – streets framed with Christmas lights. Good cheer around every turn. Wonderful food and beautiful artisanal goods at each stand. Beyond that, it is perfectly acceptable to walk around drinking the specialty drink of the season, vin brulé. This cooked wine is seasoned with sugar and spices – designed to warm your hands and belly as well as comfort your soul. No market visit on a cold December day would be complete without a cup (or two).
A few of the vendors set up in the piazza
Soon, I will feature one of our favorite towns to visit during Christmas – our very own Lake Como. Before we do that, I’ll showcase another lake town that we love – Lugano, Switzerland. The Swiss do a lot of things right. They’ve pretty much nailed watches, chocolate and banking. They have some of the worlds most beautiful lakes and best mountains. Beyond that, we have discovered that they play host to some of the world’s greatest Christmas markets.
You can just feel the Christmas spirit walking around
The always beautiful streets are enhanced with thousands of sparkling Christmas lights
Lugano is a beautiful city that sits along a lake with the same name, Lago di Lugano. In one of the world’s wealthy countries – Lugano stands out as one of it’s richest cities. The charming city and popular tourist destination recently garnered worldwide fame, brought on by America’s favorite mega star – Oprah Winfrey. You may recall a tale that spread like wildfire this past summer (well, it did here anyway). Oprah was shopping and asked to see a purse, but was refused because the the clerk (not knowing whom she was serving) told her in no uncertain terms that, “it was out of her price range“. Strange, I was told the same thing when I asked to see the very same purse!
Lights frame the arches of a building’s walkway
Julia and dad in front of the tree
We arrived in Lugano in the afternoon, but stayed long enough to watch the sun set over the mountains. The Christmas lights blazed bright and we felt the joy of the season deep in our cores. We strolled through the market and decided to enjoy a Swiss specialty – hot chocolate. In Italy and in Switzerland, the hot chocolate is very thick – almost syrupy. I’m not usually a fan, but there is a shop in the Lugano’s piazza that makes the drink perfectly (still thick, but not obscenely dense and chocked full of flavor). Of course, you know that you’re in Lugano when you pay roughly $8 for a cup of hot chocolate and another $3 for the extra whipped cream that your daughter insists on ordering.
The sun sets on the mountains behind the lake
The trees are trimmed back during the winter, but that doesn’t mean they can’t use a little seasonal festivity
Miss Julia
The thick hot chocolate of Switzerland
Julia sure seemed to enjoy it
A tight squeeze in the piazza
They don’t have your “mall Santa” here so we had to improvise. We had her tell this Santa what she wanted
We returned home to Italy full of Christmas spirit, eagerly discussing our upcoming tour of Italy’s best markets and towns for the holidays. But before we drove to the Trentino Alto-Adige region of Italy, I had an early present to unwrap. I had to practice my driving on one of Italy’s most renowned race tracks…
“It’s the most wonderful time of the year”… and that means so many things! It means snow flakes and Christmas lights. It means cold weather and hot chocolate. It means Santa Claus and stockings stuffed with goodies. When you live in Europe, it also means tremendous Christmas markets and delicious vin brulè (cooked wine, usually sold on the streets). Over the past couple weeks, we have been taking advantage of it all! Because Christmas is only four days away – I will spend the next four days posting about our Christmas fun. In order to do that, I have to bend my “unbreakable rule” and publish blog posts out of order. I’ll fast-forward to Christmas and then flash back to some exciting posts that I have in the pipeline.
Oh bej! Oh bej! No, you don’t have to say “gesundheit”! I didn’t sneeze. That is the name of a festival held each year in Milan, spanning from December 7th through the following Sunday. How did it get that wonderful name, you ask? “Oh bej! Oh bej!” means, “oh so nice! Oh so nice!” in the Milanese dialect. It is by far, the most important Christmas festival held in Milan. December 7th is the day of the Patron Saint of Milano, Santo Ambrogio. The festival is said to date back all the way to 1510.
Vendors line the streets during Oh Bej! Oh Bej!
We arrived in Milan early and parked far outside of the central zone. You would think that living just outside of Milan for nearly a year would make me an expert driving in the city. It’s quite the opposite, in fact. I’m even more gun-shy now than I was when I first moved here. Driving through limited zones and parking in residential areas has cost me hundreds of euros in fines. So this time, I didn’t chance it – we parked in a garage outside the central zone and hoofed it just over a mile. The brisk winter weather was cold on our faces, but the fresh air and excitement of the day filled us with an energetic warmth.
Our first stop was the Basilica of Sant’Ambrogio, the basilica commissioned by and named after Milan’s Patron Saint. Construction of the basilica began in 379, making it among the oldest and most significant churches in Milan. Since we were in the city on the actual day of Sant’Ambrogio, there was a large service being held in the basilica.
Basilica Sant’Ambrogio named for Milan’s Patron Saint, Santo Ambrogio
There was a large church service being held, even though it was a Saturday
Next, it was time for us to see the festival and enjoy some of my favorite things – vendor food and vin brulè! In the center of the city stands the Sforza Castle, a medieval fortification built in the 15th century. Here in the 21st century, the fortification plays host to hundreds of vendors that encircle the great castle walls. Over 400 vendors vie for the attention of shoppers looking for food, crafts, Christmas ornaments, books and so much more. We got a couple wonderful pannini (sandwiches) and jockeyed for a spot to enjoy them. After lunch and some shopping, we walked through the gates of the castle and explored the courtyard.
Over 400 vendors flanked the ancient castle walls
The best roasted chestnuts come from the back of trucks
There were literally dozens of stands with delicious Sicilian treats
A stand full of artisanal goods
I picked us up a couple sandwiches – porchetta and salamelle
Salamelle panino
After her first bite, Julia decided she didn’t want to share – I couldn’t blame her
A fountain sprays in front of Sforza Castle
We went inside to explore the courtyard
Jen holds Julia tight in a crowd full of people
When we had our fill of the market, we strolled down Via dei Mercanti toward the Duomo. No trip to Milan would be complete without seeing one of the most amazing architectural examples of our age. The Duomo is particularly special during Christmas time. Ablaze with sparkling lights and framed behind a giant Christmas tree, you can’t help but become filled with Christmas spirit.
Duomo di Milano
The festival just whet our appetites for all the Christmas fun that we would enjoy. I hope that I’ve been able to do the same for you. We still have so much left to explore together, including the Christmas markets of Switzerland and a tour of some of Italy’s “best towns for Christmas.” Plus, I got an early present… I hope that you’ll help me unwrap it. I’ll give you a hint – it’s got four wheels, two doors and 572 horsepower! Grab a warm cup of vin brulè and get comfy (oh yeah, we’ll give you a recipe for that too) – we’ve still got a lot of exploring Christmas time in Europe left to do.
Before I’ve even written the first word of this post, my OCD brain is trying to figure out if this post should be categorized under the “Food” or the “Travel” sections of the blog. I will be taking you along with us on our travel adventure to go eat some of Italy’s best food. It’s quite the dilemma…
A selection of salumi (cold cuts), formaggi (cheese) and the cinghiale (boar) that gave his life to the cause
You may have read about part of our visit with Aunt Deb and Uncle S where we ventured into the wine region of Piemonte during the first portion of their visit. Their two week sojourn in Italy included a mission to explore the best of what the country has to give. It was no coincidence then, that their adventure had been neatly divided into three of the country’s best offerings. Part I was Vino (wine). Party II was Cibo (food) – the subject of today’s post. Lastly, Part III was Storia (history). Since they experienced the rich history of Pompeii and Venezia on their own, I will let them tell you all about it at their next dinner party. I’ll simply report on the parts during which we were present… and luckily for us, we were present for a three day trip into Italy’s richest “food region”, Emilia-Romagna.
“Now I’m hungry – let’s eat!”
I always laugh when I speak to Italians about their trips to the United States. Before they even tell me, I know that they’ve been to New York City and then Miami (bypassing Washington DC; a detail they don’t want to admit but one that I always extract). If they’re fortunate enough to have a lengthy stay, they will then travel to Las Vegas on their way to Los Angeles. Occasionally, they may venture up the coast to San Francisco before returning home. That’s it. Every. Single. Time. Heck, I don’t blame them – they were raised in large part on American cinema, and that’s what most Europeans see as the sum total of the United States – New York and LA. And of course, who wouldn’t want to throw a trip to Vegas in the mix?! Likewise – it is the same for Americans coming here. Where do we go? Rome. Milan. Venice. Tuscany (Florence and Pisa) and occasionally the Italian Riviera if there’s time. But there is so much of this country that is left undiscovered (I feel like we travel non-stop and we still haven’t gotten a flavor of more than 10% of Italy). One region in particular that is largely overlooked is Emilia-Romagna. Heck, I’m willing to bet you probably haven’t even heard of it! But there are a few things that I know you know. You’ve heard of Ferrari, Lamborghini and Maserati. They’re all produced here, in Emilia-Romagna. Or aged balsamicvinegar? That also comes from here, in Modena. What about parmigiano reggiano (parmesan cheese)? Or prosciutto? I’d be wiling to bet that you’ve even heard of Ferrara chocolate. With culinary delights like these, it’s no wonder that Emilia-Romagna is often considered the “heart” of Italian cuisine.
Vineyards in Emilia-Romagna
S studies the frame of his photograph
The colors at this time of year were stunning
Julia takes a stroll and soaks up all that Emilia-Romagna has to offer
On our first day, we stopped in Parma (of Proscuitto di Parma fame) to begin our culinary escapade. We started small – just panini (sandwiches) at the most popular sandwich place in northern Italy, Pepèn. I was not at all surprised to learn that this tiny shop that has been around for over 200 years does not have a website. I think that they figured out the perfect panino (sandwich) somewhere in the past 100 years and have unabashedly decided not to change a thing since (earning them a #1 rating out of 430 restaurants reviewed on TripAdvisor – although calling it a “restaurant” is a stretch). Uncle S and I crowded into the tiny restaurant and I told the sandwich maestro to give us a mixture of some of his favorite concoctions. We awoke our taste buds with succulent porchetta, life-changing salsiccia crudo (raw sausage) and mind-altering gamberi piccanti (spicy shrimp) – all on perfectly toasted buns (these were just some examples of our sandwiches – we got many more to share). Since the place doesn’t really have any seats, we camped out on the steps of Chiesa Cattolica Parrocchiale San Pietro (St. Peter’s Catholic Church Parish) in Piazza Garibaldi Giuseppe to enjoy our delectable treats.
Pepèn is hidden on a small side street – you have to know where you’re going to get there
These two guys have been making panini in this crowded little shop for many years
One package of our delicious panini
We camped out on the stairs of the church to eat our lunch
Julia escorts Deborah and me into the Cattedrale di Parma
Amazing frescoes adorned every single wall in the church
The paintings on the wall were so lifelike I was mesmerized
The ceiling amazed all of us inside the Cathedral
The Baptistery of Parma, commissioned in 1196 by the city counsel of Parma
After a complete and rewarding day in Parma, we drove the forty five minutes to our B&B, just outside of Modena. After researching for many hours, we had booked a stay at, Locanda Gli Ulivi because it was centrally located to the places we would be visiting and has a wonderful online presence (great reviews and photos across our most reliable travel websites). We were not disappointed with the place – it was simply wonderful. Since we were weary road warriors on that first day, we decided to eat at the hotel’s restaurant, Osteria Clo ‘Filomena that night. Since the food was so wonderful and I was able to capture a picture of each course, I’ll complete a separate post about that meal.
Locanda Gli Ulivi
“Come on in…”
Our backyard
The pool
A nice place for a picnic
View from immediately across the room
Same place, looking to the right
An olive tree at night inside the property
An old church across the street, lit up by the purple sky of early evening
The next day, we departed with our sights on the largest city and capital of Emilia-Romagna, Bologna. To most Americans, bologna is a processed meat (that you either love or hate) sandwiched between two pieces of good ol’ fashioned white bread. In the States, we named “our” bologna after the city that is a major producer of mortadella – a staple meat of Bologna (and very similar – but much, much tastier than “our” bologna). My bologna has a first-name, and it’s…”send this back and bring me a slice of mortadella, please!”. To most Europeans, Bologna is much more than just a processed meat. It is a university town. Home to the oldest university in the world, University of Bologna, founded in 1088. Today, the university accepts students from all over the world – eager to complete a full program, or just a study abroad in the seventh most populated city in Italy. We walked around all day, stopping for a wonderful lunch at Cesari – a selection from S and Deb’s Fodor’s guidebook. The gang at Fodor’s know what they’re doing, it was a wonderful place.
Cesari was as delicious as it was charming
“Hey… we recognize that wine”
(from a tasting we did at Cantina di Borgogno a few days earlier)
We spent more time walking though this historically significant and important city, before ducking into a building with a much more modern vibe. Eataly is the brainchild of Oscar Farinetti; a store that is a proud Italian marketplace, selling the best ingredients and offering access to goods that are otherwise hard to acquire on a massive scale (imagine a Whole Foods on steroids that just sells Italian products). Even though Oscar opened his flagship 30,000 sq. ft store in Torino in 2007, the company really took off with locations around the world (including New York City) when B&B Hospitality Group (Mario Batali and Joe Bastianich) became a partner. Admittedly, the Bologna location was very underwhelming in size and scale (especially compared to the unique Torino store) – but we were still able to acquire some wonderful salumi (variety of cured meats) and formaggi (cheeses). That night, we procured reservations at the the most exclusive table in all of Italy – we had a little picnic in S and Deb’s room.
A statue stands near the University of Bologna
Julia becomes taken with a small group of performers
She takes a shot at playing – she started with some Mozart
Julia made a friend in the main piazza
Inside Eataly, our friend helps us select the best meats and cheeses for our picnic
S takes his job selecting for the group very seriously. Good thing he did, we had a wonderful meal
He cuts us a hard cheese
After our visit to Eataly, we needed a little coffee
I just thought this window was interesting
As well as this ancient building
The table is set
Our salumi (meats)
S and Deb are about to dig in with us
Our final day in Emilia-Romagna was no less packed with activities than the first two. We had scheduled a visit to the Museo di Ferrari (Ferrari Museum), exploration of Modena (with a stop for lunch) and a balsamic vinegar tasting. Car enthusiasts the world over can appreciate a visit to the “mecca of all things automotive”. This is what Modena can offer you – Ferrari and Maserati all have their factories within a few kilometers of the city (Lamborghini moved their headquarters from Modena to Bologna). Ferrari chose to name one of their models after the city itself (Ferrari Modena 360). We chose to learn a little bit about the legacy of Enzo Ferrari himself, one of the world’s truest visionaries. The museum did not disappoint….
Museo Ferrari in Maranello
“Welcome to paradise!”
An old Ferrari 166 F2
This classic symbol is at the heart of most men’s desires
1966 Ferarri 330 P3
1954 Ferrari 750 Monza
F1 Constructors’
Formula 1 World Champion 2008
Julia and I sure felt like champions
The heart that powers the machine
2013 Ferrari 458 Speciale
These babies can grip – Pirelli is the tire of race professionals
Concept car of the future
This is a clay model – what they use to construct a concept in the early stages of development
After soaking up all things, Ferrari – I drove us (albeit, much slower than a Ferrari could have gone) to the center of Modena. The town itself is a wonderful place, certainly worthy of a daily visit. It is believed that the city was already in existence by the 3rd century. Here in the 21st century, we lucked out and caught an open air market in the center of town. We were also treated to a marching band that passed us twice as we strolled through the city.
Main piazza in Modena – a street fair had been set up
Julia runs through the city
The streets of Modena were beautiful
S and Julia sit by their new friend
Meanwhile, these two are deep frying pig skins
Crispy, delicious and probably 130% fattening
S bought some prune jam – here he is bottling the jar for S
A marching band happened to pass through as we were in the market
Walking through the city again – there are a lot of pedestrian streets in Modena
Family photo
We ran into the marching band a second time
The day passed by [too] quickly and we had to bid a fond farewell to Modena – we had an important event coming up later that afternoon. A tasting at one of Modena’s finest producers of aged balsamic vinegar – Acetaia Villa San Donnino. Since it was such a fun and noteworthy event, I will post about it separately. After our trip back from Emilia-Romagna, S and Deborah took off for Pompeii and just a few days later, we were hugging our goodbyes. It’s amazing how quickly time time goes when you are filling it with great food and wine!
The title says it all. What commentary can I possibly add to a post who’s pictures tell the entire story?! Normally, I envision my readers hanging on to my every word and each carefully crafted pun (I said that I “envision” it… I know it doesn’t really happen) – but this time, I think I’ll let the pictures do most of the talking. Of course, I do have to give some sort of framework around the pictures (hey, it is my blog, after all).
Crowds fill the streets during Oktoberfest 2013
You may have just read about Josh and Abby’s visit where we ate too much, indulged too much and just did… too much! You know, the norm. We were lucky enough to also have Dave and Jill drop in for part of their trip and join us again in Munich, Germany for Oktoberfest. We were excited to get to the party – but before we could drink our first liter of beer in Munich, we needed to get there. There is no better way to travel through Europe than the train – and when you have an overnight-train option, it’s a win. You get your “hotel room” for the night included in the cost of transportation. But travelers be forewarned – the Ritz… It. Is. Not!
We took up four of the six bunk beds in our tiny room – luckily our “neighbors” were normal and smelled fine
Plenty of headroom in the top bunk
I settled in nicely
I couldn’t figure out why Google Maps said that the capital city of the German state of Bavaria was only about 6 hours by car and nearly 11 hours by train. We figured out the mystery when our train stopped in Verona for four hours – and they cut the air conditioning to conserve energy (I’m sweating just thinking about it). Josh and I were wide awake when we pulled into Verona at 11:00pm, so we opted to hop off the train for a few minutes and inhale some fresh air. Since we had plenty of time, we thought we’d go for a short walk. Forty minutes later, the Arena di Verona appeared before us and light up the night’s sky. We certainly didn’t envision being in the middle of Verona just after midnight, but all of a sudden… there we were. In fact, we were so unprepared that we were wearing our pajamas and flip flops, with very little money and no cell phones on our person. The fact that I couldn’t take a picture of us in our tank tops and shorts in front of the colosseum was depressing (I had the blog in mind) – but it was quite a fun adventure. We certainly stuck out more than any normal American tourist possibly could – the place was packed with people as a concert had just let out. We took a cab back to the train station and experienced a moment of panic when we discovered all the doors to the station had been locked with heavy chains and deadbolts (meanwhile, the girls were asleep on the train with no way to contact us). We found the one open entrance and still had plenty of time to share some whisky with people from our train, as our feet dangled over the tracks.
The arena in Verona – I borrowed this image from a trip I took earlier this year. We were walking around this main piazza in our pajamas
When we pulled into Munich the next morning, we were actually feeling quite refreshed despite a horrible night’s sleep. We were blessed with an early check-in at the hotel, so we quickly showered and got ready for the day. We ended up arriving in the Theresienwiese (the fairground where Oktoberfest is held) by a respectable 11:00am. There have been a few things in my life that have completely overwhelmed me. Seeing my bride walk down the aisle. Witnessing the birth of my daughter. And now I can add to that list… Oktoberfest.
Passing under the main gates for the first time in our lives
Each of the tents had their official wagon of barrels in front as part of the display
Oktoberfest is the world’s largest fair, held each year over a period of 16 days. The fair is host to over six million visitors from around the world. That’s like inviting every single person in the country of El Salvador to come stay in your city for two weeks! A staggering seven million liters of beer are consumed during the festival. Only beer conforming to the Reinheitsgebot (beer brewed within the city limits of Munich and containing 6% alcohol) may be served at Oktoberfest. There are only six brewers that meet this requirement and have the right to serve their beer.
Our first four liters of official Oktoberfest beer
How did this all get started, you say? Well, on October 12, 1810 King Ludwig I married Princess Therese of Saxe-Hildburghausen. The good citizens of Munich were invited to attend the joyous festivities in the fields in front of the city gates. The fields adopted the name, Theresienwiese (Theresa’s Meadow).The festival grew significantly in attendance as well as production value over the next two hundred years. The modern festival is all contained within the current Theresienwiese – an enclosed fairground in the southwest portion of the city. The fair is broken into a maze of streets divided by large tents (the Hippodrom, the Armbrustschützenzelt, etc.) and small tents (Ammer Hühner & Entenbraterei or Bodo’s Cafezelt, for example). The tents are where most attendees spend the majority of their time – where all the beer drinking, rebel rousing, singing and chaos takes place. The rest of the fairgrounds are comprised of the food vendors (serving traditional foods, such as Schweinebraten, Würstl and Käsespätzle), souvenir stands (where you can purchase a traditional steinkrug – beer stein) and carnival games and rides. Take it from me – you do not want to get separated from your group after consuming half a dozen liters… the grounds all begin to look exactly the same. You might decide to break down and cry like a 9 year old girl who got separated from her parents (I’m not confirming or denying this actually happened).
One of the larger tents – Hofbräu-Festzelt (Hofbräuhaus tent)
Another of the large tents – Armbrustschützenzelt (Paulaner Beer)
A street scene in the fairground – carnival rides and games as well as various vendors
Food stand
Carnival game – knocking cans over
Another carnival game – rifles
Since we had arrived at a respectable hour (before noon) we took a chance on one of the more popular tents, Hofbräu-Festzelt – the counterpart of the famous, Hofbräuhaus. We settled into a wonderful spot, with plenty of space to spread out and enjoy our first tasty bier (beer) and brezen (pretzel). Some Aussies sat down next to us and the real party began. Our new friends were hilarious, fun and really made the party!
Walking in to the Hofbräu-Festzelt
Josh and I smile for a photo while we wait for our first beir
The delicious first “taste” of Oktoberfest
Jen’s first beer
Abby’s first brezen
A group shot at our first table
Aloisius waits patiently for the girls to start throwing their bras up toward him
Our crazy Aussie friend, demonstrating his “angry dolphin” and his torn lederhosen
Despite the fun we were having, I had one harrowing thought repeating over and over in my head – “I’m not wearing any lederhosen!” The garment of Bavarian working-class men has become the traditional garb of the festival… and there I was wearing a stupid sweater and a pair of jeans. I felt as uncomfortable as if I had shown up to an interview wearing sweatpants and an REO Speedwagon tee shirt. I was able to convince Josh to head to the “lederhosen outlet” we saw adjacent to the fairground’s entrance. We found a Turkish businessman that owned a booming store with plenty of folks in the exact same predicament as us… people that showed up not realizing everyone gets into the spirit of tradition. I asked to see his cheapest pair of lederhosen, I tried them on and selected a matching shirt. After some quick negotiating, I was all dolled-up for €60. But that wasn’t the end of it. You see, Josh had tried on the same pair, but it didn’t compliment his butt properly. So he tried on another pair. The color of that pair didn’t compliment his eyes (or something like that). A third pair didn’t flatter his calves properly. Finally, he ended getting the perfect pair, a traditional shirt, socks and who knows what else. His total? €150 (about $210)! I’m laughing to myself all over again as I’m typing this. He was so mad at me the entire walk back (for “making” him buy lederhosen) that he barely talked to me. His temper was further exasperated when Abby couldn’t believe how much he spent for such a “stupid shirt”! He ended up throwing his new shirt away and putting his original shirt on under his lederhosen. Now that we were properly dressed, I could relax and start drinking!
I came back ready to really join the party
A local photographer for a Munich paper got a photo of this beautiful couple
Now that I’ve got my lederhosen, I’ve got a big grin
Jen and Abby got to work while we were out
Silly girls
If someone stands up on their bench, it means they have to “skull” or drink their entire beer
Finishing it will earn you cheers; falling short will land you public shame and jeers from the crowd
My new buddy helps me track my consumption of steins
Abby poses for a picture in a picture in a picture…
Dave and Jill found our spot in the tent while Josh and I were buying our lederhosen and the party really started to take off. We spent some more time in the Hofbräu-Festzelt, before deciding on a change of scenery. We walked toward another tent (I couldn’t tell you which one if my life depended on it), stopping only for some würstl (sausage) and to pick each other up off the ground. All the carnival games had gotten Josh and my typical competitive juices flowing – and so we left the group momentarily to compete. He took me in the first competition (knocking pins over) and I crushed him in the next (shooting ducks with a rifle… how I was able to hit 8/10 I’ll never know). While we were decided what the tie-breaker should be, we somehow just devolved into wrestling in the middle of the festival.
Dave and Jill join us in the first tent
Group photo
Dave and Jen cheers
This guy was soaking his dreads and having people suck the beer from them
He tries to get Dave to participate
We shuffle from our first tent to our second…
Our second tent – they were serving Hefeweizen
The girls were dancing… not sure where the bunny ears came from
Three different version of “Blue Steel” and a pretty smile
Another group shot
Josh and I venture to the outside world
Josh does a little shimmy…
…. and a shake
We start wrestling
I think it just turned into big man-hugs
This is what Josh found when he got back – the girls were just taking a short power-nap. They did rally though
We kept the party going for several more hours before finally heading home. It felt like 2:00am but was actually only about 10:30pm.
Classic – I couldn’t tell you where this hat came from
One of our last photos of the night
The next day, we enjoyed a fabulous breakfast sponsored by our hotel, the New Orly. We still had so much of the city to absorb, so we eagerly set out as soon as we gulped down our final freshly squeezed orange juice. Our first stop – Abby’s lifelong quest to see the Rathaus-Glockenspiel in the Marienplatz (center of the Old Town). The Rathaus-Glockenspiel is basically a giant cuckoo clock in the Town Hall building – but instead of a bird popping out, 32 life-sized figured dance to 43 bells and tell the story of Renata of Lorraine’s marriage to Duke Wilhem V (the founder of Hofbräuhaus and my personal hero).
Neues Rathaus (New Town Hall) in the Marienplatz
The central tower housed the Rathaus-Glockenspiel
A collection of pretzels dangling just out of reach
Josh and I stand under the pretzel tree
After witnessing the dancing figures, we walked around, taking in the sights of Altstadt (Old Town) – including impressive churches like the Dom zu Unserer Lieben Frau and Theatinerkirche St. Kajetan as well as the Royal Gardens and so much more.
Beautiful building in the Altstadt
The Frauenkirche (Dom zu Unserer Lieben Frau, “Cathedral of Our Dear Lady”)
Theatinerkirche St. Kajetan (Theatine Church of St. Cajetan)
I’m happy to embrace all of Munich at once
Josh and Abby in the Royal Gardens
Me and Jen in the Royal Gardens
We were lucky to have a beautiful second day
At this point we had been in Munich for nearly two days and had yet to visit a biergarten (beer garden), so we asked some locals for their recommendation and set our sights toward the Chinesischer Turm (Chinese Beer Garden) located in the middle of the Englischer Garten (English Garden), Munich’s largest park. We settled in for a beer outside and listened as the band played some traditional German music. We grabbed lunch and awaited Dave and Jill’s arrival.
Inside the Chinese beer garden
This is where our group reunited for the second time
The Englischer Garten has a unique feature – a man-made wave pool in one of the park’s rivers
We watched the surfers catch gnarly waves for a little while
After everyone had their fill of beer and food, we walked to the train station and headed back to the Theresienwiese for Round 2 of official Oktoberfest festivities (FYI – the Aussies we had been congregating with the day before had been in Munich five days and hadn’t once explored outside the fairgrounds – I don’t think I’ve had stamina like that since I was 18 years old). We visited a few more tents, drank a few more liters and ate a few more würstl’s. A highlight of the day was when we were sitting with some proper English lads and recounted the tales of our insane Australian friends from the day before. Not wanting to be outdone by the offspring of their country’s prisoners, one of the chaps took off his shoe and drank beer from it! Then they left to go ride roller coasters. I don’t think they quite reached the same level as the Aussie’s – but they got an “A” for effort.
Round Two begins…
We stop for a photo before settling in to our first tent
We chose the Bräurosl tent for our second day
Inside the tent – it was hard to find seats because it was late in the day
The entire gang on the second day
Jen and I salute another day of fun
I didn’t know Robert De Niro’s older brother would be at Oktoberfest
Having fun
Our British pal
Oh, that’s just nasty
I pretend to do the same thing with a shoe I found – what was I thinking?!
I am about to buy my last würstl of the trip
I ordered the biggest one they sold
We shared our final table at Oktoberfest with native Bavarians
The Hofbräu-Festzelt as our time in Munich comes to a close
As the sun was setting we headed back to the train station and boarded our overnight train back to Como. Josh and Abby disembarked the train in Verona, venturing on their own to Venice for a romantic day-trip and overnight stay. We had an amazing time in Munich with our wonderful friends Josh, Abby, Dave and Jill – something that we’ll never forget. If you have never been to Oktoberfest… add it to your bucket list. Jen and I will be happy to go back with you!
Abby brought Julia back an authentic lebkuchenherz (heart-shaped gingerbread cookie)
It’s been a long time since I completed a blog post. So long, that for some reason – I’m a bit nervous (strange, my friends will tell you that I love to talk about myself). So I’ve been procrastinating. I have organized my DVD drawer. I carefully tended to the plants (I’ve discovered I love gardening…in small doses). And the past few days, I have been playing Mr. Mom while Jen is in California for work. I have done just about everything to avoid writing on the blog for the past month… and the only thing I’ve come to realize is that I now have a mountain of work ahead of me.
A mountain in Beaulieu-Sur-Mer, not completely unlike my mountain of work
It’s not that I’ve just been procrastinating. We’ve been busy. I mean, very busy. Albeit, busy doing more of the same (traveling, eating, drinking, etc.) – but still always experiencing something new. So, please grant me the excuse of allowing the experience to get in the way of the blog – just this one time! In the coming days and weeks, you will hear of our wonderful trip to visit our good friends in France; the visit from Jen’s family and the upcoming visit with my parents. I’ll toss in a few food posts and hopefully a feature on where we’ve been living (which has been in the pipeline since I started this blog). So let’s get this party started… no more delays. And so, it begins with a trip to France…
When I last left you, my sister and her family had come to visit. We had a short window between their departure and the arrival of our next guests, Jen’s parents and sister. The timing was perfect, because good friends of ours, Michel and Shirley arrived at their home in Sablet, France just days before this brief “window”. They had graciously invited us to their home and we both jumped at the chance to see France through their eyes. We decided to take the circuitous route, passing by the sea and staying overnight in a small town along the French Riviera before joining them in what could easily be called, vin de pays (wine country).
Scenery along the drive
The drive from our home to the French Riviera was only a few hours (we were pleased to learn this – we hope to embark on a repeat journey while we’re here). We first passed through a small portion of the Italian Riviera before crossing into France. The landscape was stunning – windy roads encased by a vast ocean on our left and coarse mountains to our right.
The plan was simple – stop by Monte Carlo, Monaco for a little while before continuing to Beaulieu-Sur-Mer, where we had made hotel reservations. My secret plan that I kept to myself was also simple. Take Jen and Julia to the world-famous Monte Carlo Casino and win thousands of dollars in mere moments while they both waited and applauded. Needless to say, when I presented that plan I was shot down. Strange, I always thought I could sell anything. Something about a baby in a Casino… blah, blah, blah.
View as we approached Monte Carlo
A gold yacht?! You may think “tacky”. I think “baaaallllleeerr!”
We had gotten our typical late-start from home and so by the time we got to Monte Carlo we did not have enough time to properly enjoy the city. We were hungry and eager to stretch our legs, so after a brief drive-through we pushed on to Beaulieu-Sur-Mer, vowing to come back when we had the time to really enjoy Monte Carlo (also, when I had my tuxedo so that I could do my best Bond impression).
I chose Beaulieu-Sur-Mer to stay overnight because Michel had recommended Villefranche-Sur-Mer, the neighboring town. I liked his recommendation based on the town’s size, proximity to Nice and Monaco, and hotel availability. It fit snugly into my travel plans and so I booked a nice seaside hotel with views of the ocean and mountain. It wasn’t until I arrived that I realized I actually booked in the neighboring town. Oh, well – c’est la vie (that’s life). It turned out to be a nice blessing, because “our” town was beautiful and couldn’t have made for a better overnight stay.
View of the marina from our balcony
View of the mountain from our balcony
Our pool that we didn’t have time to use
Same marina view at night – loved the night sky
Same mountain view at night
Upon checking in, we asked the young lady at the front desk where we should eat lunch. She stumbled over her answer and said that “maybe you could go to the marina, or maybe you could go into town” but she wasn’t quite sure which way either of those things were (FYI – the marina was literally across the street and town was ten minutes north by foot). I quickly dismissed her recommendations and we ventured off on our own (ever get that “this person has no idea” feeling before they’re even done talking?). Maybe it’s the language barrier you say? I hope not – she was from Southern California.
Jen and Julia in front of the marina across from our hotel
A different marina nearby
Making me wish I knew how to sail
We took off in the direction opposite of her suggestion and found ourselves in one beautiful setting after another. My camera flashed on Julia and the scenery like I was a photographer from the National Geographic (sadly, my pictures turned out to be of slightly lower quality). We made our way into the center of town and purchased a bottle of wine to enjoy on our balcony later that night. We ate a light snack in lieu of lunch and continued to explore on our own whilst waiting for our restaurant of choosing to open their doors for dinner. We found a Casino (a-ha!) and I was able to convince Jen that a few hands of blackjack were just what the doctor ordered! Julia was asleep in her carriage and it was just the angle I needed to close the deal. Sales record intact! Sadly, it was closed for renovation – a disappointing turn of events that cost me hundreds of euro’s (or saved me, depending on your view of gambling).
A park we passed
Kissing my baby
Wonder what that says, too bad it’s in French
Oh, it says “wet paint”!
Julia’s favorite flower is a rose
We found a casino! Too bad they were closed
Dusk sets in as we walked home after dinner
Street scenes in the evening
Boat scenes at night – we enjoyed walking past all the docked yachts
We ate a delicious dinner at, La Pignatelle, which I’ll feature in a separate piece on some of our favorite French dining experiences. Finally, we strolled home and enjoyed our balcony before turning in to bed.
The next day, we departed and headed for Michel and Shirley’s home – two hours north of our current location. We had coordinated our arrival for late afternoon, allowing enough time to travel the twenty minutes southwest into Nice, France for lunch and exploration. I parked in the center of town and we got out and enjoyed wandering from one end of Avenue Jean Medecin (Nice’s main street and shopping corridor) to the other. Since Nice is the fifth most populated city in France, a few hours would not be nearly enough to explore properly – but perhaps enough to get a bit of the local flavor.
Nice from afar
You can see the city is quite grand
We followed Avenue Jean Medecin all the way to it’s end, where it nearly intersects with the sea. We strolled through the markets they have set up (we were very impressed with the French markets throughout our entire time there) and ended up on the beach.
View from the Place Masséna
The Basilique Notre-Dame de Nice is the largest church in Nice
A market was set up besides open-air restaurants
“Can I pull this off?”
Beautiful array of flowers
Large selection of fresh vegetables
Aromatic spices available for purchase
As you may know about Nice, the beaches are not at all nice and sandy, but rather awash with large stones. It’s charming simply by it’s uniqueness and what’s better – Julia could have all the fun in the world without getting dirty!
Playing in the rocks…errr, playing on the beach
“Look at me!”
“I’m going to throw it”
“I really am…”
“Nah, just kidding – here you go”
Julia teaching me how to use the camera
Behind the scenes of our photo shoot
Mom and daughter having fun
After lunch on the beach (sandwiches on French bread – my pick, not Jens. I’d tell you a mini-battle raged over my selection of lunch, but Jen will be mad at me – so it never happened) we walked around a bit more before getting back in the car and departing for a few days with Michel and Shirley. So far, we were loving what France had to offer. Much more to come, stay tuned…
Every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday there is a market on the north side of Como. It exists just outside the old fort wall that surrounds the original city. There is a collection of over a hundred vendors, most which arrive in their vans and vend from open doors.
Vans – vending on the other side
We strolled through and decided there was nothing we needed before moving on to a late afternoon snack (more on that in a subsequent post). Below you’ll see a collection of the random items you can purchase if you so choose.
The Market
Some “fine” jewelry
Snacks
Books
Shoes
Anything you can imagine
And of course… even the dogs show up in high fashion
Now you see why we didn’t need anything. But of course, it was still fun to walk around!
OK, we realize it’s nearly February and people are more inclined to think about Valentine’s Day than Christmas… but it’s still cold and snowy and hey, who couldn’t use a little holiday cheer any time of year?! So, if you’ll forgive us for posting about Christmas at the end of January, than you’ll certainly excuse the fact that these pictures were taken last year!
Christmas is such a special time in Italy. We didn’t want to miss a posting about this wonderful event and some of the local traditions. When we arrived on January 4th, all the lights and decorations were still present but we didn’t have an opportunity to photograph anything. Therefore, we had to use some from last year’s library.
Lake Como’s Duomo – lit up at night
Starting in early December, you’ll find lights and decorations sprinkled throughout each piazza and cobblestone street you encounter. In front of every church you’ll see a presepio (nativity scene) that is always presented wonderfully and illuminated each night. If you venture into the suburbs (or look up toward the windows in most cities), you’ll see hundreds of little Santas trying to climb their way into someone’s home. And you’re sure to hear “Buon Natale” (Merry Christmas) at every turn.
“Let me in!!”
Of course, Christmas is also on December 25th but the celebrations don’t stop until after La Festa dell’Epifania (The Feast of the Epiphany) when on the Eve of the Epiphany (January 4th) the Befana (witch) delivers candy to all the good children and brings coal to all the naughty children. Wiki Link on the Befana. My intimate knowledge of this subject comes from Julia’s children’s books. Basically, what I’ve learned is that the Befana went to bring the baby Jesus sweets and sweep up his room since his new mother would be exhausted. So now on the Eve of January 4th, she comes and sweeps up little childrens rooms and gives them candy.
A stroll on the streets of Lake Como
The lights on the Duomo in Milan are gorgeous, and we’ve read about other cities that have wonderful presepios or stunning decorations but our absolute favorite is seeing the light display in our own town of Lake Como. Images are cast across buildings, churches and even the streets and municipal buildings.
Some shops in the main piazza
Another angle
We loved the “icicles” hanging off the ledge
The “snow” would cascade down the buildings
Como’s Teatro Sociale
Even the otherwise boring government buildings join the party
“Friends of Como, Merry Christmas”
Another wonderful tradition in Lake Como is the market that assembles for several weeks in the winter months – right in the main square, the Piazza Cavour. Here, you’ll find vendors of meats, cheeses, breads, goods and our personal favorite – vino cotto (cooked wine), which is commonly known as mulled wine.
“Make mine a double please!”
*Now that another year has passed, please enjoy some of our Christmas posts from this past season.
