Category Archives: Travel – Italy

Family Stories, History, Landscape, Photography, Sipping Espresso, Travel - Italy

Trieste… Italy’s Most “European” City

July 31, 2014 Greg

So, I’m back here on Sipping Espresso… blogging. Weird. I’m in America. I’m blogging about Italy from America. Can I do that?! Is that even allowed?! Well, I promised you in my Final Blog Post From Italy that I would finish our tale of overseas adventure and intrigue (OK, OK – more like overseas adventure of gluttony and transparency), so I suppose that I’ll have to make good on my word. For those of you that are sick of hearing about these adventures… I’m sorry, but I’m OCD and I am not much good at leaving things unfinished.

“Well, get going already Dad and tell us this story”!

So, let’s flash back; way, way back to this past spring when Jen’s sister came to visit. Just as they departed for Venice and Rome, we took our own leave from Como and headed toward the metropolitan city of Trieste. When I think about what brought us to Trieste, I finally understand the word bittersweet. We undertook the four-hour road trip to Italy’s easternmost city so that I could run in the Maratonina d’Europa (Europe’s Half Marathon). Despite having to add the somewhat embarrassing “ina” suffix to the end of Maratona (changing the meaning to “very little”), completing my first half-marathon was a very “sweet” accomplishment for me. However, the impetus behind the race was a very “bitter” one. Jen and I had started listing all the things that we wanted to do before our time in Italy came to an end. This particular road trip checked many of our boxes; competing in a race in Europe, a visit to the city of Trieste, time in the region of Friuli–Venezia Giulia, capped off with a visit to Slovenia (upcoming post). Now, that checked a lot of boxes, so careful planning began and hotels rooms were booked.

Julia and I stand in front of the glasses they had set up for the race

Here’s how I would sum up Trieste – it is a MUST-SEE city. Sometimes I find myself guilty of trying to label a city by comparing it to another city. “Rome is like New York, but much older and without the high-rises”. Sometimes, you’ve just got to stop and appreciate where you are for what it is. Don’t try to “label” the place or put it in a box; its easy to fall into that trap with Trieste. A city that has bounced back and forth between Slovenian, Austrian and Italian rule leaves us with a place today that is proud of its blend in architecture and attitude. Trieste is a city not at all confused about its confusing identity. With a rich mix of Slavic, Germanic and Latin influences – I am simply content to label this magical place as one of the most “European” cities I have ever visited.

We're finally here in Trieste! — We’re finally here in Trieste!

Fountain that accurately describes Trieste's ties to the sea — Fountain that accurately describes Trieste’s ties to the sea

Along the main street — Along Corso Cavour, the main street adjacent to the cities famous piazza

My race was on a Sunday and so we arrived Saturday with a planned departure on Monday. After we checked into the hotel, we strolled down to the Piazza Unità d’Italia to register for my race. I had often heard this piazza referred to as “the most beautiful piazza in Italy” and what I saw did not disappoint. The grand square is the largest of any on the water in all of Europe. On this particular spring weekend the piazza was also the location of my finish line.

We walked down with a friend I made in the hotel - he was also running in the race — We walked down with a friend I made in the hotel – he was also running in the race

Julia stands with Julia in the square — Jen hangs out with Julia in the square

The piazza at night — The Piazza Unita d’Italia at night

Julia hugs Jen while we were walking around

We didn’t have much to worry about the night before the race, so we strolled through the piazza and walked the roads along the water. They had all sorts of fair-type events set up for the race, including tents serving beer, desserts and carnival rides. I took Julia on the Ferris Wheel and got a great view of the city and the harbor. After the fun, we took in a spectacular seafood dinner near the harbor (mm’mmm I’m making myself hungry for fresh Italian food. Never had that problem while writing until now, when I can’t get it quite as easily).

I get ready to take her on her first Ferris Wheel — I get ready to take her on her first ferris wheel

View from our car at the top of the ferris wheel

The sunsets in Trieste were like nothing I've ever seen — The sunsets in Trieste were like nothing I’ve ever seen

The light play from the sky was this stunning both nights we were there

We had to try some delicious frittelle with nutella — We had to try some delicious frittelle with Nutella

“Honey… you’ve got a little Nutella, riiiiight there”

On race day, I was up and at ’em early – ready to beat my goal time (which I didn’t do). Of course, I forgot that I was in Italy and so the start of the race was a little later than I originally planned. I kept warm by jogging around the parking lot and taking in the crowds. I was tickled when I ran past the snack tents used for refueling depleted calories (usually covered by bananas and power bars) and found brioche and other Italian pastries. When I finished, I could not have been more pleased to be greeted by Jen and Julia; and to have Julia wear my medal.

There wasn't much happening at the start line until after the race was supposed to begin — There wasn’t much happening at the start line until after the race was supposed to begin

I had the sea to my right for almost the entire half-marathon

I felt (and looked) like death, but I crossed the finish line

My little peanut was proud of me... that was the best part of all — My little peanut was proud of me… that was the best part of all

Julia may have been more interested in the biscotti than the medal

Picture along the canal that runs through the city streets — Picture along the Canale Grande (Grand Canal) that runs through the city streets

After the race, we stopped for a quick snack and beer (hey, I earned it) before going back to the hotel to change. Then, it was time to tour the city! Even though my marathon race was just a maratonina, I’m sure that we walked the remaining 13.1 miles as we wound through Trieste’s ancient streets. This was especially challenging, since the first part of the tour required me to carry Julia and her stroller up the Scala Giganti (Giant Steps). We capped it all off back in the Piazza Unità d’Italia for happy hour before a wonderful dinner.

We stopped for a beer and light snack along the canal

The touring began with the STEPS — The touring began with the Scala dei Giganti (Giant Steps) – this is only about 25% of them

After a long uphill climb, we got this panoramic of the city

We arrived at the CASTLE — We arrived at the Castello di San Giusto

STATUE — Statue in front of the castle depicts maritime soldiers at war

In front of the castle were ancient Roman ruins

I love that you can find young soccer players were ancient Roman soldiers stood a thousand years before — Young soccer players compete where ancient Roman soldiers stood a thousand years before

Here I am in front of the CASTLE — Here I am in front of the Castello di San Giusto

Nearby is a church - see if you can find the two cannon balls that have been lodged in the stone during a siege from the sea — Nearby is the Cattedrale di San Giusto – see if you can find the two cannon balls that have been lodged in the stone during a siege from the sea centuries before

Wonderful ancient streets – this is Viale XX Settembre

Half-Marathon or not... this kid had to get up and down these stairs somehow — Half-Marathon or not… this kid had to get up and down these stairs somehow

Ancient Roman theatre — Teatro Romano di Trieste – ancient Roman theatre

We stopped in the piazza for happy hour — We stopped back in the piazza for happy hour

My happy hour instagram shot — My happy hour Instagram shot

Julia and I took a swing around the piazza — Julia and I took a stroll around the piazza

The grand canal at night — Chiesa di Sant’Antonio Nuovo at the end of the Canale Grande – well-lit at night

If you ever find yourself in northeast Italy (I’m talking to YOU, when you plan that inevitable visit Venice) – do yourself a favor and carve out a couple of days to see Trieste. You’ll be glad you did!

Bergamo, Family Stories, Landscape, Lombardia, Travel - Italy

Bergamo – Italy’s Most Underrated City

June 10, 2014 Greg

I played with various options for the title of this post, ranging from “Italy’s Most Hidden Treasure” to “Italy’s Best Kept Secret”. Really, any of those title would be apropos. Bergamo is all of those things and so much more. Ultimately, I went with “most underrated” because it seems that most people would rather bypass this northern Italian city for the sexier Venice, Florence or Rome. Heck, even neighboring Verona pulls more visitors than Bergamo. As a matter of fact, I had never even heard of Bergamo until I moved here and I had visited nearby Como plenty of times leading up to this adventure.

Getting to know Bergamo was truly a blessing, because it is the type of place that we will continue to visit over and over. The distinguishing feature of Bergamo is that it is really two cities in one. There is the older, medieval city at the top of the hill (Città Alta) and the much more modern city (Città Bassa) below. Incidentally, I use the term “modern city” quite loosely… most notable development is still several hundred years old.

Secured roads allowed access into the ancient city

The view from atop the hill extends for miles

The main city gate, flanked by the Venetian lions from the time of Venetian rule — The main city gate, marked with the winged Venetian lion from the time Venetians ruled the city

On our first visit well over a year ago, we were drawn toward Città Alta. We spent most of our day wandering the cobblestone streets, soaking up the magical views the high city extends before you. We had been dying to come back to Bergamo and finally got the opportunity when Jen’s sister came to visit with Matt (first post HERE). I thought the mixture of old and new would be something unique for them to see, and the hour(ish) car ride from our home would allow an easy day trip. We loaded our car and headed east toward the city. Our first step was to ascend the hill toward Città Alta (also known as Città Vecchio or Old City) by means of finiculare (cable car). We had researched a good lunch place and in no time, we found ourselves settled outside on the patio of La Tana. After lunch, we spent quite a bit of time wandering around the cobblestone streets and settled in among the other tourists and locals in the centro (center) of town.

La Tana - a fabulous restaurant — La Tana – a fabulous restaurant

Jen's sister, Jessica with Julia — Jen’s sister, Jessica with Julia

The waiter recommended a fabulous beer, produced locally. I'm still searching for where it's sold — The waiter recommended a fabulous beer, produced locally. I’m still searching for where it’s sold

Eventually we descended to Città Bassa with plenty of daylight still above us. This gave us a perfect opportunity to enjoy an aperitivo (or two) in the sun. With our thirst quenched, we continued our tour of the lower city. This was the first time that Jen and I spent any notable amount of time down below and we were thrilled with what we discovered. The much more modern, lower city is just as special as the ancient city above.

The lower city has a charm that rivals the higher city

The streets are full of shops and caffès

My only regret is that my photos don’t do this special city justice. I urge you to spend a full day exploring Bergamo and come discover for yourself why this is Italy’s “most underrated city”.

Family Stories, Friends, Humor, Markets, Milan, Travel - Italy

Mercatone dell’Antiquariato – Milan’s Outdoor Antique Market

June 2, 2014 Greg

Jennifer and I simply love outdoor markets. Jen holds on to the belief that she’s going to stumble across a vintage Louis Vuitton handbag or uncover that perfect piece for our future living room. I’ve got much lower (and more realistic expectations); I’m just thrilled that I get to eat “street food”. Nothing is better than a porchetta paninio (pork sandwich) from a food vendor with freshly fried zeppole (Italian donuts) for dessert. I love sandwiches, I love eating outside and I love feeding my entire family for less than €20!

Pack your bags, let's check out the market! — Pack your bags, let’s check out the market!

All of us at the Fiera — All of us at the Mercatone dell’Antiquariato

Jen has been trying to get to the Mercatone dell’Antiquariato del Naviglio Grande since we moved here nearly a year and a half ago. “What’s the big deal – why is it so hard to make it to a market”, you ask? Well, this particular market only takes place on the last Sunday of each month (except for July). For those of you that aren’t math wizards, that’s just eleven chances a year to make it to Milan for this 80-year-old Milanese tradition. Our first attempt was foiled – we set out one day in January of 2013, but got derailed when we couldn’t find parking. It was ambitious of me to try so soon after moving to Italy – had I known then what I know now, I would have just thrown my car on the curb like the hundreds of other locals. Instead, we stopped for lunch and found an amazing sandwich place, which I blogged about HERE. After lunch, we lost the motivation to go back and agreed, “we’ll try again as soon as we get the next opportunity”. Well, travel and other obligations delayed that opportunity fifteen more months.

Jen's sister Jessica along with Jen and Julia — Jen’s sister Jessica along with Jen and Julia

Another family photo along the Alzaia Naviglio Grande

We had been casually referring to the market as “Milan’s Antique Market”. Certainly, there is some truth in referring to the Mercatone dell’Antiquariato as an antique market, but perhaps flea market is a more apt description. The products sold range from old shoes to mid-century furniture. You can acquisition antique coffee makers or art by local artists. The best part about paying a visit to this unique bazaar is that you’ll never know what you need until you find it.

The stores also sell antiques - here is a classic espresso maker once used in a coffee bar — The stores also sell antiques – here is a classic espresso maker once used in a coffee bar

Roughly 380 vendors wind their way up Alzaia Naviglio Grande, placing their backs to the canal. This trendy neighborhood in Milan features many cafes and bars that call to the younger, artistic crowd. Jen and I had been hoping to get away from the centro (center) of Milan and visit this particular area for some time. Well, two birds… as they say. As lunch time approached, we picked a great pizzeria in a former factory – the space was as great as the food. If you find yourself in Milan near the last weekend of the month, be sure to carve out some time for the Mercatone dell’Antiquariato.

The neighborhood is full of artists and street art

INFORMATION

WHAT » Mercatone dell’Antiquariato del Naviglio Grande
WHEN » Last Sunday of every month (except July)
WHERE » Milan
ADDRESS »
Strada Alzaia Naviglio Grande, via Valenza, South
TRANSPORT »
Metro Porta Genova/bus 59, 74, 169
Tram 2, 3, 9, 14, 15, 29, 30

Castles, Food, Humor, Restaurants, Travel - Italy, Tuscany

You “Massa” Check Out This City (Massa, Italy)

May 12, 2014 Greg

Man, do I love the bad puns in my titles or what? Probably about as much as I love posing rhetorical questions to my readers…

Roughly twelve days ago, I was as proud of myself as Arvind Mahankali when he successfully spelled knaidel to beat Pranav Sivakumar and secure the championship title during the 86th Scripps National Spelling Bee (apparently, this particular Indian-American knows a thing or two about Jewish comfort food). Why was I so pleased with myself, you ask? Well, I thought that I had finally caught up with our stories on the blog. And then a whirlwind of activity commenced in a flash as Jen’s sister arrived for a visit with her boyfriend. We had such a nice time traveling and eating with them (really, is there anything else you would want to do in Italy?) that now I have a ton more to write about. Additionally, we left them to their own devices while we embarked on a rewarding road-trip, which I cannot wait to tell you about. So, now once again – I am behind the times again faster than you can spell prosciutto.

An accurate portrayal of me as I struggle to keep up with the blog

When I was looking ahead toward the next 5-8 posts, I realized that I would be remiss not to step back and mention our visits to Pisa and then Massa in northern Tuscany. When I last wrote, I detailed our trip to Lucca (HERE). During the drive home we detoured to marvel at the Torre pendente di Pisa (Leaning Tower of Pisa) before getting back on the road. We hadn’t traveled too much further when our perfectly timed Italian stomachs told us it was time for lunch (at first I thought our three stomachs growling in unison was a tractor-trailer honking furiously at me). I was more in the mood for a leisurely lunch than a quick stop at an AutoGrill (picture a rest-stop along the NJ Turnpike with better food and espresso). I turned to my trusty “TripAdvisor” cell phone app and searched for a restaurant near us. I discovered Il Fatty (yeah… you guessed the translation; The Fatty) in the city we were approaching. With a name like, “the fatty” – how could you go wrong?! I took the exit toward Massa and headed into the center of town.

Torre pendente di Pisa – Leaning Tower of Pisa

Work on the tower began in 1173 and took 199 years to complete

Julia photographs me in front of the tower

Battistero di San Giovanni (Pisa Baptistry) and Primatial (Pisa Cathedral)

You may not have heard of Massa (we hadn’t), but if you’re a fan of interior design, than you’ve definitely heard of the province in which Massa is located, Carrara. Carrara marble is the fashionable stone of choice for kitchens counters the world over. The stone has been mined in this area for centuries (Carrara marble has been used since Ancient Rome). Upon exiting the highway, my mind was set only on lunch with no expectation of discovering any real beauty; the area is heavily industrialized. Like a naval shipyard or factory park, the landscape is blanketed with large machinery, billowing factories and tractor trailers transporting thousands of pounds worth of the white stone.

Panorama Massa Italy — Massa and Carrara are sister cities in the Province of Carrara

However, we were surprised when we got away from the mining equipment and approached the center of town. The city itself was clean and beautiful. It became obvious that Massa has prospered as a result of the local product. The town is well designed and perfectly maintained. Even the street curbs and park benches are made of Carrara marble! After a delicious lunch at Il Fatty we wanted to discover what the city had to offer. There seemed to be a surprise around every turn. We found orange trees and large piazze (town squares), ancient buildings and ample shopping. We were pleasantly surprised to see how much is available to tourists, although the place is happily devoid of the map-reading, fanny-pack wearing, crowd-shoving sightseers (by the way, I’m not casting stones; that is usually us in a nutshell, less the fanny-pack).

The — Il Fatty’s “signature” sandwich – Panino Lamprodotto

Homemade torta di riso, proudly made by the owner's son, Alessandro — Homemade torta di riso, proudly made by the owner’s son, Alessandro

Great statue in the center of the main piazza

There is even a wonderful 15th century castle perched high above the town. We took the narrow and windy drive up the hill, only to discover the castle was closed for repair. Oh well, I was able to get a couple beautiful panoramic’s of the city and neighboring sea.

The position of the city is well situated between the coast and the mountains

If I can borrow a page from the Michelin Star guide-book, I would rank Massa with a full star (out of three). One star denotes a very nice place worthy of a visit (but not a place to go far out of your way to see). If you do visit, tell Alessandro at Il Fatty that we said hello. However, be weary of his suggestion to try the local favorite, Panino Lamprodotto. It’s basically just tripe (cows stomach) on a bun – not my favorite Italian food. Of course, I would be lying if I told you I left a single bite behind.

Friends, Hotels, Travel - Italy

Le Violette – A Bed & Breakfast Full of Charm

April 30, 2014 Greg

You know when you visit a charming little restaurant or hotel and turn to your significant other on the way home and say, “what a wonderful place. I wish them all the success in the world – I’d love to come back soon and relive this experience all over again”? Or, have you ever been so impressed with someone personally that you truly want them to succeed at whatever it is they decide to do with their life?

Well, when we recently visited Le Violette in Lucca, Tuscany; I had the rare occasion to think both of those things. Le Violette is such an inviting place and its proprietor, Elizabeth is such a warm and genuine person that it is impossible not to fall in love with the entire experience.

Beth's guestbook is filled with messages from happy travelers — Beth’s guest book is filled with messages from happy travelers

Last year we reconnected with a high school friend, Elizabeth via Facebook. Of course, we knew her as Beth – but when you live in Italy for over a decade, your name becomes Elizabeth once again (the name Beth doesn’t really exist here). Last year, we stayed with her family in their amazing farm home in the Tuscan countryside (HERE and HERE). So, when she told us that she had recently just bought a Bed and Breakfast in Lucca, the car was packed faster than you can say, “Brunello di Montalcino“.

Typically Tuscany - Landscape — The hills behind Beth’s home

Lucca is one of those truly special Italian towns; the type of place you picture when you think of Italy. I recently wrote about our amazing trip to this city, HERE. If you read the post about the city then you will discover that the city is enclosed by medieval walls, still perfectly intact. It is immediately after you cross through the main city gate beneath these famous walls that you will discover Le Violette. The bed and breakfast is nestled on a perfectly cozy neighborhood street, in close proximity to the city walls and the main piazza. A short stroll from the B&B and you will find yourself at any of the cities main attractions. And if you’re in the mood for a late night snack, a great panini (sandwich) and pizza place is literally around the corner.

Walls of Lucca — The ancient walls completely enclose the city

Le Violette is very accommodating, offering many different options for lodging. For the single traveler, smaller rooms are available at a discounted price. Larger rooms are also available – we had more than enough space for all three of us. In fact, Beth…excuse me, Elizabeth had already set up an extra bed for Julia. Our room had large windows, which allowed a nice breeze and natural light to flow into the room. Some of the rooms offer fireplaces and other custom details. For the real road warriors, Beth makes her washer and dryer available – a real treat for people on the go.

Each morning, Beth sets out a wonderful breakfast for her guests. We would stock up on a variety of brioche, torte, fruit, fresh juice and more before setting out for the day. We tend to look for places that include breakfast in order to take one more step of planning out of the equation. We were thrilled that Beth would deliver cappuccini to her guests each morning. She even foamed some milk for our daughter, Julia so she wouldn’t miss out on the fun.

If you find your way to Italy, I would highly recommend Lucca. If you are able to stay overnight, you can do no better in terms of value, service and charm than Le Violette. Let Beth know that we sent you… I’d tell you that she would be extra nice if you deliver that message, but you’re always guaranteed to feel like family when Beth is your hostess (no matter how long you’ve known her). At least stop by for a nice cappuccino!

Friends, History, Humor, Photography, Travel - Italy, Tuscany

“Lucca Over Here… This Tuscan Town is Amazing”!

April 25, 2014 Greg

If you read the title of this post with your best impression of an Italian accent, then you probably nailed the pronunciation of one of our new favorite Italian towns. Lucca has been on our bucket list to visit for quite some time and now we can happily say we’ve been.

Torre Guinigi - Lucca — Another angle from Torre Guinigi

The city is renowned for many things, not the least of which is the giant annual gathering of comic book nerds and fantasy film geeks. Lucca plays host to Europe’s version of Comic-Con, the Fiera Internazionale del Fumetto (International Festival of Comics) or as it’s commonly referred – Lucca Comics and Games.

Some participants of Lucca Comics. Photo courtesy of Francesco Petrucci — Some participants of Lucca Comics and Games. Photo courtesy of Francesco Petrucci

For those of us that don’t have any desire to put on a Superman costume (yes, I’m just enough of a geek to know the term cosplay), there is more than enough to do in Lucca, which I will detail below. Thanks very much to some free press bestowed on me by Italia Living, I have recently picked up a few new readers (benvenuto a Sipping Espresso) and so I’m going to treat this post a little differently than in the past. As opposed to running through our little vacation part by part, instead I will opt to go a bit more “mainstream” and simply highlight the featured attractions of the city. Of course, I haven’t boiled it down to a “Top 10 Things To Do In Lucca” just yet. I like to hear myself talk far too much!

During Medieval and Roman times, it was quite common to fortify entire cities behind massive protective walls. Today, Lucca is a preeminent example of such fortification and one of the few cities left in Italy with her ancient walls fully intact. It is a wonderful experience to drive your car through the same gate that was quite possibly used by Julius Caesar himself. Of course, in this scenario, I’m simply the chauffeur and my own little Julia is the royalty riding in the back of the chariot. Even though I can’t positively date the existing walls as far back as Caesar, I can place him in Lucca for the well documented Lucca Conference, along with Pompey and Crassus in 56 BC. The origin of the city itself date back as far as 180 BC. Eventually Lucca rose in importance to the Roman empire and achieved immense wealth and status in the 11th century, thanks to the silk trade. The result of this wealth is evident today; the city is very well maintained. Nearly every street features an ancient church boasting a façade clad with expensive marble. Well designed piazzas are now the gathering places for tourists, street performers and restauranteurs. Streets lined with charming shops and wonderful cafes full of patrons keep the vibe of the city humming well into the night.

You can find many fine example of sculpture and statues along the top of the walls — You can find many fine examples of sculpture and statues along the top of the walls

The walls are wide enough for cars to pass along the top, but it is solely pedestrian

Churches of Lucca — One of the many churches that can be found on nearly every corner in the city

Our reason for being in Lucca was to visit our good friend, Beth (although here she goes by, Elizabeth which is better understood in Italian). We had an amazing time when we stayed at her home in Tuscany last year, which I wrote about HERE and HERE. She hosted us once again, but this time it was in the Bed & Breakfast she recently purchased, Le Violette. The place matches her personality perfectly; warm and inviting with an extra pinch of charm. I’ll write a full review of her B&B in an upcoming post. After we unloaded our bags in the room, Beth started our tour of the city beginning with the walls, which were widened centuries ago. In fact, not that long ago they used the walls for racing cars. Today, they are purely pedestrian.

Lucca Walls — View of the main bell tower of Lucca from on top of the walls

We hopped off the walls and strolled through the city, enjoying Lucca as only a pedestrian can.

Via del Fosso has a canal running through the center

Via Cenami is one of the main shopping streets

Julia takes a picture with me in Piazza San Francesco

The old market building where vendors would set up their stalls

Most Italian cities feature outdoor markets one-two times a week. We made our way to one of the fabulous Lucca mercato (market), which is held every Wednesday and Saturday.

We discovered that we accidentally strolled outside the walls by following the long line of vendors

Beautiful flowers are just one of the many things you could buy in the market

Lucca markets — I catch Jen for a photo in the market

Markets Italy Lucca — The markets can get crowded but they are a great place to pick up a picnic lunch

While in Lucca, you will want to position yourself in a vantage point that will command a view of the entire city, valley and mountains. You can choose to scale the Torre delle Ore (Clock Tower) or the Torre Guinigi (Guinigi Tower). We opted for the later, because it is the only tower in the city that has trees planted on top. But the ascent is not for the faint of heart; it’s a steep 230 steps until you get to the top. Compared to other similar towers, I found the €6 entry fee a bit steep, considering you don’t get anything other than the view (many similar sites also feature other historical items – this was purely just the tower). I quickly reversed my position on the fee when I actually took in the view. Breathtaking might be an appropriate word to describe the panorama.

Torre Guinigi steps — The final staircase ascending toward the top of the tower (shooting from below, looking up)

I lost my cool when I thought this was the top and I would have to view through a cage - when I cooled down, I realized there was a door and simply pushed on — I lost my cool when I thought this was the top and I would have to view the city through a cage. When I calmed down, I realized there was a door and simply pushed on

View of the city with the prominent Cattedrale di San Martino in view

Students in Lucca — I noticed a few groups of school children; Lucca is a popular destination for Italians

You will certainly want to pay a visit the Piazza dell’Anfiteatro, a Roman amphitheater that has been reconstructed into a piazza compete with charming shops and cafes. We sat and enjoyed a few drinks while Julia enjoyed running around with Beth’s son, Indi.

Lucca Amphitheater — Panoramic of the Piazza inside the amphitheater

Outside the Lucca Amphitheater you can see the remains of the original Roman structure

Of course, no trip to Lucca would be complete without a visit to the Piazza San Michele and a tour through the Chiesa di San Michele in Foro.

Piazza San Michele — The piazza hosts some performers that loved playing American 90’s rock (primarily Nirvana)

I hope you enjoyed our tour through Lucca together and consider adding it as your next Italian destination. Below are a couple more pictures to temp you even further…

Buccellatio di Lucca is a typical bread that is eaten year round

Streets of Lucca — We constantly commented on how clean and well maintained the city is

Gelato in Lucca — Julia enjoys some gelato after dinner one night

“Come along for an upcoming post all about a couple restaurants in Lucca!”

Ci vediamo a presto (I’ll see you soon)!

Family Stories, Festivals, Food and Drink, Lombardia, Markets, Travel - Italy, Wine

Wine in the Springtime

April 21, 2014 Greg

Who doesn’t love a good festival? The combination of food, games and fun in an outdoor setting is always guaranteed to be a success. I mean, what more could you ask for? But if the name of the festival is Primavera dei Vini (Wine in the Springtime) and the location is in the remote Italian countryside – then you’ve got all the ingredients you need and more!

Vineyards of Rovescala along our drive into town

The farmers have been producing wine for over 800 years — The farmers have been producing Bonarda wine for over 800 years

If you check Wikipedia to learn about Rovescala, you will discover that this small commune (municipality) is located about 50km southeast of Milan. Aaaaand… basta (stop). That’s it. If you research the festival itself, you’re likely to uncover only two or three short blog posts about it, aaaaaand… basta! So this event is a relatively unknown festival in a small, remote Italian town – why on earth would anyone be interested in going?! Because it’s a relatively unknown festival in a small and remote Italian town, of course! In our experience, these are usually the best gatherings – genuine and unpretentious, just as it should be in Italy.

I was loving the group of Harley riders that rolled into town

Of course, what Italian festival is complete with a collection of Vespa's?! — Of course, what Italian festival is complete with a collection of Vespa’s?!

Every Sunday in March, the residents of Rovescala pull together for the festival meant to celebrate the approaching spring with open air markets, parades, music and games. Of course, what Italian festival would be complete without food and wine as the central theme to the day? With the largest two spaces in town dedicated to either food or wine, you are guaranteed that something delicious will pass your palate. They also had plenty to do for the kids.

They had a face painter for the kids, free of charge - she wouldn't even take a tip — They had a face painter for the kids, free of charge – she wouldn’t even take a tip

Of course, Julia wanted to be a Tiger — Of course, Julia wanted to be a tiger

She proved how scary she was with a growl and scratch with her claw

Jen and her baby Tiger — Jen and her baby tiger

I couldn’t uncover a specific reason for the festival, which is close to approaching its 30th year (many such events are held in the honor of a specific saint or battle or historical element). It is my suspicion that the collections of farmers producing a wonderful and relatively unknown wine worked with the local comune (municipal office) to promote their regional product and boost tourism. While the festival does not pull a large contingent of international visitors, each Sunday in March the town swells to capacity with other Italians living nearby.

Like so many things Italian, the hills surrounding Rovescala are rooted in a tradition that stretches back over eight centuries. The grapes grown for the production of the local Bonarda wines are of a seldom seen variety; the Croatina grape, which is then typically blended with the Barbera grape to make the wine. You won’t discover a finer example of Bonarda wine (not to be confused with the Bonarda Piemontese vine) then you will here in the foothills of the Apennines mountains in our hometown region of Lombardia (Lombardy). This wine website describes the grape,

The mid- to late-ripening grape delivers wines with dark color, gushing fruit, low acidity and soft tannins, often resembling montepulciano or dolcetto in expression.

Before we could get to all the wine tasting, we wanted to fill our stomachs with some food. We discovered that the main pavilion had open table dining, where “neighbors” become friends. In fact, our neighbors were happy to share some of their frog legs with both me and Julia when I asked about them. To say the dining was “organized chaos” is an understatement. But the delicious food, fun neighbors, guitar player and cheap wine (I got a full glass for €1) more than made up for it! The authenticity of the experience was definitely one of these “this is why we moved to Italy” moments.

Inside the pavilion for food - good luck finding a table, we waited about 20 minutes for space — Inside the pavilion for food – good luck finding a table, we waited about 20 minutes for space

We were thrilled when we finally claimed our spot

We lucked out with some great neighbors who were a lot of fun

It was great listening to this guy playing and singing at the next table

After lunch, we strolled past the outdoor vendors displaying their hand crafted goods – anything from homemade grappa to artisanal wooden bowls. We made our way to the main hall where the farmers were eager to showcase their wines. A modest €5 bought me an empty wine glass complete with a nifty case that allowed me to dangle the container from my neck (you know, in case I needed both hands to have a conversation like a true Italian – picture a lot of hand gestures). We befriended, Alessandro Dellafiore – the President of the Pro Loco Rovescala a local organization designed to promote local products. He explained that as long as I didn’t leave the building, I could re-fill my glass any number of times and try as many different wines as my little heart desired. “Jen, buckle up and get comfortable – we’re going to be here a while!“

Merchants sold all type of hand crafted goods

Inside the wine hall - they Julia a wine necklace so she could join in the fun — Inside the wine hall Alessandro gave Julia a wine necklace so she could join in the fun

Julia carefully helps me select my favorite wine

After I had enough liquid courage, I decided that I needed to demonstrate my manliness. I can think of no better way to peacock than to climb a telephone pole in order to slap a leg of prosciutto! I was in luck, as that option was readily available to the brave few willing to try. I waited and watched a half a dozen guys and gals try and fail to reach the top. While I was in line, a kid roughly fifteen years old made it to the top. His effort was rewarded with a bottle of wine. I grinned in admiration of the culture that rewards their youth with a bottle of wine. When it was my turn, I strutted to the pole as if I was Michael Jordan saddling up to the free throw line. I knew it would be no problem to practically fly to the top. That is, until I made my first upward thrust and realized my dress shoes were a major detriment. I nearly slipped coming right out of the gate, but I recovered and found my grove. I made it to the top of the pole in record time and was the only person to receive a large cheer from the crowd and two bottles of wine for my speed (and a bit of showmanship). After I came down, I was pleased to have earned a big hug from Julia in addition to my liquid prize.

It may not have been graceful, but I was the fastest climber of the day

Julia cheers me on - just the encouragement I needed — Julia cheers me on – just the encouragement I needed

At last! I made it to the top and slapped that prosciutto like I've never slapped a prosciutto before! — At last! I made it to the top and slapped that prosciutto like I’ve never slapped a prosciutto before!

Julia ran up and gave me a big hug - that was the best prize — Julia ran up and gave me a big hug – that was the best prize

Of course, a couple bottle of wine isn't too shabby either — Of course, a couple bottles of wine isn’t too shabby either

She did pretty well - she won a generous bag of candy — She did pretty well – she won a generous bag of candy

After the participants all volunteered, the pros took over

We wrapped the day with a little more walking and shopping (we went back to buy some wine as gifts and to add to our cellar). Julia stopped to take a seat and “chat” with some locals in front of their home – I suppose she wanted to practice the Italian art of dolce far niente (the sweetness of doing nothing). All in all – it was a fun day and well worth the time in the car.

Julia is an expert at “dolce far niente” (the sweetness of doing nothing)

Capri, Cruises, Photography, Travel - Italy

No Capri-SUN On The Island of Capri

April 14, 2014 Greg

“The journey should be fun, but if you haven’t learned anything along the way, you’ve not yet reached your final destination.”
-Greg

If you can find Kim Kardashian quotes online, then certainly I should be allowed to try my hand at it!

“Excuse me… did you just try to author a quote – that’s my domain!”

There is a point to that quote however, apart from just trying something new. Our journey abroad has been a wonderful and wild ride. I have had a blast blogging about it and I appreciate all of my readers for tuning in. But more importantly, I’ve learned a thing or two over the past year. As it relates to blogging specifically, I’ve learned a lot. When I look back at my older posts and blogging habits I cringe. I used to spend ages loading photos, and have just recently learned a shortcut that saves me hours. I moved from Blogger to WordPress, which I would equate to a jump from junior high directly to college (my MBA is awaiting the day I can build my own website). I have learned that Top Ten lists and featured images of scantily clad women get you the most page-views. I used to write posts that seemed to go on for days (and you thought I wrote a lot now), but recently I am attempting to keep each post specific to one topic (as opposed to combining multiple cities and multiple food related stories all into one post).

“Tell me about these ‘shorter’ posts, daddy”

“I think it’s a good idea in theory, but let’s see if you can really stick to it!

With this new framework of shorter posts I think the blog tends to be a little cleaner and better organized. Of course, I have given myself a lot more work in the process. When we took our first cruise last summer on Holland America’s Nieuw Amsterdam, I wrote three posts on the matter (HERE, HERE & HERE). However, on our adventure aboard Celebrity Cruises Silhouette, I have written nine posts on the ports (ROME, ROME, FLORENCE, GREECE, MONTENEGRO, CROATIA, VENICE, VENICE, SICILY ) and one on the FOOD… you know, for good measure! While I have enjoyed reliving this memorable trip – I will tell you that I am thrilled to announce this is the final post on the matter! Whew… I think we can both breathe a sigh of relief!

In fact, I think it might even be worth dancing about…

The Julia Boogie

So, let’s get down to business. By now – you’ll know that any cruise two main components. There is the shipboard life and the daily excursions. I’ve usually been able to mix in a little shipboard life in these posts, because that’s as enjoyable to us as any of the sightseeing. What follows are a few photos of our final days at sea, including our last formal night, Julia with her friend Ava and an amazing show that the dance crew put on.

All dressed up for the final “formal” night on the cruise

Trying to get creative with a photo shoot

Julia and her bestie, Ava with the Cruise Director, Patti Honacki

Julia was a big fan of the Executive Chef, Anthony Wilson

The wonderful dance crew performed a “Cirque du Soleil” type performance on the final night

Our final port of call was Naples, a major city in the Campania region of southern Italy. If we had been allowed five days in Naples, we wouldn’t have scratched the surface of this unique area of Italy. For the art and architecture lovers, days can be lost walking around the city of Naples. For the history buffs, you can do no better than exploring the ancient cities of Pompeii and Herculaneum, frozen in time as a result of Mount Vesuvius eruption in 79 AD. For the rich and famous, there is hardly a more popular place to be seen than one of the beach towns along the Amalfi Coast, such as Positano. Of course, if none of that tickles your fancy, you could just simply stop and enjoy a pizza. Naples is credited as the birthplace of pizza and still boasts the title as Heavyweight Pizza Champions of the world (although you may get some argument from other regions in Italy).

The streets of Capri, an island near Naples

We only had a limited amount of time, so picking our daily excursion was next to paramount. I haven’t been faced with a decision this hard since picking my first ride of the day at King’s Dominion. We felt as though just on this cruise alone, we had already seen so many stunning cities and ancient wonders that we would prefer to enjoy the day unplugging while embracing a taste of luxury and beauty. We decided to hop on another boat and set sail for the small island of Capri.

Capri combines stunning manmade and natural beauty

The small island of Capri was blessed with such natural beauty that it was pre-destined to be a paradise hideaway; it has been a resort destination since the time of the Roman Republic. Unfortunately, I don’t have much proof to offer other than a handful of poorly shot photographs. Immediately upon disembarking the ship, we were pelted with rain.

Sadly, this was how we spent most of the day

Part of the main piazza upon taking the funicolare to the top of the mountain

We soldiered on and explored the island until we were finally able to duck into a restaurant for a meal and refuge. In this video, Julia helps me taste my wine at lunch.

The Wine Connoisseur

After lunch, we walked around a bit before throwing in the towel. Cold and wet, we were feeling defeated. We were both sad that our final day turned out to be such a bust, but please don’t let our dark day discourage a visit to Capri. Even through cloudy skies and wet streets, the charm of this island village was not lost on us. We do hope to get back one day… and this time, we’ll stay long enough to enjoy the city of Naples and surrounding attractions.

“I don’t want these cruise posts to end!” (well, Julia… you’re the only one)

Cruises, History, Landscape, Photography, Sicily, Travel - Italy

Michael Corleone Says Ciao to Taormina, Sicily

April 11, 2014 Greg

Sicilia (Sicily) was the birthplace of the original Godfather, Don Vito Corleone; its shores harbored his son, Michael Corleone and recently the island hosted Don Greggorio and his small family. My only disappointment in visiting Sicily was that my wife, Jen wouldn’t let me wear a white suit and hat while walking around passing out fruit like I was Don Vito himself. Oh well, there’s always next time…

The sun rises over Catania, Sicily — The sun rises over Catania. How can you be expected to walk around without a white suit?!

I was so excited to visit Sicily because I’ve wanted to see this unique part of the country for as long as I can remember. This region of Italy is so far south from where we live that I wasn’t sure if we would ever get the opportunity to explore the island while living here. Sicily boasts a plethora of interesting facts that I couldn’t begin to detail in a single post. However, perhaps the most interesting few points are that the island is the largest in the Mediterranean, archeological evidence dates human inhabitants are far back as 8,000 BC and the terrain has changed hands dozens of times (from Greek to Byzantine to Roman and all over again and again).

Ìsula Bedda is local dialect for Isola Bella, or Beautiful Island

While the capital city of Palermo is the largest and most populous on the island, Catania is another popular tourist destination and the port city that received us on our visit. The city also bore nostalgic significance – Catania was the birthplace and home of Jen’s bisnonna (great-grandmother), Rapisardi. Even though there is plenty to do in Catania, we decided to take the hour-long train ride up the coast to Taormina. We were not the first to make this journey – Taormina has been one of the most popular tourist destinations in Sicily since the early 19th century. However, we came at a particularly interesting time. The infamous Mount Etna had just erupted a couple of days before our arrival and evidence of the black soot was everywhere.

The black soot from the explosion of Mount Etna covered the entire area

Julia enjoyed walking on what became a black pathway

We were all fascinated how far the soot traveled, literally blanketing the town

The rapid expansion of Taormina is believed to have begun around 345 BC. It originally started as part of the Greek empire before falling into the hands of the Romans. Today, the city remains high atop the ridges of the coastline, commanding a beautiful (and strategic) view of the sea. Before we could walk her ancient streets, we had to ascend the long and winding roads from the train station. We secured ourselves a cab and helped some other non-Italian speaking tourists get cabs of their own. Since there were more people than cabs, I offered to share our cab with a German couple. I arranged a pick-up time with the same cab driver at a discounted rate. Not only did we get to split the fare, but we got a discount by giving the same guy round-trip business. I’m always happy to find good travel deals!

Taormina has beautiful coastline and wonderful beaches

The city is nestled high atop the cliffs

The city is something truly wonderful to behold

Julia took turns posing with her parents

Once again, Julia was a hit with the other tourists that wanted to hold her and take pictures

Upon arriving in Taormina, we spent some time walking around, soaking up the lovely street scenes. Eventually, we wound our way to the Teatro Antico di Taormina (Ancient Theatre of Taormina). The amphitheater is a fine example of Greek engineering that dates to the seventh century BC. What is most fascinating about this theatre (apart from its spectacular position overtop the Mediterranean) is that the use of brick in its composition hint at Roman construction (an era much later than the seventh century BC). But the design is that of ancient Greece. This architectural style in combination with other archeological elements has unfurled the prevailing theory that the Romans rebuilt the amphitheater overtop an existing Greek theatre. Today, the preservation of this ancient wonder is truly remarkable.

The view as an audience member in the amphitheater

This ancient theatre dates all the way back to the seventh century BC

The design of the theatre is that of ancient Greece

The views from the top of the theatre are remarkable

Julia and I take a picture with the theater behind us — Julia and I take a picture with the theatre and coastline behind us

I'm a lucky guy - Julia gives me a kiss — I’m a lucky guy – Julia gives me a kiss

After quite a bit of time exploring the amphitheater, we strolled through the city streets, marveling at the beauty behind each turn. However, we had more on our minds than just lollygagging. We were bound and determined to try arancini, which are essentially balls of fried rice. Of course, there is oh so much more to it than just that! This local Sicilian treat dates all the way back to the 10th century. The perfectly fried balls of heaven are often times stuffed with ragu, pancetta, cheese or other treats. We got a simple variation, just risotto fried lightly beneath breadcrumbs – we couldn’t be happier with our decision. I’ve included a link to a recipe HERE, although we haven’t tried to make them ourselves yet. We’ve since eaten arancini in other parts of Italy – but it’s never quite as good as it was that day in Sicily.

“Quick, dad – take my picture… photo-op!”

Oranges were in season — Mandarini (mandarin oranges) were in season

Julia found some pigeons that she became friends with

Julia is no stranger to her winged friends

She even made friends with a micino (little kitty)

We took our final walk through Taormina and back toward our departing ship. We had one last port to round out our time at sea – a day in the historic city of Naples.

W got one last look at the beautiful city streets

We barely made it back to the ship before we set sail toward our final destination

Cruises, History, Landscape, Travel - Italy, UNESCO, Veneto, Venice

Murano, Burano & Torcello – The Keys To Unlocking Venice

April 4, 2014 Greg

If you read about our recent trip to Venice (HERE), then you’ll know that we finally unlocked the key to really enjoying Venice. In a nutshell, it involves beating the other tourists to the finish line. If the “finish line” is a guided tour in Palazzo Ducale (Doge’s Palace), then be the first person in line in the morning. If the finish line is grabbing a moment of solace in an empty Piazza San Marco, then you’d better be there as the sun rises (conversely, you can arrive well after the sun has set and listen to the beautiful music of the dueling bands). Or, more simply, you can do what we did; visit this magical city in the off-season and get to know the city of Venezia (Venice) without having to put up a fight.

San Marco Campanile and Doge's Palace seen from the water — San Marco Campanile and Doge’s Palace seen from the water

If you’re blessed with a couple of days in Venice, I would suggest that you go a bit deeper than the surface level attractions. Skip the gondola ride (it’s overpriced anyhow) and instead tour the neighboring islands. With 117 to chose from, you’ll have your pick. You can visit the Jewish Ghetto on the island of Cannaregio. Many of the beautiful parks and gardens on the island of Lido are free of charge to you botany lovers. Or, for the real adventurers, you could opt to wade into the marshes and cast nets with local fishermen near the island of Chioggia.

The Church of San Giorgio Maggiore Church on the island that shares the same name

We knew that we wanted to visit the island Murano and watch how the world-famous Venetian glass was blown. This would require a little preparation and so I enlisted the assistance of a guided tour. I discovered a wonderful website that offers local tours at very reasonable prices – Viator. Travel bugs, take note of that website! It is a great resource for sight-seeing tours in cities all over the world. We will definitely use them again; my only regret was not discovering the website sooner. When searching for a tour of Murano, we found a better option – a tour that also included the islands of Burano and Torcello. You can find the link to our specific tour HERE. I bought my tickets ($28 pp) and had the confirmation sent to my smart phone. I showed up at the designated area, presented the pass on my phone and received our tickets to the boat. Easy, breezy, lemon-squeezy.

The workers were out in the early morning — Venetian workers were out in the early morning

Working on the water here is no different than working on a truck in another city

Before our tour departed the main island, we had enough time in the early morning to drop by Venice’s famous fish market. The Mercato di Rialto (Rialto Fish Market) is in the area affectionately known as Cuore della Città (heart of the city) behind the Rialto bridge. This area by the famous bridge was settled in the 9th century and becoming a booming marketplace by 1097. Today, the fish market still stands as a wonderful place to visit and buy fresh seafood.

We enter the market - the Winged Lion of San Marco warns not to touch — We enter the market – the Winged Lion of San Marco warns not to touch

I wouldn't want to get bit by this guy — I wouldn’t want to get bit by this guy

There was also wonderful looking produce - these are delicious peperoncini — There was also wonderful looking produce – these are delicious peperoncini

A butcher - this one specializes in horse meat, not uncommon to find in Italy — A butcher – this one specializes in horse meat, common to find in Italy

After viewing the market, we wound our way to the tour meeting-point next to San Marco Square. Our four-hour tour included a professional guide, a glass-blowing demonstration in Murano, a hand-crafted lace demonstration in Burano and round-trip transportation to all three islands via boat. I thought the price was very reasonable for all that was included, but truth be told – the price paid for little more than transportation. The guide was impossible to understand over the boat’s roaring engine. All in all, I’m still happy with the deal and it forced us to be back on our cruise ship in time for departure. Nothing like being stranded on a remote Venetian island and watching your cruise ship sail past to ruin your vacation!

Venetian glass, which is more commonly referred to as Murano glass today, is widely recognized as one of the most specialized and beautiful hand-crafted items the world over. Venice emerged as a prominent glass manufacturing center as early as the 8th century. The origins of glass making going back to the Roman Empire when molded glass was used to assist in the illumination of bathhouses. The island gained it’s notoriety when the Venetian glass blowers were all ordered to move their foundries to the island of Murano in 1291, for fear of fire on the main island. By the fourteenth century, the glassblowers were considered among the most elite of Venetian citizens. The closely guarded secrets developed on the island laid the foundation for a glassmaker monopoly on high quality glass that lasted for centuries. Our tour guide explained that even to this day the artisans of Murano are highly trained in this unique skill that is closely monitored by the Glassmakers Guild. Among other things, a Murano glassmaker must be the son of a tenured glassmaker and apprentice for twenty years before being allowed to make his own glass. A “young” glassmaker on the island would be someone who is in his mid forties.

Here he shapes (marver) the glass by rolling it — Here he shapes or “marvers” the glass by rolling it

Next, he “cuts in” to score the piece’s neck

This is where he is “trimming the lip” with shears

Another example of design, he quickly molded a horse

He demonstrated the heat of the piece by simply laying a piece of paper on her neck, which immediately burst into flames

Next, we set sail for Burano, which is known mainly for its painted houses and the church of San Martino’s leaning campanile (bell tower). They also have an established reputation for their creations of lace.

As we sailed toward Burano, we could clearly see the leaning bell tower (in the background)

A better shot of the bellower - it is leaning quite a bit — A better shot of the bellower – it is leaning quite a bit

The painted houses were something to behold

There were canals just like on the main island

The vibrant colors were really something else!

We loved strolling around and taking in all the beauty of the island

Lastly, we finished on the island of Torcello. We were surprised to learn that this was actually the first island to be settled by Venetians, and once held the largest population of the Republic of Venice. Today, you can hardly see evidence of this; the island is so sparsely inhabited that only a few structures remain and the inhabitants number fewer than a couple dozen. The main attraction nowadays is the Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta (Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta) founded in 639 AD.

Torcello was very different from the other islands of Venice proving that each island offers it's own unique beauty — Torcello was very different from the other islands of Venice proving that each island offers it’s own unique beauty

Julia and I walk along the ancient canal in Torcello

Since it was cold, we warmed up with a little vin brulé

Julia and I take a stroll over this bridge

Santa Maria Assunta (left) and Santa Fosca (right)

The historic Santa Fosca church - you can distinguish the Byzantine influence — The historic Santa Fosca church – you can distinguish the Byzantine influence

If you are planning a trip to Venice anytime soon, I would definitely recommend a tour of the peripheral islands. If you discover any other fun places to visit, please drop me a line and let me know!

Drink in Italy With Us