Since the moment my wife Jennifer laid eyes on her baby sister, Jessica, they formed a strong bond that has only developed over time. Sure, Jennifer usually acts more like her mother than her sister and yes, there have been a few lively battles resulting in a couple “boo-boos”, but they are as close as any two sisters I have ever known.
Jen and her younger sister, Jessica overtop Lake Como
That’s why we were thrilled when we learned of a last-minute vacation Jessica planned with her boyfriend, Matt. We were doubly excited because not only were we going to spend time with Jessica, but we were finally going to be able to meet Matt. Living in Italy comes with its obvious benefits, but we do miss out on a lot at home and so we are thrilled any time “home” comes to us.
I picked Matt and Jessica up at the airport and after completing a brief pit stop at home, whisked them to downtown Como. Como is a great first stop for anyone trying to avoid succumbing to jet lag. We walked around the city and rode the finiculare up to one of our favorite spots – Brunate. There, we soaked up the views of the lake and ate a scrumptious lunch at one of our favorite little spots, Bella Vista (Beautiful View).
A picture of Lake Como as we walked aroundFamily photo in front of the lakeMatt and Jess take a picture in front of Lake ComoJulia guides Matt and Jess onto the finiculare headed down from Brunate
We decided that we wanted the next day to be all about authenticity (OK, perhaps I steered the tour in that direction) and so we ascended through the hills of Menaggio, one of our favorite lake towns. I had read about a little rifugio, which literally translated means, refuge or shelter. If you’re talking about a visit to a rifugio for lunch, you’re referring to a place that is far up in the hills, buried deep beneath the trees and usually only known to locals. You need to be prepared to eat in a converted home or even a glorified shack and you certainly shouldn’t expect quality roads (sometimes you have to abandon your car and hoof it). But if you’re willing to brave all that, you will find that they are… fabulous! Apart from really getting a feel of “authentic Italy”, the views and food are almost always worth the journey. La Baita was one of our favorite restaurant experiences in a long time (read my full review with extra photos on TripAdvisor, entitled “Authentic and Delicious”). We enjoyed bresaola (cured meat), homemade pasta served family style and plenty of mouth water roasts. We were so full that we felt like simply rolling back down the hill into town. Of course, by the time we descended into the town of Menaggio, we had all found enough space in our bellies for some gelato.
La Baita – a wonderful rifugio that we will definitely be visiting againWe started with bresaola as our antipastaWe had three different pastas, served family style. We each had our own favoriteThe view from the terrace out backMatt and Jessica take a picture on the terraceMatt shows Julia how to take a great pictureWe strolled around Menaggio, which is one of our favorite lake townsWhat do you call a photo-bomb by a toddler?Julia and I walk the small beachHanging out with the guysPosing with mom by the lake
The following day was Matt’s birthday and so the lovebirds took a boat to Bellagio and spent the entire day exploring the “jewel of Lake Como” on their own. They even went out to a romantic dinner in Lake Como, a place known for their Bistecca alla Fiorentina (nothing says romance like splitting two(+) pounds of perfectly cooked beef). Something about an overtired toddler crashing their dinner didn’t seem appealing to anyone, so we hung back and let them go at it alone. Matt realized that while they were in Bellagio, he had left his camera; so he and I picked up the following morning. I’m sure he’s one of a few people who can boast back to back visits to Bellagio with the second visit lasting less than five minutes. Since the morning was spent traveling to Bellagio and back (it’s an hour each way by car on slow and winding roads) we all decided that a leisurely afternoon BBQ was just what the doctor ordered! We closed the day with drinks in Como, always a surefire hit.
Matt and Jessica before their “date night”Matt and I pulled over for a “selfie” on the way to get his camera. Bellagio is the peninsula behind usMatt and I grilled when we got homeWe cooked some chicken (with American dry rub I smuggled back from my last trip home)Costine (ribs)I asked Julia to watch over the meat for us while we grabbed a drinkGrilled vegetablesInsalata di pomodoro (tomato salad)The table is set and ready for a partyThe gals…
The guys
Drinks in Como after our BBQ
We still had plenty more to do with Matt and Jessica, including a trip to the antique market of Milan and a tour of Bergamo – but each of those are deserving of their own post. Sadly, our time with them felt short, as they left us to visit Rome and Venice on their own; but we were thrilled that we got the chance to meet Matt and glad to see Jessica back in her favorite home away from home… Italia!
I had the pleasure of first sampling this rich and tasty dessert at a friend’s house over the holidays. After my first bite I was hooked and inquired after the preparation of the dish. Luckily, everyone here is happy to share their secrets and pass on tips. First, let me explain, chocolate salami is not salami at all (even though Greg wolfs this dessert down, he has a hard time getting past the name). This simple, no bake dessert only resembles salami. This Italian favorite was originally served around the holidays but now is acceptable any time of year. I think it’s the perfect dessert to serve while entertaining. The best part is that you can prepare it ahead of time and store it in the freezer.
Voilà! A salame di cioccolato (chocolate salami)
INGREDIENTS (serves 8 people)
>One (1) cup of biscotti or dry cookie broken into pieces >Eight (8) ounces of dark chocolate. I used 70% >One (1) stick of high quality butter, softened >Two (2) eggs, very fresh >Half (½) cup of sugar >Quarter (¼) cup, freshly brewed espresso >Confectioners’ sugar, as needed >Chopped nuts optional (I didn’t use them but I think I will try next time)
***RAW EGG WARNING. I have been told you can make this dish without using eggs but I haven’t tried this myself.
Your ingredients
DIRECTIONS
Begin by breaking up the biscotti and setting them aside. Melt the chocolate using a double boiler and stir until there are no lumps.
Break the bits of biscottiDon’t crumble them too much – they’ll need to represent the inside of a salamiTry not to lose any too many of your cookie crumbles in the processUse a double boiler to melt the chocolateThe double boil method is easy and brings the chocolate to a perfect consistency
Stir butter in a large bowl. Continue stirring and add sugar and eggs. Once combined stir in the chocolate and add the espresso. Stir the cookies into the chocolate mixture until well combined.
Combine the wet and dry ingredientsMix thoroughlyIt’s always nice to have a helping handAdd your chocolate and mix wellPour in the espressoSlowly combine your biscotti cookiesStir together and watch little “biscotti thieves”
Place the mixture on a large sheet of wax paper and begin to shape the mixture into a salami by rolling it on your work surface. Tightly secure the ends and place the “salami” in the refrigerator for 8 hours. I continued to roll the salami in the refrigerator so that it wouldn’t become flat on one side.
Roll the mixture in wax paper and form the shapeTie off the ends and set in the refrigerator to form
Remove salami from the refrigerator and unwrap. Cover the salami with confectioners’ sugar using brush. Put the salami on a wooden board when ready to serve.
Chocolate Salami – Enjoy!
This dish should keep in your refrigerator for a maximum or two-three days. It should last in your freezer for about one month. Of course, if you have someone like Greg in your home, there is no way it will last anywhere near that long! Enjoy!
On a particularly warm and sunny day this week, Greg and I and decided to ditch the pasta and opted instead to share a lighter lunch. We all love shrimp (especially Julia) so we decided to try our luck with Shrimp Scampi. I have never made this dish before so I did some research and looked at a few different ways it is prepared. After evaluating the ingredients I had lying around the house, I came up with a simple recipe for my first attempt at this classic dish. I have to say – we were all pleasantly surprised with how it turned out.
Buon Appetito!
I was pleased to see Greg fare la scarpetta, or “to do the little shoe”. This is a term the Italians have come up with that I adore. When you have a delicious sauce that you can’t stand to leave behind, you can use a piece of bread to mop it up. I would encourage you to be sure that you have plenty of good bread for you or your guests to do la scarpetta!
INGREDIENTS (serves two)
>Two (2) teaspoons Olive oil >Juice of half (½) a lemon >Zest of about one (1) lemon >Three quarter (¾) cup of white wine >Three (3) cloves of minced garlic >Two (2) tablespoons of unsalted butter >One-two (1-2) tablespoons of chopped flat leaf parsley >One (1) pound of shrimp >Salt
IngredientsBe sure to prep your ingredients – it will make cooking much easierWe kept the shells on the shrimp
As you can see I used shrimp that was still in the shells. You can also choose to use peeled shrimp. I thought we got good flavor from keeping the shells on though. Either way, make sure your shrimp is clean and dry before putting it in the pan.
Place the shrimp in the pan with a little olive oil
>Place olive oil and two (2) tablespoons of butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat.
>Add the shrimp to the pan and spread them out so they lay flat on the pan bottom.
>While the shrimp is cooking, flavor with salt.
>Cook for one-two (1-2) minutes without moving. Once that side is cooked, mix in the garlic and flip the shrimp.
>Cook for an additional one-two (1-2) minutes or until fully cooked. >Remove the cooked shrimp, set aside and keep warm.
Add the shrimp and spread evenly in the panTurn to evenly brown each shrimpAdd the garlicBe sure to turn as necessary so to not burn the shrimpLooking yummy alreadySet the shrimp aside
>In the same skillet add the wine and lemon juice, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan.
>Allow the liquid to come to a boil and slightly thicken and salt to taste. >Remove from heat and stir in the lemon zest and parsley. Return the shrimp to the pan and mix into the sauce. Serve while hot!
Making the sauce – I would recommend you make extra – it’s that good!Serve and enjoy!
Note: The next time I make this dish I will try to make additional sauce by increasing everything but the shrimp. The sauce was so good, we wanted more!
If you’ve read a couple of our recent Christmas posts, you may notice a consistent theme over and over. We have been thoroughly enjoying the official drink of the season, vin brulé from the markets of Alto-Adige to the lakeside shores of Lugano, Switzerland. I promise you, we are by no means a pair of winos – but I’m pretty sure it’s against the law not to have a vin brulé in your hands as you stroll through the Christmas markets.
Homemade vin brulé
We have been having so much fun thawing the chill from our bones with this delicious winter drink that we thought we should make it at home for ourselves. I have to say, for our first attempt – it was pretty darn good! And since we enjoyed this easy and delicious recipe so much, we decided it was only fair to share it with you. Of course, that meant that we had to go back to the test kitchen and whip up another batch!
What is vin brulé, you ask? You may know it better as mulled wine or glühwein (it is a very common German drink). No matter what you call it – it is basically a red wine heated over a flame, sweetened with sugar and seasoned with spices and fruit. The result is nothing short of perfection. You are sure to find the drink in just about any of the thousands of holiday markets set up all over Europe in December.
Here’s how it is made (follow closely… nah, just kidding. It’s pretty easy).
Ingredients (serving for four)
>1.5 liters of red wine (a lot will cook down)
>1.5 cups of sugar
>4 to 8 cloves
>Nutmeg to taste
>2 cinnamon sticks
>2 mandarins (you can also use a small orange)
Your ingredients – feel free to add or subtract items
The great thing about the ingredients for this recipe is that they don’t have to be exact. You can use what you have lying around. If you like more nutmeg flavor – go ahead and add it. This is completely based on personal preference.
Directions
>Slice some of the citrus peels and set them aside
>Grate the zests of one of the manderian and add to a pot with the sugar, cloves, cinnamon and citrus peels
>Add about one cup of the wine and cook on a high heat until everything blends together. This will create a thick almost syrup like liquid that is infused with tones of Christmas flavor. You don’t want to use all of your wine because cooking it at this high heat will burn off the alcohol
>Add the remaining wine and reduce the heat to a low simmer
>Serve and enjoy!
Add the ingredients
Add one cup of the wine
Cook over a high heat
There you have it! Easy and delicious!
We wanted to be sure to post this recipe on Christmas, with the hope that you make this delicious and easy drink on your own today or tonight. You have our personal guarantee that it will increase your festive cheer by 19.6%. That’s 4.6% higher than the next best thing… not getting underwear in your stocking.
Can you believe that they don’t celebrate Thanksgiving here in Italy?! They also don’t celebrate the Fourth of July, Memorial Day or Labor Day! I know weird, right?!
Our Thanksgiving table is set
Thanksgiving is one of my favorite holidays. Of course I love the spirit of Christmas, the fun costumes of Halloween (another holiday that they don’t really celebrate), the fireworks of our Independence Day… but nothing can match the guilt-free ability to gorge on delicious food all…day…long! And if that wasn’t good enough, you are then permitted… nah, encouraged to lay on your duff and watch football until it’s time to re-heat a plate of leftovers.
Julia was Superwoman for Halloween this year –
even though she was one of few kids dressed up
We knew that we weren’t going to give up our tradition of Thanksgiving just because we are living in another country. In fact, we were excited to share our holiday and traditions with Jen’s relatives. Ideally, we would have eaten our Thanksgiving dinner along with the other people in America (well, six hours ahead anyway) – but we will be out of town during the holiday. So we decided to host our Thanksgiving dinner early. Before we could take our first bite of that delicious dinner, we needed to plan a menu. And if you’ve ever been around my wife when she plans an event… if we have an official menu, then we’ll also need an official outline for the entire week leading up to the event.
I had many small jobs, but the most important – procurement of the bird and selecting the wine. For the turkey, I went to our local macelleria (butcher shop), Macelleria Ostinelli. You see, you cannot just go down to the supermarket and pick up a whole turkey. It simply doesn’t exist here. Italians eat turkey, but they are either quartered or filleted – never sold whole. In fact our macellaio (butcher), Marco had to call his “turkey guy”, Lorenzo just to confirm that they could even have a whole turkey delivered within three days. It was the first whole turkey Marco had ever sold in 20+ years of being a butcher. We got the green light from Lorenzo and went home to continue planning.
Inside Macelleria Ostinelli
Our macellaio (butcher), Marco prepares our turkey
His son, Paolo and niece, Francesca
“Cook me like one of your French turkeys, Jack”
The turkey was so fresh that it was still red… and needed a few extra feathers plucked
The wine was a much more complicated process. I went into a wine shop I’ve been wanting to try; one just outside of downtown Como. The selections of fine Italian wine seemed endless. I chose three wines that are classified as Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG), a designation that connotes some of Italy’s best-known and highest quality wine.
A trio of wine from all over Italy
I opted to start our meal with a Barbaresco (having recently come back from Piemonte). I picked a 2003 Vigneto Loreto from Albino Rocca – a producer that obtains their [nebbiolo] grapes from the finest area in the region. I thought that the balanced flavor profile of this Barbaresco would do nicely to awaken our palates.
2003 Barbaresco Abino Rocca, Vigneto Loreto
For our second wine, I selected a 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. Tuscany is known for many things and their wine is nothing short of spectacular. Agostina Pieri produces a fine example of the wine that incorporates one of my favorite Italian grapes, Sangiovese. The bold flavors would serve as a nice progression from the more tannic and refined Barbaresco.
2008 Brunello di Montalcino Agostina Pieri
Finally, I wanted a wine to shout from the rooftops – so I chose a big, bold Amarone della Valpolicella. Jen and I were just recently introduced to this type of wine by my uncle, and it was love at first taste. A unique harvest and fermentation process yield a ripe, raisiny and full-bodied wine that jumps across your tongue and waltzes with your tastebuds. How could this not be the perfect wine to finish the afternoon?! Cantina di Soave produces a wonderful Amarone, Rocca Alata.
Amarone Cantina di Soave, Rocca Alata
The night before our guests arrive, I helped Jen set the table. Well, I mainly played defense against Julia while Jen set the table. I let her get a goal past me the next day when she ripped up part of the bouquet just before our guests arrived!
Jen’s table
We used seasonal flowers as part of the decoration
A place setting
A napkin before it got messy with delicious food
Center bouquet
Julia got to the other bouquet – I love her look as if to say, “I didn’t do it”
Jen had perfectly timed the turkey to come out and rest next to all of our antipasti. I am willing to bet that we hosted one of the few thanksgiving dinners in the world to start with olives, grissini (Italian breadsticks), salami and parmigiano. Our 7.4 kg (16.3 lb) turkey was quite the showstopper as Jen’s Italian relatives walked in. It was one of the first times ever that I have seen Italians take out their cell phones to take pictures of food. For them, food should be eaten – not photographed (I’ve been called, pazzo more than once). So it was quite a reward for all our hard work to see jaws dropped and cell phones flashing.
Our welcome table
The turkey came out moist and delicious
36-month aged Parmesano cheese and olives
Speck and salami
Grissini
Let’s get the party started
Let’s get the wine decanted…
This is going to be good
After proscecco and antipasti, we each took turns taking family photos on the balcony. I’m glad that Jen suggested this – it gave each family a nice keepsake from a pleasant afternoon.
My girls
Love this peanut
Gianni and Giusi along with their son Marco and daughter Sara
Massimo and Alessandra with their daughter Bea
You know this cast – Greg and Jen with our daughter, Julia
Franco and Claudia – Franco actually smiles for a photo!!
We eventually made our way to the table for our first course, a squash soup with parmesano croutons.
Now we’re ready to really dig in
A drizzle of fine olive oil enhances the taste and presentation
Franco took a picture of the soup as well as the turkey – this was a first!
Next, we brought out all the food. We had the stuffing (I had to explain it as “cooked bread”). We had mashed the potatoes. We had the gravy – “questa è una salsa” (this is a sauce). Pouring a “sauce” over everything was definitely a foreign concept. Claudia made the vegetables – green beens and a ratatouille. And of course, we had the turkey. A roasted lemon sage turkey that was delicious. I explained that the goal was to cram your plate so full that none of the plate was visible. Jen’s cousins Gianni and Marco understood the goal… no one else quite got it. We went around the table to say what we were most thankful for and dug in.
A plate of the carved turkey
Claudia’s vegetables
Jen’s stuffing
My plate – a proper American Thanksgiving plate
Franco’s plate – he didn’t quite get the idea to cover it
Alessandra plays around with Bea, who has likely never seen a turkey leg
Gianni brought a delicious wine that we opened
We never even finished my selections
When we had finally finished eating our dinner, it was time for dessert. Jen made a wonderfully American apple pie. Her cousins Alessandra and Giusi were surprised when she told them that she made her own pie crust from scratch. When they tasted it, they both immediately asked for the recipe (which secretly filled me with pride for my wife). Giusi was so cute, she literally took out a notepad, ready to write – Jen had to promise to work on the measurement conversions and translation and email it at a later date. Equally as impressive was the torte (pie) that Alessandra made. Jen’s birthday had just passed and so she added a surprise element to the dessert. It tasted every bit as good as it looked.
Jen’s apple pie
Alessandra’s torte
I have to say – Jen’s first Thanksgiving Dinner was A-M-A-Z-I-N-G!! There were no hiccups, very little stress and it was absolutely delicious!
Of course, we finished the day off with grappa and whiskey and the most important part of Thanksgiving… a game of football on the television. Only, it wasn’t a game. It was a match. And it wasn’t football. It was fùtbol (soccer). Oh well, you work with what you’ve got.
Our grappa and whiskey
Teenaged girls are the same in any country
Julia puts on a performance
Jen did Sara’s hair – I thought she looked beautiful
Soccer plays on the TV – not quite the football game I’m used to after a Thanksgiving dinner
I hope you enjoyed!
In case you’re interested in viewing the menu that Jen created, I copied and pasted her menu (and then, without her permission… her outline)! Shhhh, don’t tell.
It’s likely that you may think I’ve gone off my rocker. Vinegar on a salad – of course. Vinegar on french fries – sure. But vinegar on ice cream?! Greg, you must be crazy?! I assure you, I am not (well, at least when it comes to this point). Provided one very important detail is in play… that the vinegar used is aged balsamic vinegar from Modena. This dark, delicious treat becomes sweet and thick (almost, syrupy) once it has been aged 12(+) or 25(+) years.
Old fashioned equipment used to make vinegar now stands as decoration
I have been a fan of all things vinegar for as long as I can remember. Admittedly, a strange condiment choice (above ketchup or mayonnaise) – but the heart wants what the heart wants. Although we use apple cider vinegar every single day, I have always been quite fond of balsamic vinegar. Just the right amount can add the perfect hit of acid to round out a caprese salad. However, I recently learned that I have become accustomed to eating the equivalent of a McDonald’svalue meal when a readily available filet mignon was just around the corner. But let’s back up and find out how I discovered this…
Julia stand by an old grape press
She’s a curious little girl
One of the barrels used for aging
Villa San Donnino has been a family run business for three generations
When my aunt Deborah and uncle S came to visit, we ventured on a road trip to the Emilia-Romagna region of Italy. If you read that particular post, you learned that Emilia-Romagna is widely known for two things – cars and food. One of the most significant contributors to the food column is the aged balsamic vinegar that is produced exclusively in Modena. On our final day of the road trip, we arranged for a private tasting with a local producer, Villa San Donnino. Jen had learned that a tour and tasting at Villa San Donnino was one of the top-rated attractions on Trip Advisor. Once again, our favorite online guide for all things travel hit a home-run.
The driveway leading toward the villa
The villa of, Villa San Donnino
The important aging process begins here, in these barrels
Not only did the overall experience exceed our expectations – it raised the bar for what events like this should be all like over the country. The owner and third generation producer, Davide greeted us warmly and took us into the portion of the property where the vinegar is aged. He first gave us a brief explanation of the vinegar itself. It was summarized nicely in a marketing brochure I took from the villa, so I will copy the text below:
Davide explains the rigorous balsamic making process
Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena is unique from all other vinegar based condiments. Unlike ordinary vinegar which has its origins in an alcoholic liquid, balsamic vinegar is produced directly from grape juice. Grapes, harvested in the region in which balsamic vinegar is produced, are crushed and their liquid – “must” – is boiled in an open vat over a fire. This liquid is then placed in a high quality wooden barrels in which, through an oxidation process, it is transformed into vinegar. The barrels are kept in a vinegar loft – acataia – where over a number of years, the precious liquid inside is lovingly cared for through a special technique involving transfers and topping up. Over many years macrobiotic and enzymatic modifications unite to achieve an exceptional balance in the fragrance and flavor.
As we climbed the stairs to the acataia (vinegar loft) we were first greeted by the unique and pleasant aroma permeating throughout the loft. Davide began to explain the aging process, having already described that his balsamic vinegar juice comes exclusively from grapes on his property. In order to properly age vinegar, you must use a batteria, a series of five or six barrels that descend in size. A process of “topping” off from the larger barrels into the subsequent smaller barrels is done over many years in order to replace evaporated liquids. Since the last, smallest barrel is the object from which the final contents are removed for bottling – there is no way to identify a specific amount of time in the barrels (i.e. twelve years). Because the liquids have been mixed from the larger barrels over many years, a unique system of labeling was created. A balsamic vinegar that was aged for 12 years will have been aged for at least twelve years (meaning, that 12 years is the youngest portion allowed in that mixture). The same is true for 25 years and the extremely rare 50 year vintages.
A batteria, aging the vinegar
Another room with a different collection of barrels
This reserve vinegar has been aging since 1972
As Davide was explaining the process, we all noticed that he acquired a little two-foot groupie. Our little Julia seemed more than just enamored with Davide, she fell head over heels for him! She kept asking him to pick her up and would require his attention at almost every point hereafter. It was hard for Davide to focus on the remainder of his tour, when at each turn he would hear a little voice saying, “Davide… hold me!” If she liked him this early on in the tour, she loved him when he brought out the gelato (ice cream) for us to try.
Davide with S and Deborah
Julia holds Davide close for a photo
Davide brings Julia in to taste the vinegar with ice cream – she wouldn’t let him go
You see, as I mentioned earlier, aged balsamic vinegar has a wonderfully sweet taste with a somewhat thick consistency. It pairs wonderfully with fruit (melon, strawberries), meat (a nice hearty steak), cheese (a few drizzles over parmigiano) and especially ice cream!* In order to prove this point, Davide had arranged a tasting – a “flight” of vinegars, if you will. We started with a store-bought, uncertified vinegar. It was not good. Then we moved onto his white vinegar before climbing the ladder through his 12 year and on to the 25 year. Each one was more magical than the last. When he drizzled it on the ice cream, we couldn’t believe how well it paired. Julia was such a fan of the vinegar that she didn’t want anything to do with the ice cream, and just wanted more vinegar! This is one Italian baby!
A display set, ready for us to taste
Davide explains the differences of the vinegars to an enamored fan
“Let the tastings begin!”
Davide gave us a very informative and interesting lesson
Julia did not want to miss her turn tasting
She loved the vinegar of Villa San Donnino
“More please!”
The vinegar coats the ice cream like a sweet syrup
Davide drizzles the vinegar for the rest of the group
As the tour wound down, Davide was starting to feel more like a family member than someone we had just met. Each couple bought some of his wonderful aged balsamic. Jen and I got some to use here in Italy and some for when we move home (unlike olive oil, the vinegar can last for many years in the bottle). I think S and Deborah bought his entire supply, including an affinato (aged 12+ years), an extravecchio (aged 25+ years) and the riserva (aged 50+ years). I think I’ll risk facing ten years in prison to smuggle home a wheel of parmigiano-reggiano cheese if S will promise to drizzle some of his riserva on it!
Julia helps Davide ring her father up
S and Davide take a picture with his new 50 year Riserva
All of a sudden, we all heard, “anche io” (“me too” or “so do I)
Julia didn’t want them taking a picture without her
Davide holds Julia for a hug
Julia gives Davide a big hug
When we had completed the tour and acquisition of our newfound condiments, Davide did something that I suspect he doesn’t do for most tour groups. He offered to open his private home to us, the villa pictured in the brochure. This villa was acquired by his grandfather in the 1940’s and has stayed with the family ever since. In fact, the villa itself plays an integral role in the history of Acetaia Villa San Donnino. After acquiring the property, his grandfather happened upon a barrel used for making vinegar and so he thought he would “give it a try”. Over seventy years later, the family is still making vinegar in the traditional way. Davide explained that to be included in the small fraternity of roughly 80 producers in the world… you must have time, patience and a passion that cannot be taught. The tour of his home was simply amazing, jaw dropping examples of art and collectables abound around each corner. It was no wonder that Bernardo Bertolucci chose this location to film part of his movie, 1900, staring a young Robert DeNiro and Gérard Depardieu.
Everyone prepares to go into Davide’s home
Quite a grand entrance
The ceiling above the staircase
Stunning artwork adorns nearly every wall
The stairwell from the second floor
A collection of smaller original prints frame an antique desk nicely
A stairwell leads to an annex full of glass pieces
If this dining room could talk… I can’t imagine the history it’s seen. Robert DeNiro, for starters…
This was one of the more beautiful chandeliers I’d ever seen
As the sun was setting on a long and wonderful day, we bid Davide a fond farewell and Julia tossed her new friend many many kisses. We will definitely come back to see Davide again and re-stock our balsamic vinegar; if you find yourself anywhere near Modena, I suggest you pay him a visit as well!
*These are just a few of the wonderful uses for the condiment. While there are many, many uses for aged balsamic – most applications require a unique understanding of the complexities of this liquid gold. Since it is very expensive and can also overpower a dish with careless use, it is recommended that you do a quick bit of research before adding to your next dish.
Living in Italy grants us access to a lot of great restaurants. We fully take advantage of that and eat at… a lot of great restaurants. I recently read that 75% of the food in Italy is great and 25% of the food is exceptional. I would agree with that – most meals leave you feeling completely satisfied and pleased with the overall experience. But occasionally, you’ll find yourself “mmm’ing” and “aahhh’ing” with more delight than you intended to express aloud.
We can usually spot these exceptional places before we’ve walked in the door. We may have heard about the joint from a friend or relative. It’s possible I’ve read about it on the internet or a travel book. Or sometimes, we just walk into a place and the intense amount of “old-world charm” smacks us in the face. We’re greeted by a little nonna (grandma) who then scurries to the back to cook our meal – and we just know that we are in for a treat. Since it is usually one of those three paths that lead to our exceptional meals, I had all but dismissed, Osteria da Clo’ Filomena when we made our reservation. The reason for the swift dismissal, you ask? Well, the restaurant was in our B&B, in a remote part of Emilia-Romagna, surrounded by nothing by small villages and towns. I’m usually quick to dismiss restaurants in hotels anyway, with a few exceptions. Furthermore, the place was empty. I wasn’t surprised, because it would probably be a 20-30 minute drive for most patrons to arrive. I assumed that the restaurant was in place, merely to service the guests of the hotel and therefore had to serve mediocre food (which, if you remember still falls into the 80% “great” category).
The Osteria at night – the outdoor patio is used in the spring
The ristorante opened in 1954
I am happy to say that I have never been so wrong! And we weren’t the only ones in on the secret – by the time we left, the place was nearly full. People had been coming in from [presumably] all over – from towns and villages several miles away. The waiters, two young men (I regret not getting their names) were very helpful and pleasant. Our server spoke fluent English, but indulged me and kept the conversation in Italian until I really needed the help on a word or two.
Our group decided that we would order several dishes and that we would be generous with each other when it came time to share. There were too many things to taste to keep each dish all to ourselves. Our group? Four weary travelers (and a baby past her bedtime), comprised of myself and Jen as well as my aunt Deborah and uncle S, visiting from the States (read about their trip HERE and HERE).
Antipasti
For the antipasti (appetizer), each couple elected to order the:
Creme Brulè ai Quattro Formaggi con Porcini e Balsamico
Four Cheese Creme Brulè with Porcini Mushrooms and Balsamic Vinegar
This dish was so tasty, we asked what the four cheeses were so that we could attempt to recreate it at home
Primi Piatti
For our primo (first course), each couple shared a pasta:
Tagliatelle ai Fungi Porcini (S and Deborah)
Tagliatelle Pasta with Porcini Mushrooms
Dishes with porcini mushrooms were among the restaurant’s specialties
Tagliatelle al Ragù alla Bolognese (Greg and Jen)
Tagliatelle Pasta with a Meat Ragù
Jen and I like to try classic examples of Bolognese – it is a dish that has subtle changes across various regions of Italy
Secondi Piatti Tipici
For our secondo (main course), each couple shared once again:
Spezzatino Rosso di Cinghiale con Tigelle (S and Deborah)
Red Stew of Boar with Tigelle Tigelle is a bread that looks like a small pancake, local to the region
Grigliata Mista di Maiale (Greg and Jen)
Mixed Grill of Pork
This is a fairly common dish throughout Italy, but this was superior to most – perfectly seasoned and tender
Contorni
For our side dishes we selected:
Funghi Porcini Grigliata (a seasonal dish)
Grilled Porcini Mushrooms
This dish is only served during “mushroom season” (September, October, November)
Verdure alla Griglia
Grilled Vegetables
A simple and healthy selection from the grill
Dolce
For me, dessert is usually the weakest part of the meal – I was proved wrong once again. I had to tell myself over and over that it was impolite to pick my plate and lick the remaining chocolate residue. We all shared:
Creme Brulè
Creme Brulè
As delicious as it looks
Torta al Cioccolato di Lave
Chocolate “Lava” Cake
Jen had to restrain me from licking the plate
Torta di Pistacchio
Pistachio Cake
I’m not a huge pistachio fan, so it came as no surprise that this was my least favorite of the trio
We were fortunate to have found, Osteria da Clo’ Filomena as a byproduct of first discovering the hotel in which we were staying, La Locanda Gli Ulivi. From what I could gather, the restaurant was established first, in 1954 – and is still the main draw on the property. The hotel is a charming B&B, set just far enough away from Modena and Bologna that you can’t help but become immersed in the nature and hills of vineyards.
The rolling vineyards behind Osteria da Clo’ Filomena
In the summer, a small waterfall cascades on the patio as diners eat under a setting sun and in the winter the fireplace is always glowing – warming the patrons next to the chestnut wood tables. If you stay at the hotel, you can expect a breakfast as delicious as the one pictured below.
Eggs, made to order
Perfectly cooked with delicious pancetta
Cappuccino con doppio espresso (cappuccino with double espresso)
Next time you’re in Emilia-Romanga, stop by and have a meal. Be sure to tell everyone that we said, “ciao!”
Before I’ve even written the first word of this post, my OCD brain is trying to figure out if this post should be categorized under the “Food” or the “Travel” sections of the blog. I will be taking you along with us on our travel adventure to go eat some of Italy’s best food. It’s quite the dilemma…
A selection of salumi (cold cuts), formaggi (cheese) and the cinghiale (boar) that gave his life to the cause
You may have read about part of our visit with Aunt Deb and Uncle S where we ventured into the wine region of Piemonte during the first portion of their visit. Their two week sojourn in Italy included a mission to explore the best of what the country has to give. It was no coincidence then, that their adventure had been neatly divided into three of the country’s best offerings. Part I was Vino (wine). Party II was Cibo (food) – the subject of today’s post. Lastly, Part III was Storia (history). Since they experienced the rich history of Pompeii and Venezia on their own, I will let them tell you all about it at their next dinner party. I’ll simply report on the parts during which we were present… and luckily for us, we were present for a three day trip into Italy’s richest “food region”, Emilia-Romagna.
“Now I’m hungry – let’s eat!”
I always laugh when I speak to Italians about their trips to the United States. Before they even tell me, I know that they’ve been to New York City and then Miami (bypassing Washington DC; a detail they don’t want to admit but one that I always extract). If they’re fortunate enough to have a lengthy stay, they will then travel to Las Vegas on their way to Los Angeles. Occasionally, they may venture up the coast to San Francisco before returning home. That’s it. Every. Single. Time. Heck, I don’t blame them – they were raised in large part on American cinema, and that’s what most Europeans see as the sum total of the United States – New York and LA. And of course, who wouldn’t want to throw a trip to Vegas in the mix?! Likewise – it is the same for Americans coming here. Where do we go? Rome. Milan. Venice. Tuscany (Florence and Pisa) and occasionally the Italian Riviera if there’s time. But there is so much of this country that is left undiscovered (I feel like we travel non-stop and we still haven’t gotten a flavor of more than 10% of Italy). One region in particular that is largely overlooked is Emilia-Romagna. Heck, I’m willing to bet you probably haven’t even heard of it! But there are a few things that I know you know. You’ve heard of Ferrari, Lamborghini and Maserati. They’re all produced here, in Emilia-Romagna. Or aged balsamicvinegar? That also comes from here, in Modena. What about parmigiano reggiano (parmesan cheese)? Or prosciutto? I’d be wiling to bet that you’ve even heard of Ferrara chocolate. With culinary delights like these, it’s no wonder that Emilia-Romagna is often considered the “heart” of Italian cuisine.
Vineyards in Emilia-Romagna
S studies the frame of his photograph
The colors at this time of year were stunning
Julia takes a stroll and soaks up all that Emilia-Romagna has to offer
On our first day, we stopped in Parma (of Proscuitto di Parma fame) to begin our culinary escapade. We started small – just panini (sandwiches) at the most popular sandwich place in northern Italy, Pepèn. I was not at all surprised to learn that this tiny shop that has been around for over 200 years does not have a website. I think that they figured out the perfect panino (sandwich) somewhere in the past 100 years and have unabashedly decided not to change a thing since (earning them a #1 rating out of 430 restaurants reviewed on TripAdvisor – although calling it a “restaurant” is a stretch). Uncle S and I crowded into the tiny restaurant and I told the sandwich maestro to give us a mixture of some of his favorite concoctions. We awoke our taste buds with succulent porchetta, life-changing salsiccia crudo (raw sausage) and mind-altering gamberi piccanti (spicy shrimp) – all on perfectly toasted buns (these were just some examples of our sandwiches – we got many more to share). Since the place doesn’t really have any seats, we camped out on the steps of Chiesa Cattolica Parrocchiale San Pietro (St. Peter’s Catholic Church Parish) in Piazza Garibaldi Giuseppe to enjoy our delectable treats.
Pepèn is hidden on a small side street – you have to know where you’re going to get there
These two guys have been making panini in this crowded little shop for many years
One package of our delicious panini
We camped out on the stairs of the church to eat our lunch
Julia escorts Deborah and me into the Cattedrale di Parma
Amazing frescoes adorned every single wall in the church
The paintings on the wall were so lifelike I was mesmerized
The ceiling amazed all of us inside the Cathedral
The Baptistery of Parma, commissioned in 1196 by the city counsel of Parma
After a complete and rewarding day in Parma, we drove the forty five minutes to our B&B, just outside of Modena. After researching for many hours, we had booked a stay at, Locanda Gli Ulivi because it was centrally located to the places we would be visiting and has a wonderful online presence (great reviews and photos across our most reliable travel websites). We were not disappointed with the place – it was simply wonderful. Since we were weary road warriors on that first day, we decided to eat at the hotel’s restaurant, Osteria Clo ‘Filomena that night. Since the food was so wonderful and I was able to capture a picture of each course, I’ll complete a separate post about that meal.
Locanda Gli Ulivi
“Come on in…”
Our backyard
The pool
A nice place for a picnic
View from immediately across the room
Same place, looking to the right
An olive tree at night inside the property
An old church across the street, lit up by the purple sky of early evening
The next day, we departed with our sights on the largest city and capital of Emilia-Romagna, Bologna. To most Americans, bologna is a processed meat (that you either love or hate) sandwiched between two pieces of good ol’ fashioned white bread. In the States, we named “our” bologna after the city that is a major producer of mortadella – a staple meat of Bologna (and very similar – but much, much tastier than “our” bologna). My bologna has a first-name, and it’s…”send this back and bring me a slice of mortadella, please!”. To most Europeans, Bologna is much more than just a processed meat. It is a university town. Home to the oldest university in the world, University of Bologna, founded in 1088. Today, the university accepts students from all over the world – eager to complete a full program, or just a study abroad in the seventh most populated city in Italy. We walked around all day, stopping for a wonderful lunch at Cesari – a selection from S and Deb’s Fodor’s guidebook. The gang at Fodor’s know what they’re doing, it was a wonderful place.
Cesari was as delicious as it was charming
“Hey… we recognize that wine”
(from a tasting we did at Cantina di Borgogno a few days earlier)
We spent more time walking though this historically significant and important city, before ducking into a building with a much more modern vibe. Eataly is the brainchild of Oscar Farinetti; a store that is a proud Italian marketplace, selling the best ingredients and offering access to goods that are otherwise hard to acquire on a massive scale (imagine a Whole Foods on steroids that just sells Italian products). Even though Oscar opened his flagship 30,000 sq. ft store in Torino in 2007, the company really took off with locations around the world (including New York City) when B&B Hospitality Group (Mario Batali and Joe Bastianich) became a partner. Admittedly, the Bologna location was very underwhelming in size and scale (especially compared to the unique Torino store) – but we were still able to acquire some wonderful salumi (variety of cured meats) and formaggi (cheeses). That night, we procured reservations at the the most exclusive table in all of Italy – we had a little picnic in S and Deb’s room.
A statue stands near the University of Bologna
Julia becomes taken with a small group of performers
She takes a shot at playing – she started with some Mozart
Julia made a friend in the main piazza
Inside Eataly, our friend helps us select the best meats and cheeses for our picnic
S takes his job selecting for the group very seriously. Good thing he did, we had a wonderful meal
He cuts us a hard cheese
After our visit to Eataly, we needed a little coffee
I just thought this window was interesting
As well as this ancient building
The table is set
Our salumi (meats)
S and Deb are about to dig in with us
Our final day in Emilia-Romagna was no less packed with activities than the first two. We had scheduled a visit to the Museo di Ferrari (Ferrari Museum), exploration of Modena (with a stop for lunch) and a balsamic vinegar tasting. Car enthusiasts the world over can appreciate a visit to the “mecca of all things automotive”. This is what Modena can offer you – Ferrari and Maserati all have their factories within a few kilometers of the city (Lamborghini moved their headquarters from Modena to Bologna). Ferrari chose to name one of their models after the city itself (Ferrari Modena 360). We chose to learn a little bit about the legacy of Enzo Ferrari himself, one of the world’s truest visionaries. The museum did not disappoint….
Museo Ferrari in Maranello
“Welcome to paradise!”
An old Ferrari 166 F2
This classic symbol is at the heart of most men’s desires
1966 Ferarri 330 P3
1954 Ferrari 750 Monza
F1 Constructors’
Formula 1 World Champion 2008
Julia and I sure felt like champions
The heart that powers the machine
2013 Ferrari 458 Speciale
These babies can grip – Pirelli is the tire of race professionals
Concept car of the future
This is a clay model – what they use to construct a concept in the early stages of development
After soaking up all things, Ferrari – I drove us (albeit, much slower than a Ferrari could have gone) to the center of Modena. The town itself is a wonderful place, certainly worthy of a daily visit. It is believed that the city was already in existence by the 3rd century. Here in the 21st century, we lucked out and caught an open air market in the center of town. We were also treated to a marching band that passed us twice as we strolled through the city.
Main piazza in Modena – a street fair had been set up
Julia runs through the city
The streets of Modena were beautiful
S and Julia sit by their new friend
Meanwhile, these two are deep frying pig skins
Crispy, delicious and probably 130% fattening
S bought some prune jam – here he is bottling the jar for S
A marching band happened to pass through as we were in the market
Walking through the city again – there are a lot of pedestrian streets in Modena
Family photo
We ran into the marching band a second time
The day passed by [too] quickly and we had to bid a fond farewell to Modena – we had an important event coming up later that afternoon. A tasting at one of Modena’s finest producers of aged balsamic vinegar – Acetaia Villa San Donnino. Since it was such a fun and noteworthy event, I will post about it separately. After our trip back from Emilia-Romagna, S and Deborah took off for Pompeii and just a few days later, we were hugging our goodbyes. It’s amazing how quickly time time goes when you are filling it with great food and wine!
I know this is Jen’s Kitchen, but I’m sorry to report that you’ve got me (Greg) writing this one. This area of the blog is Jen’s domain – but she was having trouble getting her writing juices going, so I offered to give her a hand (her timing in the kitchen may be pure perfection, but if I don’t get this post going, it’s sure to be over-cooked).
Jen shows of her tomatoes
I may not know a lot, but I have learned two things while living in Italy:
First, every home has two types of olive oil. They all have the generic store bought one (that’s still delicious) for cooking and salads as well as the “special” olive oil that is pressed by someone’s nonno in some small town in the mountains somewhere…
Second, (along the same vein) every home has homemade passata (tomato purée) that is either fatto in casa (made in house) or gifted by a friend of family member. Why the homemade passata, you ask? And what the heck is passata to begin with?! Well, let’s travel back several thousand years to a time when food was seasonal, fresh and delicious. In the time of the ‘hunters-gatherers’ people would eat whatever they could get – whatever was walking around and growing nearby that time of year. They quickly learned that proper storage of proteins (those delicious saber-toothed tigers) was an important part of surviving the winter. Fast forward to the early 19th century and technological advances allowed people to store fresh vegetables alongside their meat and fish. Since Italians love to cook with fresh, unaltered flavors – the benefit of having access to tomatoes year round was paramount. Grazie, Louie Pasteur for your contribution to Italian cuisine. So, the passata that we are talking about, is simply a puréed tomato that is jarred and stored in the cupboard for use throughout the winter.
Our freshly jarred passata
Many recipes call for a tomato purée including soups, stews, sauces and dishes that require a tomato flavor (Jen’s easy and delicious marinara recipe). Most of the tomato purée sold in the US is processed and has a different consistency than passata. While that type of purée also has it’s purpose in Italian cooking, you can’t be without freshly jarred passata. At the end of the “tomato season” (early fall) all the grocery stores and fruit stands recognize this fact, and sell crates of San Marzano tomatoes for (in this case, we bought Roma tomatoes).
Here’s how you do it:
Equipment >Canning jars and lids (the ones that have the little “pop” and can be sealed)
>Several large pots
-One to boil the tomatoes
-One to puree the tomatoes
-One to boil the jars in order to seal them
>A passaverdura (vegetable mill)
>Funnel to pour the purée
>Kitchen dishtowels to separate the jars (in order to prevent breakage)
Ingredients
>The best tomatoes that you can find (Jen’s preference is San Marzano)
>Basilico fresco (fresh basil)
>Coarse salt (the kind you would use in pasta water)
*Note – the ratio of tomato to passata roughly 2 to 1 (so for 10lbs of passata, you’ll need 20lbs of tomatoes)
Get the freshest tomatoes you can find
It’s always a benefit if you have a willing helper
We have basil growing on our balcony
Steps
>Clean and sterilize your jars (run them through your dishwasher)
>Put on your husbands nasty old painting tee-shirt; you will get messy
Clean any bruised or damaged tomatoes
>Place the tomatoes in the pot, cover with water
Place your tomatoes in a pot and cover with water
>Add salt to the water (you’ll need 7 teaspoons of salt for 20 pounds of tomatoes)
>Cover pot and bring water to boil
>Once water boils, remove lid and let simmer for 15 minutes
>Remove tomatoes and place into the vegetable mill (which will rest over another large pot)
Place the tomatoes in the mill
>Grind tomatoes through the mill, which remove the skins and seeds
You can see the entire station set up here – it’s quite the process
This one was a pro managing her assembly line
The passata once it has been strained through the passaverdura (mill)
>Now you’re jarring begins – place 3 fresh basil leaf in the bottom of each jar and filter the passata through the funnel to the top of the jar
Pass the passata through the filter so that it all fits into the jars – leave about an inch at the top
If your husband is a dream and a catch wrapped up in a bundle of charm – maybe he’ll make you a snack
>Place a towel in the bottom of your third pot and place jars inside, separating by additional dishtowels. This will prevent breakage while working with a fragile medium
>Add enough water to cover the jars by roughly an inch (lukewarm water; cold water will cause the jars to break)
The simmering bottles, protected from one another by a dishtowel
>Simmer on a low boil for 45 minutes, removing once they are cool enough to touch
>Rest in a cool, dry place and leave them alone. The jars will create a vacuum seal within the next 12 hours. You can test the seal because the little “pop” in the center of the lid will “suck down”
You’ve done it! You have passata
Congratulations! You have just made genuine, Italian passata! One last step is to have fun creating your own labels. I made these for Jen at the same time I made our grappa labels. Do you like them?
Have fun – add some custom-made labels
Come have some of our “Passata di Mamma” – we would love to make some sugo for you
Let us know if you try this and have the benefit of enjoying fresh tomato passata all winter long!
When our friends, Nathan and Danielle had come to visit this past spring – Danielle pointed at a unique outdoor-oven-with-a-chimney-thingy in a neighbors yard and asked what it was. I replied with all the confidence in the world that it was an Italian-style BBQ, but in reality I wasn’t positive. I had seen the smoke billowing through the chimney and I had seen many of these things in other neighbors yards – but I had never inquired about it. I asked my “go-to guy for all things Italian”… Jen’s uncle, Franco. He confirmed that it was in fact a BBQ and a fairly typical one in Italy. So, my educated guess was right. Whew!
Classic Italian style outdoor grill
I noticed shortly thereafter that the typical gas Weber grills we’re accustomed to using in the States are non-existent here. In fact, it’s possible you may see a round charcoal grill – but more often than not, it’s one of these large, permanent fixtures that people use to grill.
Jen may rule the kitchen around here, but I’ve always loved to rock the grill! As soon as I learned of this wonderful outdoor oven (it’s really more of a wood burning oven, than a simple grill) I knew that we absolutely needed one. However, we live in a condo with other families and we needed everyone’s approval before one of these beauties could bask in our communal yard. Franco became the champion of the project and pitched it at the very next board meeting. The grill got a unanimous vote and so when Jen’s parents were here visiting, we went to acquire the grill.
Franco, Dominic and Gianfranco discuss the various merits of certain grills with the clerk
Once again, I learned that things that are usually simple in the States (i.e. buying a car or procuring cell phones) is not necessarily the case in Italy. Buying a grill requires many visits to the store, many discussions, lots of construction and many more discussions. I was a little taken aback when Franco picked up cement and outdoor paint, realizing this was going to be a much bigger project than I originally expected.
Collaborating on the best way to load the grill into the truck
After our second or third visit to the hardware store, Dominic purchased the grill and we loaded it onto a friend’s truck. He helped us deliver it to the building and we carried the unbelievably heavy grill, piece by piece into the yard. A week or so into the project and we were only marginally complete. The grill lay disassembled, piles of cement and stone until we all returned from a quick jaunt to Scotland. By the time I was finally able to roll up my sleeves and start slinging cinder blocks – Jen’s parents had boarded a plane bound for the States. Sadly, Dominic never got to enjoy the BBQ that he helped acquire. That certainly didn’t stop his brother, Franco from encouraging me to send him images of our first festa (party). Brothers will be brothers!
Construction begins
Stefano helps mix the cement as Franco and I set the frame
Stage One complete!
Claudia scolds me in Italian for dunking Julia’s head
Julia thought this was the funniest thing
Julia wanted to help
We place the final piece
And we’re done! Our new grill is complete
My beautiful baby
The first party we had was a blast. Our neighbors below are from Naples – and boy, do they know how to party. They had extended family show up and bring delectable treats with them. I was pushed away from the grill as Aurelia and her husband, Stefano took over. As I watched a jaw-dropping amount of meat depart the grill – I was glad I had been sent to the sidelines. I know now that I was out of my depth. We feasted on pork ribs, beef ribs, lamb, porchetta, speck and various types of salsiccia (sausage). Our waistlines thanked us for the grilled vegetables – eggplant, zucchini, peppers and more. We devoured homemade salumi and cheeses that kept appearing each time I turned around. Of course, the cheeses were from all over Italy (“this is from Veneto… aged 24 months” or “my grandmother made this in Napoli… it stayed under ground for 36 months”). Hours later, the desserts (insert image of the best homemade tiramisu’s I’ve ever had) and then the coffee appeared. This was quickly followed by round after round of grappa (homemade, of course). All this – and it was just a first of many parties!
Franco shows me how it’s done
This was the first image that I sent to Dominic – I still feel guilty, but Franco and I got a kick out of it
Our first festa went late into the night
Since then, we’ve had many more outdoor parties – including a pizza party, where all the Napolitane baked their own bread and made pizza from scratch.
Setting the table
Now the food has arrived
All different types of homemade pizza
Various types of homemade cheeses from Napoli
Stefano got a mini-keg of beer
Aurelia teasing us for taking so many photos
The food was delicious
Cousins and nieces and nephews. Neighbors and friends – the best kind of pizza party
This seemed to be the easiest way to transport all the grappa
When my parents were here visiting, we decided it was another good time for a BBQ.
Everyone gathers around, doing various tasks
Julia plays a little calico (soccer)
Stefano gets a few lookey-loo’s while grilling (including my dad, who couldn’t understand a word being said)
Beef ribs get a nice sear while the charcoals glow beautifully
Jen’s cousins, Franco and Claudia and my parents
Aurelia telling me “smettere” (stop) with the photos. Her sister Angelina shows me the meat
The pot kept getting magically refilled with grilled meat before it was ever emptied
Everyone digs in
Julia was certainly no exception
Another late party
Another time, we wanted to bring all the family together and so all of Jen’s cousins came for a festa.
The younger generation of cousins pose together
I’ve used the grill for a simple meal for the five of us (myself, Jen and Julia along with Franco and Claudia) and not to be outdone by any Italians – I got about three times more meat than necessary.
Would you eat an entire picante peperoncino – Franco shows us how it’s done
All told, we’ve had a wonderful grilling season and while I’m anxious for the fall and then winter – I’m already looking forward to the time when I can dust off the ol’ tongs and have another Italian-style BBQ!
