My Final Blog Post From Italy

Could that title be any more depressing?  I almost cried just typing it. What happened?!  Our “year-long sabbatical” in Italy came and went in a flash.  But that shouldn’t matter… we extended our overseas adventure another six months. Wasn’t that just a few weeks ago?! How is it that our return airline tickets have today’s date on it? We still haven’t seen the trulli huts in Puglia.  We never got the chance to visit Jen’s nonno’s town in Calabria.  I never proved my “Italianness” by grilling a branzino on our BBQ.  Heck, we never ate at that joint down the road that I’ve always wanted try!

“Get outta here pal, before you try to grill me”!

Truthfully, I have been aware of the impending move back to America and it turns out… I am a guy capable of emotions.  Expressing them is something else altogether; but perhaps I’ll try.  Here it is – I am excited to move home.  I am eager to spend time with my friends and family.  I am anxious to begin working again (and especially eager to earn a paycheck).  I am pleased at the thought of a bit of “normal”.  At the same time I am also exceptionally sad to leave.  I am sorry to abandon our friends and family here in Italy.  I am mournful at the thought of missing the food and wine.  I become melancholy when I think about the mountains and the lakes I won’t see daily. Perhaps most of all, I am heartbroken that I won’t spend every day/all day with Jennifer and Julia and that I’ll never have the same uninterrupted bonding experience with my second daughter (who will be arriving this September).  I’m more mixed up inside than a perfectly stirred risotto.american_italian_roots

Before I continue with this post, I feel that it’s important to comment on the status of the blog.  Sipping Espresso will continue publishing posts about travel, food, and of course, a little more nonsense (at least for a period of time).  In an ideal world, I would have published a post every couple of days and been completely caught-up, allowing for this to be the final post.  Of course, I’m nowhere near finished blogging about our recent adventures.  I have a good twenty posts in the pipeline and I won’t let myself or my three loyal readers down by cutting our stories short.  Sadly, this will be my last post written from the comfort of my “Italian blogging chair”.

I think that the only appropriate content for this final Italian post is to remark on the top ten things that I’ll miss most about Italy.  So without further adieu…

10) “I’m in the mood for a brioche”

We have a pasticceria (pastry shop) right next door.  Literally, right next door.  Many of our guests have enjoyed waking up to a breakfast table full of brioche (the Italian version of croissant).  It’s a major convenience to be able to enjoy fresh-baked goods by merely walking a couple dozen meters…wait, feet.  Gotta remember, I’m moving back to the US.  Jen actually sent me over this morning for a few of the delectable treats.  I will miss being sent on these little errands by my wife so that we may enjoy freshly baked goods for breakfast.nessi_brioches

9) Ding dong does the bell

Like most people, I’m not particularly fond of being woken up prematurely.  But man, do I love hearing church bells any time of day.  Here in Italy, the oversized chimes are in no short supply.  I would venture to guess that we have more Catholic churches than the US has Starbucks… each town has one or more churches.  The spires and bell towers can be seen (and heard) from far away.  I have a feeling the sound of church bells will forever be a sound that will whisk me back to my time here in Italy.  I will miss lying in bed and hearing the church bells early in the morning.

Main church with two bell towers in Agordo, Belluno
Main church with two bell towers in Agordo, Belluno

8) Little shops and friendly merchants

When I lived in the Maryland suburbs, I shopped at the big box stores.  I selected my electronics from Best Buy, picked up my groceries from Whole Foods and chose my clothes in the mall.  When I lived in DC, I still found myself driving into Maryland to do my shopping because it was easier.  In Italy, “supporting your local merchants” isn’t a thing – it’s just what you do.  If you want a good piece of meat, you visit Marco, our butcher.  When Jen sends me to pick up flowers, I see Chiara and let her suggest the correct bouquet for me. I know the baristas in the coffee bars and the panettiere (bakers) in the bread shops.  I will miss knowing my merchants, where my products came from and the conversations we have while exchange goods for money.

Inside our local butcher shop, just down the street
Inside our local butcher shop, just down the street

7) “I could run 5,000 miles and I could run 5,000 more…”

I have been running off and on since high school.  Unfortunately, I’ve never stayed with it beyond the spring/summer season.  But for the entire eighteen months I’ve lived in Italy – I have been running.  I started jogging a one mile lap around our neighborhood, discovered my favorite 5k loop and eventually started building toward regular 10+ mile runs.  I ran in the cold, in the rain, in the snow and also in the best conditions imaginable.  What kept me going all this time? I think it was the feeling I got to be outside, surrounded by nature. On any given day, I would jog past scenery that included villas and castles, lakes and vineyards, animals and tractors and so much more. Since running once again became a part of my life, I would continue logging miles on our road trips, which meant I could explore the trails and scenery from Tuscany to Scotland.  I will miss the feeling I got as air filled my lungs and my feet pounded the pavement, consumed by some of the most beautiful scenery Europe has to offer.

Along one of my favorite running routes
Along one of my favorite running routes

6) A passion for local products

Short of buying New England Clam Chowder or Virginia Ham, most products that you buy in the US seem come from an unknown place. It is almost as if they materialize in your local Walmart from a faceless factory somewhere far away… whether that means food produced “somewhere” in the midwest or clothes produced in another country altogether.  Here in Italy, if you’re buying food – you not only know that it is locally raised and produced, you’ll most likely know the specific town of its origin.  You can choose to consume prosciutto from either Parma or from San Daniele, depending on your preference.  If you want a new suit, you can opt to get something pre-made in Milan with silks from Como or perhaps you want to get a custom suit hand-made in Naples.  I will miss knowing where almost all of my products come from and being able to select which I want based on that information.made-in-italy

5) Salami and prosciutto that cannot be replicated or replaced

You can’t talk about buying local products without expanding on the food itself.  My jaw nearly hit the floor the first time I saw the cured meat section of our grocery store.  Legs of prosciutto that stretched for miles.  A section of the store reserved just for its cured meats (salami, prosciutto, lardo, capicola, bresaola, mortadella, etc.)  that was twice as large as most butcheries in an American grocery store!  And the butchery itself is equally as impressive here.  A massive section of the grocery store reserved for high quality products, from veal to rabbit.  The food in Italy is fresh, delicious and life-changing.  I’m not exaggerating… I know that my palate has forever been altered.  I don’t quite think I’ll reach the level of critique a real Italian can dish out when eating a meal, but I will certainly miss the food (specifically the cured meats) here in Italy.parma

4) “Barolo, Amarone and Brunello…oh my”!

I knew that wine was a large part of the culture before moving here, but I didn’t quite understand its significance to the Italian experience.  Like most things here that are rooted in tradition, winemaking and wine drinking hasn’t changed much in the past few centuries. The perfection that took hundreds of years to develop now yields a harvest that includes access to delicious and affordable wines.  After our first few months here, we had to make the conscious decision to slow down our wine consumption – the internal pressure to try all the Italian wine possible in less than two years would have put me in an early grave.  I will miss the open access to such wonderful wine… and I will certainly miss paying less than €10 for a great bottle.

Vineyards in Emilia-Romana
Vineyards in Emilia-Romagna

3) “Let’s go to… hmm… Tuscany today”!

A few weeks ago, we were on a road trip when I saw the exit for Venice.  We were driving east, toward Trieste and I knew we would be passing nearby Venice – but I hadn’t consulted a map prior to our drive, so I was surprised when I saw signs that told me I was only about 20 km from Venice.  The significance struck me that without even trying, we can stop by many of the world’s most important cities (Venice, Rome, Florence, Milan).  Within a three-hour drive, we can visit the rolling hills of Tuscany, the ample vineyards of Piedmont, or the pristine beaches of the Italian Riviera.  Inside of a four-hour radius, we can find ourselves in France, Switzerland, Austria or Slovenia.  We could literally dine on escargot in Chamonix, France for breakfast, have fondue in Geneva, Switzerland for lunch and eat sausage in Innsbruck, Austria for dinner (if we were crazy enough to do that drive… or eat snails for breakfast, for that matter).  I will miss easy access to the best that Italy has to offer and a gateway to much of the rest of Europe.

Of all Italy's exits to explore, the one on the right seems the most appealing
Of all Italy’s exits to explore, the one on the right seems the most appealing

2) They grow up so fast!

Before you have kids, everyone tells you, “you’ll only know this specific type of joy when you have your own” (of course, they don’t tell you about the late nights and the “time-outs”).  When you do have kids of your own – you finally understand what they mean.  When your kids are young, everyone tells you “you won’t believe how fast they grow up”.  They’re right about that one too.  I blinked and suddenly we were celebrating Julia’s third birthday.  I’m afraid to blink again, because then we’ll be packing her up for college.  One thing that I will forever be thankful for is that I got to spend a full year and a half with my little Julia (and her mother, for that matter).  I didn’t have to go to work for 8-10 hours a day, or miss her while I was on road trips.  I spent every single day, watching her develop.  I got to witness her form her words, first in English and then in Italian.  I got to see her become more adept at using an iPad than her parents.  I got to be her “horsey” and her “best friend”. I got to hold her when she was sad and toss her in the air when she was happy.  I will always miss the uninterrupted time that I got to spend with my daughter, Julia.

Julia sips her espresso when we first arrive and then again a year later
Julia sips her espresso when we first arrive and then again a year later

1) I will miss sipping the espresso with you!

That says it all.  I will miss living our adventures and I will miss sharing them with you.  I am thankful that we had any readers at all and I am glad that we got to share a part of our lives with you.  I made friends and contacts through the blog and I will be forever grateful that I had a place to go and “chat” with people from all over the globe!  Thank you, thank you, thank you!Sipping Espresso Logo

Seven Systems Europeans Use That Make More Sense

With World Cup fever heating up, I find myself torn between my two favorite teams – America and Italia.  Thankfully, the teams are not in the same group and so I can root for both squads guilt-free (hopefully all the way to the finals).  As I was comparing and contrasting the strengths and weaknesses of both teams; it occurred to me that perhaps I had stumbled onto something much more important.  I realized that it might be fun to compare America vs. Europe… not just the ability to move the soccer ball around the field, but “bigger picture” things.  What common sense things do Europeans do that Americans fail to recognize?IMAGE

For the purposes of this first post, I will focus solely on the items that appear in the “win” column for Europe.  I will follow-up a little later with another post listing America’s “wins”.  It seemed only fair to publish the posts in this order since Italy logged their first World Cup win before America.

Some background… OK, this piece is not a serious look at which place is “better”.  I’m not weighing in on art & architecture, natural beauty or economic importance.  I’m not comparing the food or the people.  I’m only noting a few of the systems in place that perhaps we would do well to share with one another.  Without further adieu…

1.) Use of the Metric System

Let’s start with an obvious one.  With Europe (and most of the civilized world) using the metric system… it only seems to make sense that America should join the party.  Of course, why should we use such a simple and common-sense system?!  We are ‘merica after all. Land of the free and home of the brave (and sometimes home of the confusing).  Sure… let’s not make 1,000,000 mg = 1,000 grams = 1 kg when we could make 2.2 lbs = 35 oz.  I see the logic there!  There’s a reason that drug dealers have adopted the metric system, people!yNAsr hipster-america-and-the-metric-system because_merica_thats_why_us_flag_poster_large-raad8f53405bb4542ae098d89e2fe581f_8ep1d_8byvr_324

2.) Put Your Pocket Calculator Away

When you’re dining in a restaurant in America, you’ll need to do some mental math when the bill arrives.  Ask yourself if the service was mediocre or exceptional.  Then establish a figure in the range of 15% – 25% that you desire to leave the server.  Do you want to tip on top of the tax and alcohol or remove that portion before you establish a fair gratuity?  Finally, do the math and triple check it – someone’s livelihood depends on your generosity.  In Europe, it’s a bit simpler.  If your bill is €46 – you can leave a €50 and be finished.  Here in northern Italy, tipping even that small amount is the exception, not the rule.  Waiters are paid fair wages and so it’s not necessary to subsidize their income.  I understand the concept of tipping (I worked as a server all through college) but I do often resent paying an extra 20% to the surly server who forgot my ketchup, out of some sense of social obligation or guilt.tip-jar-resize

Boy... that adds up!
Boy… that adds up!

3.) No More Banged Up Shins

It took me some time to get used to the placement of light switches here, but now I’m a full convert to the European system.  In America, the light switch is on the inside of the room, usually next to the door (but not always).  If you’re walking into your own home, it’s no problem.  But if you are entering a foreign space under the cover of darkness, you may hear a “shreeek” from the cat whose tail you just crushed.   In Europe, you don’t have to worry about banging your shins or stepping on Garfield.  The light switches are on the outside of the room.  Simply illuminate your path and… go!

Avoid this by turning on the lights first
Avoid this by turning on the lights first

4.) Operate With Military Efficiency

You’ve never heard a Lieutenant in the Army bark, “get to the mess hall at 6:00… PM”.  They say, “18:00″.  So why does the rest of the American population divide a 24 hour day in half?  I suppose it has something to do with the design of a 12 hour clock, but I do see value in using the 24 hour system.  Admittedly, it takes some getting used to.  After a little while I realized that when Jen asked what time our favorite shows came, I was responding, “21:00″ (9:00pm) in line with the television guide I was consulting.

“I meant clean the latrine by 10:00am… not 10:00pm!”

5.) Baby, it’s Cold Outside

OK, I realize that this is very similar to the first point about the metric system… but some of these things just make sense.  Freezing starts at 0°?  Nah… let’s make it… say, 32º.  Yeah, that seems about right.Fun with Celsius

6.) Eat With Razor Sharp Efficiency

Pick up your fork in your left hand and knife in the right, keeping your fork tongs down.  Cut a piece of meat.  Set your knife down on the plate.  Reverse your fork from your left hand to your right, twisting the tongs up.  Stab your piece of meat once again and put it in your mouth.  Repeat.  Clearly, you’re eating in America (I’m also guessing it’s a 2-3 lb steak).  Here in Europe, this process is altered as follows: pick up your fork and knife keeping the fork tongs down. Cut your meat.  With the piece of meat you just cut on the fork, simply move it directly into your mouth with the tongs still down.  No extra puncturing the meat.  No setting utensils down.  No reversal of hands.  Simply enjoy your food.  Just imagine how many precious seconds of your life you could have been spared if you had been doing this your whole life!

"That American system is far too confusing.  I'll just eat like this!"
“That American system is far too confusing. I’ll just eat like this!”

7.) I’ll Be Getting Off On First Floor

If you’re visiting an office on the first floor of a building in America, then you’ll need to ascend to the second level of the edifice, according to the elevator.  So when you ascend one floor from the lobby… you’re on the second level.  Hmm?  So, in America, we really “start” on the 2nd floor.  OK.  I guess.  What if that office is on the sixteenth floor?  Well, then you’ll need to go fourteen levels above the ground, since we don’t “have” a thirteenth floor in most of our buildings.  Wow.  Now I’m lost.  Here in Europe, they keep it simple.  The lobby is 0 and the first floor is… the first floor.

This is so much easier
This is so much easier

These are just a few of the things that seem to make more sense.  Maybe when I move back to America I can start a national trend to change these seven items to the European way of doing things.Sipping Espresso Logo

If you liked this post, check out my lists of observations about more differences between Italy and America.

ALL THINGS ARE A LITTLE DIFFERENT

Part One (January 23, 2013)

Part Two (March 26, 2013)

Part Three (June 19, 2013)

Part Four (March 26, 2014)

Bergamo – Italy’s Most Underrated City

I played with various options for the title of this post, ranging from “Italy’s Most Hidden Treasure” to “Italy’s Best Kept Secret”.  Really, any of those title would be apropos.   Bergamo is all of those things and so much more.  Ultimately, I went with “most underrated” because it seems that most people would rather bypass this northern Italian city for the sexier Venice, Florence or Rome.  Heck, even neighboring Verona pulls more visitors than Bergamo.  As a matter of fact, I had never even heard of Bergamo until I moved here and I had visited nearby Como plenty of times leading up to this adventure.

Città Bassa in Bergamo
Città Bassa in Bergamo

Getting to know Bergamo was truly a blessing, because it is the type of place that we will continue to visit over and over.  The distinguishing feature of Bergamo is that it is really two cities in one.  There is the older, medieval city at the top of the hill (Città Alta) and the much more modern city (Città Bassa) below.  Incidentally, I use the term “modern city” quite loosely… most notable development is still several hundred years old.

Julia enjoyed her day in Bergamo
Julia enjoyed her day in Bergamo
The older city at the top of the hill
The older city at the top of the hill
Secured roads allowed access into the ancient city
Secured roads allowed access into the ancient city
The view from atop the hill extends for miles
The view from atop the hill extends for miles
Julia enjoyed soaking it all in
Julia enjoyed soaking it all in
More views...
More views…
The main city gate, flanked by the Venetian lions from the time of Venetian rule
The main city gate, marked with the winged Venetian lion from the time Venetians ruled the city

On our first visit well over a year ago, we were drawn toward Città Alta.  We spent most of our day wandering the cobblestone streets, soaking up the magical views the high city extends before you.  We had been dying to come back to Bergamo and finally got the opportunity when Jen’s sister came to visit with Matt (first post HERE).  I thought the mixture of old and new would be something unique for them to see, and the hour(ish) car ride from our home would allow an easy day trip.  We loaded our car and headed east toward the city.  Our first step was to ascend the hill toward Città Alta (also known as Città Vecchio or Old City) by means of finiculare (cable car).  We had researched a good lunch place and in no time, we found ourselves settled outside on the patio of La Tana.  After lunch, we spent quite a bit of time wandering around the cobblestone streets and settled in among the other tourists and locals in the centro (center) of town.

Streets centuries old
Streets centuries old
One of the churches in the main piazza
One of the churches in the main piazza
Just outside the main piazza
Just outside the main piazza
Julia with a statue of a marble lion
Julia with a statue of a marble lion
La Tana - a fabulous restaurant
La Tana – a fabulous restaurant
Jen's sister, Jessica with Julia
Jen’s sister, Jessica with Julia
The waiter recommended a fabulous beer, produced locally.  I'm still searching for where it's sold
The waiter recommended a fabulous beer, produced locally. I’m still searching for where it’s sold

Eventually we descended to Città Bassa with plenty of daylight still above us.  This gave us a perfect opportunity to enjoy an aperitivo (or two) in the sun.  With our thirst quenched, we continued our tour of the lower city.  This was the first time that Jen and I spent any notable amount of time down below and we were thrilled with what we discovered.  The much more modern, lower city is just as special as the ancient city above.

We stopped for happy hour
We stopped for happy hour
The lower city has a charm that rivals the higher city
The lower city has a charm that rivals the higher city
The streets are full of shops and caffès
The streets are full of shops and caffès
Church tower in Città Bassa
Church tower in Città Bassa

My only regret is that my photos don’t do this special city justice.  I urge you to spend a full day exploring Bergamo and come discover for yourself why this is Italy’s “most underrated city”.Sipping Espresso Logo

Mercatone dell’Antiquariato – Milan’s Outdoor Antique Market

Jennifer and I simply love outdoor markets.  Jen holds on to the belief that she’s going to stumble across a vintage Louis Vuitton handbag or uncover that perfect piece for our future living room.  I’ve got much lower (and more realistic expectations); I’m just thrilled that I get to eat “street food”.  Nothing is better than a porchetta paninio (pork sandwich) from a food vendor with freshly fried zeppole  (Italian donuts) for dessert.  I love sandwiches, I love eating outside and I love feeding my entire family for less than €20!

Pack your bags, let's check out the market!
Pack your bags, let’s check out the market!
All of us at the Fiera
All of us at the Mercatone dell’Antiquariato

Jen has been trying to get to the Mercatone dell’Antiquariato del Naviglio Grande since we moved here nearly a year and a half ago. “What’s the big deal – why is it so hard to make it to a market”, you ask? Well, this particular market only takes place on the last Sunday of each month (except for July).  For those of you that aren’t math wizards, that’s just eleven chances a year to make it to Milan for this 80-year-old Milanese tradition.  Our first attempt was foiled – we set out one day in January of 2013, but got derailed when we couldn’t find parking.  It was ambitious of me to try so soon after moving to Italy – had I known then what I know now, I would have just thrown my car on the curb like the hundreds of other locals.  Instead, we stopped for lunch and found an amazing sandwich place, which I blogged about HERE.  After lunch, we lost the motivation to go back and agreed, “we’ll try again as soon as we get the next opportunity”.  Well, travel and other obligations delayed that opportunity fifteen more months.

Jen's sister Jessica along with Jen and Julia
Jen’s sister Jessica along with Jen and Julia
Matt and Jessica
Matt and Jessica
Another family photo along the
Another family photo along the Alzaia Naviglio Grande

We had been casually referring to the market as “Milan’s Antique Market”.  Certainly, there is some truth in referring to the Mercatone dell’Antiquariato as an antique market, but perhaps flea market is a more apt description.  The products sold range from old shoes to mid-century furniture.  You can acquisition antique coffee makers or art by local artists.  The best part about paying a visit to this unique bazaar is that you’ll never know what you need until you find it.

Tables full of treasure
Tables full of treasure
Some old photography equipment
Some old photography equipment
Loved this old record player
Loved this old record player
Just in case you need some new frames
Just in case you need some new frames
The stores also sell antiques - here is a classic espresso maker once used in a coffee bar
The stores also sell antiques – here is a classic espresso maker once used in a coffee bar

Roughly 380 vendors wind their way up Alzaia Naviglio Grande, placing their backs to the canal.  This trendy neighborhood in Milan features many cafes and bars that call to the younger, artistic crowd. Jen and I had been hoping to get away from the centro (center) of Milan and visit this particular area for some time.  Well, two birds… as they say. As lunch time approached, we picked a great pizzeria in a former factory – the space was as great as the food.  If you find yourself in Milan near the last weekend of the month, be sure to carve out some time for the Mercatone dell’Antiquariato.

Vendors display along the canal
Vendors display along the canal
The neighborhood is full of artists
The neighborhood is full of artists and street art

INFORMATION

WHAT »    Mercatone dell’Antiquariato del Naviglio Grande
WHEN »   Last Sunday of every month (except July)
WHERE » Milan
ADDRESS »
Strada Alzaia Naviglio Grande, via Valenza, South
TRANSPORT »
Metro Porta Genova/bus 59, 74, 169
Tram 2, 3, 9, 14, 15, 29, 30Sipping Espresso Logo