“The journey should be fun, but if you haven’t learned anything along the way, you’ve not yet reached your final destination.”
-Greg
If you can find Kim Kardashian quotes online, then certainly I should be allowed to try my hand at it!
“Excuse me… did you just try to author a quote – that’s my domain!”
There is a point to that quote however, apart from just trying something new. Our journey abroad has been a wonderful and wild ride. I have had a blast blogging about it and I appreciate all of my readers for tuning in. But more importantly, I’ve learned a thing or two over the past year. As it relates to blogging specifically, I’ve learned a lot. When I look back at my older posts and blogging habits I cringe. I used to spend ages loading photos, and have just recently learned a shortcut that saves me hours. I moved from Blogger to WordPress, which I would equate to a jump from junior high directly to college (my MBA is awaiting the day I can build my own website). I have learned that Top Ten lists and featured images of scantily clad women get you the most page-views. I used to write posts that seemed to go on for days (and you thought I wrote a lot now), but recently I am attempting to keep each post specific to one topic (as opposed to combining multiple cities and multiple food related stories all into one post).
“Tell me about these ‘shorter’ posts, daddy”“I think it’s a good idea in theory, but let’s see if you can really stick to it!
With this new framework of shorter posts I think the blog tends to be a little cleaner and better organized. Of course, I have given myself a lot more work in the process. When we took our first cruise last summer on Holland America’s Nieuw Amsterdam, I wrote three posts on the matter (HERE, HERE & HERE). However, on our adventure aboard Celebrity Cruises Silhouette, I have written nine posts on the ports (ROME, ROME, FLORENCE, GREECE, MONTENEGRO, CROATIA, VENICE, VENICE, SICILY ) and one on the FOOD… you know, for good measure! While I have enjoyed reliving this memorable trip – I will tell you that I am thrilled to announce this is the final post on the matter! Whew… I think we can both breathe a sigh of relief!
In fact, I think it might even be worth dancing about…
So, let’s get down to business. By now – you’ll know that any cruise two main components. There is the shipboard life and the daily excursions. I’ve usually been able to mix in a little shipboard life in these posts, because that’s as enjoyable to us as any of the sightseeing. What follows are a few photos of our final days at sea, including our last formal night, Julia with her friend Ava and an amazing show that the dance crew put on.
All dressed up for the final “formal” night on the cruiseTrying to get creative with a photo shootJulia and her bestie, Ava with the Cruise Director, Patti HonackiThese two were thick as thieves“Come on guys, follow us!”Julia was a big fan of the Executive Chef, Anthony WilsonThe wonderful dance crew performed a “Cirque du Soleil” type performance on the final nightThe girls hug one of the performers
Our final port of call was Naples, a major city in the Campania region of southern Italy. If we had been allowed five days in Naples, we wouldn’t have scratched the surface of this unique area of Italy. For the art and architecture lovers, days can be lost walking around the city of Naples. For the history buffs, you can do no better than exploring the ancient cities of Pompeii andHerculaneum, frozen in time as a result of Mount Vesuvius eruption in 79 AD. For the rich and famous, there is hardly a more popular place to be seen than one of the beach towns along the Amalfi Coast, such as Positano. Of course, if none of that tickles your fancy, you could just simply stop and enjoy a pizza. Naples is credited as the birthplace of pizza and still boasts the title as Heavyweight Pizza Champions of the world (although you may get some argument from other regions in Italy).
The streets of Capri, an island near NaplesCapri
We only had a limited amount of time, so picking our daily excursion was next to paramount. I haven’t been faced with a decision this hard since picking my first ride of the day at King’s Dominion. We felt as though just on this cruise alone, we had already seen so many stunning cities and ancient wonders that we would prefer to enjoy the day unplugging while embracing a taste of luxury and beauty. We decided to hop on another boat and set sail for the small island of Capri.
Capri combines stunning manmade and natural beauty
The small island of Capri was blessed with such natural beauty that it was pre-destined to be a paradise hideaway; it has been a resort destination since the time of the Roman Republic. Unfortunately, I don’t have much proof to offer other than a handful of poorly shot photographs. Immediately upon disembarking the ship, we were pelted with rain.
Sadly, this was how we spent most of the dayPart of the main piazza upon taking the funicolare to the top of the mountainView looking out from the top of Capri
We soldiered on and explored the island until we were finally able to duck into a restaurant for a meal and refuge. In this video, Julia helps me taste my wine at lunch.
After lunch, we walked around a bit before throwing in the towel. Cold and wet, we were feeling defeated. We were both sad that our final day turned out to be such a bust, but please don’t let our dark day discourage a visit to Capri. Even through cloudy skies and wet streets, the charm of this island village was not lost on us. We do hope to get back one day… and this time, we’ll stay long enough to enjoy the city of Naples and surrounding attractions.
“I don’t want these cruise posts to end!” (well, Julia… you’re the only one)
Sicilia (Sicily) was the birthplace of the original Godfather, Don Vito Corleone; its shoresharbored his son, Michael Corleone and recently the island hosted Don Greggorio and his small family. My only disappointment in visiting Sicily was that my wife, Jen wouldn’t let me wear a white suit and hat while walking around passing out fruit like I was Don Vito himself. Oh well, there’s always next time…
The sun rises over Catania. How can you be expected to walk around without a white suit?!
I was so excited to visit Sicily because I’ve wanted to see this unique part of the country for as long as I can remember. This region of Italy is so far south from where we live that I wasn’t sure if we would ever get the opportunity to explore the island while living here. Sicily boasts a plethora of interesting facts that I couldn’t begin to detail in a single post. However, perhaps the most interesting few points are that the island is the largest in the Mediterranean, archeological evidence dates human inhabitants are far back as 8,000 BC and the terrain has changed hands dozens of times (from Greek to Byzantine to Roman and all over again and again).
Coastline along SicilyÌsula Bedda is local dialect for Isola Bella, or Beautiful Island
While the capital city of Palermo is the largest and most populous on the island, Catania is another popular tourist destination and the port city that received us on our visit. The city also bore nostalgic significance – Catania was the birthplace and home of Jen’s bisnonna (great-grandmother), Rapisardi. Even though there is plenty to do in Catania, we decided to take the hour-long train ride up the coast to Taormina. We were not the first to make this journey – Taormina has been one of the most popular tourist destinations in Sicily since the early 19th century. However, we came at a particularly interesting time. The infamous Mount Etna had just erupted a couple of days before our arrival and evidence of the black soot was everywhere.
The black soot from the explosion of Mount Etna covered the entire areaThe beaches became black with sootJulia enjoyed walking on what became a black pathwayWe were all fascinated how far the soot traveled, literally blanketing the town
The rapid expansion of Taormina is believed to have begun around 345 BC. It originally started as part of the Greek empire before falling into the hands of the Romans. Today, the city remains high atop the ridges of the coastline, commanding a beautiful (and strategic) view of the sea. Before we could walk her ancient streets, we had to ascend the long and winding roads from the train station. We secured ourselves a cab and helped some other non-Italian speaking tourists get cabs of their own. Since there were more people than cabs, I offered to share our cab with a German couple. I arranged a pick-up time with the same cab driver at a discounted rate. Not only did we get to split the fare, but we got a discount by giving the same guy round-trip business. I’m always happy to find good travel deals!
Taormina has beautiful coastline and wonderful beachesThe city is nestled high atop the cliffsThe city is something truly wonderful to beholdWe enjoyed hiking aroundJulia took turns posing with her parentsWhat fun!Pretty gals and a pretty view“Momma… listen to me”Once again, Julia was a hit with the other tourists that wanted to hold her and take pictures
Upon arriving in Taormina, we spent some time walking around, soaking up the lovely street scenes. Eventually, we wound our way to the Teatro Antico di Taormina (Ancient Theatre of Taormina). The amphitheater is a fine example of Greek engineering that dates to the seventh century BC. What is most fascinating about this theatre (apart from its spectacular position overtop the Mediterranean) is that the use of brick in its composition hint at Roman construction (an era much later than the seventh century BC). But the design is that of ancient Greece. This architectural style in combination with other archeological elements has unfurled the prevailing theory that the Romans rebuilt the amphitheater overtop an existing Greek theatre. Today, the preservation of this ancient wonder is truly remarkable.
The view as an audience member in the amphitheaterThis ancient theatre dates all the way back to the seventh century BCThe design of the theatre is that of ancient GreeceThe views from the top of the theatre are remarkableJulia and I take a picture with the theatre and coastline behind usShe leans in for a hugI’m a lucky guy – Julia gives me a kissWe soak up the view together
After quite a bit of time exploring the amphitheater, we strolled through the city streets, marveling at the beauty behind each turn. However, we had more on our minds than just lollygagging. We were bound and determined to try arancini, which are essentially balls of fried rice. Of course, there is oh so much more to it than just that! This local Sicilian treat dates all the way back to the 10th century. The perfectly fried balls of heaven are often times stuffed with ragu, pancetta, cheese or other treats. We got a simple variation, just risotto fried lightly beneath breadcrumbs – we couldn’t be happier with our decision. I’ve included a link to a recipe HERE, although we haven’t tried to make them ourselves yet. We’ve since eaten arancini in other parts of Italy – but it’s never quite as good as it was that day in Sicily.
“Quick, dad – take my picture… photo-op!”Mandarini (mandarin oranges) were in seasonJulia found some pigeons that she became friends withJulia is no stranger to her winged friendsShe even made friends with a micino (little kitty)We loved the cityARANCINI! Amazing!!
We took our final walk through Taormina and back toward our departing ship. We had one last port to round out our time at sea – a day in the historic city of Naples.
W got one last look at the beautiful city streetsWe barely made it back to the ship before we set sail toward our final destination
If you read about our recent trip to Venice (HERE), then you’ll know that we finally unlocked the key to really enjoying Venice. In a nutshell, it involves beating the other tourists to the finish line. If the “finish line” is a guided tour in Palazzo Ducale (Doge’s Palace), then be the first person in line in the morning. If the finish line is grabbing a moment of solace in an empty Piazza San Marco, then you’d better be there as the sun rises (conversely, you can arrive well after the sun has set and listen to the beautiful music of the dueling bands). Or, more simply, you can do what we did; visit this magical city in the off-season and get to know the city of Venezia (Venice) without having to put up a fight.
San Marco Campanile and Doge’s Palace seen from the water
If you’re blessed with a couple of days in Venice, I would suggest that you go a bit deeper than the surface level attractions. Skip the gondola ride (it’s overpriced anyhow) and instead tour the neighboring islands. With 117 to chose from, you’ll have your pick. You can visit the Jewish Ghetto on the island of Cannaregio. Many of the beautiful parks and gardens on the island of Lido are free of charge to you botany lovers. Or, for the real adventurers, you could opt to wade into the marshes and cast nets with local fishermen near the island of Chioggia.
The Church of San Giorgio Maggiore Church on the island that shares the same name
We knew that we wanted to visit the island Murano and watch how the world-famous Venetian glass was blown. This would require a little preparation and so I enlisted the assistance of a guided tour. I discovered a wonderful website that offers local tours at very reasonable prices – Viator. Travel bugs, take note of that website! It is a great resource for sight-seeing tours in cities all over the world. We will definitely use them again; my only regret was not discovering the website sooner. When searching for a tour of Murano, we found a better option – a tour that also included the islands of Burano and Torcello. You can find the link to our specific tour HERE. I bought my tickets ($28 pp) and had the confirmation sent to my smart phone. I showed up at the designated area, presented the pass on my phone and received our tickets to the boat. Easy, breezy, lemon-squeezy.
Venetian workers were out in the early morningWorking on the water here is no different than working on a truck in another city
Before our tour departed the main island, we had enough time in the early morning to drop by Venice’s famous fish market. The Mercato di Rialto (Rialto Fish Market) is in the area affectionately known as Cuore della Città (heart of the city) behind the Rialto bridge. This area by the famous bridge was settled in the 9th century and becoming a booming marketplace by 1097. Today, the fish market still stands as a wonderful place to visit and buy fresh seafood.
We enter the market – the Winged Lion of San Marco warns not to touchThe ladies are excitedPESCE (FISH)!This guy looks tastyThe granchi (crabs)I wouldn’t want to get bit by this guyThe displays were beautifulThere was also wonderful looking produce – these are delicious peperonciniA butcher – this one specializes in horse meat, common to find in Italy
After viewing the market, we wound our way to the tour meeting-point next to San Marco Square. Our four-hour tour included a professional guide, a glass-blowing demonstration in Murano, a hand-crafted lace demonstration in Burano and round-trip transportation to all three islands via boat. I thought the price was very reasonable for all that was included, but truth be told – the price paid for little more than transportation. The guide was impossible to understand over the boat’s roaring engine. All in all, I’m still happy with the deal and it forced us to be back on our cruise ship in time for departure. Nothing like being stranded on a remote Venetian island and watching your cruise ship sail past to ruin your vacation!
Julia walks on the pier of Burano
Venetian glass, which is more commonly referred to as Murano glass today, is widely recognized as one of the most specialized and beautiful hand-crafted items the world over. Venice emerged as a prominent glass manufacturing center as early as the 8th century. The origins of glass making going back to the Roman Empire when molded glass was used to assist in the illumination of bathhouses. The island gained it’s notoriety when the Venetian glass blowers were all ordered to move their foundries to the island of Murano in 1291, for fear of fire on the main island. By the fourteenth century, the glassblowers were considered among the most elite of Venetian citizens. The closely guarded secrets developed on the island laid the foundation for a glassmaker monopoly on high quality glass that lasted for centuries. Our tour guide explained that even to this day the artisans of Murano are highly trained in this unique skill that is closely monitored by the Glassmakers Guild. Among other things, a Murano glassmaker must be the son of a tenured glassmaker and apprentice for twenty years before being allowed to make his own glass. A “young” glassmaker on the island would be someone who is in his mid forties.
We toured this factory, C&A GiserrieriThe artisan stands next to his furnaceHere he shapes or “marvers” the glass by rolling itNext, he “cuts in” to score the piece’s neckThis is where he is “trimming the lip” with shearsAnother example of design, he quickly molded a horseHe demonstrated the heat of the piece by simply laying a piece of paper on her neck, which immediately burst into flames
Next, we set sail for Burano, which is known mainly for its painted houses and the church of San Martino’s leaning campanile (bell tower). They also have an established reputation for their creations of lace.
As we sailed toward Burano, we could clearly see the leaning bell tower (in the background)A better shot of the bellower – it is leaning quite a bitThe painted houses were something to beholdThere were canals just like on the main islandThe vibrant colors were really something else!We loved strolling around and taking in all the beauty of the island
Lastly, we finished on the island of Torcello. We were surprised to learn that this was actually the first island to be settled by Venetians, and once held the largest population of the Republic of Venice. Today, you can hardly see evidence of this; the island is so sparsely inhabited that only a few structures remain and the inhabitants number fewer than a couple dozen. The main attraction nowadays is the Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta (Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta) founded in 639 AD.
Torcello was very different from the other islands of Venice proving that each island offers it’s own unique beautyJulia and I walk along the ancient canal in TorcelloSince it was cold, we warmed up with a little vin bruléJulia and I take a stroll over this bridgeSanta Maria Assunta (left) and Santa Fosca (right)The historic Santa Fosca church – you can distinguish the Byzantine influence
If you are planning a trip to Venice anytime soon, I would definitely recommend a tour of the peripheral islands. If you discover any other fun places to visit, please drop me a line and let me know!
Have you ever wanted to sound like the world’s biggest a-hole and alienate multiple friends, all in one fell swoop? If so, pay close attention and do exactly as I say. Kind of roll your eyes a little bit in an exaggerated act of annoyance and say the following words with the smug impatience of someone who thinks they’re as classy as Ivanka Trump (but really only has as much class as her father, ‘The’ Donald). Repeat after me:
“Ugh. We have to go to Venice… again?! Bleeeehh.”
Do that, and you are sure to land on the top of most people’s sh*t list! At the risk of losing blog readers, friends and maybe even a few family members… that is exactly how we felt recently when we went back to Venice. I can fully appreciate this is a ridiculous thought to have and even more obnoxious to share… but hey, this is a blog that delivers brutal honesty. When we booked our cruise with Celebrity Cruises a little while back, we did it despite the fact that the ship spent two days at port in Venice. Don’t get me wrong, Venice is a beautiful city with a unique charm found nowhere else in the world. If you’ve visited Venice before, you may reminisce about the romantic gondola rides, the charming cafes and the stunning churches. But when you’ve faced with a visit to Venice for the fifth time, you are more likely reminded of the crowded piazzas, overprices restaurants and long lines full of pushy tourists.
See… “First World Problems Girl” gets it!
Venezia (Venice) has an alluring history that I find to be more fascinating than nearly any other city in the world. I mean, the entire city has been floating on water for centuries, for Pete-sake! I detail a brief explanation of how Venice came to be in this blog post (definitely worth a quick read).
Doge’s Palace with San Marco Campanile in the backgroundThe Lion of San Marco perches atop a tall pillar outside of the piazza
Even though we weren’t very excited at the prospect of squaring off against millions of other tourists in a space not much larger than the Mall of America, we abandoned our original plans to stay on the ship and instead ventured onto Venice’s shores. We were sure glad that we did! Over the next two days we rediscovered a new Venice; one with more magic and charm than we ever realized was possible. What’s the difference, you ask? We were walking around in the off-season.
Our cruise ship sailed in just as the sun was risingThe early morning light cast over the city of Venice is a stunning sight
The weather was cold and the droves of tourists were nowhere in sight. We were able to deftly weave betwixt the shops, restaurants, churches and museums with ease. The horrid memory of sweating in lines and pushing through crowds became a thing of the past. Strolling down streets and visiting historical sites became pleasant and stress-free. We fell in love with the city all over again. It was as if we had undergone marriage counseling with Venezia and came out stronger and more in love than ever before.
Gondolas on the waterSan Giorgio Maggiore ChurchDoge’s Palace
In the past, we had rushed from attraction to attraction, trying to “pack it all in”. Of course, this is impossible to do – the city boasts art and architecture in abundance. Combined with the heat and the dense crowds of the past, we have enjoyed Venice – but haven’t been in love with the city since our magical first visit. This time, it was completely different. Since we didn’t feel any pressure to see the main sites – we decided to take it slowly and just be in the moment. Our second day was even better when we opted only to see the attractions on the second and third pages of most guide books.
We were lucky to have such a beautiful day – spectacular weather
First, we spent a bit of time walking through the winding and narrow streets. Our goal was simple – to stay away from the main square, Piazza San Marco as long as we could, fearing the worst (we still didn’t know just how “wide open” the city had become). We stopped for a quick sandwich around 10:30am because Julia was hungry. We found a great little wine bar, far from the main “touristy” areas. We discovered locals coming in and enjoying glasses of wine at the bar. I thought…“well, why not?!” If the locals can enjoy a mid-morning wine and Julia can enjoy a mid-morning salami sandwich, why shouldn’t I join in the fun? I ordered a nice Valpolicella Ripasso – a wonderful wine local to the region. I got a nice big pour for €4. “Wait, so if you don’t crowd into the main spots – food and drink are priced reasonably?!”
A gondolier takes a break to feed his friendsHis craft was parked nearby awaiting a fareThe canals are always beautiful – any time of dayWe started to discover just how empty the city wasJulia insisted on stopping for a mid-morning salami sandwichJen and I stop for a photo on Ponte di Rialto (Rialto Bridge)It was chilly, so we warmed up with some vin brulé
Eventually, we did wind our way into Piazza San Marco and found that our pleasant morning was a precursor to a pleasant afternoon. I have never seen the square so wide open. We walked right into Basilica di San Marco – something I thought was impossible without waiting for at least an hour or two! We took in the rest of the sites, including the Procuratie Vecchie, Campanile, Loggetta and Torre dell’Orologio. But the absolute peak of the day was when we fed the birds. We had a blast watching Julia get swarmed by dozens of pigeons. A highlight of the entire cruise, for sure! I can’t confirm any truth to the rumors that these pigeons inspired Alfred Hitchcock’s film, The Birds (mainly because I just started that rumor to suit this post’s title) – but being swarmed by dozens of these winged beggars felt like we were on the set of the movie itself.
Ponte dei Sospiri (Bridge of Sighs) is usually tougher to photograph with tourists pushing for positionI LOVED this guys photography poseYou’ve got to remain in a stylish pose while you check your workJen and I pose in front of the Canale Della GiudeccaWe were able to stroll right in to Basilica San MarcoJulia lights a candle and says a little prayerJen and Julia in Piazza San MarcoJulia loved being in the wide open piazzaShe took time to explore on her ownOnce again, she was a hit with other tourists who wanted to take photos with herShe decided to start feeding the birds“Whoa! Mom..Dad – I got one!”I showed her how to get more than one birdWhich worked out better than expected… that’s Julia hidden behind a wall of birdsThat was about the same reaction that Julia had
Buckle up, because our next stop is our second day in Venice. I think I’ll call it “Venice Like You’ve Never Seen Before”. We rise early to visit the fish market as well as the islands of Murano for a glass blowing demonstration, tour the painted houses of Burano and round out our visit with the ancient church on Torcello. Most people forget, Venice has more to share than just the main island!
An older building shows a unique beauty that only Venice can provideWe returned to our ship as a beautiful sun was setting on the Grand Canal
King Joffrey might just be the most evil little man-boy on the planet, but he has got one thing right – he gets to live in a beautiful and unique city (King’s Landing) with a history no more interesting than the real-life city in which the show is filmed. If you’re a fan of the show Game of Thrones, you may know that most of the filming takes place in Dubrovnik, Croatia. This site was chosen after season one wrapped (they originally filmed in Malta) because of the city’s perfectly maintained medieval appearance. It is purely coincidental (and perfectly fitting) that the city of Dubrovnik happens to have a past that is as violent and completely peppered with dastardly deeds as King’s Landing itself.
Midway through our cruise on Celebrity Cruises ship, the Silhouette, I was bursting at the seams with excitement. The port of call I was most eager to see had finally arrived! The previous ports had been no less fantastic, Rome (here and here), Florence (here), Corfu (here) and Kotor (here) – but this was the icing on the cake for me. I’m a fan of the HBO hit series, but more importantly I’m a fan of history. I’m also a fan of 6’2″ blond models and this city seems to export them in droves.
The view from our balcony when we arrived in port. This is the more modern part of Dubrovnik“Let’s get going!”
The city of Dubrovnik is pleased to be recognized as one of the most popular tourist destinations on the Adriatic Sea and they are certainly proud to have their Old City listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It’s no surprise that the city is so popular; it is truly something to behold.
The Old City of Dubrovnik exudes charmIt’s hard to forget that the entire city has been fortified against invadersDubrovnik is an important port city with strong ties to the seaPile near the man entrance gateTower Minčeta is the strong fort located in the North wall endingTower MinčetaThe city is fortified by large walls over which tile roofs can be seen peeking throughFort of Saint Lawrence in Blackwater Bay
It is commonplace for me to weave travel tips into many of my posts; if any of the things that we have learned are helpful to anyone, than I am pleased to have been of service. Please allow me to draw out one specific point that I’m sad to have recently learned:
Do not take a Mediterranean cruise during rainy season – the precipiation will certianly affect your time in the port cities and cause your ship to sway and rock like a ’68 Camero at “make out point”
First, it drizzled when we were in Florence. Then, it sprinkled as we visited Corfu. Next, it rained while we were in Kotor. Finally, it poured when we reached Dubrovnik. Luckily for us, for all the time it rained – we were blessed with just as much sunshine. The rain would pass by quickly, but not before wetting our socks and changing our plans at each port. You see, there are dozens of interesting activities that you can enjoy in Dubrovnik (just like the previous cities). However, when you spend a couple hours hiding out in an Irish pub before finally soldiering through the rain and puddles, you will miss out on the opportunity to participate in organized activities. Indoor museums and churches become more appealing than boat rides and walking tours. I have to say, I am usually a much bigger fan of the latter, but when you are fighting to stay dry – sitting quietly in a 600 year old church somehow seems much more exciting than normal.
It wasn’t raining when we crossed through the Pile Gate into the cityJulia stole her daddy’s “travel hat”“If it’s going to rain, I need this more than you!”The rain came shortly after we crossed the city gatesThis guy was working overtimeWe spent quite a bit of time in St. Blasius ChurchAfter hiding out in churches, I wanted to hide out here because at least I could order a pintJulia seemed to think I ordered this for her – she was mistaken!
Eventually, the torrential downpour did cease and a beautiful sky appeared over the ancient city. We spent the rest of our day walking around and taking in the sites. The city did not disappoint, but I have to leave it on my travel bucket list as “a place I would like to see again”. I can’t say that we fully took advantage of all that Dubrovnik has to offer. There is the Ancient City Walls Walking Tour (you get to see the city from a unique perspective, from atop the walls that enclose the city). Of course, there is the ‘Game of Thrones’ Walking Tour (self explanatory) and then there is the Cable Car Ride to Mount Srd (to witness the best views of the city). I discovered that renting a boat and touring some of the nearby islands is very reasonably priced – but only fun to do when the sun is shining (I was particularly bummed about this, I love putting a boat in the water).
Jen and Julia near the main city gateMain city street – Placa – StradunLovely side streets wind up the side of the hill with long stairwaysTrees and bushes vibrantly grow out of the rugged stoneMany of the streets became desolate after the heavy rainJulia strolls on aheadJen guides Julia down a long stairway…While I get left with the heavy liftingWe stop for a “selfie”The port was beautiful just outside the city wallsI was disappointed it didn’t work out for me to rent a boatJulia doesn’t want to share her mid-day snack with her motherShe does stop eating to let me take a picture with herJulia leads us through the Ploče GateIt was nice of the local residents to make the city handicapped accessible (umm, does this conform to ADA standards?)View of city roofs and the tower of the Franciscan MonasteryJen and Julia loved walking around Dubrovnik
If you do visit Dubrovnik, please click on this link to get some ideas of things to do. And may I suggest checking the weather forecast before booking!
The city at night – the sky was a beautiful calm blue after a torrential day
I am not a dedicated student of history or geography, although I like to believe I have a little knowledge of the world. I recently exposed my own ignorance on the recent affairs of eastern Europe and I am embarrassed to admit the depths of it to you now. Let this paragraph serve as my confession booth when I tell you that just over a year ago, I had never heard of the country of Montenegro. Allow me to further confess that as recently as six months ago, I didn’t know that Yugoslavia was no longer a country, but rather a former Socialist Republic that had been divided into what stands today as seven independent countries (Serbia, Kosovo, Macedonia, Croatia, Montenegro, Bosnia, Slovenia) .
Of course, I knew that this entire Slavic area of the European continent was [very recently] rife with political tension and civil unrest. The result of which sparked years of bloody wars culminating in both great losses for many of the citizens and great victories for each independent nation. I knew this because when I was younger, my sister and father each had friends from the area. But eleven-year old Greg was more interested in tuning in to see how MacGyver was going to use a pocketknife to escape from a flooding submarine than he was to tuning into C-SPAN.
I find that most of my current reading and research regarding the evolution of the world we know today pre-dates what I would call, “modern-history”. I love to read about the Roman or Greek Empires. I am intrigued by all the British Colonies and absolutely love the history of my native America and my adopted Italy. It didn’t really occur to me that major territorial lines were still being redrawn through force as recently as the 90’s. Sixteen-year old Greg was more focused on deciding which plaid Abercrombie shirt best matched his denim jean jacket. It was even more shocking to just recently learn that an entire country as significant as Montenegro could become independently recognized less than a decade ago (they were granted independence in May of 2006). And even though I could easily cite another example of something else that preoccupied my time when the referendum was signed on May 21st 2006…. it would be embarrassing since I was clearly an adult eight years ago. Even as I write these words, Ukraine is fighting [a losing battle] with Russia over Crimea, further proving that nothing in this world is permanent.
I was recently intrigued with the matter of Yugoslavia by chance. Shortly after we moved to Italy, a friend sent me an article – one of those “Places You Have To See” type things. He and I both agreed that Montengro appeared to be one of the most stunning locations on the list. This was the first I had heard of Montenegro and I was excited when Google maps confirmed that this young country was close to Italy. I knew that I wasn’t going to leave Europe without setting foot on her shores. I recently had that opportunity when we embarked on a cruise with Celebrity Cruises. Our cruise began in Rome, Italy (HERE and HERE) and continued to Florence, Italy (HERE) before moving onto Corfu, Greece (HERE) – but not without a couple pitstops in some of the ship’s wonderful restaurants (HERE).
A couple days before arriving in Kotor, Montenegro I was given an interesting narrative of the city, as well as a brief history of Yugoslavia by none other than my favorite blackjack dealer, Brajuško (you’ve got to talk about something to pass the time while you’re splitting your 8’s and doubling down on your 11’s). He was a native of a neighboring city and recounted an interesting personal history of his country’s independence.
Kotor hosts about 13,000 inhabitants. The fortified city rests along the shores in the Gulf of Kotor – an ancient Mediterranean port. The city was first settled in 168 BC by the Ancient Romans. The city became fortified in the middle ages when it’s importance in the region grew (port cities were often crown jewels of any large empire and therefore targeted by many outside invaders). The city eventually fell under the control of the First Bulgarian Empire before becoming acknowledged by the Republic of Venice in 1420. This Venetian control over the city was evident to me as we walked up to the city gates and saw the Winged Lion of Saint Mark. This symbol marks the cities that were under the control of the Venetians… a symbol that we encounter regularly across northern Italy.
The Winged Lion of Saint Marco immediately told the story of Venetian control
Jen and I both awoke early on the day we were set to arrive in Kotor. This was fortunate because we had not yet arrived in port and our large sea craft was slowly drifting through the narrow gulf. We got to bear witness to the massive ship deftly navigating the shallow waterway. We thread through the narrow aqua valley like an accurate strike thrown from Aikman to Irvin. There were times when I felt as though I could easily toss a peanut off either side of the ship, only to have it find dry land.
Our massive ship skillfully navigated the narrow waterwaysOur only footprint was a small ripple as we navigated through the gulf
As soon as our ship cleared the local port authority, we were first in line to take one of the tenders (little boats that deliver you to shore when the ship has to stay some distance from the port). We walked through the city walls with eager anticipation. Kotor is truly one of Europe’s best preserved cities of the medieval era and Renaissance. I was thoroughly impressed with the local receiving committee. Dozens of locals had prepared for our reception with tables full of local treats and plenty of people positioned to give tourist information.
We reach the shores of KotorI was particularly excited about this port of callMy enthusiasm rubbed off on my two girls
Before we had the chance to take in the main sites of the city, the sky decided to give us the wonderful gift of rain (note the sarcastic tone). We ducked into a local cafe to wait out the wet weather and check our email. Since we had gone ashore without umbrellas or Julia’s rain cover, we found ourselves stuck for nearly an hour. As the time ticked by, we got restless and tried to set out once again. The weather hadn’t improved so we decided our best option was to head back to the ship and collect our rain gear. We also had the benefit of eating a free lunch on the ship before returning to Kotor, properly dressed and equipped for anything.
We ducked into a small cafeJulia steered the tender boat back to the ship while we waited out the rain
Fortunately, the sun made an appearance in the afternoon and we got to see the old Town Clock Tower, dating from 1602. We visited 17th century palaces and 11th century churches. We went in Regional Institute for the Preservation of Culture Moments. We strolled along ancient cobblestone streets that made me concerned I might come face to face with a 600 year-old vampire at any moment. My eyes kept glancing up the hill (the town is nestled at the base of a mountain) toward the Church of Our Lady Remedy (Црква Госпе од здравља or Црква Марије Колеђате) with the idea to climb the city walls toward her massive doors. Jen read the idea in my mind before the words were formed by my mouth and quickly put a kibosh on that plan. She had to remind me that it was a few-hundred meter climb along a slick stone path with a stroller and kid before I relented. There were still enough sites in the city to keep me entertained and so I agreed to stay closer to sea level.
Pima Palace 17th centurySt. Triphon’s Cathedral, 1166Beautiful historic buildingsCharming piazzasAncient cobblestone streets…wait, is there a vampire in the background? Oh no, it’s just a shadowThe Gurdic Gate – the south gate, 1540
We thoroughly enjoyed Kotor and I would recommend a visit to this magical place to anyone interested. If you happen to make it to this part of Europe, plan a few extra days and visit some of Montenegro’s beautiful beaches. They have some fabulous looking resorts that I hope to visit myself some day.
Oh, I would be remiss not to mention that night’s entertainment. Julia had recently become best of friends with a young girl named Ava and we had become good friends with her parents and their family. Jen forced me onstage with our friends, Catherine, Mike and Feng to be “hypnotized” by David Knight, one of the world’s preeminent hypnotists. I eventually excused myself from the stage, but not before there was some “sexy dancing” and “piano playing”.
David Knight puts Catherine and me (background) under his tranceI think he had a stronger hold over Cat than he did over meThe girls were thoroughly entertainedWe joined the Ni family for dinner after the showJulia treated us to a song after dinner
If you’ve been a reader of this [travel] blog for sometime, I may have convinced you about the benefits of cruising. You might even think that I’m lobbying for a job with one of the major cruise companies… and seeing as how I’ll need to resume gainful employment sooner rather than later, you may just be right. If I haven’t yet convinced you to book your next vacation on a massive floating wonderland, let me quickly state my case once again. Cruising offers you the opportunity to be pampered day and night while visiting far-off locales in multiple countries without unpacking more than once. You can soak up culture, splurge on shopping, enjoy theatre, gamble in the casino, relax in the spa or simply sit in your room and enjoy room service while taking in the most magical of views.
Julia is no stranger to being pampered. It scares me that my two year old now hands me the phone and tells me to “order dinner”
On top of all that, you will enjoy delectable cuisine any time of day or night. In my opinion (which, I’ve found is more fact than opinion since I’m right 98.8% of the time… just ask Jen), one of the best things about cruising is the food. I once read that the weight gain for your average cruise-goer can be up to a pound a day (do the math for a two week cruise). If the food can be the star of the show, truth be told – it can also be the downfall of your vacation if you’re served meals that are no better than bad banquet food (and you thought you had a lousy meal at Moritz Rosenstien’s bar mitzvah?). That is why careful research about your cruise line (and more importantly, the specific cruise ship) is of the utmost importance. We chose our most recent Mediterranean cruise on one of Celebrity Cruises newest ships, the Silhouette based on the itinerary and overwhelmingly positive reviews of the food. We were not disappointed.
“Tell me more, Dad. Give me the ins and outs of it all!”
It works like this; your per person cruise fare includes all the food in most of the ship’s restaurants. It will not include alcohol or soda, but you can purchase these “extras” with a drink package or à la carte as you go. Most ships have one or two main dining halls, where you can opt to eat your sit-down breakfast and dinner, paired at tables with other guests or by yourself (the choice is yours). This is where you will have your “fixed” dining time for dinner, although it is entirely up to you if you want to show up. Some cruise lines (Norwegian Cruise Lines) opt for a “freestyle” type of dining, so you just show up whenever you want. Nowadays, even the “fixed” dining times are fairly flexible on most ships. If you don’t want to slip out of your wife-beater and into a collared shirt, you’ll want to meander to the buffet on the upper level of the ship. Here you can serve yourself breakfast, lunch and dinner from the vast array of options (anything from contemporary American to Indian). At peak meal times you’d better have a “table-holder” and a “food-runner” who is not afraid to “throw bows“; it does get crowded. Don’t let any of those little old blue hairs fool you – they get serious about being next in line at the omelet station! Finally, you’ll have another casual restaurant near the pool deck – a pizza and/or burger joint. This is the basic formula for most cruise ships. Beyond that, larger ships have a few extra “free” options and then their “specialty dining” options.
In the main dining room where, on the last night they had a party to introduce the entire staff
The specialty dining restaurants usually range from $15/per person to $50/per person (not including gratuity). We found that on our Holland America cruise last summer onboard the Nieuw Amsterdam, their specialty dining was a steal. For $60 total (including tip), we ate at the Pinnacle Grill, a fabulous steak house – a meal that would easily approach $300 in any major city (that story is at the bottom of this post). On our next cruise this past winter on board the Silhouette, our ship offered more dining options, but at more of a premium. At $110+ per meal ($45/pp plus tip) we knew that we wouldn’t be able to enjoy all their fabulous specialty dining options – many of which feature James Beard chefs (Qsine, Blu, Murano, Tuscan Grill, Lawn Club, Bistro on Five and Bacio Gelateria). We had to choose carefully among them… and I think we nailed it!
The chef’s are like rock stars. Here, our Executive Chef (Anthony R. Wilson) ascends through the stage floor like he’s Mick JaggerJulia was quite literally knocked off her seat at the spectacle
Since this is not only a travelblog but also a foodblog (identity crisis, much?), I have used this post to feature two of the “specialty dining” restaurants on the Silhouette. This post is dedicated to two fabulous (is there a stronger word than fabulous? If so… insert it please) meals that we enjoyed at Qsine and Murano. I have included a description of each restaurant, copied directly from the company website.
♠♣♥♦ ♠♣♥♦ ♠♣♥♦
Qsine® offers a culinary journey that delivers elements of surprise and delight. Our James Beard featured Master Chef created Qsine to give you something you’ve never experienced before—on land or at sea. Leave any preconceived notions behind. Dig in and try new things. It’s time your palate got a wakeup call. Our iPad® menus make your dining experience even more fun and interactive.
“Popcorn” Fish n’ Chips – Boddingtons Battered Codfish & Chips, Malt Vinegar or AioliSushi Lollipops – Nigiri Sushi, Soy Center, Wasabi Mayo & Pickled Ginger-Radish SaladDisco Shrimp – Bouillon Poached Tiger Shrimp, Avocado, Tomato & Celery, with Cocktail Aioli and Crunchy ToppingsLava Crab – Alaskan King Crab, Sweet Yellow Corn & Scallions, Kataifi with Old-Bay Lobster SauceLobster Escargot – Lobster & Escargot Fritters with Parsley-Garlic Butter SauceSlider Party – Grilled Angus Beef Patties, Aged Wisconsin Cheddar, “Qsine Slider Sauce”, Brioche Buns & Garnishes…Taco “Royale” – Black Angus Sirloin Steak, Unordinary Tacos, Caramelized Onion-Poblano & Mortar Pestle GuacamoleJulia needed a chefs hat to properly mix the guacamolePainter’s Mignon – Filet Mignon with palatable pleasersYou can use the “surprise” puzzle box to select your dessertOr they’ll just show up with candied lollipops to tease your senses
♠♣♥♦ ♠♣♥♦ ♠♣♥♦
Impeccable service, classic design, world-class cuisine and comfortable sophistication are celebrated to the utmost in Murano. Experience tableside lobster presentation, an expansive selection of artisanal cheeses from around the world, or the extensive American and French wine list.
Charming and timeless, Murano transports you, through palate and décor, to a modern and sophisticated level of dining.
Jen and I are all aglow while attending an adult dinner without kids forks and sippy cupsThe lobster bisque had a wonderful table side presentationCreamy Maine Lobster Bisque – Leek and Shallot Flan, Cognac Cream, Crispy Sweet Yellow Corn BeignetsPork Belly – Parsnip Purée, Caramelized Apples, Calvados JusWarm Goat Cheese Soufflé – Smoked Tomato Coulis, Parmesan Cream, Basil PestoSmoked Salmon & Peekytoe Crab Parfait – Layered with Avocado, Salmon Caviar, Crème Fraîche, Petite GreensJen’s lobster was prepared table side – this poor guy almost never left the side of our table with all of his various preparationsSome of the ingredients mixed in to her lobster dishGreg’s Herb Crusted Lamb Rack – Pea Purée, Tomato Confit, Baby Carrots, Spice Meatball, Garlic JusJen’s Murano Lobster – Cognac Flambéed Warm Water Lobster Tail, Fresh Basil, Applewood Smoked Bacon, Dijon-CreamA Fine Selection of Artisan Cheeses served with Pain de Campagne and Dry FruitsMy cheese plateWOW!Caramel and White Coffee Ice Cream, Dolce, Far Niente, Napa ValleyGrand Marnier Soufflé – Crème Anglaise á la Gousse TahitienneCrêpe with fresh fruit topping prepared table side
We were drawn in by the fun food-play in Qsine and the ability to order our meal on iPads. The food and ambiance did not disappoint. We thoroughly enjoyed our meal at Murano because we had a built in surprise. My parents wanted to give Jen this meal for her birthday and even included four hours of “in-room” babysitting for Julia, which was even sweeter than the restaurant’s jaw dropping desserts. And in case you were counting, yes – that was four appetizers and three desserts in Murano (and countless dishes in Qsine). I mean, once you pay the price of admission… it’s all included, after all!
I hope you enjoyed taking another culinary voyage with me (this time on the high seas). I hope your taste buds were satisfied. Tune back in soon when we conclude our cruise with visits to Montenegro, Croatia, Sicily and Naples. Ciao tutti!
It’s been nearly a month and a half since my last meaningful post and I am once again faced with the monumental task of getting caught back up. I’m not sure how or why I allowed myself to get so far behind, but I do know that I have left myself a lot of work. The wine, cheese and salami will just have to wait (well, I suppose it can’t hurt to have a little wine while I write). I would like to apologize to my readers for this delay and I would like to acknowledge one loyal reader in particular; Helen actually reached out to me through our Contact Us page and basically said, “what the hell, Greg – where’ve you been?!” Helen and everyone – even though it can’t excuse the lack of content, we just got back from a two-week trip to the States where, in my capacity as Best Man, I roasted my good buddy Josh and toasted his beautiful bride, Abby (read about Josh and Abby’s trip to visit us here and here).
While we were home, I rediscovered some magical things – burritos, quality customer service and Netflix. We haven’t watched as much TV over the past year as we did over the past two weeks. I became obsessed with the Netflix original series, House of Cards – an amazing drama starring, Kevin Spacey as Frank Underwood, a cagey and politically ambitious congressman who is constantly scheming and conniving to reach the next rung of the political ladder. If Frank Underwood can work through all hours of the night and stay ten moves ahead of his opposition, surely I can bang out a few extra blog posts in the next couple weeks.
You and me both, Frank
We still have tons of travel left to do together – I’ve only written about the very first part of our cruise late last year and so much has happened since. So put on your boating shoes and let’s get going…
Here we go again!
When I last left you, we had already visited Rome (here and here) before hitting the Mediterranean Sea for Florence. We spent the next day at sea (which means there is no port and therefore no disembarking the ship), which can often be my favorite time onboard a cruise ship. We tend to pick our cruises based on the ports of call, but I always like to be sure there are two or three sea days allotted in the itinerary. It may sound crazy – but it’s nice to have a day to relax in the middle of it all. Carrying a toddler, stroller, backpack (and sometimes even a wife) across miles and miles of city streets, on and off tour buses and in and out of museums [while rewarding] is a lot of work. To have a day where you cannot do anything other than enjoy your ship’s amenities is a pretty sweet prospect. That, and I like to gamble – sea day’s are the only time you can sit in the casino all day (or as long as your wife can tolerate being left alone with your child).
A dormant volcano visible from the ship while we sailed past SicilyApparently, gambling is a part of our blood line – Julia enjoys the Casino as much as I doFirst she hit the slotsNext, she discovered the blackjack tables – that is definitely my little girl
The first sea day was also the first “formal night” and so we all three enjoyed an opportunity to get dressed up and go to dinner. I was up a little after a hard day playing blackjack and so I was in high spirits. The delicious prime rib they served helped to keep me and my tummy happy (they even brought it out “bloody and still mooing with a mountain of horseradish”, just like I asked) . After dinner, we took in a very enjoyable show and went to bed content with a day of doing… well, not much of anything.
Ready for a fun “night on the town”Julia let me take her for a spin on the dance floor before dinnerJulia and Jen at dinner
The next day we woke up at port in Corfu, Greece. It was drizzling and we had a long day at port in a relatively small city, so we decided we would try to wait out the rain on the ship. We spent the morning participating in some of the cheesy activities organized by the ship’s Cruise Director (imagine a business team building activity). It would have been an uneventful morning if it had not been for a strengthening bond between two little girls who would quickly be known as the fastest of friends onboard Celebrity’s Silhouette. Ava had met Julia in one of the cafe’s the day before and she didn’t hesitate to chat her up on either occasion. She was likely craving companionship of someone close to her own age (Ava is about a year older). The two instantly clicked and after the game, they spent some time dancing, playing and “conversing” (if you can consider each girl stating her independent and random observations a conversation).
We meandered about the ship while we waited for the clouds to disperseAva found a new friend in Julia and Julia discovered her new hero
As the girls played, we spent some time getting to know Ava’s parents, Catherine and Jim without realizing that we were making fast friends of our own. After just a few minutes talking with Cat and Jim, we learned that they have a close-knit family too – they were cruising with Jim’s brother, “Uncle” Mike and his wife, Feng as well as the boy’s parents – Bob and Dorothy. The entire family was very pleasant and even though we didn’t realize it at the time, we were forming a relationship with a big family we would “adopt” as our own for the remainder of the cruise. Eventually, the rain let up and we took our leave for Corfu.
A panoramic of Corfu, Greece
Corfu is a Greek Island dating back to 1300 BC when it was first inhabited by the Phaeacians. The history of the island is a story penned by bloody battles and conquests. This is evidenced by the two fortresses that enclose the capital city; two formidable structures standing as pillars of protection against would-be invaders from the sea . Jen and I decided that we were up for a walk and so we strolled from the ship, past the “New” Fortress (Νέο Φρούριο) and into the downtown area. We meandered past ancient churches and charming shops and restaurants when heard a tiny, little voice scream, “Juila”! It was her new friend Ava, who came barreling up and generously gave Julia a big hug and a piece of her bread. We kept hiking past the outskirts of town and into the Old Fortress (Παλαιό Φρούριο) – a citadel that offers the most magnificent panoramic of the ancient city, justifiably deemed a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Strolling through the city streets and taking in the shopsThe city streets of ancient Corfu are full of charmWe walked past beautiful churchesWe came across Ava eating lunch with her familyOld Fortress (Παλαιό Φρούριο)The Old Fortress and church that was built on the grounds for the soldiersCrossing the drawbridge toward the Old FortressThe church and Old Fortress high atop the rocksJen and Julia stroll across a desolate stretch on their way toward the churchA view of the sea from the fortress wallsJen and Julia take in the viewFrom the top of the cliff, we had a great view of the city and our shipJulia sits along a fortress wall with Corfu in the backgroundShe gives me a big hugJen wanted to get in on that action
After a pleasant and rewarding day, we concluded our self-guided tour when we missed the last bus back to the ship, thereby closing the loop on our long walk by hustling back to the ship on foot. We were just moments away from getting back on a course of exploration throughout eastern Europe, just as I am back on track blogging. For any other HOC (House of Cards) fans out there, imagine me concluding this post with two quick raps of my class ring on the desk. Frank Underwood would be proud!
We recently had the most amazing vacation aboard Holland America’s Nieuw Amsterdam and I have had a wonderful time writing about it. I have discovered even more about each destination as I’ve researched them further and I have had the pleasure of reliving it all over again as I post the pictures. I hope that you’ve enjoyed your time aboard with us. Sadly, I will close this chapter of our overseas adventure and move onto the next story in an upcoming post. There is still plenty more to come in the blog pipeline…
“Dad, wrap this up already – you’re putting us all to sleep!”
If you joined us thus far, you’ll know we visited Venice, Olympia and Athens in our first post and then Istanbul and Lesbos in the second post. The final leg of our cruise transports us to Kuşadası, Santorini and Argostoli. As always, we’ll include some of our shipboard life and hopefully you’ll be able to stick with me – I’ve got a ton of pictures in this final post.
When I last left you, we were sailing away from the Greek island of Lesbos and I was getting knocked out of a blackjack tournament final table with some unlucky cards. The only thing that could wash away that feeling of despair was some spiritual enlightenment. Sure, they have a chapel aboard the ship – but I think strolling directly from the casino into the chapel is the sort of thing that the Big Guy frowns upon, so I waited for our port the following day.
We woke up in Kuşadası, Turkey – a beautiful resort town on the Aegean coast; wonderful in it’s own right, but not our intended destination. We were set to visit, Ephesus – an ancient city with a plethora of historic treasures. There are two main spectacles to behold within the vicinity of Ephesus – the Ancient City itself and the House of the Virgin Mary. Since the terrain was difficult to access and far from the ship, we hired a private driver to bring us to the notable sites. We first started with the House of the Virgin Mary, arriving fairly early in the morning. This small home was said to be the final home and final resting place of the Virgin Mary, carried here to live out her final days by St. John, the Apostle. Our early arrival time did little to help put us in a tolerable position in the queue (yes, I just “British’d” it up). The house is both a Catholic and Muslim shrine (so… um, yeah – number one and two religions in term of size). Given that fact, the line would normally be long – but we happened to arrive on the most “holy” of days. The annual pilgrimage to the House of the Virgin Mary coincided with our visit and threatened to consume our entire day along with the thousands of other visitors cramming in to see a tiny house.
Jen and Julia in front of the House of the Virgin Mary
A bronze statue of the Virgin Mary welcomes all visitors
As spiritually enlightening as seeing a 150 sq. foot home could be (admittedly, this was more my wife’s gig than mine), I was not thrilled at the prospect of standing in line under the hot sun all day. I saw an alternative option and struck with military precision when the time was right. First, I set out on a reconnaissance mission to scout additional routes for people with strollers. Coming up empty handed in that department, I formulated a plan. When I returned to Jen and Julia standing in line, I uttered the following words verbatim; “follow me, don’t ask any questions, don’t stall and keep up with my pace”. You see, my wife is a perpetual “rule follower” and I am a habitual “rule breaker”. Her innocence often thwarts my plans for easy advancement – but I think she was on board this time; moving at a snails pace under a hot Turkish sun will cause any mother to want to move! We whisked past the crowds, through an outdoor church service and out the other end to a gate immediately in front of the house. It certainly helped that I was pushing a baby stroller and can dish a kind smile that I reserve for occasions like these. My little stunt saved us an estimated three hours (no exaggeration). Jen was pleased with my shenanigans for once… now maybe I can convince her to come over to the dark side.
Just a portion of the long line that was making the annual pilgrimage to see the house
Mary would not approve of my behavior – I did have a baby to worry about though
Jen lights a candle to ask forgiveness for my shenangins
Our next stop was the the Ancient City of Ephesus. Artifacts excavated on site have proved that there were inhabitants in this area as far back as the Neolithic Age (6,000 BC), with consistent development throughout the Bronze Age and into the Archaic Period, when the city really began to prosper (650 BC). The city changed from Greek to Roman and finally into Turkish domain in 1304. Today, archeologists are constantly amazed by the plethora of treasures being discovered on a continual basis. The prevailing theory is that they have only unearthed a fraction of the city (a lot of major discoveries were made as recently as the 1970’s), but limited funds have slowed down excavation and restoration efforts. Some of the more notable discoveries are the Temple of Artemis, which is one of the Seven Ancient Wonders of the World and the Library of Celsus, which appeared on the Turkish Lira between 2001 and 2009.
We passed this large Virgin Mary on the way to the Ancient City
Standing next to the Basilica Stoa
Julia decides to lead the tour for our little group
“Peekaboo!”
“Look at me!”
The Bouleuterion (100 AD) housed the meetings of the council
Julia and I hiked all the way to the top of the Bouleuterion
Street lined with archeological excavations
The Temple of Domitian (81 AD)
The Curetes Street – a main boulevard prestigiously equipped with marble paving and home to many boutiques
The Deep Traveler statue recovered in 2013 dates back to 1980 – Jen’s favorite piece
The Trajan Fountain (102 AD)
The Temple of Hadrian (138 AD) – one of the most stunning ruins along the Curetes Street
We discovered a seldom seen gem, the Latriana
Public latrines where residents would literally sit cheek to cheek
Family photo in front of the Celsus Library
Tiberius Julius Aquila commissioned the Celsus Library (110 AD) as a mausoleum for his father
Column base with writing from Ancient Greek times
A market enclosed the exit gate of the ancient city – I happened to love this guy’s honesty
The next stop on our cruise was the port I was most excited about above all our other destinations – Santorini, Greece. Images of white homes with blue trim overlooking the Aegean danced in my head all night. Our wonderful Cruise Director, Anthony and Location Guide, Tom would televise a show about each port prior to our arrival. Through this in-room broadcast, I learned that Santorini (Σαντορίνη) sits perched high atop a cliff, with three ways to ascend. You can traverse the vertical 260 meters (853 feet) by climbing a difficult 580 steps (not ideal for couples with strollers) or you could opt to take the cable car for a fast and scenic arrival. Finally, you can chose to climb the absolute best way possible – by donkey!! Believe me, it was not easy to sell this option to Jen – but I never take “no” for an answer. We had an absolute blast climbing, laughing and trying not to fall off. I don’t think Julia has ever had so much fun in her life and I haven’t laughed quite so hard as I did to the shrieks of pure terror coming from Jen. The donkeys climb the pathway unassisted and will [at times] pin you against a wall while they wait for the overcrowding of ascending and descending donkeys to clear. All in all – a wonderful experience.
“eehh-aaaww!”
“You want me to carry you AND you’re baby?!”
The guide helps us on – that was the last we saw of him, this donkey was on autopilot
And w’ere off
Julia wanted to take a turn on her own
Santorini is an island unlike any we’ve ever seen. First of all, the entire complex of islands was formed by a volcanic eruption over 60 million years ago. The city today is essentially what remains after a more recent volcanic explosion in the modern age (this area is the most active volcanic area in the South Volcanic Aegean Arc). Santorini is financially supported by the bustling tourism industry; not surprising as ours was one of three cruise ships waiting patiently off shore for the tenders to bring passengers back and forth. In fact, Santorini was the only port to provide their own tenders – much larger boats than any cruise ship could provide in order to bring more people ashore quickly. It is actually quite smart of them to recognize that opportunity.
Horsing around with daddy
And then mommy
The blue ocean was simply magnificent
Julia is kind enough to share her drink with me
As well as her mother
This guy was selling freshly caught lobsters – look at the size of those beauties
Family photo
My two girls
Santorini
“I love this place!”
The blue domed churches were exactly what I envisioned
Some of the resorts offered stunning views – of all our ports, we want to come back to Santorini the most
A city unlike any other
I thought this was a great “artistic” shot – I was later validated when I saw this image in a travel magazine
From Homer’s Odyssey?
Here you can really get a sense of the volcanic caldera upon which the city was built
The white houses and blue domed roofs were just as promised
Climbing up a portion of the volcano – just off the beaten path
Jen covers Julia from the sun
#HollandAmerica would have these amazing reception areas at every port before re-boarding the ship
Sailing away gave you a true sense of the grandeur of the island
After Santorini, we saw the end of our cruise approaching quickly. I think we both somewhat dismissed our final destination, since neither of us had heard of Argostoli, Greece (in fact, when we woke up at port Jen proclaimed, “Oh! We have another stop?!”). Quietly dismissing Argostoli (Αργοστόλι) as, “just another stop” was foolish since it turned out to be one of the most pleasant days we experienced. The island is one of the larger of Greek Isles and was has the pleasure of hosting gorgeous beaches.
Family photo in front of the aqua-green waters of Argostoli
We passed through a brief section of woods before arriving at the beach
The beach opened before us like a butterfly spreading it’s wings for the first time (too much??)
You can never go wrong when you can rent straw beach umbrellas for the day
There were tons of people in the warm water
When we pulled away from Argostoli, we had one final “formal night” aboard the ship. Holland America went all out for this final night and served lobster tails and filet mignon in many of the ship’s restaurants.
Family photo in the Manhattan Dining Room on the formal night
Jen and Julia get ready for their meals
We started with foie gras
We each ordered surf and turf
The last day aboard was a sea day and so the world was our oyster. As always, there were plenty of activities to keep us entertained. One activity in particular caught my eye – a behind the scenes tour of the Nieuw Amsterdam’s amazing kitchen. We got to walk through their massive, industrial kitchen and I learned a few interesting facts about our ship. A kitchen crew of 150 individuals prepare food for 223 service staff to serve the guests each day. Each week 11,830 lbs of meat is consumed aboard the ship. A fact that I thought was staggering until I learned that 1,675 lbs of butter is also consumed each week (yuck – heart attack)! The tour was wonderful and the crew gave Julia one of their display crabs made from cooked bread dough.
The Executive Chef, Daniel Hergic poses with two of his chefs
A display of some of their finer beef and lamb
The form of their “bread-animal” displays before they were cooked
And then the final product. Julia got to keep the crab (the missing gap in the middle)
Included in the cost of most cruises is unlimited food at a variety of restaurants (casual dining, poolside dining, room service and the main dining rooms). Many cruise ships also offer the option to pay a nominal fee for more specialized dining (usually between $15 – $35/pp). On our previous cruise, Norwegian Cruise Line had a Japanese steak house complete with hibachi show. On our last day aboard the Nieuw Amsterdam, we decided to try two of the three specialized restaurants. We had a lunch of dim-sum in the Tamarind Restaurant, an upscale Asian specialty restaurant and then finish our cruise with a celebratory dinner at the Pinnacle Grill, a five-star steakhouse. Our last dinner was made even more special when the casino sent a bottle of wine to our room prior to dinner and then another one to the table as we dined! What a wonderful way to cap off the most amazing vacation of our lives.
We started with a hot and sour soup
Asian Herb Szechuan Sesame Salad
Steamed classic dumplings and a mixture of items from the wok, paired with fried rice
Later that night, at the Pinnacle Grill…
Jen started with a lobster bisque made tableside
Lobster bisque with crème fraîche and aged cognac
My caesar salad with homemade dressing, grated parmesan cheese, garlic croutons and anchovies, prepared tableside
My porterhouse with horseradish-mustard and master chef’s green peppercorn on the side
Jen ordered the lobster tail on a bed of wilted spinach and arugula, with “mango-churri” pesto sauce
Julia thanks Captain Edward G. van Zaane
Thank you Holland America for hosting us and thank you for reading all about it!
In my most recent blog post, we embarked on a cruise throughout the Mediterranean. I’d love for you to continue the adventure with us as we head to Istanbul, Turkey and the beautiful Greek island of, Lesbos. I’ll finalize our voyage in an upcoming post that will include the final ports of call and some more stories about our shipboard life.
“Oh, tell me… tell me all about it!”
When I last left you, we had visited Venice, Olympia and Athens. By this point in the cruise, we really hit our stride and had fully immersed ourselves in everything Holland America’sNieuw Amsterdam had to offer. We were overeating delicious food (and then trying to work some of it off in their state-of-the-art gym), spending time in the casino (maybe too much time… literally every casino worker knew me by name), taking in shows and making friends all over the ship. We found a couple of other families with small children, but for the most part – we were in the minority (not fitting into your typical “cruise-goer” demographic). I’ll tell you what… if you ever want affirmation about your kids cuteness – go on a cruise with thousands of grandparents missing their grandkids. They were all so happy to pay us compliments about Julia that it made us excited to take her anywhere on board.
Julia made friends wherever she went
She gained a large following of fans
That grew the longer we were on board
Midway through the cruise, we arrived in Istanbul, Turkey. This was to be the only port mid-voyage that had an overnight stay, allowing us two days to explore the massive city. To describe Istanbul as “massive” is underselling it. The city boasts a population of nearly 14 million people in the urban area alone and is ranked as the second largest city in the world ranked by population within city limits [source]. It is the only city in the world that stretches across two continents (Europe and Asia). Istanbul is home to over 3,000 mosques and welcomes nearly 12 million visitors each year. These are just a few of the fun facts about this amazing city, so yeah… massive really undersold it! If only there was some sort of book… kind of like a dictionary… that would give you alternate versions for specific words…
When we got off the ship on the first day, we took a bus directly to the Grand Bazaar. This location was ideal, because it would afford us the time we wanted to shop and then walk around that particular area of the city. We walked through the gates of the Grand Bazaar and our mouths dropped. I still remember the first time I went to a flea market. My great aunt Barbara took me to a market in New York when I was 8 years old. I was awestruck by all the amazing things that could be found with just a little looking. She bought me a brand new GIJoe Cobra Stun vehicle that I probably still have in a basement somewhere to this day. If I could reconstruct that image of my first market in my mind, with all my boyish enthusiasm and multiply it by a hundred – it couldn’t reach the level of awe I found myself in as a man standing in the Grand Bazaar. You can even factor in the fact that I had a wife repeatedly telling me, “I’m ready to shop – make sure you have plenty of Euro’s handy” weighing on my mind!
Main Gate of the Grand Bazaar
Shops extend around the outside of Grand Bazaar
The Grand Bazaar is like nothing we’ve ever seen. It is an enclosed market that ranks among the oldest in the world. 61 city streets house 3,000 shops that eagerly accept the money of up to 400,000 visitors every single day. This does not include the open air markets that have been built around the Bazaar and dominate many more city streets. Originally, each shopkeeper was allotted a 6′ or 8′ dolap (stall) in which to showcase their wares, the finest of which were kept hidden in drawers. The market was erected after the Ottoman Empire between 1455 and 1460. It reached it’s final form in the 17th century and not much has changed since. The main reason for the collective, enclosed space were to prevent against theft, fire and uprising. Even though the Turkish Lira is the currency of the country, merchants accept US dollars, Euros or Turkish Lira.
Jen and Julia enter the Grand Bazaar
Some teas for sale
The Turkish nargile (hookah) became popular during the Ottoman Empire
Jen and Julia with a Turkish flag behind them
Julia was fascinated with the beautiful lamps
Jen and I pause for a picture in the market
We didn’t notice any food vendors or restaurants inside the Bazaar – it turns out, the merchants have been bringing their lunches in boxes called sefertas for hundreds of years. However, they can get simple dishes like döner kebabs delivered right to their stalls (although, it’s more common for one of the merchants to bring back lunch for the entire shop). What I did notice quite a bit (and became somewhat fascinated with) was the bustling tea delivery business. Turkish tea is a huge part of the culture throughout the country. Tea is most often consumed in Turkish households – offering it to guests is a part of Turkish hospitality. It’s no different in the Bazaar; the custom of drinking tea blends the important tradition hospitality with the other main component for drinking the tea – the social congregation of men. Tea runners (as I was calling them) would skillfully whisk past the crowds and deliver un-spilled tea by balancing the cups on a tray with a long handle. What fascinated me the most was that I never saw any money exchanged for the tea. I imagined the tea runners marking how much tea a merchant drank and collecting on the tab at the end of the week. I have searched the internet to prove or disprove my theory of a “tab” system – but I could not find anything. Any Turkish merchants or Tea Salesmen reading this – please weigh in.
Guys like these would run all over the market, delivering tea
*photo credit – flickr: photographer unknown
We spent hours navigating the maze that is the Grand Bazaar before we realized the sun was setting. Our intention was to walk the city around after we’d shopped. We had the flexibility to stay out as long as we liked because our ship wasn’t leaving until the next day; although we agreed that we were ready to head “home” for the night and set out early the next day. It turns out that it was a good thing we did! The ship was hosting a Turkish Taraf – a poolside party complete with live music, a Turkish belly-dancer, exotic drinks and spicy kebabs. An outdoor pool party is always a great thing, but if you have the shimmering city lights and uplight mosques of Istanbul framing the backdrop (and did I mention the belly-dancer), there is no greater party combination in the world (this is coming from the guy that was basically the President of Parties in college).
A variety of wine was served at the party – live band in the background
The Blue Mosque at night
The quarter moon looked exactly like quarter moon on the Turkish flag
They were grilling authentic Turkish food
The belly dancer takes the stage
She recruited guests to help her move and move their own hips
The pool was decorated with lights
The crew dressed the part
The scenery was beautiful
The next day we got an early start – with so much of the city left to take in, we wanted to get in as much as physically possible. We decided we would try to beat most of the crowds and start with the mosque’s. Specifically, the Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque – which sit opposite one another. We only ended up touring the Sultan Ahmed Mosque – or Blue Mosque, as it’s commonly called due to it’s blue tiles that adorn the inside walls. The mosque’s construction began in 1609 when it was commissioned by Sultan Ahmed I to not just rival the Hagia Sophia, but to surpass it. The mosque has an unprecedented six minarets (still the only mosque in Istanbul with six to this day), which garnished the wrath of the public. The display of six minarets was preserved for the Prophet’s mosque in Mecca – therefore the Sultan was criticized for incorrectly thinking that he was the man. The prevailing urban legend is that there was a miscommunication in which the Sultan told his architect he wanted gold minarets (altin minare) and the architect understood six minarets (alti minare). Seems fishy to me – sounds like he concocted a scapegoat to shift the heat off himself. Ultimately, he corrected the situation by shelling out the dough to build a seventh minaret on the Prophet’s mosque in Mecca. Whatever the correct history, it was fascinating to absorb in the first person.
We started our day before the city really woke up – just shop keepers setting up
Sulton Ahmed Mosque (the Blue Mosque)
Approaching the mosque
We had fun playing in front of a fountain
Julia steals my hat – I guess she wanted to block the sun
Hagia Sophia Mosque
All female visitors are required to wear proper garments
The ceiling and some of the blue tiles that are the reason for the nickname, Blue Mosque
The mosque sees a large number of visitors every day
It’s impossible not to gaze upward at the amazing display of over 20,000 handmade tiles
Jen and Julia in the mosque
Family photo in the mosque
Another family photo
After the mosque tour, we headed northeast by foot to the Topkapi Palace. The palace was the primary residence of Ottoman Sultans for over 400 years. To this day, the residence consumes more land mass along the shoreline than any other single property and has been deemed by UNESCO as “the best example of ensembles of places of the Ottoman period.” We were very excited to see the palace, but unfortunately it was closed and so we had to settle for a stroll through the public gardens.
Inside the gardens of the Topkapi Palace
This unique tree appeared as if it had tattoos
After a long walk to our next destination, we first wanted to stop and have lunch. I had been dying for one thing since arriving in Turkey – a döner kebab. We found a restaurant that looked perfect and ducked inside for lunch. Just prior to walking in, we heard the adhan, called out by the muezzin from mosques across the city – amplified by loudspeakers. More commonly known in English as the call to prayer, this unique chant is called out five times a day, summoning Muslims for mandatory worship. After lunch we entered the famous Spice Bazaar – the center for spice trade in Istanbul. The market is the city’s second largest covered market behind the Grand Bazaar.
Döner kebab – a mixture of meat, usually veal and or beef with lamb and sometimes chicken
The only thing better than a freshly made döner kebab is one that you slice yourself!
Entering the Spice Bazaar
Merchants showcase their wares, including the ever-popular, Turkish Delight
Here you can find most all spices, from hot curry to sweet paprika
The markets in Istanbul seemed endless – this is departing the Spice Bazaar
The ship hosted another party, this time a “sail away” party that included wonderful wine
As well as delectable and authentic treats
After our trip to the bustling city of Istanbul, a little bit of unplugging was just what we needed. We easily accomplished this on the island of Lesbos, Greece. This Greek island in the northern part of the Aegean Sea is Greece’s third largest, with a bustling capital (Mytilene) and 200 miles of coast line). Some ports were too small for our monolithic cruise ship, and so we had to use the tender system. All large cruise ships are equipped with smaller boats that can transport passengers from the ship to land when arriving in smaller ports of call. Generally, you are assigned a group number (depending on how quickly you arrive to collect it) and then send ashore in that order. Surprisingly, we arrived fairly early and got to shore just in time to snatch up one of the few remaining tiki huts on the beach. After that, it was clear sailing – nothing but relaxing and sitting in the crystal clear water. Oh, and one more thing… skipping stones. The ocean was just full of perfect stone-skipping rocks. I could easily average six skips but got as high as fourteen skips – the crowing achievement of the day, only to be topped by making the final table at the Casino’s Blackjack Tournament later that night.
We rode in the tender to get to Lesbos
A view of our boat from the tranquil setting under our beach umbrella
Julia poses for a picture
Skipping rocks with Daddy
Julia wanted to try on her now – she almost got the hang of it
The water was so clear it was fun to just soak
Family toesies
The sun wore Julia out – she was asleep on the ride back
Two beers and a cigar – oh man, oh man! Relaxing on the ship as we sail away
I’m posing for a picture with my girl, little did I know what she was up to under my hat!
Blackjack tournament final table. Got knocked out doubling down on 10 against a dealer 6. It would have given me an unbeatable chip stack with three hands left. The winner had no idea what he was doing which put me on tilt
The casino would send up desserts and bottles of wine with their compliments. Perhaps I was too frequent of a visitor??
We still have plenty more adventure to come… please tune back in to the final section of our cruise in the next post.
