Category Archives: Milan

Family Stories, Friends, Humor, Markets, Milan, Travel - Italy

Mercatone dell’Antiquariato – Milan’s Outdoor Antique Market

June 2, 2014 Greg

Jennifer and I simply love outdoor markets. Jen holds on to the belief that she’s going to stumble across a vintage Louis Vuitton handbag or uncover that perfect piece for our future living room. I’ve got much lower (and more realistic expectations); I’m just thrilled that I get to eat “street food”. Nothing is better than a porchetta paninio (pork sandwich) from a food vendor with freshly fried zeppole (Italian donuts) for dessert. I love sandwiches, I love eating outside and I love feeding my entire family for less than €20!

Pack your bags, let's check out the market! — Pack your bags, let’s check out the market!

All of us at the Fiera — All of us at the Mercatone dell’Antiquariato

Jen has been trying to get to the Mercatone dell’Antiquariato del Naviglio Grande since we moved here nearly a year and a half ago. “What’s the big deal – why is it so hard to make it to a market”, you ask? Well, this particular market only takes place on the last Sunday of each month (except for July). For those of you that aren’t math wizards, that’s just eleven chances a year to make it to Milan for this 80-year-old Milanese tradition. Our first attempt was foiled – we set out one day in January of 2013, but got derailed when we couldn’t find parking. It was ambitious of me to try so soon after moving to Italy – had I known then what I know now, I would have just thrown my car on the curb like the hundreds of other locals. Instead, we stopped for lunch and found an amazing sandwich place, which I blogged about HERE. After lunch, we lost the motivation to go back and agreed, “we’ll try again as soon as we get the next opportunity”. Well, travel and other obligations delayed that opportunity fifteen more months.

Jen's sister Jessica along with Jen and Julia — Jen’s sister Jessica along with Jen and Julia

Another family photo along the Alzaia Naviglio Grande

We had been casually referring to the market as “Milan’s Antique Market”. Certainly, there is some truth in referring to the Mercatone dell’Antiquariato as an antique market, but perhaps flea market is a more apt description. The products sold range from old shoes to mid-century furniture. You can acquisition antique coffee makers or art by local artists. The best part about paying a visit to this unique bazaar is that you’ll never know what you need until you find it.

The stores also sell antiques - here is a classic espresso maker once used in a coffee bar — The stores also sell antiques – here is a classic espresso maker once used in a coffee bar

Roughly 380 vendors wind their way up Alzaia Naviglio Grande, placing their backs to the canal. This trendy neighborhood in Milan features many cafes and bars that call to the younger, artistic crowd. Jen and I had been hoping to get away from the centro (center) of Milan and visit this particular area for some time. Well, two birds… as they say. As lunch time approached, we picked a great pizzeria in a former factory – the space was as great as the food. If you find yourself in Milan near the last weekend of the month, be sure to carve out some time for the Mercatone dell’Antiquariato.

The neighborhood is full of artists and street art

INFORMATION

WHAT » Mercatone dell’Antiquariato del Naviglio Grande
WHEN » Last Sunday of every month (except July)
WHERE » Milan
ADDRESS »
Strada Alzaia Naviglio Grande, via Valenza, South
TRANSPORT »
Metro Porta Genova/bus 59, 74, 169
Tram 2, 3, 9, 14, 15, 29, 30

Food and Drink, Milan

New Years in Milan

January 16, 2014 Greg

I have celebrated the year changing exactly thirty-four times. That is a lot of ball drops, backward counting and champagne toasts. In the thirty-four times I have seen the calendar progress another year, I have experienced elaborate dinners, small family gatherings, massive ballroom parties and cozy nights in. I have had “the night of my life” and “the disappointment of a lifetime.” In all this time, I have learned that a valuable life lesson. When you place an unhealthy amount of expectations on any one thing (in this case, an evening), it is hard to meet or exceed the vision you’ve created in your own head.

Fireworks light up the sky behind Milan’s Duomo

Fortunately, disappointment was not the theme as we rang in 2014. The stakes were at an all-time high and the night came together as well as anyone could have hoped. A couple months ago we got an email from our friends Matt and Lindsey that they wanted to come to Italy and ring in the new year with us. Our plans for a low-key Italian New Years with the traditional zampone and lentils quickly changed as I scoured the dinner venues of Milan. After a lot of research, we came up with a plan that we thought was perfect. A prix-fixe meal at a lounge just steps from Milan’s Duomo in the main piazza (square). Jen read that there would be fireworks visible at midnight and so the plan sounded perfect.

A stage was set up in front of the Duomo for live performances throughout the night

Matt and Lindsey arrived the night before New Years and we enjoyed a low-key dinner that Jen prepared. Matt got to the train station in typical “Matt fashion”… three hours late, without any warning of his delay and a frantic look in his eyes. We were both glad I waited for the last train to pull into the station!

When I made our New Year’s dinner reservation, I was told that we should arrive at 8:30pm. I knew the Italians wouldn’t be arriving at that time, so I planned our arrival at 9:00pm. We were still about an hour early! So much for looking like a local! We started our evening with a little prosecco (Italian champagne) and moved through our four course meal accompanied by some great red wine and sparkling conversation. The atmosphere for a New Year’s dinner was perfect. The music and lights were set just right, as if to say, “this place is hip and you’ve still got it” as opposed to saying, “this place is entirely too formal – what are you doing here, you’re still sort of young!” Or even worse, “this is a club with twenty-somethings and you old fogies don’t fit in at all.” By the time all the Italians had arrived, it was evident we picked the right place for dinner. We were surrounded by some of Milan’s elite – fashion designers and models.

Matt and Lindsey

Greg and Jen

We’re ready to have some fun!

Our group at dinner

Out of nowhere, it was almost midnight. We surprised our server by telling him we wanted the bill, as opposed to staying for their champagne toast. We had bigger plans in place! We rushed to the Duomo, a five minute walk through a dense sea of people. We arrived with just a couple minutes left until midnight and I struggled to prepare everything. We had brought bottles of prosecco and Jen insisted on plastic champagne glasses. While thousands of other people were counting down and swigging from their bottles, I was fiddling with the bases for the plastic glasses. I had only finished two glasses when the countdown reached five, so I threw the remaining glasses on the ground in desperation. I’d be damned if “etiquette” was going to get in the way of us having our bubbly at midnight!

Jen and Lindsey in front of the Duomo

Me and Jen just after midnight

In keeping with tradition, Jen tried calling our family to wish them a “Happy New Year”

We had been excited to see the fireworks light up the night’s sky behind the Duomo all night. When we arrived in the piazza, we learned that the firework show Jen had read about was a different kind of event altogether. Please allow me to give a small background for our international readers. You see, Americans do fireworks right! I think it’s in our DNA, like baseball and childhood obesity. So when we read that there would be fireworks, we assumed it was going to be a major production – administered by professionals at a safe distance from the crowd. We have never been so wrong. All the fireworks being set were ignited by people from within the crowd. There were literally explosions at our feet, above our heads, behind our backs at regular minute-long intervals. It was not uncommon to see a huge gap in the crowd as dozens of people pushed and shoved their way away from a ready to explode M-80 or Excalibur Artillery Shell. It evoked a strange sensation of festive revelry with an ever-present sense of impending doom. The Outkast song “Bombs Over Baghdad” kept playing over and over in my mind.

Fireworks above the crowd

Jen and Lindsey show their sheer terror

Someone (ehehm… Jen) spilled prosecco all over Matt

We all agreed that the night would land in the “Epic New Year’s Eve” column as opposed the other column, “How Much Did I Spend For This Awful Disappointment?!” We stayed in the piazza until roughly 1:00am before heading home. We didn’t want to get back too late, we had to depart early the next day for the road trip of a lifetime. Matt and I were ringing in the new year by checking off a lifelong bucket list item… skiing the Swiss Alps!

Family Stories, Food and Drink, Holidays, Julia, Markets, Milan, Sipping Espresso, Travel - Italy

Christmas in Italy – Bring on the Festivals!

December 21, 2013 Greg

“It’s the most wonderful time of the year”… and that means so many things! It means snow flakes and Christmas lights. It means cold weather and hot chocolate. It means Santa Claus and stockings stuffed with goodies. When you live in Europe, it also means tremendous Christmas markets and delicious vin brulè (cooked wine, usually sold on the streets). Over the past couple weeks, we have been taking advantage of it all! Because Christmas is only four days away – I will spend the next four days posting about our Christmas fun. In order to do that, I have to bend my “unbreakable rule” and publish blog posts out of order. I’ll fast-forward to Christmas and then flash back to some exciting posts that I have in the pipeline.

Oh bej! Oh bej!

No, you don’t have to say “gesundheit”! I didn’t sneeze. That is the name of a festival held each year in Milan, spanning from December 7th through the following Sunday. How did it get that wonderful name, you ask? “Oh bej! Oh bej!” means, “oh so nice! Oh so nice!” in the Milanese dialect. It is by far, the most important Christmas festival held in Milan. December 7th is the day of the Patron Saint of Milano, Santo Ambrogio. The festival is said to date back all the way to 1510.

Vendors line the streets during Oh Bej! Oh Bej!

We arrived in Milan early and parked far outside of the central zone. You would think that living just outside of Milan for nearly a year would make me an expert driving in the city. It’s quite the opposite, in fact. I’m even more gun-shy now than I was when I first moved here. Driving through limited zones and parking in residential areas has cost me hundreds of euros in fines. So this time, I didn’t chance it – we parked in a garage outside the central zone and hoofed it just over a mile. The brisk winter weather was cold on our faces, but the fresh air and excitement of the day filled us with an energetic warmth.

Our first stop was the Basilica of Sant’Ambrogio, the basilica commissioned by and named after Milan’s Patron Saint. Construction of the basilica began in 379, making it among the oldest and most significant churches in Milan. Since we were in the city on the actual day of Sant’Ambrogio, there was a large service being held in the basilica.

Basilica Sant’Ambrogio named for Milan’s Patron Saint, Santo Ambrogio

There was a large church service being held, even though it was a Saturday

Next, it was time for us to see the festival and enjoy some of my favorite things – vendor food and vin brulè! In the center of the city stands the Sforza Castle, a medieval fortification built in the 15th century. Here in the 21st century, the fortification plays host to hundreds of vendors that encircle the great castle walls. Over 400 vendors vie for the attention of shoppers looking for food, crafts, Christmas ornaments, books and so much more. We got a couple wonderful pannini (sandwiches) and jockeyed for a spot to enjoy them. After lunch and some shopping, we walked through the gates of the castle and explored the courtyard.

Over 400 vendors flanked the ancient castle walls

The best roasted chestnuts come from the back of trucks

There were literally dozens of stands with delicious Sicilian treats

A stand full of artisanal goods

I picked us up a couple sandwiches – porchetta and salamelle

Salamelle panino

After her first bite, Julia decided she didn’t want to share – I couldn’t blame her

A fountain sprays in front of Sforza Castle

We went inside to explore the courtyard

Jen holds Julia tight in a crowd full of people

When we had our fill of the market, we strolled down Via dei Mercanti toward the Duomo. No trip to Milan would be complete without seeing one of the most amazing architectural examples of our age. The Duomo is particularly special during Christmas time. Ablaze with sparkling lights and framed behind a giant Christmas tree, you can’t help but become filled with Christmas spirit.

Duomo di Milano

The festival just whet our appetites for all the Christmas fun that we would enjoy. I hope that I’ve been able to do the same for you. We still have so much left to explore together, including the Christmas markets of Switzerland and a tour of some of Italy’s “best towns for Christmas.” Plus, I got an early present… I hope that you’ll help me unwrap it. I’ll give you a hint – it’s got four wheels, two doors and 572 horsepower! Grab a warm cup of vin brulè and get comfy (oh yeah, we’ll give you a recipe for that too) – we’ve still got a lot of exploring Christmas time in Europe left to do.

Food, Humor, Julia, Milan

The World’s Greatest Sandwich

January 30, 2013 Greg

I had originally come up with an inventive and funny way to start this post. I was going to draw a parallel between myself and Joey Tribbiani from “Friends”, as we both share an intense love of sandwiches. I scoured the internet for a clip I can so vividly remember, but could not find it. When quizzed about his favorite food (which many people assume is pizza), we learn that his favorite food is in fact, sandwiches!

For those of you that weren’t fans of the show, “Friends” (all 3 of you) – Joey Tribbiani is a fun-loving, womanizing, “foodie” who craves [among other things] sandwiches. Perhaps this love of meat and cheese folded between two pieces of bread comes from his Italian heritage, because as I’m learning – Italians have perfected the art of the sandwich (hereafter referred to as panino or the plural – panini).

On Sunday, Jen and I decided to go to Milano – a forty-five minute drive from our hometown in Como.

Julia playing with pigeons in front of the Duomo in Milano

Jen had heard about a wonderful flea market that is only open the last Sunday of every month. We bundled up with lots of layers and departed at the wee-early hour of 11:00am (and that was rushing to get out the door). On the way, we consulted the internet to tell us what else to do for the day and found out about a wonderful restaurant with over 100 types of panini. We cross-referenced Trip Advisor and read some wonderful reviews of the food. In my mind, it was a lock we were headed to Bar della Crocetta for lunch! By the time we finally got to the flea market (after a few wrong turns), it was already time for lunch – so instead, we re-routed the GPS to Bar della Crocetta.

Bar della Crocetta

Unassuming façade matches the charming interior perfectly

When we walked in, we were greeted by several friendly, buon giornos and found a nice cozy spot in the corner. After reviewing the menus for several minutes (in both Italian and poorly translated English), we gave up and asked our friendly server to help us pick two sandwiches and something for Julia. Her selections were wonderful. And since Julia didn’t want to wait for her panino, they gave us a plate and told us to help ourselves to the bar full of food.

Delectable treats to hold us over

Our excitement grew as we watched delicious panino after panino come from the kitchen. We were not disappointed!

They tasted as good as they looked!

AMILACARE – golfetta (salami), brie, scamorza cheese, lettuce, tomato, etc.

BIG – prosciutto crudo, fontina cheese, shrimp, lettuce, tomato, etc.

Julia’s Ham and Cheese – prosciutto cotto, fontina cheese

We couldn’t be happier. Julia jumped right in and preferred to take big bites on her own as opposed to the small pieces her mom cut for her.

Big bites from a little girl

“Boy is that goooood”

When we were winding down, Julia was just getting started! She decided she didn’t want any more of the prosciutto cotto (cooked prosciutto, basically ham) and wanted her favorite… salami! If I can ever get the video to load properly… we have a funny video of her demanding salami after her first discovery of it’s deliciousness!

We could hear the staff laughing and repeating her cute request of salami – or as she says it… “lami” (here’s a video of her requesting it). The trouble was, we had already finished our sandwiches. What we didn’t know was that they weren’t just discussing her unique accent – they were actually putting together a plate of her own salami.