So, I’m back here on Sipping Espresso… blogging. Weird. I’m in America. I’m blogging aboutItalyfromAmerica. Can I do that?! Is that even allowed?! Well, I promised you in my Final Blog Post From Italy that I would finish our tale of overseas adventure and intrigue (OK, OK – more like overseas adventure of gluttony and transparency), so I suppose that I’ll have to make good on my word. For those of you that are sick of hearing about these adventures… I’m sorry, but I’m OCD and I am not much good at leaving things unfinished.
“Well, get going already Dad and tell us this story”!
So, let’s flash back; way, way back to this past spring when Jen’s sister came to visit. Just as they departed for Venice and Rome, we took our own leave from Como and headed toward the metropolitan city of Trieste. When I think about what brought us to Trieste, I finally understand the word bittersweet. We undertook the four-hour road trip to Italy’s easternmost city so that I could run in the Maratonina d’Europa (Europe’s Half Marathon). Despite having to add the somewhat embarrassing “ina” suffix to the end of Maratona (changing the meaning to “very little”), completing my first half-marathon was a very “sweet” accomplishment for me. However, the impetus behind the race was a very “bitter” one. Jen and I had started listing all the things that we wanted to do before our time in Italy came to an end. This particular road trip checked many of our boxes; competing in a race in Europe, a visit to the city of Trieste, time in the region of Friuli–Venezia Giulia, capped off with a visit to Slovenia (upcoming post). Now, that checked a lot of boxes, so careful planning began and hotels rooms were booked.
Julia and I stand in front of the glasses they had set up for the race
Here’s how I would sum up Trieste – it is a MUST-SEE city. Sometimes I find myself guilty of trying to label a city by comparing it to another city. “Rome is like New York, but much older and without the high-rises”. Sometimes, you’ve just got to stop and appreciate where you are for what it is. Don’t try to “label” the place or put it in a box; its easy to fall into that trap with Trieste. A city that has bounced back and forth between Slovenian, Austrian and Italian rule leaves us with a place today that is proud of its blend in architecture and attitude. Trieste is a city not at all confused about its confusing identity. With a rich mix of Slavic, Germanic and Latin influences – I am simply content to label this magical place as one of the most “European” cities I have ever visited.
We’re finally here in Trieste!Fountain that accurately describes Trieste’s ties to the seaAlong Corso Cavour, the main street adjacent to the cities famous piazza
My race was on a Sunday and so we arrived Saturday with a planned departure on Monday. After we checked into the hotel, we strolled down to the Piazza Unità d’Italiato register for my race. I had often heard this piazza referred to as “the most beautiful piazza in Italy” and what I saw did not disappoint. The grand square is the largest of any on the water in all of Europe. On this particular spring weekend the piazza was also the location of my finish line.
We walked down with a friend I made in the hotel – he was also running in the raceJen hangs out with Julia in the squareThe Piazza Unita d’Italia at nightJulia hugs Jen while we were walking around
We didn’t have much to worry about the night before the race, so we strolled through the piazza and walked the roads along the water. They had all sorts of fair-type events set up for the race, including tents serving beer, desserts and carnival rides. I took Julia on the Ferris Wheel and got a great view of the city and the harbor. After the fun, we took in a spectacular seafood dinner near the harbor (mm’mmm I’m making myself hungry for fresh Italian food. Never had that problem while writing until now, when I can’t get it quite as easily).
I get ready to take her on her first ferris wheelAway we go…Daddy/Julia selfieView from our car at the top of the ferris wheelThe sun set shortly after our ridePicture with momPicture with dadThe sunsets in Trieste were like nothing I’ve ever seenThe light play from the sky was this stunning both nights we were thereWe had to try some delicious frittelle with Nutella“Honey… you’ve got a little Nutella, riiiiight there”Walking through the piazza with daddyJulia loved playing with the glassesSelfie at dusk
On race day, I was up and at ’em early – ready to beat my goal time (which I didn’t do). Of course, I forgot that I was in Italy and so the start of the race was a little later than I originally planned. I kept warm by jogging around the parking lot and taking in the crowds. I was tickled when I ran past the snack tents used for refueling depleted calories (usually covered by bananas and power bars) and found brioche and other Italian pastries. When I finished, I could not have been more pleased to be greeted by Jen and Julia; and to have Julia wear my medal.
Julia got up early to see me offThere wasn’t much happening at the start line until after the race was supposed to beginAnd we’re off!I had the sea to my right for almost the entire half-marathonI felt (and looked) like death, but I crossed the finish lineBut I got my medal…Which I was happy to give to JuliaMy little peanut was proud of me… that was the best part of allJulia may have been more interested in the biscotti than the medalFamily picturePicture along the Canale Grande (Grand Canal) that runs through the city streets
After the race, we stopped for a quick snack and beer (hey, I earned it) before going back to the hotel to change. Then, it was time to tour the city! Even though my marathon race was just a maratonina, I’m sure that we walked the remaining 13.1 miles as we wound through Trieste’s ancient streets. This was especially challenging, since the first part of the tour required me to carry Julia and her stroller up the Scala Giganti (Giant Steps). We capped it all off back in the Piazza Unità d’Italia for happy hour before a wonderful dinner.
We stopped for a beer and light snack along the canalJulia rode a merry-go-roundThe touring began with the Scala dei Giganti (Giant Steps) – this is only about 25% of themAfter a long uphill climb, we got this panoramic of the cityWe arrived at the Castello di San GiustoStatue in front of the castle depicts maritime soldiers at warIn front of the castle were ancient Roman ruinsYoung soccer players compete where ancient Roman soldiers stood a thousand years beforeI can never catch Jen for a candid!Here I am in front of the Castello di San GiustoNearby is the Cattedrale di San Giusto – see if you can find the two cannon balls that have been lodged in the stone during a siege from the sea centuries beforeLovebirdsWonderful ancient streets – this is Viale XX SettembreHalf-Marathon or not… this kid had to get up and down these stairs somehowChiesa di San SilvestroTeatro Romano di Trieste – ancient Roman theatreWe stopped back in the piazza for happy hourMy happy hour Instagram shotJulia and I took a stroll around the piazzaChiesa di Sant’Antonio Nuovo at the end of the Canale Grande – well-lit at nightMy girls at night
If you ever find yourself in northeast Italy (I’m talking to YOU, when you plan that inevitable visit Venice) – do yourself a favor and carve out a couple of days to see Trieste. You’ll be glad you did!
Could that title be any more depressing? I almost cried just typing it. What happened?! Our “year-long sabbatical” in Italy came and went in a flash. But that shouldn’t matter… we extended our overseas adventure another six months. Wasn’t that just a few weeks ago?! How is it that our return airline tickets have today’s date on it? We still haven’t seen the trulli huts in Puglia. We never got the chance to visit Jen’s nonno’s town in Calabria. I never proved my “Italianness” by grilling a branzino on our BBQ. Heck, we never ate at that joint down the road that I’ve always wanted try!
“Get outta here pal, before you try to grill me”!
Truthfully, I have been aware of the impending move back to America and it turns out… I am a guy capable of emotions. Expressing them is something else altogether; but perhaps I’ll try. Here it is – I am excited to move home. I am eager to spend time with my friends and family. I am anxious to begin working again (and especially eager to earn a paycheck). I am pleased at the thought of a bit of “normal”. At the same time I am also exceptionally sad to leave. I am sorry to abandon our friends and family here in Italy. I am mournful at the thought of missing the food and wine. I become melancholy when I think about the mountains and the lakes I won’t see daily. Perhaps most of all, I am heartbroken that I won’t spend every day/all day with Jennifer and Julia and that I’ll never have the same uninterrupted bonding experience with my second daughter (who will be arriving this September). I’m more mixed up inside than a perfectly stirred risotto.
Before I continue with this post, I feel that it’s important to comment on the status of the blog. Sipping Espresso will continue publishing posts about travel, food, and of course, a little more nonsense (at least for a period of time). In an ideal world, I would have published a post every couple of days and been completely caught-up, allowing for this to be the final post. Of course, I’m nowhere near finished blogging about our recent adventures. I have a good twenty posts in the pipeline and I won’t let myself or my three loyal readers down by cutting our stories short. Sadly, this will be my last post written from the comfort of my “Italian blogging chair”.
I think that the only appropriate content for this final Italian post is to remark on the top ten things that I’ll miss most about Italy. So without further adieu…
10) “I’m in the mood for a brioche”
We have a pasticceria (pastry shop) right next door. Literally, right next door. Many of our guests have enjoyed waking up to a breakfast table full of brioche (the Italian version of croissant). It’s a major convenience to be able to enjoy fresh-baked goods by merely walking a couple dozen meters…wait, feet. Gotta remember, I’m moving back to the US. Jen actually sent me over this morning for a few of the delectable treats. I will miss being sent on these little errands by my wife so that we may enjoy freshly baked goods for breakfast.
9) Ding dong does the bell
Like most people, I’m not particularly fond of being woken up prematurely. But man, do I love hearing church bells any time of day. Here in Italy, the oversized chimes are in no short supply. I would venture to guess that we have more Catholic churches than the US has Starbucks… each town has one or more churches. The spires and bell towers can be seen (and heard) from far away. I have a feeling the sound of church bells will forever be a sound that will whisk me back to my time here in Italy. I will miss lying in bed and hearing the church bells early in the morning.
Main church with two bell towers in Agordo, Belluno
8) Little shops and friendly merchants
When I lived in the Maryland suburbs, I shopped at the big box stores. I selected my electronics from Best Buy, picked up my groceries from Whole Foods and chose my clothes in the mall. When I lived in DC, I still found myself driving into Maryland to do my shopping because it was easier. In Italy, “supporting your local merchants” isn’t a thing – it’s just what you do. If you want a good piece of meat, you visit Marco, our butcher. When Jen sends me to pick up flowers, I see Chiara and let her suggest the correct bouquet for me. I know the baristas in the coffee bars and the panettiere (bakers) in the bread shops. I will miss knowing my merchants, where my products came from and the conversations we have while exchange goods for money.
Inside our local butcher shop, just down the street
7) “I could run 5,000 miles and I could run 5,000 more…”
I have been running off and on since high school. Unfortunately, I’ve never stayed with it beyond the spring/summer season. But for the entire eighteen months I’ve lived in Italy – I have been running. I started jogging a one mile lap around our neighborhood, discovered my favorite 5k loop and eventually started building toward regular 10+ mile runs. I ran in the cold, in the rain, in the snow and also in the best conditions imaginable. What kept me going all this time? I think it was the feeling I got to be outside, surrounded by nature. On any given day, I would jog past scenery that included villas and castles, lakes and vineyards, animals and tractors and so much more. Since running once again became a part of my life, I would continue logging miles on our road trips, which meant I could explore the trails and scenery from Tuscany to Scotland. I will miss the feeling I got as air filled my lungs and my feet pounded the pavement, consumed by some of the most beautiful scenery Europe has to offer.
Along one of my favorite running routes
6) A passion for local products
Short of buying New England Clam Chowder or Virginia Ham, most products that you buy in the US seem come from an unknown place. It is almost as if they materialize in your local Walmart from a faceless factory somewhere far away… whether that means food produced “somewhere” in the midwest or clothes produced in another country altogether. Here in Italy, if you’re buying food – you not only know that it is locally raised and produced, you’ll most likely know the specific town of its origin. You can choose to consume prosciutto from either Parma or from San Daniele, depending on your preference. If you want a new suit, you can opt to get something pre-made in Milan with silks from Como or perhaps you want to get a custom suit hand-made in Naples. I will miss knowing where almost all of my products come from and being able to select which I want based on that information.
5) Salami and prosciutto that cannot be replicated or replaced
You can’t talk about buying local products without expanding on the food itself. My jaw nearly hit the floor the first time I saw the cured meat section of our grocery store. Legs of prosciutto that stretched for miles. A section of the store reserved just for its cured meats (salami, prosciutto, lardo, capicola, bresaola, mortadella, etc.) that was twice as large as most butcheries in an American grocery store! And the butchery itself is equally as impressive here. A massive section of the grocery store reserved for high quality products, from veal to rabbit. The food in Italy is fresh, delicious and life-changing. I’m not exaggerating… I know that my palate has forever been altered. I don’t quite think I’ll reach the level of critique a real Italian can dish out when eating a meal, but I will certainly miss the food (specifically the cured meats) here in Italy.
4) “Barolo, Amarone and Brunello…oh my”!
I knew that wine was a large part of the culture before moving here, but I didn’t quite understand its significance to the Italian experience. Like most things here that are rooted in tradition, winemaking and wine drinking hasn’t changed much in the past few centuries. The perfection that took hundreds of years to develop now yields a harvest that includes access to delicious and affordable wines. After our first few months here, we had to make the conscious decision to slow down our wine consumption – the internal pressure to try all the Italian wine possible in less than two years would have put me in an early grave. I will miss the open access to such wonderful wine… and I will certainly miss paying less than €10 for a great bottle.
Vineyards in Emilia-Romagna
3) “Let’s go to… hmm… Tuscany today”!
A few weeks ago, we were on a road trip when I saw the exit for Venice. We were driving east, toward Trieste and I knew we would be passing nearby Venice – but I hadn’t consulted a map prior to our drive, so I was surprised when I saw signs that told me I was only about 20 km from Venice. The significance struck me that without even trying, we can stop by many of the world’s most important cities (Venice, Rome, Florence, Milan). Within a three-hour drive, we can visit the rolling hills of Tuscany, the ample vineyards of Piedmont, or the pristine beaches of the Italian Riviera. Inside of a four-hour radius, we can find ourselves in France, Switzerland, Austria or Slovenia. We could literally dine on escargot in Chamonix, France for breakfast, have fondue in Geneva, Switzerland for lunch and eat sausage in Innsbruck, Austria for dinner (if we were crazy enough to do that drive… or eat snails for breakfast, for that matter). I will miss easy access to the best that Italy has to offer and a gateway to much of the rest of Europe.
Of all Italy’s exits to explore, the one on the right seems the most appealing
2) They grow up so fast!
Before you have kids, everyone tells you, “you’ll only know this specific type of joy when you have your own” (of course, they don’t tell you about the late nights and the “time-outs”). When you do have kids of your own – you finally understand what they mean. When your kids are young, everyone tells you “you won’t believe how fast they grow up”. They’re right about that one too. I blinked and suddenly we were celebrating Julia’s third birthday. I’m afraid to blink again, because then we’ll be packing her up for college. One thing that I will forever be thankful for is that I got to spend a full year and a half with my little Julia (and her mother, for that matter). I didn’t have to go to work for 8-10 hours a day, or miss her while I was on road trips. I spent every single day, watching her develop. I got to witness her form her words, first in English and then in Italian. I got to see her become more adept at using an iPad than her parents. I got to be her “horsey” and her “best friend”. I got to hold her when she was sad and toss her in the air when she was happy. I will always miss the uninterrupted time that I got to spend with my daughter, Julia.
Julia sips her espresso when we first arrive and then again a year later
1) I will miss sipping the espresso with you!
That says it all. I will miss living our adventures and I will miss sharing them with you. I am thankful that we had any readers at all and I am glad that we got to share a part of our lives with you. I made friends and contacts through the blog and I will be forever grateful that I had a place to go and “chat” with people from all over the globe! Thank you, thank you, thank you!
It’s been nearly a month and a half since my last meaningful post and I am once again faced with the monumental task of getting caught back up. I’m not sure how or why I allowed myself to get so far behind, but I do know that I have left myself a lot of work. The wine, cheese and salami will just have to wait (well, I suppose it can’t hurt to have a little wine while I write). I would like to apologize to my readers for this delay and I would like to acknowledge one loyal reader in particular; Helen actually reached out to me through our Contact Us page and basically said, “what the hell, Greg – where’ve you been?!” Helen and everyone – even though it can’t excuse the lack of content, we just got back from a two-week trip to the States where, in my capacity as Best Man, I roasted my good buddy Josh and toasted his beautiful bride, Abby (read about Josh and Abby’s trip to visit us here and here).
While we were home, I rediscovered some magical things – burritos, quality customer service and Netflix. We haven’t watched as much TV over the past year as we did over the past two weeks. I became obsessed with the Netflix original series, House of Cards – an amazing drama starring, Kevin Spacey as Frank Underwood, a cagey and politically ambitious congressman who is constantly scheming and conniving to reach the next rung of the political ladder. If Frank Underwood can work through all hours of the night and stay ten moves ahead of his opposition, surely I can bang out a few extra blog posts in the next couple weeks.
You and me both, Frank
We still have tons of travel left to do together – I’ve only written about the very first part of our cruise late last year and so much has happened since. So put on your boating shoes and let’s get going…
Here we go again!
When I last left you, we had already visited Rome (here and here) before hitting the Mediterranean Sea for Florence. We spent the next day at sea (which means there is no port and therefore no disembarking the ship), which can often be my favorite time onboard a cruise ship. We tend to pick our cruises based on the ports of call, but I always like to be sure there are two or three sea days allotted in the itinerary. It may sound crazy – but it’s nice to have a day to relax in the middle of it all. Carrying a toddler, stroller, backpack (and sometimes even a wife) across miles and miles of city streets, on and off tour buses and in and out of museums [while rewarding] is a lot of work. To have a day where you cannot do anything other than enjoy your ship’s amenities is a pretty sweet prospect. That, and I like to gamble – sea day’s are the only time you can sit in the casino all day (or as long as your wife can tolerate being left alone with your child).
A dormant volcano visible from the ship while we sailed past SicilyApparently, gambling is a part of our blood line – Julia enjoys the Casino as much as I doFirst she hit the slotsNext, she discovered the blackjack tables – that is definitely my little girl
The first sea day was also the first “formal night” and so we all three enjoyed an opportunity to get dressed up and go to dinner. I was up a little after a hard day playing blackjack and so I was in high spirits. The delicious prime rib they served helped to keep me and my tummy happy (they even brought it out “bloody and still mooing with a mountain of horseradish”, just like I asked) . After dinner, we took in a very enjoyable show and went to bed content with a day of doing… well, not much of anything.
Ready for a fun “night on the town”Julia let me take her for a spin on the dance floor before dinnerJulia and Jen at dinner
The next day we woke up at port in Corfu, Greece. It was drizzling and we had a long day at port in a relatively small city, so we decided we would try to wait out the rain on the ship. We spent the morning participating in some of the cheesy activities organized by the ship’s Cruise Director (imagine a business team building activity). It would have been an uneventful morning if it had not been for a strengthening bond between two little girls who would quickly be known as the fastest of friends onboard Celebrity’s Silhouette. Ava had met Julia in one of the cafe’s the day before and she didn’t hesitate to chat her up on either occasion. She was likely craving companionship of someone close to her own age (Ava is about a year older). The two instantly clicked and after the game, they spent some time dancing, playing and “conversing” (if you can consider each girl stating her independent and random observations a conversation).
We meandered about the ship while we waited for the clouds to disperseAva found a new friend in Julia and Julia discovered her new hero
As the girls played, we spent some time getting to know Ava’s parents, Catherine and Jim without realizing that we were making fast friends of our own. After just a few minutes talking with Cat and Jim, we learned that they have a close-knit family too – they were cruising with Jim’s brother, “Uncle” Mike and his wife, Feng as well as the boy’s parents – Bob and Dorothy. The entire family was very pleasant and even though we didn’t realize it at the time, we were forming a relationship with a big family we would “adopt” as our own for the remainder of the cruise. Eventually, the rain let up and we took our leave for Corfu.
A panoramic of Corfu, Greece
Corfu is a Greek Island dating back to 1300 BC when it was first inhabited by the Phaeacians. The history of the island is a story penned by bloody battles and conquests. This is evidenced by the two fortresses that enclose the capital city; two formidable structures standing as pillars of protection against would-be invaders from the sea . Jen and I decided that we were up for a walk and so we strolled from the ship, past the “New” Fortress (Νέο Φρούριο) and into the downtown area. We meandered past ancient churches and charming shops and restaurants when heard a tiny, little voice scream, “Juila”! It was her new friend Ava, who came barreling up and generously gave Julia a big hug and a piece of her bread. We kept hiking past the outskirts of town and into the Old Fortress (Παλαιό Φρούριο) – a citadel that offers the most magnificent panoramic of the ancient city, justifiably deemed a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Strolling through the city streets and taking in the shopsThe city streets of ancient Corfu are full of charmWe walked past beautiful churchesWe came across Ava eating lunch with her familyOld Fortress (Παλαιό Φρούριο)The Old Fortress and church that was built on the grounds for the soldiersCrossing the drawbridge toward the Old FortressThe church and Old Fortress high atop the rocksJen and Julia stroll across a desolate stretch on their way toward the churchA view of the sea from the fortress wallsJen and Julia take in the viewFrom the top of the cliff, we had a great view of the city and our shipJulia sits along a fortress wall with Corfu in the backgroundShe gives me a big hugJen wanted to get in on that action
After a pleasant and rewarding day, we concluded our self-guided tour when we missed the last bus back to the ship, thereby closing the loop on our long walk by hustling back to the ship on foot. We were just moments away from getting back on a course of exploration throughout eastern Europe, just as I am back on track blogging. For any other HOC (House of Cards) fans out there, imagine me concluding this post with two quick raps of my class ring on the desk. Frank Underwood would be proud!
I present, for your viewing pleasure… the BRAND NEW,
SIPPING ESPRESSO!
Please fill in your email address in the “subscribe” field on the left, especially if you were a previous subscriber (all subscriptions were terminated in the move). Also, PLEASE, PLEASE click on the CONTACT US page if you care to give feedback. I would like your suggestions on continued improvement, notes on errors I’ve made or just any general feedback (you can also leave a comment on this post itself… but please be nicer in that location, they are visible to the public). I’m sure that I’ve made some mistakes (many late night hours are at work here) and I’d love for you to help me catch them.
In the meantime, thanks for your continued support and ENJOY your test drive on our new site! For those craving new content and not just a “filler” piece, you’ll be happy to know I’ve added more favorite photos to the PHOTOGRAPHY page.
You can have your two front teeth – I’ll take the Lamborghini!
Oh yeah, that’s the one I want!
Periodically, my father-in-law will send me Italian Groupon deals that he thinks we may be interested in acquiring. Through this site, we have found good deals on restaurants and hotels. Just like Groupon or Living Social at home – some of the deals are interesting, others are not. Some are phenomenal values – others are just cleverly packaged marketing schemes. Recently, he sent me one item that had the hairs on the back of my neck standing tall. The opportunity to take a Ferrari and/or Lamborghini out on a race track and really “open’er up!”
I wouldn’t call myself a true “car enthusiast” – but I am definitely a guy who loves his vehicles. I’ve had the pleasure of owning a few very fast cars and I have relished driving them. My favorite toy (Harley Davidson VRSC Nightrod Special) is sitting under cover at my parent’s house back at home. I love fine automobiles and have a propensity toward German vehicles. However, when it comes to the worlds best super-cars… nothing can rival an Italian made vehicle. Ferrari, Lamborghini and Maserati are the “dream cars” for every little boy (both here in Italy and around the world). So it was no wonder that the little boy that still lives inside me was doing cartwheels over this particular Groupon deal. Jen agreed that this was as good a gift as any – an early Christmas present for the bigger of her two kids.
Julia stands with me before I get all set to drive the Lamborghini
Jen and Julia in front of the racetrack
So on a recent cold December morning, we set our GPS toward the small town of Chignolo Po – home to the Circuito Internazionale Le Colline. I had elected to purchase a package of 6 laps. I chose this particular racetrack because of its substantial length and perilous turns. I also chose the option to divide my 6 laps between two different Ferrari’s and a Lamborghini that this race track held in it’s fleet. Having raced my own cars on a track before – I was beyond the limit of human excitement to do it all over again in some of the world’s most exclusive and powerful vehicles.
If you have been reading about our road trips over this past year, you’ll know that we are almost always late getting out the door. Not this time! I had a 10:30 start time and nothing was going to make me late. Except traffic. A heavy, inordinate amount of traffic. The traffic devoured the extra hour I had budgeted for myself. Then we arrived in the wrong city – the address on the website was wrong and we had driven roughly 30 minutes out of the way. After almost 2.5 hours in the car, we finally crossed the gates of Le Colline and I rushed up before my spot was lost. It did take some convincing on my part for them to let me race (they had already moved on to the next grouping of participants). Fortunately for me, my skills in Italian arguing and hand gestures have come a long way over the past year.
I was beyond giddy as I crossed under this banner
The young lady organizing the races asked me if I wanted to drive a Ferrari or a Lamborghini. I told her that I wanted to drive both, but she told me I could only choose one. I thought the miscommunication was due to my tardiness and so I opted for the Lamborghini. Six laps in that monster would suit me just fine. But then she told me that the first two laps would be in a Porsche Cayenne. I protested, but quickly relented as she gave me a gesture like, “I did you a favor to squeeze you in.” So I walked over to the Porsche SUV. Then I realized I wouldn’t be alone. And I wouldn’t be driving! I was shown into the back seat, alongside two other participants. One of the track employees was behind the wheel. Jen later told me that my face was so obviously full of disappointment and frustration that she thought I might hurt someone or myself.
We set out in the Cayenne – there I am in the backseat!
That’s us “burning” up the racetrack… I’m still in the backseat
I remained optimistic that the two laps in the back seat were just a tutorial – an opportunity to learn the turns and nuances of the track. I sat in the backseat, bored and un-entertained while the other passengers proclaimed their excitement about being on a racetrack alongside Ferraris and a Lamborghini. Meanwhile, I just wanted to drive them! When we pulled back to the start, it became obvious that the first two of six laps had just expired in the back of a not-so-special SUV. OK, well… I still had four laps left and the confidence that I could convince the lady to divide them among both a Ferrari and a Lamborghini.
By the time we pulled back to the start it was obvious I had just burned two of my six laps
Almost immediately after I got back as a passenger, my name was called to be a driver. I marched toward the Lamborghini and eagerly got behind the wheel. After a brief explanation in a mixture of Italian and English – I put the pedal to the floor and took off. I quickly got a feel for the track and even passed one of the Ferraris. My instructor gave me an extra boost of confidence in my driving ability with many, “bravos” and “perfectos.”
I’m about to drive a dream car…
Here I go…
And there I GO!
If my face before these two laps was full of frustration and disappointment, I’m sure that my face after those two laps was the polar opposite – I couldn’t hide the smile that stretched from ear to ear. That is, until I asked about the car for my final two laps. The young lady explained that I didn’t get any more laps. My companion (Jen) could opt to take the final two laps in the Porsche SUV as I had done previously, or I could opt to take that same ride again. I couldn’t believe it. We did not give up without a fight and made her pull out the paperwork to show us the fine print. Sure enough, it was there. Six laps somehow watered down to two laps. Three super cars had somehow boiled down to one. To add insult to injury, she presented me with a “diploma” before I had the chance to storm away.
Getting out of the car, you couldn’t wipe the smile off my face
Julia gives her favorite GT driver a big hug
I “proudly” display my diploma
Here it is… my diploma!
I wasn’t the only one that got to race fast cars
In cases like this – there’s nothing more you can do than laugh. So that’s exactly what we did. Plus, I was still happy that I actually got to race a Lamborghini – something that I had always dreamed of doing. So what if it was took four hours in the car to race for roughly 6 minutes?! I had 6 minutes of fun and exhilaration and we got a funny story. One thing is for sure – I’ll be certain to read the fine print of any future Groupon deals.
Most people visit Europe in the spring or summer. Of course, these are great times of year to see such a magical and historical place. But may I suggest to you a unique alternative?
Come in December, when the weather is at it’s coldest and the people are their warmest. When the cobblestone streets are strung with lights and the ancient buildings are trimmed with garland. Imagine your most magical place for the holidays – a winter wonderland, if you will. You will be sure to find something that fits your image here in Europe. There are amazing markets and festivals across the continent. Some countries boast cities that are particularly renowned for their holiday cheer. Finland, Germany and Austria are at the top of the list. Denmark and Switzerland are there as well. And of course, our personal favorite place to be for Christmas is right here in Italy. Before you plan your next Christmas vacation, add Europe into the running.
“Boy, Clark – I think we should go to Europe next year”
We had been toying with the idea of visiting another country to experience some of the large and festive Christmas markets (two of the top cities in the running were Cologne, Germany and Lapland, Finland). As we did more and more research, we kept noticing many towns in Italy topping the lists. We decided to stay close to home and shop in a language we know (well, sort of). Jen came across this article describing some of the best Christmas towns in the Trentino Alto-Adige region of Italy. One look at the photos of each town and I was sold. Beyond that, I was eager to explore this region of Italy for it’s unique wines and always breathtaking Dolomiti mountains. So I went to work on google maps and figured out that we could comfortably see five cities (with a bonus sixth on the return) over a period of three days. We would visit Vipiteno, Bressanone, Brunico, Bolzano and Merano with another full day reserved for the region’s capital city, Trento.
When I plotted our course, I literally sketched a rough map on a piece of scratch paper and realized that four of the five towns made a diamond shape. The fifth was sort of floating off to the right side, but for creative purposes – we’ll just stick to the “Five Diamond Christmas Tour”. It has a better ring than “Four Points & That Other One Tour”.
“Sounds great, dad – lets GO!”
We carefully chose our hotel, located just outside of Bolzano. What I didn’t pay much attention to was the name of the actual town, Soprabolzano (literally meaning, above Bolzano). ABOVE Bolzano it was. Our hotel sat roughly 4,100 ft above the town, which gave us two options. Drive up the winding and perilous mountain road or take the 15,000 ft cable car (gondola) ride. I opted to drive, even when the snow fell and the tailgaters lined up behind me.
The view from the road leading to our hotel
We were surprised to learn from Franco and Claudia (Jen’s aunt and uncle) that the area of Italy we were visiting was more Austrian than Italian. They couldn’t have been more correct. We definitely felt as though we were in Austria (which feels just like you’re in Germany). The houses are constructed with charming German architecture (picture gingerbread houses). The food served in the restaurants is German (picture sausages and sauerkraut). The people even spoke German instead of Italian! It was strange to experience, because we were in Italy – but it was also nice because it felt like a more unique “vacation” away from our normal lives. Funny, we were nervous to order pasta for the first time in Italy because we felt like it would be ordering pasta in Germany (something you would never do).
VIPITENO (Sterzing – German)
On the first day of our “Christmas Tour” we drove from our home directly to the northernmost town, Vipiteno. We arrived after lunch and took our time strolling through the market and the charming streets. We were eager to see the setting sun because we knew that meant the Christmas lights would soon be ablaze. We stopped for a vin brulé to warm up and sit for a bit. As opposed to going inside the restaurant, we instead opted to sit outside under the blankets they provided for their guests. It was cozy, fun and comforting. Eventually, we had to tear ourselves away from Vipiteno because we had one more stop on the schedule.
Julia is excited as we enter the market
Jen and Julia hugging
One of the stands, selling a variety of Christmas ornaments
Some beautiful ornaments
Julia sizes up a Befana (Italy’s Christmas Witch)
The charming town square
Another stand selling local specialties
More Christmas stands
My favorite little girl
The lights got a little brighter as it got a little darker
The main street was stunning with a beautiful mountainous backdrop
The main piazza
We stopped to warm up and enjoy some vin brulé
Julia warms her hands on mom’s cup
The sun officially sets
Vipiteno at night
The main square at night
Vipiteno was simply beautiful
BRESSANONE (Brixen)
I almost scratched Bressanone from the list – originally, I didn’t think I could fit all five towns and this was the one that I felt could be sacrificed. We were VERY glad that we kept it in the itinerary. This was arguably one of our favorite towns. We didn’t realize that it is the third largest and and oldest town in the province. Bressanone is absolutely full of charm. Beyond all the Christmas festivities, we enjoyed just walking around the city itself, although most everything had closed by the time we finished dinner.
One street leading to the main piazza
The market in the main piazza
The booths were different than the previous town
Julia rode the carousel in front of the main church
The most crowded and popular stands were always the ones selling vin brulè – they had an outdoor “bar” vibe
Holiday decorations
SAN CANDIDO (Innichen)
Did you catch it? San Candido was not listed as one of the five towns above. Franco and Claudia suggested that we add it to the voyage – they described the town as “piccolo ma bello” (small but beautiful). It was only a half an hour away and snuggled tightly in the Dolomites, so it was a no-brainer for me. They didn’t have nearly the amount of Christmas decorations as the originally planned towns, but it truly was “small but beautiful”. Plus, there are only a handful of towns in the world that are nestled in the Dolomite mountains, so it was certainly worth the extra drive.
Julia and I enter the charming town of San Candido
Our first snow of the season
Julia remembered how much she loved to eat it
Main street in the town
Jen and Julia in the main piazza
“Hey guys, wait for me!”
A small river runs through town
The Dolomites surround the town
Another town we passed on the way out
BRUNICO (Bruneck)
Our second stop of the second day was Brunico. We strolled through the markets and then through the city streets. It was a beautiful town, but the markets were small in comparison to the other towns – so we didn’t spend a tremendous amount of time here.
The market surrounded the outer wall of the main city street
They had some great stands with local food and crafts
As usual, the busiest stands were the ones serving the drinks
I just loved this outdoor sports store’s display
Jen and Julia in the center of Brunico
BOLZANO (Bozen)
We didn’t think that anything could top Bressanone, which we had seen the night before. We were wrong. We arrived in Bolzano after nightfall and our eyes opened wide as we walked into the center square. Of all the towns, this one had the biggest Christmas market by far. They had the most decorations. They had the best rides for kids (a toy train that Julia loved riding). In conclusion, one could say they had the most charm. Beyond the markets, we loved losing ourselves in the city streets, taking in the restaurants and the shops. We had a wonderful dinner and walked some more. It was the perfect end to a fun-filled day.
The markets and main church of Bolzano
Julia goes for a train ride on Santa’s sleigh
For a kid that’s always happy, I’ve never seen her this tickled
We stopped for a little vin brulé
Looks like the Russian hockey team also wanted a little vin brulé to warm up
They had a secret Christmas garden off the main piazza
Family photo in the garden
Vendors and crowds flanked the garden made out of Christmas trees, lights and ornaments
Julia floats through the trees
We just loved the garden
Big ornaments on this street were a nice surprise from the lights that are usually strung across
Angels glide across the rooftops
Sadly, our final day was marred by a heavy rain. Our final two stops, Merano and then Trento (two of the places we were most excited about) were unfortunately, scratched from our trip. We didn’t think it would be nearly as much fun to walk around in the rain. If you do decide to take my “Five Diamond Christmas Tour” – do as I say, not as I do. Stick to my original itinerary (Vipiteno, Bressanone, Brunico, Bolzano,Merano and then Trento) and be sure to check the weather forecast!
You may have recently read that our Christmas spirit was put into gear when we attended a Milanese festival early in December. We continued our drive toward Santa’s big day by slipping into second gear and crossing the border into neighboring Switzerland. Our Christmas spirit grew as we set out to enjoy one of the things we love most about Europe in December – the Christmas markets.
Christmas trees like this are in cities all over Europe – this is in the main piazza of Lugano, Switzerland
It just so happens that one of our favorite things about living in Italy is access to wonderful markets year round. In the spring and summer, we can stroll the markets to buy fresh vegetables and aged cheese. In the fall, we can purchase delicious homemade jams and carefully crafted grappa. However, the winter markets are undoubtedly our favorite. The backdrop is perfect – streets framed with Christmas lights. Good cheer around every turn. Wonderful food and beautiful artisanal goods at each stand. Beyond that, it is perfectly acceptable to walk around drinking the specialty drink of the season, vin brulé. This cooked wine is seasoned with sugar and spices – designed to warm your hands and belly as well as comfort your soul. No market visit on a cold December day would be complete without a cup (or two).
A few of the vendors set up in the piazza
Soon, I will feature one of our favorite towns to visit during Christmas – our very own Lake Como. Before we do that, I’ll showcase another lake town that we love – Lugano, Switzerland. The Swiss do a lot of things right. They’ve pretty much nailed watches, chocolate and banking. They have some of the worlds most beautiful lakes and best mountains. Beyond that, we have discovered that they play host to some of the world’s greatest Christmas markets.
You can just feel the Christmas spirit walking around
The always beautiful streets are enhanced with thousands of sparkling Christmas lights
Lugano is a beautiful city that sits along a lake with the same name, Lago di Lugano. In one of the world’s wealthy countries – Lugano stands out as one of it’s richest cities. The charming city and popular tourist destination recently garnered worldwide fame, brought on by America’s favorite mega star – Oprah Winfrey. You may recall a tale that spread like wildfire this past summer (well, it did here anyway). Oprah was shopping and asked to see a purse, but was refused because the the clerk (not knowing whom she was serving) told her in no uncertain terms that, “it was out of her price range“. Strange, I was told the same thing when I asked to see the very same purse!
Lights frame the arches of a building’s walkway
Julia and dad in front of the tree
We arrived in Lugano in the afternoon, but stayed long enough to watch the sun set over the mountains. The Christmas lights blazed bright and we felt the joy of the season deep in our cores. We strolled through the market and decided to enjoy a Swiss specialty – hot chocolate. In Italy and in Switzerland, the hot chocolate is very thick – almost syrupy. I’m not usually a fan, but there is a shop in the Lugano’s piazza that makes the drink perfectly (still thick, but not obscenely dense and chocked full of flavor). Of course, you know that you’re in Lugano when you pay roughly $8 for a cup of hot chocolate and another $3 for the extra whipped cream that your daughter insists on ordering.
The sun sets on the mountains behind the lake
The trees are trimmed back during the winter, but that doesn’t mean they can’t use a little seasonal festivity
Miss Julia
The thick hot chocolate of Switzerland
Julia sure seemed to enjoy it
A tight squeeze in the piazza
They don’t have your “mall Santa” here so we had to improvise. We had her tell this Santa what she wanted
We returned home to Italy full of Christmas spirit, eagerly discussing our upcoming tour of Italy’s best markets and towns for the holidays. But before we drove to the Trentino Alto-Adige region of Italy, I had an early present to unwrap. I had to practice my driving on one of Italy’s most renowned race tracks…
“It’s the most wonderful time of the year”… and that means so many things! It means snow flakes and Christmas lights. It means cold weather and hot chocolate. It means Santa Claus and stockings stuffed with goodies. When you live in Europe, it also means tremendous Christmas markets and delicious vin brulè (cooked wine, usually sold on the streets). Over the past couple weeks, we have been taking advantage of it all! Because Christmas is only four days away – I will spend the next four days posting about our Christmas fun. In order to do that, I have to bend my “unbreakable rule” and publish blog posts out of order. I’ll fast-forward to Christmas and then flash back to some exciting posts that I have in the pipeline.
Oh bej! Oh bej! No, you don’t have to say “gesundheit”! I didn’t sneeze. That is the name of a festival held each year in Milan, spanning from December 7th through the following Sunday. How did it get that wonderful name, you ask? “Oh bej! Oh bej!” means, “oh so nice! Oh so nice!” in the Milanese dialect. It is by far, the most important Christmas festival held in Milan. December 7th is the day of the Patron Saint of Milano, Santo Ambrogio. The festival is said to date back all the way to 1510.
Vendors line the streets during Oh Bej! Oh Bej!
We arrived in Milan early and parked far outside of the central zone. You would think that living just outside of Milan for nearly a year would make me an expert driving in the city. It’s quite the opposite, in fact. I’m even more gun-shy now than I was when I first moved here. Driving through limited zones and parking in residential areas has cost me hundreds of euros in fines. So this time, I didn’t chance it – we parked in a garage outside the central zone and hoofed it just over a mile. The brisk winter weather was cold on our faces, but the fresh air and excitement of the day filled us with an energetic warmth.
Our first stop was the Basilica of Sant’Ambrogio, the basilica commissioned by and named after Milan’s Patron Saint. Construction of the basilica began in 379, making it among the oldest and most significant churches in Milan. Since we were in the city on the actual day of Sant’Ambrogio, there was a large service being held in the basilica.
Basilica Sant’Ambrogio named for Milan’s Patron Saint, Santo Ambrogio
There was a large church service being held, even though it was a Saturday
Next, it was time for us to see the festival and enjoy some of my favorite things – vendor food and vin brulè! In the center of the city stands the Sforza Castle, a medieval fortification built in the 15th century. Here in the 21st century, the fortification plays host to hundreds of vendors that encircle the great castle walls. Over 400 vendors vie for the attention of shoppers looking for food, crafts, Christmas ornaments, books and so much more. We got a couple wonderful pannini (sandwiches) and jockeyed for a spot to enjoy them. After lunch and some shopping, we walked through the gates of the castle and explored the courtyard.
Over 400 vendors flanked the ancient castle walls
The best roasted chestnuts come from the back of trucks
There were literally dozens of stands with delicious Sicilian treats
A stand full of artisanal goods
I picked us up a couple sandwiches – porchetta and salamelle
Salamelle panino
After her first bite, Julia decided she didn’t want to share – I couldn’t blame her
A fountain sprays in front of Sforza Castle
We went inside to explore the courtyard
Jen holds Julia tight in a crowd full of people
When we had our fill of the market, we strolled down Via dei Mercanti toward the Duomo. No trip to Milan would be complete without seeing one of the most amazing architectural examples of our age. The Duomo is particularly special during Christmas time. Ablaze with sparkling lights and framed behind a giant Christmas tree, you can’t help but become filled with Christmas spirit.
Duomo di Milano
The festival just whet our appetites for all the Christmas fun that we would enjoy. I hope that I’ve been able to do the same for you. We still have so much left to explore together, including the Christmas markets of Switzerland and a tour of some of Italy’s “best towns for Christmas.” Plus, I got an early present… I hope that you’ll help me unwrap it. I’ll give you a hint – it’s got four wheels, two doors and 572 horsepower! Grab a warm cup of vin brulè and get comfy (oh yeah, we’ll give you a recipe for that too) – we’ve still got a lot of exploring Christmas time in Europe left to do.
Jen has been pushing me to work harder on my writing; she’s hopeful that one day I can earn a little discretionary income. I have little faith that it will yield any positive results – but on the off chance a publisher is reading this and wants to take a chance on an untrained, unknown, first-time blogger… contact my agent. My agent is Jen. She takes 100% commission.
Julia helps me write on the blog
Since I promised her I would do my best, I recently came across a helpful set of rules to improve my writing skills. I’ve seen this list floating across the internet a couple times and now seemed an appropriate time to re-post it. I’m sorry that I don’t know who to credit as the author – so thank you, you witty SOB, whoever you are.
HOW TO WRITE GOOD
1. Avoid Alliteration. Always.
2. Prepositions are not words to end sentences with.
3. Avoid cliches like the plague. They’re old hat.
4. Comparisons are as bad as cliches.
5. Be more or less specific.
6. Writers should never generalize.
Seven: Be consistent!
8. Don’t be redundant; don’t use more words than necessary; it’s highly superfluous.
9. Who needs rhetorical questions?
10. Exaggeration is a billion times worse than understatement.
Thank you anonymous poster that created this list of unbreakable rules. I’ll be sure to follow them to the letter of the law!
Since Thanksgiving is tomorrow – here is a suggestion of something you can do to dress up your leftovers.
Risotto is a favorite of mine; winter, spring, summer or fall. While cooking risotto, I like to use fresh, seasonal ingredients – and with fall comes all things pumpkin. So, this was my chance to combine one of my favorite dishes with one of my favorite fall flavors.
Risotto con zucca (Risotto with pumpkin)
However, when it came to the Thanksgiving dinner we just had, I knew it would be too much for a first course. While risotto is relatively simple to prepare it is time consuming and requires my undivided attention for at least 20 minutes. I decided instead to create a new family tradition. My plan was to serve pumpkin risotto the day after Thanksgiving, along with all of the other delicious leftovers. I think it’s a perfect way to add a new element to a meal we’ve already eaten a couple times over by lunch the next day. I had plenty of left over zucca (pumpkin) from the soup course, which worked out perfectly. I have officially converted Greg into a pumpkin/squash lover. If you want to add some Italian flavors to your holiday meal this year, check out my simple recipe. I hope your family enjoys it as much as we do.
INGREDIENTS (serving of 4)
>Olive oil
>One (1) small onion (diced)
>Four (4) cups of chicken stock
>Nine (9) palms of arborio rice (two per person with one extra). Roughly two (2) cups
>Half (½) – full (1) cup of white wine (depending on taste… and quality of wine)
>Roughly ½ cup of grated parmesan cheese and additional cheese for the table and for garnish
>Third (1/3) stick of butter
>Salt to taste
>One and a half (1 ½) cups of cubed butternut squash (one butternut squash cleaned, peeled and deseeded)
The ingredients
Arborio rice
Directions
>Cube the pumpkin and dice the onion
Prepare your pumpkin and onion
>Heat chicken stock in a pot
>On a separate burner, heat olive oil in a large flat pan with high sides. Add onion and squash until it is softened and the onion is translucent. While the onion and squash are cooking, add a dash of salt. This could take a little over 5 minutes. Don’t allow the onions to brown
Watch that the onions don’t burn
>Add the rice and mix together. Stir until the rice is toasted (but not brown) about three – four (3-4) minutes
Stir in the rice
>Add the wine and continue to cook the rice until the wine is absorbed. After a minute, add a ladle or two of the stock, stirring the rice continuously until the liquid is absorbed
Laddle in the broth
>Continue stirring and ladling the broth for approximately fifteen (15) minutes. Be sure to taste as you go and add salt accordingly. The rice should be al dente and creamy
Keep stirring and add more broth once it’s absorbed
>Remove from heat and stir in butter and Parmesan cheese. Cover and allow pan to sit for five (5) minutes
Stir in the parmesano
Cover and let sit for five minutes
>Serve right away and top with fresh grated Parmesan cheese
Don’t forget to add the grana (grated cheese) and enjoy
PLEASE NOTE – Cooking risotto requires constant attention. Make sure the table is set and everything else you are serving is ready before you begin the rice.
Don’t forget to combine your risotto with your Thanksgiving leftovers!
Is it possible that the turkey gets better after the Thanksgiving meal?!
Combine whatever sides you have leftover
I hope that you’ve enjoyed this recipe and that perhaps you’ll try to incorporate it into this year’s Thanksgiving! Let us know if you do and buon appetito!
