Tag Archives: Landscape

Family Stories, History, Landscape, Photography, Sipping Espresso, Travel - Italy

Trieste… Italy’s Most “European” City

July 31, 2014 Greg

So, I’m back here on Sipping Espresso… blogging. Weird. I’m in America. I’m blogging about Italy from America. Can I do that?! Is that even allowed?! Well, I promised you in my Final Blog Post From Italy that I would finish our tale of overseas adventure and intrigue (OK, OK – more like overseas adventure of gluttony and transparency), so I suppose that I’ll have to make good on my word. For those of you that are sick of hearing about these adventures… I’m sorry, but I’m OCD and I am not much good at leaving things unfinished.

“Well, get going already Dad and tell us this story”!

So, let’s flash back; way, way back to this past spring when Jen’s sister came to visit. Just as they departed for Venice and Rome, we took our own leave from Como and headed toward the metropolitan city of Trieste. When I think about what brought us to Trieste, I finally understand the word bittersweet. We undertook the four-hour road trip to Italy’s easternmost city so that I could run in the Maratonina d’Europa (Europe’s Half Marathon). Despite having to add the somewhat embarrassing “ina” suffix to the end of Maratona (changing the meaning to “very little”), completing my first half-marathon was a very “sweet” accomplishment for me. However, the impetus behind the race was a very “bitter” one. Jen and I had started listing all the things that we wanted to do before our time in Italy came to an end. This particular road trip checked many of our boxes; competing in a race in Europe, a visit to the city of Trieste, time in the region of Friuli–Venezia Giulia, capped off with a visit to Slovenia (upcoming post). Now, that checked a lot of boxes, so careful planning began and hotels rooms were booked.

Julia and I stand in front of the glasses they had set up for the race

Here’s how I would sum up Trieste – it is a MUST-SEE city. Sometimes I find myself guilty of trying to label a city by comparing it to another city. “Rome is like New York, but much older and without the high-rises”. Sometimes, you’ve just got to stop and appreciate where you are for what it is. Don’t try to “label” the place or put it in a box; its easy to fall into that trap with Trieste. A city that has bounced back and forth between Slovenian, Austrian and Italian rule leaves us with a place today that is proud of its blend in architecture and attitude. Trieste is a city not at all confused about its confusing identity. With a rich mix of Slavic, Germanic and Latin influences – I am simply content to label this magical place as one of the most “European” cities I have ever visited.

We're finally here in Trieste! — We’re finally here in Trieste!

Fountain that accurately describes Trieste's ties to the sea — Fountain that accurately describes Trieste’s ties to the sea

Along the main street — Along Corso Cavour, the main street adjacent to the cities famous piazza

My race was on a Sunday and so we arrived Saturday with a planned departure on Monday. After we checked into the hotel, we strolled down to the Piazza Unità d’Italia to register for my race. I had often heard this piazza referred to as “the most beautiful piazza in Italy” and what I saw did not disappoint. The grand square is the largest of any on the water in all of Europe. On this particular spring weekend the piazza was also the location of my finish line.

We walked down with a friend I made in the hotel - he was also running in the race — We walked down with a friend I made in the hotel – he was also running in the race

Julia stands with Julia in the square — Jen hangs out with Julia in the square

The piazza at night — The Piazza Unita d’Italia at night

Julia hugs Jen while we were walking around

We didn’t have much to worry about the night before the race, so we strolled through the piazza and walked the roads along the water. They had all sorts of fair-type events set up for the race, including tents serving beer, desserts and carnival rides. I took Julia on the Ferris Wheel and got a great view of the city and the harbor. After the fun, we took in a spectacular seafood dinner near the harbor (mm’mmm I’m making myself hungry for fresh Italian food. Never had that problem while writing until now, when I can’t get it quite as easily).

I get ready to take her on her first Ferris Wheel — I get ready to take her on her first ferris wheel

View from our car at the top of the ferris wheel

The sunsets in Trieste were like nothing I've ever seen — The sunsets in Trieste were like nothing I’ve ever seen

The light play from the sky was this stunning both nights we were there

We had to try some delicious frittelle with nutella — We had to try some delicious frittelle with Nutella

“Honey… you’ve got a little Nutella, riiiiight there”

On race day, I was up and at ’em early – ready to beat my goal time (which I didn’t do). Of course, I forgot that I was in Italy and so the start of the race was a little later than I originally planned. I kept warm by jogging around the parking lot and taking in the crowds. I was tickled when I ran past the snack tents used for refueling depleted calories (usually covered by bananas and power bars) and found brioche and other Italian pastries. When I finished, I could not have been more pleased to be greeted by Jen and Julia; and to have Julia wear my medal.

There wasn't much happening at the start line until after the race was supposed to begin — There wasn’t much happening at the start line until after the race was supposed to begin

I had the sea to my right for almost the entire half-marathon

I felt (and looked) like death, but I crossed the finish line

My little peanut was proud of me... that was the best part of all — My little peanut was proud of me… that was the best part of all

Julia may have been more interested in the biscotti than the medal

Picture along the canal that runs through the city streets — Picture along the Canale Grande (Grand Canal) that runs through the city streets

After the race, we stopped for a quick snack and beer (hey, I earned it) before going back to the hotel to change. Then, it was time to tour the city! Even though my marathon race was just a maratonina, I’m sure that we walked the remaining 13.1 miles as we wound through Trieste’s ancient streets. This was especially challenging, since the first part of the tour required me to carry Julia and her stroller up the Scala Giganti (Giant Steps). We capped it all off back in the Piazza Unità d’Italia for happy hour before a wonderful dinner.

We stopped for a beer and light snack along the canal

The touring began with the STEPS — The touring began with the Scala dei Giganti (Giant Steps) – this is only about 25% of them

After a long uphill climb, we got this panoramic of the city

We arrived at the CASTLE — We arrived at the Castello di San Giusto

STATUE — Statue in front of the castle depicts maritime soldiers at war

In front of the castle were ancient Roman ruins

I love that you can find young soccer players were ancient Roman soldiers stood a thousand years before — Young soccer players compete where ancient Roman soldiers stood a thousand years before

Here I am in front of the CASTLE — Here I am in front of the Castello di San Giusto

Nearby is a church - see if you can find the two cannon balls that have been lodged in the stone during a siege from the sea — Nearby is the Cattedrale di San Giusto – see if you can find the two cannon balls that have been lodged in the stone during a siege from the sea centuries before

Wonderful ancient streets – this is Viale XX Settembre

Half-Marathon or not... this kid had to get up and down these stairs somehow — Half-Marathon or not… this kid had to get up and down these stairs somehow

Ancient Roman theatre — Teatro Romano di Trieste – ancient Roman theatre

We stopped in the piazza for happy hour — We stopped back in the piazza for happy hour

My happy hour instagram shot — My happy hour Instagram shot

Julia and I took a swing around the piazza — Julia and I took a stroll around the piazza

The grand canal at night — Chiesa di Sant’Antonio Nuovo at the end of the Canale Grande – well-lit at night

If you ever find yourself in northeast Italy (I’m talking to YOU, when you plan that inevitable visit Venice) – do yourself a favor and carve out a couple of days to see Trieste. You’ll be glad you did!

Bergamo, Family Stories, Landscape, Lombardia, Travel - Italy

Bergamo – Italy’s Most Underrated City

June 10, 2014 Greg

I played with various options for the title of this post, ranging from “Italy’s Most Hidden Treasure” to “Italy’s Best Kept Secret”. Really, any of those title would be apropos. Bergamo is all of those things and so much more. Ultimately, I went with “most underrated” because it seems that most people would rather bypass this northern Italian city for the sexier Venice, Florence or Rome. Heck, even neighboring Verona pulls more visitors than Bergamo. As a matter of fact, I had never even heard of Bergamo until I moved here and I had visited nearby Como plenty of times leading up to this adventure.

Getting to know Bergamo was truly a blessing, because it is the type of place that we will continue to visit over and over. The distinguishing feature of Bergamo is that it is really two cities in one. There is the older, medieval city at the top of the hill (Città Alta) and the much more modern city (Città Bassa) below. Incidentally, I use the term “modern city” quite loosely… most notable development is still several hundred years old.

Secured roads allowed access into the ancient city

The view from atop the hill extends for miles

The main city gate, flanked by the Venetian lions from the time of Venetian rule — The main city gate, marked with the winged Venetian lion from the time Venetians ruled the city

On our first visit well over a year ago, we were drawn toward Città Alta. We spent most of our day wandering the cobblestone streets, soaking up the magical views the high city extends before you. We had been dying to come back to Bergamo and finally got the opportunity when Jen’s sister came to visit with Matt (first post HERE). I thought the mixture of old and new would be something unique for them to see, and the hour(ish) car ride from our home would allow an easy day trip. We loaded our car and headed east toward the city. Our first step was to ascend the hill toward Città Alta (also known as Città Vecchio or Old City) by means of finiculare (cable car). We had researched a good lunch place and in no time, we found ourselves settled outside on the patio of La Tana. After lunch, we spent quite a bit of time wandering around the cobblestone streets and settled in among the other tourists and locals in the centro (center) of town.

La Tana - a fabulous restaurant — La Tana – a fabulous restaurant

Jen's sister, Jessica with Julia — Jen’s sister, Jessica with Julia

The waiter recommended a fabulous beer, produced locally. I'm still searching for where it's sold — The waiter recommended a fabulous beer, produced locally. I’m still searching for where it’s sold

Eventually we descended to Città Bassa with plenty of daylight still above us. This gave us a perfect opportunity to enjoy an aperitivo (or two) in the sun. With our thirst quenched, we continued our tour of the lower city. This was the first time that Jen and I spent any notable amount of time down below and we were thrilled with what we discovered. The much more modern, lower city is just as special as the ancient city above.

The lower city has a charm that rivals the higher city

The streets are full of shops and caffès

My only regret is that my photos don’t do this special city justice. I urge you to spend a full day exploring Bergamo and come discover for yourself why this is Italy’s “most underrated city”.

Castles, Food, Humor, Restaurants, Travel - Italy, Tuscany

You “Massa” Check Out This City (Massa, Italy)

May 12, 2014 Greg

Man, do I love the bad puns in my titles or what? Probably about as much as I love posing rhetorical questions to my readers…

Roughly twelve days ago, I was as proud of myself as Arvind Mahankali when he successfully spelled knaidel to beat Pranav Sivakumar and secure the championship title during the 86th Scripps National Spelling Bee (apparently, this particular Indian-American knows a thing or two about Jewish comfort food). Why was I so pleased with myself, you ask? Well, I thought that I had finally caught up with our stories on the blog. And then a whirlwind of activity commenced in a flash as Jen’s sister arrived for a visit with her boyfriend. We had such a nice time traveling and eating with them (really, is there anything else you would want to do in Italy?) that now I have a ton more to write about. Additionally, we left them to their own devices while we embarked on a rewarding road-trip, which I cannot wait to tell you about. So, now once again – I am behind the times again faster than you can spell prosciutto.

An accurate portrayal of me as I struggle to keep up with the blog

When I was looking ahead toward the next 5-8 posts, I realized that I would be remiss not to step back and mention our visits to Pisa and then Massa in northern Tuscany. When I last wrote, I detailed our trip to Lucca (HERE). During the drive home we detoured to marvel at the Torre pendente di Pisa (Leaning Tower of Pisa) before getting back on the road. We hadn’t traveled too much further when our perfectly timed Italian stomachs told us it was time for lunch (at first I thought our three stomachs growling in unison was a tractor-trailer honking furiously at me). I was more in the mood for a leisurely lunch than a quick stop at an AutoGrill (picture a rest-stop along the NJ Turnpike with better food and espresso). I turned to my trusty “TripAdvisor” cell phone app and searched for a restaurant near us. I discovered Il Fatty (yeah… you guessed the translation; The Fatty) in the city we were approaching. With a name like, “the fatty” – how could you go wrong?! I took the exit toward Massa and headed into the center of town.

Torre pendente di Pisa – Leaning Tower of Pisa

Work on the tower began in 1173 and took 199 years to complete

Julia photographs me in front of the tower

Battistero di San Giovanni (Pisa Baptistry) and Primatial (Pisa Cathedral)

You may not have heard of Massa (we hadn’t), but if you’re a fan of interior design, than you’ve definitely heard of the province in which Massa is located, Carrara. Carrara marble is the fashionable stone of choice for kitchens counters the world over. The stone has been mined in this area for centuries (Carrara marble has been used since Ancient Rome). Upon exiting the highway, my mind was set only on lunch with no expectation of discovering any real beauty; the area is heavily industrialized. Like a naval shipyard or factory park, the landscape is blanketed with large machinery, billowing factories and tractor trailers transporting thousands of pounds worth of the white stone.

Panorama Massa Italy — Massa and Carrara are sister cities in the Province of Carrara

However, we were surprised when we got away from the mining equipment and approached the center of town. The city itself was clean and beautiful. It became obvious that Massa has prospered as a result of the local product. The town is well designed and perfectly maintained. Even the street curbs and park benches are made of Carrara marble! After a delicious lunch at Il Fatty we wanted to discover what the city had to offer. There seemed to be a surprise around every turn. We found orange trees and large piazze (town squares), ancient buildings and ample shopping. We were pleasantly surprised to see how much is available to tourists, although the place is happily devoid of the map-reading, fanny-pack wearing, crowd-shoving sightseers (by the way, I’m not casting stones; that is usually us in a nutshell, less the fanny-pack).

The — Il Fatty’s “signature” sandwich – Panino Lamprodotto

Homemade torta di riso, proudly made by the owner's son, Alessandro — Homemade torta di riso, proudly made by the owner’s son, Alessandro

Great statue in the center of the main piazza

There is even a wonderful 15th century castle perched high above the town. We took the narrow and windy drive up the hill, only to discover the castle was closed for repair. Oh well, I was able to get a couple beautiful panoramic’s of the city and neighboring sea.

The position of the city is well situated between the coast and the mountains

If I can borrow a page from the Michelin Star guide-book, I would rank Massa with a full star (out of three). One star denotes a very nice place worthy of a visit (but not a place to go far out of your way to see). If you do visit, tell Alessandro at Il Fatty that we said hello. However, be weary of his suggestion to try the local favorite, Panino Lamprodotto. It’s basically just tripe (cows stomach) on a bun – not my favorite Italian food. Of course, I would be lying if I told you I left a single bite behind.

Friends, History, Humor, Photography, Travel - Italy, Tuscany

“Lucca Over Here… This Tuscan Town is Amazing”!

April 25, 2014 Greg

If you read the title of this post with your best impression of an Italian accent, then you probably nailed the pronunciation of one of our new favorite Italian towns. Lucca has been on our bucket list to visit for quite some time and now we can happily say we’ve been.

Lucca, Italy viewed from the Torre Guinigi

Torre Guinigi - Lucca — Another angle from Torre Guinigi

The city is renowned for many things, not the least of which is the giant annual gathering of comic book nerds and fantasy film geeks. Lucca plays host to Europe’s version of Comic-Con, the Fiera Internazionale del Fumetto (International Festival of Comics) or as it’s commonly referred – Lucca Comics and Games.

Some participants of Lucca Comics. Photo courtesy of Francesco Petrucci — Some participants of Lucca Comics and Games. Photo courtesy of Francesco Petrucci

For those of us that don’t have any desire to put on a Superman costume (yes, I’m just enough of a geek to know the term cosplay), there is more than enough to do in Lucca, which I will detail below. Thanks very much to some free press bestowed on me by Italia Living, I have recently picked up a few new readers (benvenuto a Sipping Espresso) and so I’m going to treat this post a little differently than in the past. As opposed to running through our little vacation part by part, instead I will opt to go a bit more “mainstream” and simply highlight the featured attractions of the city. Of course, I haven’t boiled it down to a “Top 10 Things To Do In Lucca” just yet. I like to hear myself talk far too much!

During Medieval and Roman times, it was quite common to fortify entire cities behind massive protective walls. Today, Lucca is a preeminent example of such fortification and one of the few cities left in Italy with her ancient walls fully intact. It is a wonderful experience to drive your car through the same gate that was quite possibly used by Julius Caesar himself. Of course, in this scenario, I’m simply the chauffeur and my own little Julia is the royalty riding in the back of the chariot. Even though I can’t positively date the existing walls as far back as Caesar, I can place him in Lucca for the well documented Lucca Conference, along with Pompey and Crassus in 56 BC. The origin of the city itself date back as far as 180 BC. Eventually Lucca rose in importance to the Roman empire and achieved immense wealth and status in the 11th century, thanks to the silk trade. The result of this wealth is evident today; the city is very well maintained. Nearly every street features an ancient church boasting a façade clad with expensive marble. Well designed piazzas are now the gathering places for tourists, street performers and restauranteurs. Streets lined with charming shops and wonderful cafes full of patrons keep the vibe of the city humming well into the night.

Walls of Lucca — The ancient walls completely enclose the city

You can find many fine example of sculpture and statues along the top of the walls — You can find many fine examples of sculpture and statues along the top of the walls

The walls are wide enough for cars to pass along the top, but it is solely pedestrian

Churches of Lucca — One of the many churches that can be found on nearly every corner in the city

Our reason for being in Lucca was to visit our good friend, Beth (although here she goes by, Elizabeth which is better understood in Italian). We had an amazing time when we stayed at her home in Tuscany last year, which I wrote about HERE and HERE. She hosted us once again, but this time it was in the Bed & Breakfast she recently purchased, Le Violette. The place matches her personality perfectly; warm and inviting with an extra pinch of charm. I’ll write a full review of her B&B in an upcoming post. After we unloaded our bags in the room, Beth started our tour of the city beginning with the walls, which were widened centuries ago. In fact, not that long ago they used the walls for racing cars. Today, they are purely pedestrian.

Lucca Walls — View of the main bell tower of Lucca from on top of the walls

We hopped off the walls and strolled through the city, enjoying Lucca as only a pedestrian can.

Via del Fosso has a canal running through the center

Via Cenami is one of the main shopping streets

Julia takes a picture with me in Piazza San Francesco

The old market building where vendors would set up their stalls

Most Italian cities feature outdoor markets one-two times a week. We made our way to one of the fabulous Lucca mercato (market), which is held every Wednesday and Saturday.

We discovered that we accidentally strolled outside the walls by following the long line of vendors

Beautiful flowers are just one of the many things you could buy in the market

Lucca markets — I catch Jen for a photo in the market

Markets Italy Lucca — The markets can get crowded but they are a great place to pick up a picnic lunch

While in Lucca, you will want to position yourself in a vantage point that will command a view of the entire city, valley and mountains. You can choose to scale the Torre delle Ore (Clock Tower) or the Torre Guinigi (Guinigi Tower). We opted for the later, because it is the only tower in the city that has trees planted on top. But the ascent is not for the faint of heart; it’s a steep 230 steps until you get to the top. Compared to other similar towers, I found the €6 entry fee a bit steep, considering you don’t get anything other than the view (many similar sites also feature other historical items – this was purely just the tower). I quickly reversed my position on the fee when I actually took in the view. Breathtaking might be an appropriate word to describe the panorama.

Torre Guinigi steps — The final staircase ascending toward the top of the tower (shooting from below, looking up)

I lost my cool when I thought this was the top and I would have to view through a cage - when I cooled down, I realized there was a door and simply pushed on — I lost my cool when I thought this was the top and I would have to view the city through a cage. When I calmed down, I realized there was a door and simply pushed on

View of the city with the prominent Cattedrale di San Martino in view

Students in Lucca — I noticed a few groups of school children; Lucca is a popular destination for Italians

You will certainly want to pay a visit the Piazza dell’Anfiteatro, a Roman amphitheater that has been reconstructed into a piazza compete with charming shops and cafes. We sat and enjoyed a few drinks while Julia enjoyed running around with Beth’s son, Indi.

Lucca Amphitheater — Panoramic of the Piazza inside the amphitheater

Outside the Lucca Amphitheater you can see the remains of the original Roman structure

Of course, no trip to Lucca would be complete without a visit to the Piazza San Michele and a tour through the Chiesa di San Michele in Foro.

Piazza San Michele — The piazza hosts some performers that loved playing American 90’s rock (primarily Nirvana)

I hope you enjoyed our tour through Lucca together and consider adding it as your next Italian destination. Below are a couple more pictures to temp you even further…

Buccellatio di Lucca is a typical bread that is eaten year round

Streets of Lucca — We constantly commented on how clean and well maintained the city is

Gelato in Lucca — Julia enjoys some gelato after dinner one night

“Come along for an upcoming post all about a couple restaurants in Lucca!”

Ci vediamo a presto (I’ll see you soon)!

Family Stories, Festivals, Food and Drink, Lombardia, Markets, Travel - Italy, Wine

Wine in the Springtime

April 21, 2014 Greg

Who doesn’t love a good festival? The combination of food, games and fun in an outdoor setting is always guaranteed to be a success. I mean, what more could you ask for? But if the name of the festival is Primavera dei Vini (Wine in the Springtime) and the location is in the remote Italian countryside – then you’ve got all the ingredients you need and more!

Vineyards of Rovescala along our drive into town

The farmers have been producing wine for over 800 years — The farmers have been producing Bonarda wine for over 800 years

If you check Wikipedia to learn about Rovescala, you will discover that this small commune (municipality) is located about 50km southeast of Milan. Aaaaand… basta (stop). That’s it. If you research the festival itself, you’re likely to uncover only two or three short blog posts about it, aaaaaand… basta! So this event is a relatively unknown festival in a small, remote Italian town – why on earth would anyone be interested in going?! Because it’s a relatively unknown festival in a small and remote Italian town, of course! In our experience, these are usually the best gatherings – genuine and unpretentious, just as it should be in Italy.

I was loving the group of Harley riders that rolled into town

Of course, what Italian festival is complete with a collection of Vespa's?! — Of course, what Italian festival is complete with a collection of Vespa’s?!

Every Sunday in March, the residents of Rovescala pull together for the festival meant to celebrate the approaching spring with open air markets, parades, music and games. Of course, what Italian festival would be complete without food and wine as the central theme to the day? With the largest two spaces in town dedicated to either food or wine, you are guaranteed that something delicious will pass your palate. They also had plenty to do for the kids.

They had a face painter for the kids, free of charge - she wouldn't even take a tip — They had a face painter for the kids, free of charge – she wouldn’t even take a tip

Of course, Julia wanted to be a Tiger — Of course, Julia wanted to be a tiger

She proved how scary she was with a growl and scratch with her claw

Jen and her baby Tiger — Jen and her baby tiger

I couldn’t uncover a specific reason for the festival, which is close to approaching its 30th year (many such events are held in the honor of a specific saint or battle or historical element). It is my suspicion that the collections of farmers producing a wonderful and relatively unknown wine worked with the local comune (municipal office) to promote their regional product and boost tourism. While the festival does not pull a large contingent of international visitors, each Sunday in March the town swells to capacity with other Italians living nearby.

Like so many things Italian, the hills surrounding Rovescala are rooted in a tradition that stretches back over eight centuries. The grapes grown for the production of the local Bonarda wines are of a seldom seen variety; the Croatina grape, which is then typically blended with the Barbera grape to make the wine. You won’t discover a finer example of Bonarda wine (not to be confused with the Bonarda Piemontese vine) then you will here in the foothills of the Apennines mountains in our hometown region of Lombardia (Lombardy). This wine website describes the grape,

The mid- to late-ripening grape delivers wines with dark color, gushing fruit, low acidity and soft tannins, often resembling montepulciano or dolcetto in expression.

Before we could get to all the wine tasting, we wanted to fill our stomachs with some food. We discovered that the main pavilion had open table dining, where “neighbors” become friends. In fact, our neighbors were happy to share some of their frog legs with both me and Julia when I asked about them. To say the dining was “organized chaos” is an understatement. But the delicious food, fun neighbors, guitar player and cheap wine (I got a full glass for €1) more than made up for it! The authenticity of the experience was definitely one of these “this is why we moved to Italy” moments.

Inside the pavilion for food - good luck finding a table, we waited about 20 minutes for space — Inside the pavilion for food – good luck finding a table, we waited about 20 minutes for space

We were thrilled when we finally claimed our spot

We lucked out with some great neighbors who were a lot of fun

It was great listening to this guy playing and singing at the next table

After lunch, we strolled past the outdoor vendors displaying their hand crafted goods – anything from homemade grappa to artisanal wooden bowls. We made our way to the main hall where the farmers were eager to showcase their wines. A modest €5 bought me an empty wine glass complete with a nifty case that allowed me to dangle the container from my neck (you know, in case I needed both hands to have a conversation like a true Italian – picture a lot of hand gestures). We befriended, Alessandro Dellafiore – the President of the Pro Loco Rovescala a local organization designed to promote local products. He explained that as long as I didn’t leave the building, I could re-fill my glass any number of times and try as many different wines as my little heart desired. “Jen, buckle up and get comfortable – we’re going to be here a while!“

Merchants sold all type of hand crafted goods

Inside the wine hall - they Julia a wine necklace so she could join in the fun — Inside the wine hall Alessandro gave Julia a wine necklace so she could join in the fun

Julia carefully helps me select my favorite wine

After I had enough liquid courage, I decided that I needed to demonstrate my manliness. I can think of no better way to peacock than to climb a telephone pole in order to slap a leg of prosciutto! I was in luck, as that option was readily available to the brave few willing to try. I waited and watched a half a dozen guys and gals try and fail to reach the top. While I was in line, a kid roughly fifteen years old made it to the top. His effort was rewarded with a bottle of wine. I grinned in admiration of the culture that rewards their youth with a bottle of wine. When it was my turn, I strutted to the pole as if I was Michael Jordan saddling up to the free throw line. I knew it would be no problem to practically fly to the top. That is, until I made my first upward thrust and realized my dress shoes were a major detriment. I nearly slipped coming right out of the gate, but I recovered and found my grove. I made it to the top of the pole in record time and was the only person to receive a large cheer from the crowd and two bottles of wine for my speed (and a bit of showmanship). After I came down, I was pleased to have earned a big hug from Julia in addition to my liquid prize.

It may not have been graceful, but I was the fastest climber of the day

Julia cheers me on - just the encouragement I needed — Julia cheers me on – just the encouragement I needed

At last! I made it to the top and slapped that prosciutto like I've never slapped a prosciutto before! — At last! I made it to the top and slapped that prosciutto like I’ve never slapped a prosciutto before!

Julia ran up and gave me a big hug - that was the best prize — Julia ran up and gave me a big hug – that was the best prize

Of course, a couple bottle of wine isn't too shabby either — Of course, a couple bottles of wine isn’t too shabby either

She did pretty well - she won a generous bag of candy — She did pretty well – she won a generous bag of candy

After the participants all volunteered, the pros took over

We wrapped the day with a little more walking and shopping (we went back to buy some wine as gifts and to add to our cellar). Julia stopped to take a seat and “chat” with some locals in front of their home – I suppose she wanted to practice the Italian art of dolce far niente (the sweetness of doing nothing). All in all – it was a fun day and well worth the time in the car.

Julia is an expert at “dolce far niente” (the sweetness of doing nothing)

Cruises, History, Landscape, Photography, Sicily, Travel - Italy

Michael Corleone Says Ciao to Taormina, Sicily

April 11, 2014 Greg

Sicilia (Sicily) was the birthplace of the original Godfather, Don Vito Corleone; its shores harbored his son, Michael Corleone and recently the island hosted Don Greggorio and his small family. My only disappointment in visiting Sicily was that my wife, Jen wouldn’t let me wear a white suit and hat while walking around passing out fruit like I was Don Vito himself. Oh well, there’s always next time…

The sun rises over Catania, Sicily — The sun rises over Catania. How can you be expected to walk around without a white suit?!

I was so excited to visit Sicily because I’ve wanted to see this unique part of the country for as long as I can remember. This region of Italy is so far south from where we live that I wasn’t sure if we would ever get the opportunity to explore the island while living here. Sicily boasts a plethora of interesting facts that I couldn’t begin to detail in a single post. However, perhaps the most interesting few points are that the island is the largest in the Mediterranean, archeological evidence dates human inhabitants are far back as 8,000 BC and the terrain has changed hands dozens of times (from Greek to Byzantine to Roman and all over again and again).

Ìsula Bedda is local dialect for Isola Bella, or Beautiful Island

While the capital city of Palermo is the largest and most populous on the island, Catania is another popular tourist destination and the port city that received us on our visit. The city also bore nostalgic significance – Catania was the birthplace and home of Jen’s bisnonna (great-grandmother), Rapisardi. Even though there is plenty to do in Catania, we decided to take the hour-long train ride up the coast to Taormina. We were not the first to make this journey – Taormina has been one of the most popular tourist destinations in Sicily since the early 19th century. However, we came at a particularly interesting time. The infamous Mount Etna had just erupted a couple of days before our arrival and evidence of the black soot was everywhere.

The black soot from the explosion of Mount Etna covered the entire area

Julia enjoyed walking on what became a black pathway

We were all fascinated how far the soot traveled, literally blanketing the town

The rapid expansion of Taormina is believed to have begun around 345 BC. It originally started as part of the Greek empire before falling into the hands of the Romans. Today, the city remains high atop the ridges of the coastline, commanding a beautiful (and strategic) view of the sea. Before we could walk her ancient streets, we had to ascend the long and winding roads from the train station. We secured ourselves a cab and helped some other non-Italian speaking tourists get cabs of their own. Since there were more people than cabs, I offered to share our cab with a German couple. I arranged a pick-up time with the same cab driver at a discounted rate. Not only did we get to split the fare, but we got a discount by giving the same guy round-trip business. I’m always happy to find good travel deals!

Taormina has beautiful coastline and wonderful beaches

The city is nestled high atop the cliffs

The city is something truly wonderful to behold

Julia took turns posing with her parents

Once again, Julia was a hit with the other tourists that wanted to hold her and take pictures

Upon arriving in Taormina, we spent some time walking around, soaking up the lovely street scenes. Eventually, we wound our way to the Teatro Antico di Taormina (Ancient Theatre of Taormina). The amphitheater is a fine example of Greek engineering that dates to the seventh century BC. What is most fascinating about this theatre (apart from its spectacular position overtop the Mediterranean) is that the use of brick in its composition hint at Roman construction (an era much later than the seventh century BC). But the design is that of ancient Greece. This architectural style in combination with other archeological elements has unfurled the prevailing theory that the Romans rebuilt the amphitheater overtop an existing Greek theatre. Today, the preservation of this ancient wonder is truly remarkable.

The view as an audience member in the amphitheater

This ancient theatre dates all the way back to the seventh century BC

The design of the theatre is that of ancient Greece

The views from the top of the theatre are remarkable

Julia and I take a picture with the theater behind us — Julia and I take a picture with the theatre and coastline behind us

I'm a lucky guy - Julia gives me a kiss — I’m a lucky guy – Julia gives me a kiss

After quite a bit of time exploring the amphitheater, we strolled through the city streets, marveling at the beauty behind each turn. However, we had more on our minds than just lollygagging. We were bound and determined to try arancini, which are essentially balls of fried rice. Of course, there is oh so much more to it than just that! This local Sicilian treat dates all the way back to the 10th century. The perfectly fried balls of heaven are often times stuffed with ragu, pancetta, cheese or other treats. We got a simple variation, just risotto fried lightly beneath breadcrumbs – we couldn’t be happier with our decision. I’ve included a link to a recipe HERE, although we haven’t tried to make them ourselves yet. We’ve since eaten arancini in other parts of Italy – but it’s never quite as good as it was that day in Sicily.

“Quick, dad – take my picture… photo-op!”

Oranges were in season — Mandarini (mandarin oranges) were in season

Julia found some pigeons that she became friends with

Julia is no stranger to her winged friends

She even made friends with a micino (little kitty)

We took our final walk through Taormina and back toward our departing ship. We had one last port to round out our time at sea – a day in the historic city of Naples.

W got one last look at the beautiful city streets

We barely made it back to the ship before we set sail toward our final destination

Cruises, Friends, Greece, History, Humor, Sipping Espresso, Travel - Europe, UNESCO

Let’s Set Sail Together Again (Corfu, Greece)!

March 17, 2014 Greg

It’s been nearly a month and a half since my last meaningful post and I am once again faced with the monumental task of getting caught back up. I’m not sure how or why I allowed myself to get so far behind, but I do know that I have left myself a lot of work. The wine, cheese and salami will just have to wait (well, I suppose it can’t hurt to have a little wine while I write). I would like to apologize to my readers for this delay and I would like to acknowledge one loyal reader in particular; Helen actually reached out to me through our Contact Us page and basically said, “what the hell, Greg – where’ve you been?!” Helen and everyone – even though it can’t excuse the lack of content, we just got back from a two-week trip to the States where, in my capacity as Best Man, I roasted my good buddy Josh and toasted his beautiful bride, Abby (read about Josh and Abby’s trip to visit us here and here).

While we were home, I rediscovered some magical things – burritos, quality customer service and Netflix. We haven’t watched as much TV over the past year as we did over the past two weeks. I became obsessed with the Netflix original series, House of Cards – an amazing drama starring, Kevin Spacey as Frank Underwood, a cagey and politically ambitious congressman who is constantly scheming and conniving to reach the next rung of the political ladder. If Frank Underwood can work through all hours of the night and stay ten moves ahead of his opposition, surely I can bang out a few extra blog posts in the next couple weeks.

We still have tons of travel left to do together – I’ve only written about the very first part of our cruise late last year and so much has happened since. So put on your boating shoes and let’s get going…

When I last left you, we had already visited Rome (here and here) before hitting the Mediterranean Sea for Florence. We spent the next day at sea (which means there is no port and therefore no disembarking the ship), which can often be my favorite time onboard a cruise ship. We tend to pick our cruises based on the ports of call, but I always like to be sure there are two or three sea days allotted in the itinerary. It may sound crazy – but it’s nice to have a day to relax in the middle of it all. Carrying a toddler, stroller, backpack (and sometimes even a wife) across miles and miles of city streets, on and off tour buses and in and out of museums [while rewarding] is a lot of work. To have a day where you cannot do anything other than enjoy your ship’s amenities is a pretty sweet prospect. That, and I like to gamble – sea day’s are the only time you can sit in the casino all day (or as long as your wife can tolerate being left alone with your child).

A dormant volcano visible from the ship while we sailed past Sicily

Apparently, gambling is a part of our blood line - Julia enjoys the Casino as much as I do — Apparently, gambling is a part of our blood line – Julia enjoys the Casino as much as I do

Next, she discovered the blackjack tables - that is definitely my little girl — Next, she discovered the blackjack tables – that is definitely my little girl

The first sea day was also the first “formal night” and so we all three enjoyed an opportunity to get dressed up and go to dinner. I was up a little after a hard day playing blackjack and so I was in high spirits. The delicious prime rib they served helped to keep me and my tummy happy (they even brought it out “bloody and still mooing with a mountain of horseradish”, just like I asked) . After dinner, we took in a very enjoyable show and went to bed content with a day of doing… well, not much of anything.

Julia let me take her for a spin on the dance floor before dinner

The next day we woke up at port in Corfu, Greece. It was drizzling and we had a long day at port in a relatively small city, so we decided we would try to wait out the rain on the ship. We spent the morning participating in some of the cheesy activities organized by the ship’s Cruise Director (imagine a business team building activity). It would have been an uneventful morning if it had not been for a strengthening bond between two little girls who would quickly be known as the fastest of friends onboard Celebrity’s Silhouette. Ava had met Julia in one of the cafe’s the day before and she didn’t hesitate to chat her up on either occasion. She was likely craving companionship of someone close to her own age (Ava is about a year older). The two instantly clicked and after the game, they spent some time dancing, playing and “conversing” (if you can consider each girl stating her independent and random observations a conversation).

We meandered about the ship while we waited for the clouds to disperse

Ava found a new friend in Julia and Julia discovered her new hero

As the girls played, we spent some time getting to know Ava’s parents, Catherine and Jim without realizing that we were making fast friends of our own. After just a few minutes talking with Cat and Jim, we learned that they have a close-knit family too – they were cruising with Jim’s brother, “Uncle” Mike and his wife, Feng as well as the boy’s parents – Bob and Dorothy. The entire family was very pleasant and even though we didn’t realize it at the time, we were forming a relationship with a big family we would “adopt” as our own for the remainder of the cruise. Eventually, the rain let up and we took our leave for Corfu.

Corfu is a Greek Island dating back to 1300 BC when it was first inhabited by the Phaeacians. The history of the island is a story penned by bloody battles and conquests. This is evidenced by the two fortresses that enclose the capital city; two formidable structures standing as pillars of protection against would-be invaders from the sea . Jen and I decided that we were up for a walk and so we strolled from the ship, past the “New” Fortress (Νέο Φρούριο) and into the downtown area. We meandered past ancient churches and charming shops and restaurants when heard a tiny, little voice scream, “Juila”! It was her new friend Ava, who came barreling up and generously gave Julia a big hug and a piece of her bread. We kept hiking past the outskirts of town and into the Old Fortress (Παλαιό Φρούριο) – a citadel that offers the most magnificent panoramic of the ancient city, justifiably deemed a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Strolling through the city streets and taking in the shops

The city streets of ancient Corfu are full of charm

We came across Ava eating lunch with her family

The Old Fortress and church that was built on the grounds for the soldiers

Crossing the drawbridge toward the Old Fortress

The church and Old Fortress high atop the rocks

Jen and Julia stroll across a desolate stretch on their way toward the church

A view of the sea from the fortress walls

From the top of the cliff, we had a great view of the city and our ship

Julia sits along a fortress wall with Corfu in the background

After a pleasant and rewarding day, we concluded our self-guided tour when we missed the last bus back to the ship, thereby closing the loop on our long walk by hustling back to the ship on foot. We were just moments away from getting back on a course of exploration throughout eastern Europe, just as I am back on track blogging. For any other HOC (House of Cards) fans out there, imagine me concluding this post with two quick raps of my class ring on the desk. Frank Underwood would be proud!

Travel - Europe

A Lifelong Dream, Realized At Last!

January 20, 2014 Greg

When you are young, the world is your oyster. You can do anything… be anything. Many kids have grand plans to become a cowboy or a princess or even travel through space and time. Most kid’s plans become a little bit more grounded in “this” world as they get a little older. But that doesn’t mean they can’t still be grand. I specifically remember sitting in my seventh grade Spanish class, penning a list of activities that I absolutely had to do in my lifetime. This list included activities such as climbing Mount Everest, sky diving and hang-gliding, running with the bulls in Pamplona and skiing the Swiss Alps. I think even then, I knew that I would be lucky to complete more than a handful of the activities. The one activity that persisted most in my mind was skiing the Swiss Alps. All throughout high school and college, my friends and I spoke of the day we would make this dream a reality. But after a decade and a half of dreaming, I started to believe that was all it would ever be. Sometimes the real world (jobs, kids, schedules, finances) just get in the way.

The Matterhorn serves as the iconic image of Zermatt

That’s why I was giddy when our friends Matt and Lindsey told us they would be visiting us for New Years. Matt and I devised a plan to go skiing for a couple days while they were here. Matt was tasked with the job of picking a mountain, a job which he took very seriously. With the precision of a surgeon, he dissected the various pros and cons of Europe’s best mountains before narrowing it down to two famous ski locations; Chamonix, France (with Mont Blanc) and Zermatt, Switzerland (with the Matterhorn). We went back and forth for over a week, analyzing the choice ad nauseam. Our analytical brains lead us toward Chamonix for practical reasons such as cost, proximity to Como and hotel availability. I wrote Matt a final email confirming that it was the correct choice “even though skiing the Swiss Alps would have been cool.” Matt surprised me by writing back and telling me that he booked the hotel in Zermatt because my email only confirmed that the emotional part of his brain beat out the analytical part – a decision that I was happy with!

We were all set to depart after lunch on New Years Day. I carefully wound the car along the windy and snowy roads, zigzagging our way through the Swiss Alps before coming upon Zermatt. It was at this point in time Matt decided to inform me that we would have to park the car in a nearby town and take a train in to Zermatt. You see, Zermatt is a town like no other. The streets are made of snow and no outside vehicles are allowed. The town is truly a winter wonderland; high-end shops and expensive restaurants frame the main streets, while charming gingerbread houses line the side streets. We found our hotel, Hotel Blauherd set in a part of town reserved for hotels that fit in perfectly with my vision of an ideal ski town.

Our hotel, Hotel Blauherd

“Our” street with a view of the Matterhorn

A street in the Altstadt (Old Town)

Horse drawn carriages are a classic Zermatt image

Upon checking in, we set out to eat dinner and discovered something along the way. Zermatt is EXPENSIVE! We knew this going in, but I don’t think any of us were quite prepared for just how expensive it really is. For example – we found a place that looked great and so we glanced at the menu. One item in particular stood out – a lamb burger for Fr39 ($43). I’m sorry, but if it has “burger” in the title – I have a hard time paying over $40. Eventually, a problem more pressing than cost presented itself. Availability was the buzz word that became our stumbling block. Every single restaurant was at maximum capacity and we were turned away half a dozen times. We finally found a place that would seat us, a Mexican restaurant that only had one remaining table. Mexican food in a ski town in Europe may seem like a strange choice, but Jen and I were actually excited because it had been over a year since we’d dipped our last nacho. The service was awful, but the food was pretty darn good! And yes, even the Mexican food was outrageously priced ($45 for a single portion of fajitas seemed a bit steep to me).

Zermatt!

The streets of Zermatt are a winter wonderland

Zermatt at night

A view of some of the hotels at town at night

The next morning I was up early and dressed in my ski gear. Matt, Lindsey and I had agreed to hit the mountain just after they opened the lifts. I ate breakfast. I looked at the trail map. I “read” German ski magazines. And I sweated. Then I sweated some more (ski gear is hot when you wear it inside). Finally, Matt and Lindsey came down to breakfast. Then I waited some more. And some more. Eventually, we made our way to the mountain. It turns out a later departure wasn’t such a bad thing after all. Skiing Zermatt is tough work and our legs were wiped out by the end of our day. The skiing was indisputably the best any of us had ever experienced. After a brief lunch at the top of the mountain, the skies cleared up (we had been shrouded in a dense white cloud prior to lunch) and the Matterhorn appeared before us. I was left speechless. We quickly hoped back on our planks to enjoy the rest of our day.

Lindsey, Matt and I pose for a picture before our first run

On the way up in the gondola

Matterhorn “selfie”

“Let’s go skiing!”

We walked out of lunch to this view – the Matterhorn had been completely covered previously

Happy couple

Happy guy!

Jen doesn’t ski much and the elevation would have been too high for Julia, so they stayed in the town. While we enjoying ourselves on the mountain, Jen and Julia were having fun walking around Zermatt. They poked in shops, took in a nice lunch and played in a snow covered playground.

Jen and Julia catch snowflakes

They found a park…

…and played in the snow

As the sun was setting on the mountain’s final runs, we made our way to Zermatt’s most famous après-ski place, Hennu Stall. Après-ski (literally, after skiing) is the act of getting drinks and socializing after a day spent skiing. Europe’s mountains host some of the best après-ski destinations in the world and Zermatt is no exception. We all promised Jen that we wouldn’t be too late for dinner, but we found ourselves among the last patrons left on the mountain. It is important that you don’t stay too late or drink too much at après-ski, regardless of whether or not you have a wife waiting at the base of the mountain. Once the sun sets, the temperature plummets and you still need to have enough wits about you to ski the remaining way down the mountain. We barely escaped before both the temperature and the booze created a problem for us.

Hennu Stall – Zermatt’s best après-ski

Nothing better than a beer after a great day skiing

We were among the last group “parked” in the “lot”

The view of Zermatt from the deck of Hennu Stall

When we regrouped at the hotel, we all got ready for a nice dinner in town. Our group of five strolled along the streets with a very specific plan. We wanted to find a restaurant where we could enjoy something Zermatt is well known for – their fondue! We were worried that max-occupancy would once again be the theme of the night, but Matt became the hero of the group at our first stop. His ability to speak German got us the last table in a charming little restaurant. We eagerly dove into our pot of fondue and reveled in cheesy delight. The fondue set the stage perfectly for the rest of a wonderful meal and Matt and Lindsey surprised us by treating us to this memorable Zermatt meal.

Jen and Julia before our dinner

Our group in front of the restaurant, Zermatterstübli

On the second day, Jen rented a sled for Julia and they spent the day taking turns riding and pulling. For some strange reason Julia seemed to be more interested in pushing and pulling her sled than riding in it. Jen kept commenting to her that she was the only kid in the town pulling her own sled, as opposed to riding in it. It certainly slowed down their progress, which was just fine because we were busy shredding up the mountain on a glorious, clear day.

Julia sleds throughout the streets of Zermatt

Although she was more interested in pulling than sledding

Even up the hills!

A riding on the sled “selfie”

Matt and I stop for a photo before our second day of skiing – Matterhorn in the background

Matt found some deep powder – but not the best way to discover it

“Matterhorn… what, what?!”

Take it up a notch… Matterhorn, goggle-eyed, ski-lift “selfie”

A picture from the highest point of the mountain on our final run – the most amazing run of my life

Jen pulls Julia to the top to sled down the hill

“Here we go!”

I tried to take Julia, but she only wanted to push

She finally let me take her for a spin!

Julia tries to ski, “like daddy”

Lindsey hurt her hand and so of course Julia needed medical attention too

We closed on our final runs of the day and eventually made our way back the car. All of us could not believe how amazing our little vacation had been – the town was perfect and the skiing was amazing. On the car ride home, we talked about our favorite runs until Jen was sick of hearing about them. As we pulled back into Como, I smiled to myself. I had done it. I checked a major item off my bucket list. I skied the Swiss Alps! Now having been refueled, recharged, reenergized and reminded of that once forgotten list… I’ve decided I need to check a few more of those “completed” boxes! Who knows what’s next… I’m definitely thinking “the running of the bulls”- Olé!!

Family Stories, Food and Drink, Holidays, Humor, Markets, Shopping, Sipping Espresso, Travel - Italy

Five Diamond Christmas Tour of Italy

December 23, 2013 Greg

Most people visit Europe in the spring or summer. Of course, these are great times of year to see such a magical and historical place. But may I suggest to you a unique alternative?

Come in December, when the weather is at it’s coldest and the people are their warmest. When the cobblestone streets are strung with lights and the ancient buildings are trimmed with garland. Imagine your most magical place for the holidays – a winter wonderland, if you will. You will be sure to find something that fits your image here in Europe. There are amazing markets and festivals across the continent. Some countries boast cities that are particularly renowned for their holiday cheer. Finland, Germany and Austria are at the top of the list. Denmark and Switzerland are there as well. And of course, our personal favorite place to be for Christmas is right here in Italy. Before you plan your next Christmas vacation, add Europe into the running.

“Boy, Clark – I think we should go to Europe next year”

We had been toying with the idea of visiting another country to experience some of the large and festive Christmas markets (two of the top cities in the running were Cologne, Germany and Lapland, Finland). As we did more and more research, we kept noticing many towns in Italy topping the lists. We decided to stay close to home and shop in a language we know (well, sort of). Jen came across this article describing some of the best Christmas towns in the Trentino Alto-Adige region of Italy. One look at the photos of each town and I was sold. Beyond that, I was eager to explore this region of Italy for it’s unique wines and always breathtaking Dolomiti mountains. So I went to work on google maps and figured out that we could comfortably see five cities (with a bonus sixth on the return) over a period of three days. We would visit Vipiteno, Bressanone, Brunico, Bolzano and Merano with another full day reserved for the region’s capital city, Trento.

When I plotted our course, I literally sketched a rough map on a piece of scratch paper and realized that four of the five towns made a diamond shape. The fifth was sort of floating off to the right side, but for creative purposes – we’ll just stick to the “Five Diamond Christmas Tour”. It has a better ring than “Four Points & That Other One Tour”.

“Sounds great, dad – lets GO!”

We carefully chose our hotel, located just outside of Bolzano. What I didn’t pay much attention to was the name of the actual town, Soprabolzano (literally meaning, above Bolzano). ABOVE Bolzano it was. Our hotel sat roughly 4,100 ft above the town, which gave us two options. Drive up the winding and perilous mountain road or take the 15,000 ft cable car (gondola) ride. I opted to drive, even when the snow fell and the tailgaters lined up behind me.

The view from the road leading to our hotel

We were surprised to learn from Franco and Claudia (Jen’s aunt and uncle) that the area of Italy we were visiting was more Austrian than Italian. They couldn’t have been more correct. We definitely felt as though we were in Austria (which feels just like you’re in Germany). The houses are constructed with charming German architecture (picture gingerbread houses). The food served in the restaurants is German (picture sausages and sauerkraut). The people even spoke German instead of Italian! It was strange to experience, because we were in Italy – but it was also nice because it felt like a more unique “vacation” away from our normal lives. Funny, we were nervous to order pasta for the first time in Italy because we felt like it would be ordering pasta in Germany (something you would never do).

VIPITENO (Sterzing – German)

On the first day of our “Christmas Tour” we drove from our home directly to the northernmost town, Vipiteno. We arrived after lunch and took our time strolling through the market and the charming streets. We were eager to see the setting sun because we knew that meant the Christmas lights would soon be ablaze. We stopped for a vin brulé to warm up and sit for a bit. As opposed to going inside the restaurant, we instead opted to sit outside under the blankets they provided for their guests. It was cozy, fun and comforting. Eventually, we had to tear ourselves away from Vipiteno because we had one more stop on the schedule.

Julia is excited as we enter the market

Jen and Julia hugging

One of the stands, selling a variety of Christmas ornaments

Some beautiful ornaments

Julia sizes up a Befana (Italy’s Christmas Witch)

The charming town square

Another stand selling local specialties

More Christmas stands

My favorite little girl

The lights got a little brighter as it got a little darker

The main street was stunning with a beautiful mountainous backdrop

The main piazza

We stopped to warm up and enjoy some vin brulé

Julia warms her hands on mom’s cup

The sun officially sets

Vipiteno at night

The main square at night

Vipiteno was simply beautiful

BRESSANONE (Brixen)

I almost scratched Bressanone from the list – originally, I didn’t think I could fit all five towns and this was the one that I felt could be sacrificed. We were VERY glad that we kept it in the itinerary. This was arguably one of our favorite towns. We didn’t realize that it is the third largest and and oldest town in the province. Bressanone is absolutely full of charm. Beyond all the Christmas festivities, we enjoyed just walking around the city itself, although most everything had closed by the time we finished dinner.

One street leading to the main piazza

The market in the main piazza

The booths were different than the previous town

Julia rode the carousel in front of the main church

The most crowded and popular stands were always the ones selling vin brulè – they had an outdoor “bar” vibe

Holiday decorations

SAN CANDIDO (Innichen)

Did you catch it? San Candido was not listed as one of the five towns above. Franco and Claudia suggested that we add it to the voyage – they described the town as “piccolo ma bello” (small but beautiful). It was only a half an hour away and snuggled tightly in the Dolomites, so it was a no-brainer for me. They didn’t have nearly the amount of Christmas decorations as the originally planned towns, but it truly was “small but beautiful”. Plus, there are only a handful of towns in the world that are nestled in the Dolomite mountains, so it was certainly worth the extra drive.

Julia and I enter the charming town of San Candido

Our first snow of the season

Julia remembered how much she loved to eat it

Main street in the town

Jen and Julia in the main piazza

“Hey guys, wait for me!”

A small river runs through town

The Dolomites surround the town

Another town we passed on the way out

BRUNICO (Bruneck)

Our second stop of the second day was Brunico. We strolled through the markets and then through the city streets. It was a beautiful town, but the markets were small in comparison to the other towns – so we didn’t spend a tremendous amount of time here.

The market surrounded the outer wall of the main city street

They had some great stands with local food and crafts

As usual, the busiest stands were the ones serving the drinks

I just loved this outdoor sports store’s display

Jen and Julia in the center of Brunico

BOLZANO (Bozen)

We didn’t think that anything could top Bressanone, which we had seen the night before. We were wrong. We arrived in Bolzano after nightfall and our eyes opened wide as we walked into the center square. Of all the towns, this one had the biggest Christmas market by far. They had the most decorations. They had the best rides for kids (a toy train that Julia loved riding). In conclusion, one could say they had the most charm. Beyond the markets, we loved losing ourselves in the city streets, taking in the restaurants and the shops. We had a wonderful dinner and walked some more. It was the perfect end to a fun-filled day.

The markets and main church of Bolzano

Julia goes for a train ride on Santa’s sleigh

For a kid that’s always happy, I’ve never seen her this tickled

We stopped for a little vin brulé

Looks like the Russian hockey team also wanted a little vin brulé to warm up

They had a secret Christmas garden off the main piazza

Family photo in the garden

Vendors and crowds flanked the garden made out of Christmas trees, lights and ornaments

Julia floats through the trees

We just loved the garden

Big ornaments on this street were a nice surprise from the lights that are usually strung across

Angels glide across the rooftops

Sadly, our final day was marred by a heavy rain. Our final two stops, Merano and then Trento (two of the places we were most excited about) were unfortunately, scratched from our trip. We didn’t think it would be nearly as much fun to walk around in the rain. If you do decide to take my “Five Diamond Christmas Tour” – do as I say, not as I do. Stick to my original itinerary (Vipiteno, Bressanone, Brunico, Bolzano, Merano and then Trento) and be sure to check the weather forecast!

Hope you enjoyed – Merry Christmas!

Family Stories, Food and Drink, Holidays, Markets, Sipping Espresso, Travel - Europe

The Christmas Markets of Switzerland

December 22, 2013 Greg

You may have recently read that our Christmas spirit was put into gear when we attended a Milanese festival early in December. We continued our drive toward Santa’s big day by slipping into second gear and crossing the border into neighboring Switzerland. Our Christmas spirit grew as we set out to enjoy one of the things we love most about Europe in December – the Christmas markets.

Christmas trees like this are in cities all over Europe – this is in the main piazza of Lugano, Switzerland

It just so happens that one of our favorite things about living in Italy is access to wonderful markets year round. In the spring and summer, we can stroll the markets to buy fresh vegetables and aged cheese. In the fall, we can purchase delicious homemade jams and carefully crafted grappa. However, the winter markets are undoubtedly our favorite. The backdrop is perfect – streets framed with Christmas lights. Good cheer around every turn. Wonderful food and beautiful artisanal goods at each stand. Beyond that, it is perfectly acceptable to walk around drinking the specialty drink of the season, vin brulé. This cooked wine is seasoned with sugar and spices – designed to warm your hands and belly as well as comfort your soul. No market visit on a cold December day would be complete without a cup (or two).

A few of the vendors set up in the piazza

Soon, I will feature one of our favorite towns to visit during Christmas – our very own Lake Como. Before we do that, I’ll showcase another lake town that we love – Lugano, Switzerland. The Swiss do a lot of things right. They’ve pretty much nailed watches, chocolate and banking. They have some of the worlds most beautiful lakes and best mountains. Beyond that, we have discovered that they play host to some of the world’s greatest Christmas markets.

You can just feel the Christmas spirit walking around

The always beautiful streets are enhanced with thousands of sparkling Christmas lights

Lugano is a beautiful city that sits along a lake with the same name, Lago di Lugano. In one of the world’s wealthy countries – Lugano stands out as one of it’s richest cities. The charming city and popular tourist destination recently garnered worldwide fame, brought on by America’s favorite mega star – Oprah Winfrey. You may recall a tale that spread like wildfire this past summer (well, it did here anyway). Oprah was shopping and asked to see a purse, but was refused because the the clerk (not knowing whom she was serving) told her in no uncertain terms that, “it was out of her price range“. Strange, I was told the same thing when I asked to see the very same purse!

Lights frame the arches of a building’s walkway

Julia and dad in front of the tree

We arrived in Lugano in the afternoon, but stayed long enough to watch the sun set over the mountains. The Christmas lights blazed bright and we felt the joy of the season deep in our cores. We strolled through the market and decided to enjoy a Swiss specialty – hot chocolate. In Italy and in Switzerland, the hot chocolate is very thick – almost syrupy. I’m not usually a fan, but there is a shop in the Lugano’s piazza that makes the drink perfectly (still thick, but not obscenely dense and chocked full of flavor). Of course, you know that you’re in Lugano when you pay roughly $8 for a cup of hot chocolate and another $3 for the extra whipped cream that your daughter insists on ordering.

The sun sets on the mountains behind the lake

The trees are trimmed back during the winter, but that doesn’t mean they can’t use a little seasonal festivity

Miss Julia

The thick hot chocolate of Switzerland

Julia sure seemed to enjoy it

A tight squeeze in the piazza

They don’t have your “mall Santa” here so we had to improvise. We had her tell this Santa what she wanted

We returned home to Italy full of Christmas spirit, eagerly discussing our upcoming tour of Italy’s best markets and towns for the holidays. But before we drove to the Trentino Alto-Adige region of Italy, I had an early present to unwrap. I had to practice my driving on one of Italy’s most renowned race tracks…

Drink in Italy With Us