No, we didn’t oversell it in the title. This meal was
LEGEN…wait for it…DARY!
Like Odysseus who fought heroically in the Trojan war and embarked on a long journey rife with cyclops, lotus-eaters, sea monsters and hostile giants; we too fought our own heroic battle of hunger and embarked on a journey rife with wrong turns, communication challenges, unpaved roads and hostile baby cries. In the end however, it worked out better for us than Odysseus.
We decided to visit the neighboring town of Lecco and grab a bite to eat. When I quickly opened my browser and selected a restaurant from Trip Advisor based solely on someones comment “good food, family friendly” – we had no idea what we were getting ourselves into. We plotted our course in the GPS and set out to eat at Osteria Belvedere Montalbano, a thirty minute-minute drive.
Lecco – a lake town on the east “leg” of Lake Como
A panoramic of the lake that I stitched together – the view on our way to the restaurant
Thirty-five minutes later, we pulled up. To a house. This couldn’t be right. We tried again. Twenty minutes later we ended up in the woods. Hmmm??? Twenty five minutes later we pulled up again. To another house. How many Via (Street) Montalbano’s could there be?! Jen dug a little deeper and translated a few google posts. She discovered that the restaurant is in fact, in the woods. So we were right when we were in the woods??? We tried that route again and hit a dirt path that looked to be traveled only by horses. As frustrated as you are reading this, you can imagine our displeasure. We’d had enough… time to throw in the towel.
As we were heading back down the hill we saw a final beacon of hope. We stopped two bikers and asked about this seemingly nonexistent place. They smiled and said, “turn around and follow us – but the road is pretty treacherous, so take it slow and be careful.” We spent another 15 minutes creeping up that very same dirt path; full of rocks and branches and no leeway on either side. Finally, we arrived and thanked our very kind guides.
Our “guides”
“Follow us, but go slowly”… uhhh yeah, no problem guys!
This was actually the nicer part of the road
Getting a little dicier – hood shown for perspective
“SERIOUSLY?!”
We pulled into the clearing in the woods and soaked up the view of the beautiful lake. The restaurant, a converted home – looked unassuming and inviting. But we were still a bit nervous as we walked up and were instantly relieved when we walked in and found that we had made it to the right place.
Osteria Belvedere Montalbano
As we seated ourselves, we knew we would be in for a treat. Our waiter Fabio, who also doubled as the cook – greeted us warmly and asked if we would like a half bottle or full bottle of wine. We responded that we’d like the half-bottle. He brought a full bottle.
Our host, Fabio
A delicious house wine
He also told us about the menu, which was not your typical explanation of specials and meal descriptions. It was him telling us what we would be eating. We didn’t quite understand, so we nodded politely and got ready to dig in. He started with a pasta dish, conscrigno tagliolini fungi bresaola e` tartufo (air cured beef over thin pasta noodles with mushrooms and truffles).
Primo (first course)
Before we were finished with the first dish, he brought caramelle al ragu` di cinghiale (wild boar ragu with a caramel drizzle).
More pasta as primi
Next was freshly-made raviolini di grano saraceno (hand-made ravioli made with buckwheat).
Third pasta dish
We couldn’t eat another bite. We begged him to stop… but then he described the next dish and we caved. We told him that we had to try it, but we needed to split one portion of the controfiletto con radicchio e gorgonzola (filet over radiccio with a gorgonzola sauce).
Secondo – meat dish
Then we moved onto dessert (delicious gelato) and coffee.
We were the last to leave (from the lunch crowd) and sauntered back to the car with a natural high that lasted all the way home. The road home was a lot more fun… but not nearly as much fun we expect it will be on our way back soon!
The indoor lighting
We were joined by a visitor for part of our meal
The only sign we saw for the restaurant… after we had eaten
I would also be remiss not to mention that when I walked up to pay, I discovered I didn’t have too much cash for this meal that would have to cost a fortune. I was quietly praying they accepted credit cards…until I got the bill. 30 euros for everything! I’d say Osteria Montalbano is the best deal in Lecco – if you can find it!!
What’s a good thing to do on a Sunday? We thought a stroll by the lake might be the perfect activity. Jen’s uncle Franco had been telling us about a lake nearby that is an exact 5k and perfect for walking and stroller pushing because it has a paved walkway.
Lago di Segrino
Jen and I had ventured off on our own half a dozen times this past week trying to find this nearby lake. First, we went to Lago di Alserio, because that was the closest. We discovered a charming new town and another “happy hour” place to try – but alas, the lake was not suited for walking. Next, we tried Lago di Montorfano and found a place to rent boats and a fun-looking beach bar for the summer time. But no walking trail. After a few more failed attempts, we realized that we were never going to find this place on our own, given that this area of Italy is often referred to as the Lake District of Italy. So Sunday morning we asked Franco if he would show us on google maps the location of the map. Instead, he volunteered to join us and personally direct us in the car. And fortunately, Claudia offered to stay home and cook us lunch for our return!
So, off we went… to the correct lake – Lago di Sagrino.
It was a bit colder and even winder than we anticipated originally, so we bundled up tight. Jen snapped a few photos on her iPhone.
Julia bundled up nice and snug
We had a nice walk and enjoyed some nice scenery.
Willows in the wind
Can you see me hidden by that tree?
Julia insisted she get out and join in the fun for a little while too. No free rides for that little girl!
Greg, Julia and Franco
And of course, at the end of your walk or run, you’ll need to stop and have your espresso!
Bar on the lake for snacks and coffee
We found a wonderful new activity – so if you enjoy a nice walk or jog, be sure to bring your sneakers when you come visit!
OK, we realize it’s nearly February and people are more inclined to think about Valentine’s Day than Christmas… but it’s still cold and snowy and hey, who couldn’t use a little holiday cheer any time of year?! So, if you’ll forgive us for posting about Christmas at the end of January, than you’ll certainly excuse the fact that these pictures were taken last year!
Christmas is such a special time in Italy. We didn’t want to miss a posting about this wonderful event and some of the local traditions. When we arrived on January 4th, all the lights and decorations were still present but we didn’t have an opportunity to photograph anything. Therefore, we had to use some from last year’s library.
Lake Como’s Duomo – lit up at night
Starting in early December, you’ll find lights and decorations sprinkled throughout each piazza and cobblestone street you encounter. In front of every church you’ll see a presepio (nativity scene) that is always presented wonderfully and illuminated each night. If you venture into the suburbs (or look up toward the windows in most cities), you’ll see hundreds of little Santas trying to climb their way into someone’s home. And you’re sure to hear “Buon Natale” (Merry Christmas) at every turn.
“Let me in!!”
Of course, Christmas is also on December 25th but the celebrations don’t stop until after La Festa dell’Epifania (The Feast of the Epiphany) when on the Eve of the Epiphany (January 4th) the Befana (witch) delivers candy to all the good children and brings coal to all the naughty children. Wiki Link on the Befana. My intimate knowledge of this subject comes from Julia’s children’s books. Basically, what I’ve learned is that the Befana went to bring the baby Jesus sweets and sweep up his room since his new mother would be exhausted. So now on the Eve of January 4th, she comes and sweeps up little childrens rooms and gives them candy.
A stroll on the streets of Lake Como
The lights on the Duomo in Milan are gorgeous, and we’ve read about other cities that have wonderful presepios or stunning decorations but our absolute favorite is seeing the light display in our own town of Lake Como. Images are cast across buildings, churches and even the streets and municipal buildings.
Some shops in the main piazza
Another angle
We loved the “icicles” hanging off the ledge
The “snow” would cascade down the buildings
Como’s Teatro Sociale
Even the otherwise boring government buildings join the party
“Friends of Como, Merry Christmas”
Another wonderful tradition in Lake Como is the market that assembles for several weeks in the winter months – right in the main square, the Piazza Cavour. Here, you’ll find vendors of meats, cheeses, breads, goods and our personal favorite – vino cotto (cooked wine), which is commonly known as mulled wine.
“Make mine a double please!”
*Now that another year has passed, please enjoy some of our Christmas posts from this past season.
Whoever said the “easy-going” Italy lifestyle is “easy” was pazzo (crazy). Take for example our experience in obtaining cell phones.
We thought it would have been simple. We both have unlocked iPhones that only required a TIM card (the same as a SIM card in the U.S., you just have to slide it in… batta-bing, batta-boom). We had been briefed that there are no cell phone plans; you simply pre-pay for the week, month or year. We had decided to get plans with voice, data and text – just enough to help us find each other if separated and maybe find a good trattoria (restaurant) if we were in a new city.
So one nice day (maybe 3 days into our trip), we decided to walk across the street to the local TIM store. The woman did not speak any English and we didn’t feel comfortable picking a plan blindly. So we did what we always do… we asked Jen’s uncle Franco (who lives upstairs) for his help.
His reaction surprised us a bit – he told us we should not have gone to that TIM store. Why… oh, because it’s mafioso! I kid you not… we are now going to have to consider whether or not to give mafia-runned businesses our patronage. Incidentally, the bakery and restaurant in that strip mall are also mafioso and should be avoided!
We were instructed to go to Como, to a nice reputable TIM shop. So the next day, we packed Julia up and parked in a lot that gave me exactly 1″ clearance on each side of our vehicle. When we walked into the store, we were relieved to discover the young lady spoke a little English (enough to get by). So when we settled on a plan, we prepared to commit to our new plans. Until she asked for our passports. Ohhhhh… we need passports for phones?? Of course we do!
Our reputable TIM Store – Franco Approved!
So, the next day – we tried again, this time with Passports in hand and a plan picked out. So we went to another local TIM store in our favorite grocery store (Bennet). This time, a cranky baby refused to wait the 30 minutes it was taking to help the previous customer and we tabled the task once again. We later discovered that TIM store was ALSO Mafioso and should be avoided too (but the grocery store that it’s in is perfectly fine).
By now, everyone seems a bit shocked that we still don’t have phones – but what more can we do?!! We decided to go back to the Bennet a day or two later (despite the Mafioso tag) and get it done. We waited and waited and waited, but finally found someone that can help us and GOT OUR PHONES ACTIVATED!!
A little bonus… cell phone plans are super cheap! For just six euros a week, we have more than enough voice, data and texting capabilities. Unfortunately the salesman couldn’t explain to us how expensive it was to call the U.S. Judging by his shocked expression and hand gestures, we gathered it is not cheap! Good thing there’s FaceTime!
We knew the deadline was coming for months… January 3rd was staring us in the face for a long time. January 3rd rustled up feelings of excitement (me and Jen), nervousness (Jen…ok, me a little) and stress (mainly me).
It got here before we were ready. We still had a list a mile long on January 2nd and I don’t think either of us were as prepared as we thought to say goodbye to our friends and family. Jen’s girlfriends threw an incredible send-off hosted at Mike and Aubrey Ciatto’s home.
Aubrey and Mike’s beautiful home – nice touch with the flag
And then… all of a sudden, we woke up on January 3rd. We hugged our first set of goodbyes to my parents, Julia’s “Pop-Pop and Grandma” in Darnestown, and got a little misty when my usually stoic parents both shed a couple tears.
Next, we started our entourage-like caravan with Jen’s family and our massive amounts of luggage to Dulles International. Dom had the foresight to make a move that helped with our travel more than he may have known. He flagged down a caddy to assist with our ample amounts of luggage (four massive checked bags, two massive carry-ons, four personal items, a stroller and a car seat). This patient gentleman asked Jen to stand in an unending line, while he escorted me to the front to unload our luggage. He told me to guard my luggage while I waited for Jen to wind her way through the line and meet me so we can check in at our proper place in line.
“Arrivederci“
When no one moved after 15 minutes, it became quickly apparent the flight was delayed. Actually… not delayed. Non-existant. The plane was still grounded in Sweden due to “technical errors” (must have been a new Boeing Dreamliner).
Picture this… Jen is standing in line, behind about 40 very upset, very impatient travelers. I am standing at the front with a mountain of luggage to meet her. After some time, I started to inch my way toward the first class line and acted as if I belonged there. As soon as a spot finally became available, I walked right up and asked about our options. We were put on a flight with a sister airline departing immediately that got us in Milan only three hours behind schedule. I heard a rumor it was one of the last flights of it’s kind and given the fact that they could only help about one person every 20 minutes, I am fairly certain we procured the last three seats on that plane (I know, I should probably feel a little guilty about this… but most of you know me well enough to know that I don’t).
We were escorted to security by Jen’s parents, “Nonno & Nonna” and her sister, “Zia Jess” and the second round of tearful goodbyes commenced. Dom gave us an encouraging look and with the confidence and support of the whole family, we rushed to make our plane.
We touched down on January 4th weary, smelly, hungry, and over-tired. But we were also very excited and thrilled.
We realize this is a very long and detailed post. It is our first on this blog (or any blog), so fear not – I’m sure that due to time constraints and a sheer lack of will power, most future postings will be much shorter. So hang in there and please continue to read about our tales. We hope that blogging about our adventure is as fun for you to read as it will be to write and experience.
