Tag Archives: Humor

Sipping Espresso

My Final Blog Post From Italy

Could that title be any more depressing?  I almost cried just typing it. What happened?!  Our “year-long sabbatical” in Italy came and went in a flash.  But that shouldn’t matter… we extended our overseas adventure another six months. Wasn’t that just a few weeks ago?! How is it that our return airline tickets have today’s date on it? We still haven’t seen the trulli huts in Puglia.  We never got the chance to visit Jen’s nonno’s town in Calabria.  I never proved my “Italianness” by grilling a branzino on our BBQ.  Heck, we never ate at that joint down the road that I’ve always wanted try!

“Get outta here pal, before you try to grill me”!

Truthfully, I have been aware of the impending move back to America and it turns out… I am a guy capable of emotions.  Expressing them is something else altogether; but perhaps I’ll try.  Here it is – I am excited to move home.  I am eager to spend time with my friends and family.  I am anxious to begin working again (and especially eager to earn a paycheck).  I am pleased at the thought of a bit of “normal”.  At the same time I am also exceptionally sad to leave.  I am sorry to abandon our friends and family here in Italy.  I am mournful at the thought of missing the food and wine.  I become melancholy when I think about the mountains and the lakes I won’t see daily. Perhaps most of all, I am heartbroken that I won’t spend every day/all day with Jennifer and Julia and that I’ll never have the same uninterrupted bonding experience with my second daughter (who will be arriving this September).  I’m more mixed up inside than a perfectly stirred risotto.american_italian_roots

Before I continue with this post, I feel that it’s important to comment on the status of the blog.  Sipping Espresso will continue publishing posts about travel, food, and of course, a little more nonsense (at least for a period of time).  In an ideal world, I would have published a post every couple of days and been completely caught-up, allowing for this to be the final post.  Of course, I’m nowhere near finished blogging about our recent adventures.  I have a good twenty posts in the pipeline and I won’t let myself or my three loyal readers down by cutting our stories short.  Sadly, this will be my last post written from the comfort of my “Italian blogging chair”.

I think that the only appropriate content for this final Italian post is to remark on the top ten things that I’ll miss most about Italy.  So without further adieu…

10) “I’m in the mood for a brioche”

We have a pasticceria (pastry shop) right next door.  Literally, right next door.  Many of our guests have enjoyed waking up to a breakfast table full of brioche (the Italian version of croissant).  It’s a major convenience to be able to enjoy fresh-baked goods by merely walking a couple dozen meters…wait, feet.  Gotta remember, I’m moving back to the US.  Jen actually sent me over this morning for a few of the delectable treats.  I will miss being sent on these little errands by my wife so that we may enjoy freshly baked goods for breakfast.nessi_brioches

9) Ding dong does the bell

Like most people, I’m not particularly fond of being woken up prematurely.  But man, do I love hearing church bells any time of day.  Here in Italy, the oversized chimes are in no short supply.  I would venture to guess that we have more Catholic churches than the US has Starbucks… each town has one or more churches.  The spires and bell towers can be seen (and heard) from far away.  I have a feeling the sound of church bells will forever be a sound that will whisk me back to my time here in Italy.  I will miss lying in bed and hearing the church bells early in the morning.

Main church with two bell towers in Agordo, Belluno
Main church with two bell towers in Agordo, Belluno

8) Little shops and friendly merchants

When I lived in the Maryland suburbs, I shopped at the big box stores.  I selected my electronics from Best Buy, picked up my groceries from Whole Foods and chose my clothes in the mall.  When I lived in DC, I still found myself driving into Maryland to do my shopping because it was easier.  In Italy, “supporting your local merchants” isn’t a thing – it’s just what you do.  If you want a good piece of meat, you visit Marco, our butcher.  When Jen sends me to pick up flowers, I see Chiara and let her suggest the correct bouquet for me. I know the baristas in the coffee bars and the panettiere (bakers) in the bread shops.  I will miss knowing my merchants, where my products came from and the conversations we have while exchange goods for money.

Inside our local butcher shop, just down the street
Inside our local butcher shop, just down the street

7) “I could run 5,000 miles and I could run 5,000 more…”

I have been running off and on since high school.  Unfortunately, I’ve never stayed with it beyond the spring/summer season.  But for the entire eighteen months I’ve lived in Italy – I have been running.  I started jogging a one mile lap around our neighborhood, discovered my favorite 5k loop and eventually started building toward regular 10+ mile runs.  I ran in the cold, in the rain, in the snow and also in the best conditions imaginable.  What kept me going all this time? I think it was the feeling I got to be outside, surrounded by nature. On any given day, I would jog past scenery that included villas and castles, lakes and vineyards, animals and tractors and so much more. Since running once again became a part of my life, I would continue logging miles on our road trips, which meant I could explore the trails and scenery from Tuscany to Scotland.  I will miss the feeling I got as air filled my lungs and my feet pounded the pavement, consumed by some of the most beautiful scenery Europe has to offer.

Along one of my favorite running routes
Along one of my favorite running routes

6) A passion for local products

Short of buying New England Clam Chowder or Virginia Ham, most products that you buy in the US seem come from an unknown place. It is almost as if they materialize in your local Walmart from a faceless factory somewhere far away… whether that means food produced “somewhere” in the midwest or clothes produced in another country altogether.  Here in Italy, if you’re buying food – you not only know that it is locally raised and produced, you’ll most likely know the specific town of its origin.  You can choose to consume prosciutto from either Parma or from San Daniele, depending on your preference.  If you want a new suit, you can opt to get something pre-made in Milan with silks from Como or perhaps you want to get a custom suit hand-made in Naples.  I will miss knowing where almost all of my products come from and being able to select which I want based on that information.made-in-italy

5) Salami and prosciutto that cannot be replicated or replaced

You can’t talk about buying local products without expanding on the food itself.  My jaw nearly hit the floor the first time I saw the cured meat section of our grocery store.  Legs of prosciutto that stretched for miles.  A section of the store reserved just for its cured meats (salami, prosciutto, lardo, capicola, bresaola, mortadella, etc.)  that was twice as large as most butcheries in an American grocery store!  And the butchery itself is equally as impressive here.  A massive section of the grocery store reserved for high quality products, from veal to rabbit.  The food in Italy is fresh, delicious and life-changing.  I’m not exaggerating… I know that my palate has forever been altered.  I don’t quite think I’ll reach the level of critique a real Italian can dish out when eating a meal, but I will certainly miss the food (specifically the cured meats) here in Italy.parma

4) “Barolo, Amarone and Brunello…oh my”!

I knew that wine was a large part of the culture before moving here, but I didn’t quite understand its significance to the Italian experience.  Like most things here that are rooted in tradition, winemaking and wine drinking hasn’t changed much in the past few centuries. The perfection that took hundreds of years to develop now yields a harvest that includes access to delicious and affordable wines.  After our first few months here, we had to make the conscious decision to slow down our wine consumption – the internal pressure to try all the Italian wine possible in less than two years would have put me in an early grave.  I will miss the open access to such wonderful wine… and I will certainly miss paying less than €10 for a great bottle.

Vineyards in Emilia-Romana
Vineyards in Emilia-Romagna

3) “Let’s go to… hmm… Tuscany today”!

A few weeks ago, we were on a road trip when I saw the exit for Venice.  We were driving east, toward Trieste and I knew we would be passing nearby Venice – but I hadn’t consulted a map prior to our drive, so I was surprised when I saw signs that told me I was only about 20 km from Venice.  The significance struck me that without even trying, we can stop by many of the world’s most important cities (Venice, Rome, Florence, Milan).  Within a three-hour drive, we can visit the rolling hills of Tuscany, the ample vineyards of Piedmont, or the pristine beaches of the Italian Riviera.  Inside of a four-hour radius, we can find ourselves in France, Switzerland, Austria or Slovenia.  We could literally dine on escargot in Chamonix, France for breakfast, have fondue in Geneva, Switzerland for lunch and eat sausage in Innsbruck, Austria for dinner (if we were crazy enough to do that drive… or eat snails for breakfast, for that matter).  I will miss easy access to the best that Italy has to offer and a gateway to much of the rest of Europe.

Of all Italy's exits to explore, the one on the right seems the most appealing
Of all Italy’s exits to explore, the one on the right seems the most appealing

2) They grow up so fast!

Before you have kids, everyone tells you, “you’ll only know this specific type of joy when you have your own” (of course, they don’t tell you about the late nights and the “time-outs”).  When you do have kids of your own – you finally understand what they mean.  When your kids are young, everyone tells you “you won’t believe how fast they grow up”.  They’re right about that one too.  I blinked and suddenly we were celebrating Julia’s third birthday.  I’m afraid to blink again, because then we’ll be packing her up for college.  One thing that I will forever be thankful for is that I got to spend a full year and a half with my little Julia (and her mother, for that matter).  I didn’t have to go to work for 8-10 hours a day, or miss her while I was on road trips.  I spent every single day, watching her develop.  I got to witness her form her words, first in English and then in Italian.  I got to see her become more adept at using an iPad than her parents.  I got to be her “horsey” and her “best friend”. I got to hold her when she was sad and toss her in the air when she was happy.  I will always miss the uninterrupted time that I got to spend with my daughter, Julia.

Julia sips her espresso when we first arrive and then again a year later
Julia sips her espresso when we first arrive and then again a year later

1) I will miss sipping the espresso with you!

That says it all.  I will miss living our adventures and I will miss sharing them with you.  I am thankful that we had any readers at all and I am glad that we got to share a part of our lives with you.  I made friends and contacts through the blog and I will be forever grateful that I had a place to go and “chat” with people from all over the globe!  Thank you, thank you, thank you!Sipping Espresso Logo

Humor, Just a Little Different Here

Seven Systems Europeans Use That Make More Sense

With World Cup fever heating up, I find myself torn between my two favorite teams – America and Italia.  Thankfully, the teams are not in the same group and so I can root for both squads guilt-free (hopefully all the way to the finals).  As I was comparing and contrasting the strengths and weaknesses of both teams; it occurred to me that perhaps I had stumbled onto something much more important.  I realized that it might be fun to compare America vs. Europe… not just the ability to move the soccer ball around the field, but “bigger picture” things.  What common sense things do Europeans do that Americans fail to recognize?IMAGE

For the purposes of this first post, I will focus solely on the items that appear in the “win” column for Europe.  I will follow-up a little later with another post listing America’s “wins”.  It seemed only fair to publish the posts in this order since Italy logged their first World Cup win before America.

Some background… OK, this piece is not a serious look at which place is “better”.  I’m not weighing in on art & architecture, natural beauty or economic importance.  I’m not comparing the food or the people.  I’m only noting a few of the systems in place that perhaps we would do well to share with one another.  Without further adieu…

1.) Use of the Metric System

Let’s start with an obvious one.  With Europe (and most of the civilized world) using the metric system… it only seems to make sense that America should join the party.  Of course, why should we use such a simple and common-sense system?!  We are ‘merica after all. Land of the free and home of the brave (and sometimes home of the confusing).  Sure… let’s not make 1,000,000 mg = 1,000 grams = 1 kg when we could make 2.2 lbs = 35 oz.  I see the logic there!  There’s a reason that drug dealers have adopted the metric system, people!yNAsr hipster-america-and-the-metric-system because_merica_thats_why_us_flag_poster_large-raad8f53405bb4542ae098d89e2fe581f_8ep1d_8byvr_324

2.) Put Your Pocket Calculator Away

When you’re dining in a restaurant in America, you’ll need to do some mental math when the bill arrives.  Ask yourself if the service was mediocre or exceptional.  Then establish a figure in the range of 15% – 25% that you desire to leave the server.  Do you want to tip on top of the tax and alcohol or remove that portion before you establish a fair gratuity?  Finally, do the math and triple check it – someone’s livelihood depends on your generosity.  In Europe, it’s a bit simpler.  If your bill is €46 – you can leave a €50 and be finished.  Here in northern Italy, tipping even that small amount is the exception, not the rule.  Waiters are paid fair wages and so it’s not necessary to subsidize their income.  I understand the concept of tipping (I worked as a server all through college) but I do often resent paying an extra 20% to the surly server who forgot my ketchup, out of some sense of social obligation or guilt.tip-jar-resize

Boy... that adds up!
Boy… that adds up!

3.) No More Banged Up Shins

It took me some time to get used to the placement of light switches here, but now I’m a full convert to the European system.  In America, the light switch is on the inside of the room, usually next to the door (but not always).  If you’re walking into your own home, it’s no problem.  But if you are entering a foreign space under the cover of darkness, you may hear a “shreeek” from the cat whose tail you just crushed.   In Europe, you don’t have to worry about banging your shins or stepping on Garfield.  The light switches are on the outside of the room.  Simply illuminate your path and… go!

Avoid this by turning on the lights first
Avoid this by turning on the lights first

4.) Operate With Military Efficiency

You’ve never heard a Lieutenant in the Army bark, “get to the mess hall at 6:00… PM”.  They say, “18:00″.  So why does the rest of the American population divide a 24 hour day in half?  I suppose it has something to do with the design of a 12 hour clock, but I do see value in using the 24 hour system.  Admittedly, it takes some getting used to.  After a little while I realized that when Jen asked what time our favorite shows came, I was responding, “21:00″ (9:00pm) in line with the television guide I was consulting.

“I meant clean the latrine by 10:00am… not 10:00pm!”

5.) Baby, it’s Cold Outside

OK, I realize that this is very similar to the first point about the metric system… but some of these things just make sense.  Freezing starts at 0°?  Nah… let’s make it… say, 32º.  Yeah, that seems about right.Fun with Celsius

6.) Eat With Razor Sharp Efficiency

Pick up your fork in your left hand and knife in the right, keeping your fork tongs down.  Cut a piece of meat.  Set your knife down on the plate.  Reverse your fork from your left hand to your right, twisting the tongs up.  Stab your piece of meat once again and put it in your mouth.  Repeat.  Clearly, you’re eating in America (I’m also guessing it’s a 2-3 lb steak).  Here in Europe, this process is altered as follows: pick up your fork and knife keeping the fork tongs down. Cut your meat.  With the piece of meat you just cut on the fork, simply move it directly into your mouth with the tongs still down.  No extra puncturing the meat.  No setting utensils down.  No reversal of hands.  Simply enjoy your food.  Just imagine how many precious seconds of your life you could have been spared if you had been doing this your whole life!

"That American system is far too confusing. I'll just eat like this!"
“That American system is far too confusing. I’ll just eat like this!”

7.) I’ll Be Getting Off On First Floor

If you’re visiting an office on the first floor of a building in America, then you’ll need to ascend to the second level of the edifice, according to the elevator.  So when you ascend one floor from the lobby… you’re on the second level.  Hmm?  So, in America, we really “start” on the 2nd floor.  OK.  I guess.  What if that office is on the sixteenth floor?  Well, then you’ll need to go fourteen levels above the ground, since we don’t “have” a thirteenth floor in most of our buildings.  Wow.  Now I’m lost.  Here in Europe, they keep it simple.  The lobby is 0 and the first floor is… the first floor.

This is so much easier
This is so much easier

These are just a few of the things that seem to make more sense.  Maybe when I move back to America I can start a national trend to change these seven items to the European way of doing things.Sipping Espresso Logo

If you liked this post, check out my lists of observations about more differences between Italy and America.

ALL THINGS ARE A LITTLE DIFFERENT

Part One (January 23, 2013)

Part Two (March 26, 2013)

Part Three (June 19, 2013)

Part Four (March 26, 2014)

Family Stories, Friends, Humor, Markets, Milan, Travel - Italy

Mercatone dell’Antiquariato – Milan’s Outdoor Antique Market

Jennifer and I simply love outdoor markets.  Jen holds on to the belief that she’s going to stumble across a vintage Louis Vuitton handbag or uncover that perfect piece for our future living room.  I’ve got much lower (and more realistic expectations); I’m just thrilled that I get to eat “street food”.  Nothing is better than a porchetta paninio (pork sandwich) from a food vendor with freshly fried zeppole  (Italian donuts) for dessert.  I love sandwiches, I love eating outside and I love feeding my entire family for less than €20!

Pack your bags, let's check out the market!
Pack your bags, let’s check out the market!
All of us at the Fiera
All of us at the Mercatone dell’Antiquariato

Jen has been trying to get to the Mercatone dell’Antiquariato del Naviglio Grande since we moved here nearly a year and a half ago. “What’s the big deal – why is it so hard to make it to a market”, you ask? Well, this particular market only takes place on the last Sunday of each month (except for July).  For those of you that aren’t math wizards, that’s just eleven chances a year to make it to Milan for this 80-year-old Milanese tradition.  Our first attempt was foiled – we set out one day in January of 2013, but got derailed when we couldn’t find parking.  It was ambitious of me to try so soon after moving to Italy – had I known then what I know now, I would have just thrown my car on the curb like the hundreds of other locals.  Instead, we stopped for lunch and found an amazing sandwich place, which I blogged about HERE.  After lunch, we lost the motivation to go back and agreed, “we’ll try again as soon as we get the next opportunity”.  Well, travel and other obligations delayed that opportunity fifteen more months.

Jen's sister Jessica along with Jen and Julia
Jen’s sister Jessica along with Jen and Julia
Matt and Jessica
Matt and Jessica
Another family photo along the
Another family photo along the Alzaia Naviglio Grande

We had been casually referring to the market as “Milan’s Antique Market”.  Certainly, there is some truth in referring to the Mercatone dell’Antiquariato as an antique market, but perhaps flea market is a more apt description.  The products sold range from old shoes to mid-century furniture.  You can acquisition antique coffee makers or art by local artists.  The best part about paying a visit to this unique bazaar is that you’ll never know what you need until you find it.

Tables full of treasure
Tables full of treasure
Some old photography equipment
Some old photography equipment
Loved this old record player
Loved this old record player
Just in case you need some new frames
Just in case you need some new frames
The stores also sell antiques - here is a classic espresso maker once used in a coffee bar
The stores also sell antiques – here is a classic espresso maker once used in a coffee bar

Roughly 380 vendors wind their way up Alzaia Naviglio Grande, placing their backs to the canal.  This trendy neighborhood in Milan features many cafes and bars that call to the younger, artistic crowd. Jen and I had been hoping to get away from the centro (center) of Milan and visit this particular area for some time.  Well, two birds… as they say. As lunch time approached, we picked a great pizzeria in a former factory – the space was as great as the food.  If you find yourself in Milan near the last weekend of the month, be sure to carve out some time for the Mercatone dell’Antiquariato.

Vendors display along the canal
Vendors display along the canal
The neighborhood is full of artists
The neighborhood is full of artists and street art

INFORMATION

WHAT »    Mercatone dell’Antiquariato del Naviglio Grande
WHEN »   Last Sunday of every month (except July)
WHERE » Milan
ADDRESS »
Strada Alzaia Naviglio Grande, via Valenza, South
TRANSPORT »
Metro Porta Genova/bus 59, 74, 169
Tram 2, 3, 9, 14, 15, 29, 30Sipping Espresso Logo

Castles, Food, Humor, Restaurants, Travel - Italy, Tuscany

You “Massa” Check Out This City (Massa, Italy)

Man, do I love the bad puns in my titles or what?  Probably about as much as I love posing rhetorical questions to my readers…hercules__bad_puns_by_masterof4elements-d75obi2

Roughly twelve days ago, I was as proud of myself as Arvind Mahankali when he successfully spelled knaidel to beat Pranav Sivakumar and secure the championship title during the 86th Scripps National Spelling Bee (apparently, this particular Indian-American knows a thing or two about Jewish comfort food).  Why was I so pleased with myself, you ask?  Well, I thought that I had finally caught up with our stories on the blog.  And then a whirlwind of activity commenced in a flash as Jen’s sister arrived for a visit with her boyfriend.  We had such a nice time traveling and eating with them (really, is there anything else you would want to do in Italy?) that now I have a ton more to write about.  Additionally, we left them to their own devices while we embarked on a rewarding road-trip, which I cannot wait to tell you about.  So, now once again –  I am behind the times again faster than you can spell prosciutto.

An accurate portrayal of me as I struggle to keep up with the blog
An accurate portrayal of me as I struggle to keep up with the blog

When I was looking ahead toward the next 5-8 posts, I realized that I would be remiss not to step back and mention our visits to Pisa and then Massa in northern Tuscany.  When I last wrote, I detailed our trip to Lucca (HERE).  During the drive home we detoured to marvel at the Torre pendente di Pisa (Leaning Tower of Pisa) before getting back on the road.  We hadn’t traveled too much further when our perfectly timed Italian stomachs told us it was time for lunch (at first I thought our three stomachs growling in unison was a tractor-trailer honking furiously at me).  I was more in the mood for a leisurely lunch than a quick stop at an AutoGrill (picture a rest-stop along the NJ Turnpike with better food and espresso).  I turned to my trusty “TripAdvisor” cell phone app and searched for a restaurant near us.  I discovered Il Fatty (yeah… you guessed the translation; The Fatty) in the city we were approaching.  With a name like, “the fatty” – how could you go wrong?!  I took the exit toward Massa and headed into the center of town.

Leaning Tower of Pisa
Torre pendente di Pisa – Leaning Tower of Pisa
Julia strikes a pose
Julia strikes a pose
Work on the tower began in 1173 and took 199 years to complete
Work on the tower began in 1173 and took 199 years to complete
Julia photographs me in front of the tower
Julia photographs me in front of the tower
Battistero di San Giovanni (Pisa Baptistry) and Primatial (Pisa Cathedral)
Battistero di San Giovanni (Pisa Baptistry) and Primatial (Pisa Cathedral)

You may not have heard of Massa (we hadn’t), but if you’re a fan of interior design, than you’ve definitely heard of the province in which Massa is located, Carrara.  Carrara marble is the fashionable stone of choice for kitchens counters the world over.  The stone has been mined in this area for centuries (Carrara marble has been used since Ancient Rome).  Upon exiting the highway, my mind was set only on lunch with no expectation of discovering any real beauty; the area is heavily industrialized.  Like a naval shipyard or factory park, the landscape is blanketed with large machinery, billowing factories and tractor trailers transporting thousands of pounds worth of the white stone.

Panorama Massa Italy
Massa and Carrara are sister cities in the Province of Carrara

However, we were surprised when we got away from the mining equipment and approached the center of town.  The city itself was clean and beautiful.  It became obvious that Massa has prospered as a result of the local product.  The town is well designed and perfectly maintained.  Even the street curbs and park benches are made of Carrara marble!  After a delicious lunch at Il Fatty we wanted to discover what the city had to offer.  There seemed to be a surprise around every turn.  We found orange trees and large piazze (town squares), ancient buildings and ample shopping.  We were pleasantly surprised to see how much is available to tourists, although the place is happily devoid of the map-reading, fanny-pack wearing, crowd-shoving sightseers (by the way, I’m not casting stones; that is usually us in a nutshell, less the fanny-pack).

The
Il Fatty’s “signature” sandwich – Panino Lamprodotto
Panino salsiccia e rapini
Panino salsiccia e rapini
Homemade torta di riso, proudly made by the owner's son, Alessandro
Homemade torta di riso, proudly made by the owner’s son, Alessandro
The interior piazza
The interior piazza
Some of the colorful buildings of Massa
Some of the colorful buildings of Massa
Great statue in the center of the main piazza
Great statue in the center of the main piazza
Government building in the main piazza
Government building in the main piazza
There were orange trees everywhere
There were orange trees everywhere

There is even a wonderful 15th century castle perched high above the town.  We took the narrow and windy drive up the hill, only to discover the castle was closed for repair.  Oh well, I was able to get a couple beautiful panoramic’s of the city and neighboring sea.

Massa on the road to Malaspina Castle
Massa on the road to Malaspina Castle
View of Massa from above
View of Massa from above
The position of the city is well situated between the coast and the mountains
The position of the city is well situated between the coast and the mountains

If I can borrow a page from the Michelin Star guide-book, I would rank Massa with a full star (out of three).  One star denotes a very nice place worthy of a visit (but not a place to go far out of your way to see).  If you do visit, tell Alessandro at Il Fatty that we said hello. However, be weary of his suggestion to try the local favorite, Panino Lamprodotto.  It’s basically just tripe (cows stomach) on a bun – not my favorite Italian food.  Of course, I would be lying if I told you I left a single bite behind.

Friends, History, Humor, Photography, Travel - Italy, Tuscany

“Lucca Over Here… This Tuscan Town is Amazing”!

If you read the title of this post with your best impression of an Italian accent, then you probably nailed the pronunciation of one of our new favorite Italian towns.  Lucca has been on our bucket list to visit for quite some time and now we can happily say we’ve been.

Lucca, Italy
Lucca, Italy viewed from the Torre Guinigi
Torre Guinigi - Lucca
Another angle from Torre Guinigi
Lucca viewed from the city walls
Lucca viewed from the city walls

The city is renowned for many things, not the least of which is the giant annual gathering of comic book nerds and fantasy film geeks. Lucca plays host to Europe’s version of Comic-Con, the Fiera Internazionale del Fumetto (International Festival of Comics) or as it’s commonly referred – Lucca Comics and Games.
lucca_comics_and_games_2013-questione-di-stile

Some participants of Lucca Comics. Photo courtesy of Francesco Petrucci
Some participants of Lucca Comics and Games. Photo courtesy of Francesco Petrucci

For those of us that don’t have any desire to put on a Superman costume (yes, I’m just enough of a geek to know the term cosplay), there is more than enough to do in Lucca, which I will detail below.  Thanks very much to some free press bestowed on me by Italia Living, I have recently picked up a few new readers (benvenuto a Sipping Espresso)  and so I’m going to treat this post a little differently than in the past. As opposed to running through our little vacation part by part, instead I will opt to go a bit more “mainstream” and simply highlight the featured attractions of the city.  Of course, I haven’t boiled it down to a “Top 10 Things To Do In Lucca” just yet.  I like to hear myself talk far too much!

Piazza del Giglio near our hotel
Piazza del Giglio near our hotel

During Medieval and Roman times, it was quite common to fortify entire cities behind massive protective walls.  Today, Lucca is a preeminent example of such fortification and one of the few cities left in Italy with her ancient walls fully intact.  It is a wonderful experience to drive your car through the same gate that was quite possibly used by Julius Caesar himself.  Of course, in this scenario,  I’m simply the chauffeur and my own little Julia is the royalty riding in the back of the chariot.  Even though I can’t positively date the existing walls as far back as Caesar, I can place him in Lucca for the well documented Lucca Conference, along with Pompey and Crassus in 56 BC.  The origin of the city itself date back as far as 180 BC.  Eventually Lucca rose in importance to the Roman empire and achieved immense wealth and status in the 11th century, thanks to the silk trade.  The result of this wealth is evident today; the city is very well maintained. Nearly every street features an ancient church boasting a façade clad with expensive marble.  Well designed piazzas are now the gathering places for tourists, street performers and restauranteurs.  Streets lined with charming shops and wonderful cafes full of patrons keep the vibe of the city humming well into the night.

Walls of Lucca
The ancient walls completely enclose the city
You can find many fine example of sculpture and statues along the top of the walls
You can find many fine examples of sculpture and statues along the top of the walls
The walls are wide enough for cars to pass along the top, but it is solely pedestrian
The walls are wide enough for cars to pass along the top, but it is solely pedestrian
Churches of Lucca
One of the many churches that can be found on nearly every corner in the city

Our reason for being in Lucca was to visit our good friend, Beth (although here she goes by, Elizabeth which is better understood in Italian). We had an amazing time when we stayed at her home in Tuscany last year, which I wrote about HERE and HERE.  She hosted us once again, but this time it was in the Bed & Breakfast she recently purchased, Le Violette.  The place matches her personality perfectly; warm and inviting with an extra pinch of charm.  I’ll write a full review of her B&B in an upcoming post.  After we unloaded our bags in the room, Beth started our tour of the city beginning with the walls, which were widened centuries ago.  In fact, not that long ago they used the walls for racing cars.  Today, they are purely pedestrian.

Lucca Walls
View of the main bell tower of Lucca from on top of the walls
Lucca Walls
We made our way to the walls several times throughout our trip
Lucca Walls
Julia wanted to walk on her own
Lucca Walls
Jen and Julia stop for a photo on the wall

We hopped off the walls and strolled through the city, enjoying Lucca as only a pedestrian can.

Via del Fosso has a canal running through the center
Via del Fosso has a canal running through the center
Via Cenami is one of the main shopping streets
Via Cenami is one of the main shopping streets
Beth helps Julia take a drink of water
Beth helps Julia take a drink of water
Piazza San Francesco
Julia takes a picture with me in Piazza San Francesco
The old market building where vendors would set up
The old market building where vendors would set up their stalls

Most Italian cities feature outdoor markets one-two times a week. We made our way to one of the fabulous Lucca mercato (market), which is held every Wednesday and Saturday.

Lucca Walls
Vendors set up for the market twice a week
We discovered that we accidentally strolled outside the walls by following the long line of vendors
We discovered that we accidentally strolled outside the walls by following the long line of vendors
Beautiful flowers are just one of the many things you could buy
Beautiful flowers are just one of the many things you could buy in the market
Lucca markets
I catch Jen for a photo in the market
Markets Italy Lucca
The markets can get crowded but they are a great place to pick up a picnic lunch

While in Lucca, you will want to position yourself in a vantage point that will command a view of the entire city, valley and mountains. You can choose to scale the Torre delle Ore (Clock Tower) or the Torre Guinigi (Guinigi Tower).  We opted for the later, because it is the only tower in the city that has trees planted on top.  But the ascent is not for the faint of heart; it’s a steep 230 steps until you get to the top. Compared to other similar towers, I found the €6 entry fee a bit steep, considering you don’t get anything other than the view (many similar sites also feature other historical items – this was purely just the tower).  I quickly reversed my position on the fee when I actually took in the view.  Breathtaking might be an appropriate word to describe the panorama.

Torre Guinigi steps
The final staircase ascending toward the top of the tower (shooting from below, looking up)
I lost my cool when I thought this was the top and I would have to view through a cage - when I cooled down, I realized there was a door and simply pushed on
I lost my cool when I thought this was the top and I would have to view the city through a cage.  When I calmed down, I realized there was a door and simply pushed on
View
View of the city with the prominent Cattedrale di San Martino in view
Lucca, Italy
More of the city and Torre dell Ore (clock tower)
View
Lucca is a beautiful city set with a backdrop of luscious green mountains
View
Panoramica da Torre Guinigi – I just noticed that almost this exact shot is in the Lucca city guide
Students in Lucca
I noticed a few groups of school children; Lucca is a popular destination for Italians

You will certainly want to pay a visit the Piazza dell’Anfiteatro, a Roman amphitheater that has been reconstructed into a piazza compete with charming shops and cafes.  We sat and enjoyed a few drinks while Julia enjoyed running around with Beth’s son, Indi.

Lucca Amphitheater
Panoramic of the Piazza inside the amphitheater
Lucca Amphitheater
Julia and Indi play inside the Piazza Anfiteatro
Lucca Amphitheater
Julia loves chasing pigeons!
Outside the Lucca Amphitheater you can see the remains of the original Roman structure
Outside the Lucca Amphitheater you can see the remains of the original Roman structure

Of course, no trip to Lucca would be complete without a visit to the Piazza San Michele and a tour through the Chiesa di San Michele in Foro.

Chiesa di San Michele
Chiesa (church) di San Michele
Chiesa di San Michele
The Romanesque architecture is clearly demonstrated in the façade, which was built in the 13th century
Chiesa di San Michele
The wealth of Lucca is demonstrated by their larger churches
Piazza San Michele
The piazza hosts some performers that loved playing American 90’s rock (primarily Nirvana)
Piazza San Michele
Julia can’t hear the words of Kurt Cobain without being moved to tip
Piazza
Jen and Julia in Piazza San Michele
Piazza
Julia pushes Beth’s son, Indi across the piazza
Piazza
Playing in the piazza
Chiesa di San Michele at night
Chiesa di San Michele at night

I hope you enjoyed our tour through Lucca together and consider adding it as your next Italian destination.  Below are a couple more pictures to temp you even further…

Buccellatio di Lucca
Buccellatio di Lucca is a typical bread that is eaten year round
Streets of Lucca
We constantly commented on how clean and well maintained the city is
Gelato in Lucca
Julia enjoys some gelato after dinner one night
“Come along for an upcoming post all about a couple restaurants in Lucca!”

Ci vediamo a presto (I’ll see you soon)!

Family Stories, Festivals, Food and Drink, Lombardia, Markets, Travel - Italy, Wine

Wine in the Springtime

Who doesn’t love a good festival?  The combination of food, games and fun in an outdoor setting is always guaranteed to be a success.  I mean, what more could you ask for?  But if the name of the festival is Primavera dei Vini (Wine in the Springtime) and the location is in the remote Italian countryside – then you’ve got all the ingredients you need and more!

Vineyards of Rovescala
Vineyards of Rovescala along our drive into town
The farmers have been producing wine for over 800 years
The farmers have been producing Bonarda wine for over 800 years

If you check Wikipedia to learn about Rovescala, you will discover that this small commune (municipality) is located about 50km southeast of  Milan.  Aaaaand… basta (stop).  That’s it.  If you research the festival itself, you’re likely to uncover only two or three short blog posts about it, aaaaaand… basta!  So this event is a relatively unknown festival in a small, remote Italian town – why on earth would anyone be interested in going?!  Because it’s a relatively unknown festival in a small and remote Italian town, of course!  In our experience, these are usually the best gatherings – genuine and unpretentious, just as it should be in Italy.

I was loving the group of Harley riders that rolled into town
I was loving the group of Harley riders that rolled into town
Of course, what Italian festival is complete with a collection of Vespa's?!
Of course, what Italian festival is complete with a collection of Vespa’s?!

Jen and Julia in Rovescala
Jen and Julia in Rovescala

Every Sunday in March, the residents of Rovescala pull together for the festival meant to celebrate the approaching spring with open air markets, parades, music and games.  Of course, what Italian festival would be complete without food and wine as the central theme to the day?  With the largest two spaces in town dedicated to either food or wine, you are guaranteed that something delicious will pass your palate.  They also had plenty to do for the kids.

They had a face painter for the kids, free of charge - she wouldn't even take a tip
They had a face painter for the kids, free of charge – she wouldn’t even take a tip
Of course, Julia wanted to be a Tiger
Of course, Julia wanted to be a tiger
She proved how scary she was with a growl and scratch with her claw
She proved how scary she was with a growl and scratch with her claw
Jen and her baby Tiger
Jen and her baby tiger

I couldn’t uncover a specific reason for the festival, which is close to approaching its 30th year (many such events are held in the honor of a specific saint or battle or historical element).  It is my suspicion that the collections of farmers producing a wonderful and relatively unknown wine worked with the local comune (municipal office) to promote their regional product and boost tourism.  While the festival does not pull a large contingent of international visitors, each Sunday in March the town swells to capacity with other Italians living nearby.

The town fills up each Sunday in March
The town fills up each Sunday in March

Like so many things Italian, the hills surrounding Rovescala are rooted in a tradition that stretches back over eight centuries.  The grapes grown for the production of the local Bonarda wines are of a seldom seen variety; the Croatina grape, which is then typically blended with the Barbera grape to make the wine.  You won’t discover a finer example of Bonarda wine (not to be confused with the Bonarda Piemontese vine) then you will here in the foothills of the Apennines mountains in our hometown region of Lombardia (Lombardy).  This wine website describes the grape,

The mid- to late-ripening grape delivers wines with dark color, gushing fruit, low acidity and soft tannins, often resembling montepulciano or dolcetto in expression.

Before we could get to all the wine tasting, we wanted to fill our stomachs with some food.  We discovered that the main pavilion had open table dining, where “neighbors” become friends.  In fact, our neighbors were happy to share some of their frog legs with both me and Julia when I asked about them.  To say the dining was “organized chaos” is an understatement.  But the delicious food, fun neighbors, guitar player and cheap wine (I got a full glass for €1) more than made up for it!  The authenticity of the experience was definitely one of these “this is why we moved to Italy” moments.

Inside the pavilion for food - good luck finding a table, we waited about 20 minutes for space
Inside the pavilion for food – good luck finding a table, we waited about 20 minutes for space
We were thrilled when we finally claimed our spot
We were thrilled when we finally claimed our spot
We lucked out with some great neighbors who were a lot of fun
We lucked out with some great neighbors who were a lot of fun
It was great listening to this guy playing and singing at the next table
It was great listening to this guy playing and singing at the next table

After lunch, we strolled past the outdoor vendors displaying their hand crafted goods – anything from homemade grappa to artisanal wooden bowls.  We made our way to the main hall where the farmers were eager to showcase their wines.  A modest €5 bought me an empty wine glass complete with a nifty case that allowed me to dangle the container from my neck (you know, in case I needed both hands to have a conversation like a true Italian – picture a lot of hand gestures).  We befriended, Alessandro Dellafiore – the President of the Pro Loco Rovescala a local organization designed to promote local products.  He explained that as long as I didn’t leave the building, I could re-fill my glass any number of times and try as many different wines as my little heart desired.  “Jen, buckle up and get comfortable – we’re going to be here a while!“

Merchants sold all type of hand crafted goods
Merchants sold all type of hand crafted goods
Inside the wine hall - they Julia a wine necklace so she could join in the fun
Inside the wine hall Alessandro gave Julia a wine necklace so she could join in the fun
Julia carefully helps me select my favorite wine
Julia carefully helps me select my favorite wine

After I had enough liquid courage, I decided that I needed to demonstrate my manliness.  I can think of no better way to peacock than to climb a telephone pole in order to slap a leg of prosciutto!  I was in luck, as that option was readily available to the brave few willing to try.  I waited and watched a half a dozen guys and gals try and fail to reach the top.  While I was in line, a kid roughly fifteen years old made it to the top.  His effort was rewarded with a bottle of wine.  I grinned in admiration of the culture that rewards their youth with a bottle of wine.  When it was my turn, I strutted to the pole as if I was Michael Jordan saddling up to the free throw line.  I knew it would be no problem to practically fly to the top.  That is, until I made my first upward thrust and realized my dress shoes were a major detriment.  I nearly slipped coming right out of the gate, but I recovered and found my grove.  I made it to the top of the pole in record time and was the only person to receive a large cheer from the crowd and two bottles of wine for my speed (and a bit of showmanship).  After I came down, I was pleased to have earned a big hug from Julia in addition to my liquid prize.

I get strapped in for my long climb
I get strapped in for my long climb
It may not have been graceful, but I was the fastest climber of the day
It may not have been graceful, but I was the fastest climber of the day
Julia cheers me on - just the encouragement I needed
Julia cheers me on – just the encouragement I needed
At last! I made it to the top and slapped that prosciutto like I've never slapped a prosciutto before!
At last! I made it to the top and slapped that prosciutto like I’ve never slapped a prosciutto before!
Julia ran up and gave me a big hug - that was the best prize
Julia ran up and gave me a big hug – that was the best prize
Of course, a couple bottle of wine isn't too shabby either
Of course, a couple bottles of wine isn’t too shabby either
Julia wanted to have a go
Julia wanted to have a go
She did pretty well - she won a generous bag of candy
She did pretty well – she won a generous bag of candy
Here we are showing off our prizes
Here we are showing off our prizes
After the participants all volunteered, the pros took over
After the participants all volunteered, the pros took over
They made it look easy!
They made it look easy!

We wrapped the day with a little more walking and shopping (we went back to buy some wine as gifts and to add to our cellar).  Julia stopped to take a seat and “chat” with some locals in front of their home – I suppose she wanted to practice the Italian art of dolce far niente (the sweetness of doing nothing).  All in all – it was a fun day and well worth the time in the car.

Julia is an expert at
Julia is an expert at “dolce far niente” (the sweetness of doing nothing)
Our collection of
Our collection of “fair booty”
Cruises, Travel - Italy, UNESCO, Venice, Wine

Venice, Italy – Alfred Hitchcock’s Inspiration

Have you ever wanted to sound like the world’s biggest a-hole and  alienate multiple friends, all in one fell swoop?  If so, pay close attention and do exactly as I say.  Kind of roll your eyes a little bit in an exaggerated act of annoyance and say the following words with the smug impatience of someone who thinks they’re as classy as Ivanka Trump (but really only has as much class as her father, ‘The’ Donald).  Repeat after me:

“Ugh.  We have to go to Venice… again?!  Bleeeehh.”

Do that, and you are sure to land on the top of most people’s sh*t list!  At the risk of losing blog readers, friends and maybe even a few family members… that is exactly how we felt recently when we went back to Venice.  I can fully appreciate this is a ridiculous thought to have and even more obnoxious to share… but hey, this is a blog that delivers brutal honesty.  When we booked our cruise with Celebrity Cruises a little while back, we did it despite the fact that the ship spent two days at port in Venice.  Don’t get me wrong, Venice is a beautiful city with a unique charm found nowhere else in the world. If you’ve visited Venice before, you may reminisce about the romantic gondola rides, the charming cafes and the stunning churches.  But when you’ve faced with a visit to Venice for the fifth time, you are more likely reminded of the crowded piazzas, overprices restaurants and long lines full of pushy tourists.

See,
See… “First World Problems Girl” gets it!

Venezia (Venice) has an alluring history that I find to be more fascinating than nearly any other city in the world.  I mean, the entire city has been floating on water for centuries, for Pete-sake!  I detail a brief explanation  of how Venice came to be in this blog post (definitely worth a quick read).

Doge's Palace with San Marco Campanile in the background
Doge’s Palace with San Marco Campanile in the background
The Lion of San Marco perches atop a tall pillar outside of the piazza
The Lion of San Marco perches atop a tall pillar outside of the piazza

Even though we weren’t very excited at the prospect of squaring off against millions of other tourists in a space not much larger than the Mall of America, we abandoned our original plans to stay on the ship and instead ventured onto Venice’s shores.  We were sure glad that we did!  Over the next two days we rediscovered a new Venice; one with more magic and charm than we ever realized was possible.  What’s the difference, you ask?  We were walking around in the off-season.

Our cruise ship sailed in just as the sun was rising
Our cruise ship sailed in just as the sun was rising
The early morning light cast over the city of Venice is a stunning sight
The early morning light cast over the city of Venice is a stunning sight

The weather was cold and the droves of tourists were nowhere in sight. We were able to deftly weave betwixt the shops, restaurants, churches and museums with ease.  The horrid memory of sweating in lines and pushing through crowds became a thing of the past. Strolling down streets and visiting historical sites became pleasant and stress-free.  We fell in love with the city all over again.  It was as if we had undergone marriage counseling with Venezia and came out stronger and more in love than ever before.

Gondolas on the water
Gondolas on the water
San Giorgio Maggiore Church
San Giorgio Maggiore Church
Doge's Palace
Doge’s Palace

In the past, we had rushed from attraction to attraction, trying to “pack it all in”.  Of course, this is impossible to do – the city boasts art and architecture in abundance.  Combined with the heat and the dense crowds of the past, we have enjoyed Venice – but haven’t been in love with the city since our magical first visit.  This time, it was completely different.  Since we didn’t feel any pressure to see the main sites – we decided to take it slowly and just be in the moment. Our second day was even better when we opted only to see the attractions on the second and third pages of most guide books.

We were lucky to have such a beautiful day - spectacular weather
We were lucky to have such a beautiful day – spectacular weather

First, we spent a bit of time walking through the winding and narrow streets.  Our goal was simple – to stay away from the main square, Piazza San Marco as long as we could, fearing the worst (we still didn’t know just how “wide open” the city had become).  We stopped for a quick sandwich around 10:30am because Julia was hungry.  We found a great little wine bar, far from the main “touristy” areas.  We discovered locals coming in and enjoying glasses of wine at the bar.  I thought…“well, why not?!”  If the locals can enjoy a mid-morning wine and Julia can enjoy a mid-morning salami sandwich, why shouldn’t I join in the fun?  I ordered a nice Valpolicella Ripasso – a wonderful wine local to the region.  I got a nice big pour for €4.  “Wait, so if you don’t crowd into the main spots – food and drink are priced reasonably?!” 

A gondolier takes a break to feed his friends
A gondolier takes a break to feed his friends
His craft was parked nearby awaiting a fare
His craft was parked nearby awaiting a fare
The canals are always beautiful - any time of day
The canals are always beautiful – any time of day
We started to discover just how empty the city was
We started to discover just how empty the city was
Julia insisted on stopping for a mid-morning salami sandwich
Julia insisted on stopping for a mid-morning salami sandwich
Jen and I stop for a photo on Ponte di Rialto (Rialto Bridge)
Jen and I stop for a photo on Ponte di Rialto (Rialto Bridge)
It was chilly, so we warmed up with some vin brulé
It was chilly, so we warmed up with some vin brulé

Eventually, we did wind our way into Piazza San Marco and found that our pleasant morning was a precursor to a pleasant afternoon.  I have never seen the square so wide open.  We walked right into Basilica di San Marco – something I thought was impossible without waiting for at least an hour or two!  We took in the rest of the sites, including the Procuratie Vecchie, Campanile, Loggetta and Torre dell’Orologio.  But the absolute peak of the day was when we fed the birds.  We had a blast watching Julia get swarmed by dozens of pigeons.  A highlight of the entire cruise, for sure!  I can’t confirm any truth to the rumors that these pigeons inspired Alfred Hitchcock’s film, The Birds (mainly because I just started that rumor to suit this post’s title) – but being swarmed by dozens of these winged beggars felt like we were on the set of the movie itself.

Ponte dei Sospiri (Bridge of Sighs) is usually tougher to photograph with tourists pushing for position
Ponte dei Sospiri (Bridge of Sighs) is usually tougher to photograph with tourists pushing for position
I LOVED this guys photography pose
I LOVED this guys photography pose
You've got to remain in a stylish pose while you check your work
You’ve got to remain in a stylish pose while you check your work
Jen and I pose in front of the Canale Della Giudecca
Jen and I pose in front of the Canale Della Giudecca
We were able to stroll right in to Basilica San Marco
We were able to stroll right in to Basilica San Marco
Julia lights a candle and says a little prayer
Julia lights a candle and says a little prayer
Jen and Julia in Piazza San Marco
Jen and Julia in Piazza San Marco
Julia loved being in the wide open piazza
Julia loved being in the wide open piazza
She took time to explore on her own
She took time to explore on her own
Once again, she was a hit with other tourists who wanted to take photos with her
Once again, she was a hit with other tourists who wanted to take photos with her
She decided to start feeding the birds
She decided to start feeding the birds
“Whoa! Mom..Dad – I got one!”
I showed her how to get more than one bird
I showed her how to get more than one bird
Which worked out better than expected... that's Julia hidden behind a wall of birds
Which worked out better than expected… that’s Julia hidden behind a wall of birds
That was about the same reaction that Julia had
That was about the same reaction that Julia had

Buckle up, because our next stop is our second day in Venice.  I think I’ll call it “Venice Like You’ve Never Seen Before”.  We rise early to visit the fish market as well as the islands of Murano for a glass blowing demonstration, tour the painted houses of Burano and round out our visit with the ancient church on Torcello.  Most people forget, Venice has more to share than just the main island!

An older building shows a unique beauty that only Venice can provide
An older building shows a unique beauty that only Venice can provide
We returned to our ship as a beautiful sun was setting on the Grand Canal
We returned to our ship as a beautiful sun was setting on the Grand Canal
Humor, Just a Little Different Here, Restaurants, Shopping

Things Are Just a Little Different… Part IV

If you’ve been a loyal reader of this blog or have spent a little time playing around on the pages, you’ll see that I’ve started a “series” that highlights some of the differences between Italy and our native America.  Some of the differences are strange to us, many of them make perfect sense and others are just plain silly.  If you’d like to see where the series began, take a look back here:

Part I
Part II
Part III

Just like the previous editions, I will group these differences by category.  Without further adieu, Parte Quattro (Part Four)…

♠♣♥♦     ♠♣♥♦     ♠♣♥♦

CARS

The automotive industry in Italy is one of the major contributors to the country’s GDP.  The industry provides nearly a quarter million jobs and produces some of the world’s best cars.  But it’s not just Ferrari’s and Lamborghini’s on the roads here.  We have also learned a couple other things about the automobiles on the road.

Where are the trucks?  A Texan might have a harder time adjusting here than we did.  Finding a pickup truck is akin to finding the perfect blue-ribbon bull at the county fair (did I take the Texas thing too far?).  There are virtually no trucks on the road and I can count the number of large pickups I’ve seen on one hand.  If you do come across a pickup truck, there is a 90% chance that it is for work-purposes only.  No major commentary here, just an observation.

This little guy is about all the truck you're going to get around here
This little guy is about all the truck you’re going to get around here

You’d better not buy the Big Gulp!  At least not if you want to rest it in your car while you drive… most cars don’t have cup holders. This may seem strange to most Americans (certainly, there are times I miss my old car), but it’s not that crazy when you think about the culture here.  Italians drink small espresso’s at the bar (not 20oz Starbucks coffees) and I’ve never seen anyone over 15 years-old drink a soda.  McDonalds drive throughs are not a big thing and so there is really no major need for a cup holder.  And, oh yeah – a Big Gulp was never really a viable option, they don’t have 7-11‘s either.

“No cup holders? Well, where am I supposed to put this?”
No space for this adorable Coke (note the spelling of Julia)
No space for this adorable Coke (note the spelling of Julia)

Keep your eyes on the road.  I remember a couple years ago in America, I was driving with extreme caution because I was passing by a cop.  It turned out that it didn’t matter because he was not looking at me, but rather at the text message he was composing while cruising by at about 70mph.  If the police don’t pay much regard to “no texting while driving”, how can citizens take it seriously?  It’s completely different here – I mean, completely!  They don’t even HAVE  a “Don’t Text While Driving” campaign.  You know why?  EVERYONE KNOWS IT’S RIDICULOUS TO TEXT AND DRIVE!  Maybe it’s the narrow roads, maybe it’s the break-neck speed at which everyone drives, or maybe it’s just that people understand how dangerous it is.  In any event, it’s a relief to see.

You don't see texting and driving here in Italy
You don’t see texting and driving here in Italy

Make way for the VIP… motorcycle parking is right over here. Now, this is something I could get into when I move back home!  A lot of places have a designated area for motorcycle parking.  This is great, because cars don’t lose full parking spaces to something 1/3 of their size.  Obviously, it’s great for bikers who don’t have to spend time circling the lot.  Additionally, these motorcycle parking spaces are put to good use year round – bikes are out on the road from January 1st through December 31st; not just in the spring and summer.

Motorcyclists use their bikes year round
Motorcyclists use their bikes year round – she’s wearing a winter coat, gloves and pant warmer
That makes it easy to justify
Year-round motorcycle use makes it easy to justify “motorcycle parking”

A free pen?  Pen-shmen.  Give me something good!  Little freebies are appreciated in Italy, just like in America.  I tease my father in law, because if you open any of his drawers, you are likely to see dozens of TD Bank pens and Wells Fargo notepads (apparently, his banking loyalty goes only as far as their freebies).  It’s no different here, except for the free swag.  I recently got my car serviced and became the proud recipient of a bag of riso (rice).  Leave it to Italians to find a way to incorporate food into anything!

SHOPPING

Consumers in Italy shop for many regional goods; they have a strong preference for products made in their native land.  And who can blame them?  Italy is arguably the best place to buy clothes, food and many other products.  Certainly, we are taking advantage while we are here.

Are you happy with your product?  Good, because you had better be satisfied.  Don’t even think about returning it!  I’ve noted in the past that Italian businesses don’t offer nearly the same level of customer service that we’re accustomed to.  But if you want to see the worst they have to offer – just try to return a product.  You’ll get looked at like you just committed murder.  If by some miracle, their store policy actually allows for returns (the newer, big box stores will let you exchange merchandise for credit), a surly employee will demand a receipt before scrutinizing the merchandise as if your intention to swap out the original product for some inferior one as if you were Warner Bros exchanging Christian Bale for Ben Affleck.45555589

SALE!  SALE!  SALE!  Well, you’d better break out the credit card… this stuff is at a steep 30%-70% discount!  SALDI (sale) is the favorite sign of merchants all across the country.  It seems that there are always sales going on.  And you know what… they’ve got this guy hook…line…and sinker!  We love buying our stuff when it’s on sale, be it at the grocery store or the clothing store.

PROMOZIONE! There is always a great sale going on in our grocery store
PROMOZIONE! There is always a great sale going on in our grocery store
But the BEST sales are when the wine is deeply discounted!
But the BEST sales are when the wine is deeply discounted!

What did I just hear?!  Did you just hear what you think you heard? Well, if what you think you heard was vulgar lyrics while shopping for bread in the grocery store, then you would be right.  Whether from a lack of understanding of English or a lack of censorship; it is not uncommon to hear Brittany Spears telling you to “turn this sh*t up!” when you’re walking through the Bennet (our grocery store).

“Please don’t hit me one more time!”

PETS

The pets here are more or less the same as back at home.  Most people prefer dogs and cats, but you have your occasional bird or even lizard depending on the personality of the owner.  I would suggest that there are certainly more farm animals that are considered “part of the family” though – Claudia (our aunt) grew up loving her prized cow (and one of her best friends).

We welcome you with open arms, Paris Hilton.  Back at home, only big celebrities can get away with bringing their pets anywhere they want.  Here, it’s normal to see dogs outside of the park and inside your favorite restaurant.  And I’m not just talking about “purse-dogs”.  I mean, full on German Shepard’s in grocery stores, restaurants, subways (the subterranean transport – not the sandwich shop) and museums.  Dogs really are that extra family member.

Jen and Fido checking out the sights from inside Jen's hair salon
Julia and someone’s dog checking out the sights from inside Jen’s hair salon

100 grams of pasta is the rule… no exceptions.  Cento grammi di pasta (100 grams of pasta) is the acceptable amount of pasta to eat (unless you’re having a secondo, in which case 80 grams is the way to go).  Italians can accurately grab that exact amount of pasta from the package without looking twice or using a scale.  So, if we’ve already determined that pets are really that extra family member – why should they be deprived of their daily pasta?  A lot of the dog food here is served in pasta form.  Buster knows the difference between  his fusilli and bocconcini cuts of pasta just as well as his owner, Giovanni.

Pasta Naturale for Fido
Pasta Naturale for Fido
Or perhaps her prefers pasta pre cotta with ortaggi
Or perhaps her prefers pasta pre cooked with ortaggi

♠♣♥♦     ♠♣♥♦     ♠♣♥♦

I’ve got even more to write, but then again… I’d like to stretch this series as long as the most perfect franchise ever, Police Academy (and I’m even talking about that seventh installment, the classic gem with a 3/10 rating Mission to Moscow).  See you next time…

Cruises, Friends, Greece, History, Humor, Sipping Espresso, Travel - Europe, UNESCO

Let’s Set Sail Together Again (Corfu, Greece)!

It’s been nearly a month and a half since my last meaningful post and I am once again faced with the monumental task of getting caught back up.  I’m not sure how or why I allowed myself to get so far behind, but I do know that I have left myself a lot of work.  The wine, cheese and salami will just have to wait (well, I suppose it can’t hurt to have a little wine while I write).  I would like to apologize to my readers for this delay and I would like to acknowledge one loyal reader in particular;  Helen  actually reached out to me through our Contact Us page and basically said, “what the hell, Greg – where’ve you been?!”  Helen and everyone – even though it can’t excuse the lack of content, we  just got back from a two-week trip to the States where, in my capacity as Best Man, I roasted my good buddy Josh and toasted his beautiful bride, Abby (read about Josh and Abby’s trip to visit us here and here).

While we were home, I rediscovered some magical things – burritos, quality customer service and Netflix.  We haven’t watched as much TV over the past year as we did over the past two weeks.  I became obsessed with the Netflix original series, House of Cards – an amazing drama starring, Kevin Spacey as Frank Underwood, a cagey and politically ambitious congressman who is constantly scheming and conniving to reach the next rung of the political ladder.  If Frank Underwood can work through all hours of the night and stay ten moves ahead of his opposition, surely I can bang out a few extra blog posts in the next couple weeks.

You and me both, Frank
You and me both, Frank

We still have tons of travel left to do together – I’ve only written about the very first part of our cruise late last year and so much has happened since.  So put on your boating shoes and let’s get going…

Here we go again!
Here we go again!

When I last left you, we had already visited Rome (here and here) before hitting the Mediterranean Sea for Florence.  We spent the next day at sea (which means there is no port and therefore no disembarking the ship), which can often be my favorite time onboard a cruise ship.  We tend to pick our cruises based on the ports of call, but I always like to be sure there are two or three sea days allotted in the itinerary.  It may sound crazy – but it’s nice to have a day to relax in the middle of it all.  Carrying a toddler, stroller, backpack (and sometimes even a wife) across miles and miles of city streets, on and off tour buses and in and out of museums [while rewarding] is a lot of work.  To have a day where you cannot do anything other than enjoy your ship’s amenities is a pretty sweet prospect.  That, and I like to gamble – sea day’s are the only time you can sit in the casino all day (or as long as your wife can tolerate being left alone with your child).

A dormant volcano visible from the ship while we sailed past Sicily
A dormant volcano visible from the ship while we sailed past Sicily
Apparently, gambling is a part of our blood line - Julia enjoys the Casino as much as I do
Apparently, gambling is a part of our blood line – Julia enjoys the Casino as much as I do
First she hit the slots
First she hit the slots
Next, she discovered the blackjack tables - that is definitely my little girl
Next, she discovered the blackjack tables – that is definitely my little girl

The first sea day was also the first “formal night” and so we all three enjoyed an opportunity to get dressed up and go to dinner.  I was up a little after a hard day playing blackjack and so I was in high spirits. The delicious prime rib they served helped to keep me and my tummy happy (they even brought it out “bloody and still mooing with a mountain of horseradish”, just like I asked) .  After dinner, we took in a very enjoyable show and went to bed content with a day of doing… well, not much of anything.

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Ready for a fun “night on the town”
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Julia let me take her for a spin on the dance floor before dinner
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Julia and Jen at dinner

The next day we woke up at port in Corfu, Greece.  It was drizzling and we had a long day at port in a relatively small city, so we decided we would try to wait out the rain on the ship.  We spent the morning participating in some of the cheesy activities organized by the ship’s Cruise Director (imagine a business team building activity).  It would have been an uneventful morning if it had not been for a strengthening bond between two little girls who would quickly be known as the fastest of friends onboard Celebrity’s Silhouette.  Ava had met Julia in one of the cafe’s the day before and  she didn’t hesitate to chat her up on either occasion.  She was likely craving companionship of someone close to her own age (Ava is about a year older).  The two instantly clicked and after the game, they spent some time dancing, playing and “conversing” (if you can consider each girl stating her independent and random observations a conversation).

We meandered about the ship while we waited for the clouds to disperse
We meandered about the ship while we waited for the clouds to disperse
Ava found a new friend in Julia and Julia discovered her new hero
Ava found a new friend in Julia and Julia discovered her new hero

As the girls played, we spent some time getting to know Ava’s parents, Catherine and Jim without realizing that we were making fast friends of our own.  After just a few minutes talking with Cat and Jim, we learned that they have a close-knit family too – they were cruising with Jim’s brother, “Uncle” Mike and his wife, Feng  as well as the boy’s parents – Bob and Dorothy.  The entire family was very pleasant and even though we didn’t realize it at the time, we were forming a relationship with a big family we would “adopt” as our own for the remainder of the cruise.  Eventually, the rain let up and we took our leave for Corfu.

A panoramic of Corfu, Greece
A panoramic of Corfu, Greece

Corfu is a Greek Island dating back to 1300 BC when it was first inhabited by the Phaeacians.  The history of the island is a story penned by bloody battles and conquests.  This is evidenced by the two fortresses that enclose the capital city; two formidable structures standing as pillars of protection against would-be invaders from the sea .  Jen and I decided that we were up for a walk and so we strolled from the ship, past the “New” Fortress (Νέο Φρούριο) and into the downtown area.  We meandered past ancient churches and charming shops and restaurants when heard a tiny, little voice scream, “Juila”!  It was her new friend Ava, who came barreling up and generously gave Julia a big hug and a piece of her bread.  We kept hiking past the outskirts of town and into the Old Fortress (Παλαιό Φρούριο) – a citadel that offers the most magnificent panoramic of the ancient city, justifiably deemed a  UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Strolling through the city streets and taking in the shops
Strolling through the city streets and taking in the shops
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The city streets of ancient Corfu are full of charm
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We walked past beautiful churches
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We came across Ava eating lunch with her family
Old Fortress (Παλαιό Φρούριο)
Old Fortress (Παλαιό Φρούριο)
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The Old Fortress and church that was built on the grounds for the soldiers
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Crossing the drawbridge toward the Old Fortress
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The church and Old Fortress high atop the rocks
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Jen and Julia stroll across a desolate stretch on their way toward the church
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A view of the sea from the fortress walls
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Jen and Julia take in the view
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From the top of the cliff, we had a great view of the city and our ship
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Julia sits along a fortress wall with Corfu in the background
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She gives me a big hug
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Jen wanted to get in on that action

After a pleasant and rewarding day, we concluded our self-guided tour when we missed the last bus back to the ship, thereby closing the loop on our long walk by hustling back to the ship on foot.  We were just moments away from getting back on a course of exploration throughout eastern Europe, just as I am back on track  blogging.  For any other HOC (House of Cards) fans out there, imagine me concluding this post with two quick raps of my class ring on the desk.  Frank Underwood would be proud!

Humor

Sipping Espresso Turns One!

[OR SIPPING ESPRESSO BY THE NUMBERS]

Wow!  We did it!  SIPPING ESPRESSO officially turns one today.  I distinctly remember starting our blog one year ago today.  Jen had the idea to use a blog in order to maintain a “virtual journal” of our time in Italy.  She also wanted a vessel to share our photos and stories with family and friends.  I was intrigued by the idea of maintaining some sort of project and so I was happy to jump into the blogosphere.  Over the past year that we have been posting – our tiny, insignificant blog has grown into something much, much more…a little, insignificant blog.
Grover Helps Us Celebrate

Over the summer, we took a cruise that concluded with a goodbye letter from the captain, along with “fun facts” about our time at sea.  For example, they listed the number of crew on board, the amount of food consumed in terms of weight, our nautical miles traveled, etc.  It gave me the idea that it may be fun to also look back at our own blogging voyage and break down the numbers from this past year.

So without further adieu… here you go.

Sipping Espresso by The Numbers

Number of Blog Posts
87 (including this one)

I couldn’t make it to the even 100 – even though I have a few half-written posts in the pipeline. Sometimes all I feel like I’m doing is sitting in front of my computer… blogging!

Total Number of Page Views
25,955

I was shocked and awed by the number of people that have visited our blog.  Thanks, mom and dad for clicking on the blog 25,645 times and getting your friends to click on the links the remaining 310 times.

Most Unique Countries That Have Visited the Blog
Ukraine (we’re huge with the Ukrainian crowd), Russia, China, Japan, Korea and Australia.  We also have a good amount of visits from our European neighbors  – France, Spain, Norway, Germany and Denmark.  Of course, our biggest base is still the good ‘ol U.S. of A.

Post With The Most Page Views
The View Overtop Como (link) – 1,114 page views

I was really surprised by this.  It’s definitely not one of the better posts or subject matters.  I think it must have some combination of key words that rank it fairly high in google searches about Lake Como.

Greg’s Favorite Posts
Scotland – Where Real Men Wear Skirts (link)
Kiss me, I’m Irish in Dublin (link)
I’ll Take a Pint of the Black Stuff, Gov’na (link)
Recreating a Photo 63 Years Later (link)

This was a tough one for me.  It’s like choosing among your children.  OK, that’s not true at all – it was much easier than that.  I liked these particular posts because I had such fond memories of the events, there was usually a good combination of food/travel/photography in the story and there was most likely a quip or joke I made that I still find to be particularly witty today.

Jen’s Favorite Posts
Beaches, Wine and Pasta Making – What a Vacation (link)
Make My Order of Haggis a Double, Please (link)
Recreating a Photo 63 Years Later (link)
Five Villages – One Day (link)
Our Final Days at Sea (link)
Oktoberfest…What More Can I Say?! (link)

Revenue Earned Through Blogging
$0

Well, I guess I won’t be making a profession out of this anytime soon.Blogging Doesn't Pay The Bills

Our Time Abroad… In a Nutshell

Number of Visitors
23

We have had the good fortunate to have shared many of our adventures with friends and family. Here are the people that came to see us.

Diane (2 visits), Dominic, Jessica, S David (2 visits), Deborah (2 visits), Nathan, Danielle, Michelle, David, Elsa, Giovanni, Sonny, Stefani, Lauren, Josh, Abby, Dave, Jill, Matt and Lindsey.

Average Days in Between Visitors
5.9 days*

When you have that many visitors in a short period of time, it doesn’t give you a lot of time to change the sheets.  To our guests… I promise, they were changed (wink, wink).

*This average was taken from the last day of our first visitor and the first day of our last visitor.

Total Amount of Euros Spent on Traffic Violations
€1,710.78 ($2,318.44)

UGHHH!  That’s a lot of cannoli’s!  This wonderful figure includes the fines themselves as well as the “convenience fee” our local government charges in order to pay the ticket, the mailing fee I have to pay to receive the ticket and the commission I have to pay to use a credit card.  I may not be paying taxes in Italy, but I’ve sure given more than my fair share.

Breakdown of tickets
•Speeding – €1,369.48
•Limited Zone – €288.80
•Parking – €52.50Pull Over

Approximate Grams of Pasta Consumed
44,200 grams (97.44 lbs of pasta)

This [somewhat shocking] math was fairly simple.  An average serving of pasta is 80 grams per person (although, I usually have a little more).

2 people (Greg and Jen) eating pasta 4x week = 640 grams per week
+1 child (Julia) eats a third portion = 210 grams per week 
Total of 850 grams per week

850 grams x 52 weeks = 44,200 grams of pasta

I’d venture to guess it’s a little more than this (let’s call it a ‘cool’ 100 pounds of pasta).  Wow… that’s gross when you add it all up!

Approximate Number of Pizza’s Eaten
208 pizzas

Pizza in Italy is thin and served in individual portions.  So if we both want pizza, we will order two pies.  Not only is pizza delicious – it’s quick, mess-free and simple when you’re on the road.  You can always find a good pizza place anywhere in Italy.  Apart from that, we discovered an amazing brand of frozen pizza that we enjoy probably once a week (Jen cooks amazing lunches, we’re usually more low-key for dinner).

This was also simple math.
4 pizzas per week x 52 weeks = 208 pizzas

I actually think my average my be higher, but I don’t want to embarrass myself any further.Pizza Image

European Countries Visited 
13

Traveling as much as possible was always a major goal in moving here.  Over the past year we have seen Italy, France, Germany, Austria, Vatican City, Greece, Turkey, Montenegro, Croatia, Switzerland, Scotland, Ireland and Monaco.

Regions Visited Within Italy
11

There are 20 regions in Italy, each of them remarkable in their own way.  Every region could make their own argument for having the tastiest food, producing the best wine, boasting the most magical scenery and on and on.  Truthfully, your opinion may be swayed in favor of the region making it’s case… until you visit another region and have to decide all over again.  Seeing each of Italy’s 20 diverse regions is an important part of our experience here.  Even though we may only be able to get a “flavor” of the local place, we’d like to see them all.  We’ve just tipped past the half-way point and we’ve got our fingers crossed that we’ll be able to see all 20.

We have visited:

Lombardia (Lombardy)
Piemonte (Piedmont)
Liguria
Trentino Alto-Adige
Veneto
Emilia Romagna
Toscana (Tuscany)
Lazio
Abruzzo
Campania
Sicilia (Sicily)

UNESCO World Heritage Sites Visited
21

World Heritage Sites are places that have been listed by UNESCO as possessing important cultural significance.  They all share one thing in common – they are beautiful and awe-inspiring.  Viewing these magical sites has been a highlight of our time abroad and a blessing that only Europe can offer in such abundance.UNESCO Logo

Italy
Cathedral, Torre Civica and Piazza Grande, Modena
City of Verona
Historic Centre of Florence
Historic Centre of Naples
Historic Centre of Rome
Historic Centre of San Gimignano
Historic Centre of Siena
Late Baroque Towns of the Val di Noto
Portovenere, Cinque Terre, and the Islands
Venice and its Lagoon
The Dolomites

France
Pont du Gard (Roman Aqueduct)

Austria
Historic Centre of the City of Salzburg

Greece
Acropolis, Athens
Archaeological Site of Olympia
Old Town of Corfu

Turkey
Historic Areas of Istanbul

Montenegro
Natural and Culturo-Historical Region of Kotor

Croatia
Old City of Dubrovnik

Switzerland
Swiss Alps Jungfrau-Aletsch

Scotland
Old and New Towns of Edinburgh

Number of Grappa Bottles Acquired
26

We have acquired (and drank) more grappa in our first month here than either of us had consumed in our lifetimes.  It’s just how it is… we love it!  Plus, we love making our guests try grappa to gauge their reactions.  These 26 bottles have either been purchased, received as gifts or made at home.

Number of Grappas Made at Home
2

It’s surprisingly easy.  If you’d like to try, click HERE

“Strange” Foods Tried by Julia
Julia is quite the adventurous eater.  She’s always happy to eat off our plates and we are happy to expose her to new things.  Among the dishes she’s tried this year are:

Foie gras (goose liver), caviar, pigeon, pâté, haggis (heart, liver and lungs encased in a sheep’s stomach), black pudding (mixture of pork fat, onion, oatmeal and pig’s blood), goat, rabbit, lamb, boar, octopus, squid, freshly shaved truffles, lardo (cured pork fat), fondue, mussels, king prawns and lobster.

These were the only facts and and figures that I had the foresight to include or the smarts to calculate.  If I’ve left anything out, please let me know!  I look forward to Sipping Espresso making it another year and entering our “terrible two’s”.  Thanks for coming along on this voyage with us!