So, I’m back here on Sipping Espresso… blogging. Weird. I’m in America. I’m blogging aboutItalyfromAmerica. Can I do that?! Is that even allowed?! Well, I promised you in my Final Blog Post From Italy that I would finish our tale of overseas adventure and intrigue (OK, OK – more like overseas adventure of gluttony and transparency), so I suppose that I’ll have to make good on my word. For those of you that are sick of hearing about these adventures… I’m sorry, but I’m OCD and I am not much good at leaving things unfinished.
“Well, get going already Dad and tell us this story”!
So, let’s flash back; way, way back to this past spring when Jen’s sister came to visit. Just as they departed for Venice and Rome, we took our own leave from Como and headed toward the metropolitan city of Trieste. When I think about what brought us to Trieste, I finally understand the word bittersweet. We undertook the four-hour road trip to Italy’s easternmost city so that I could run in the Maratonina d’Europa (Europe’s Half Marathon). Despite having to add the somewhat embarrassing “ina” suffix to the end of Maratona (changing the meaning to “very little”), completing my first half-marathon was a very “sweet” accomplishment for me. However, the impetus behind the race was a very “bitter” one. Jen and I had started listing all the things that we wanted to do before our time in Italy came to an end. This particular road trip checked many of our boxes; competing in a race in Europe, a visit to the city of Trieste, time in the region of Friuli–Venezia Giulia, capped off with a visit to Slovenia (upcoming post). Now, that checked a lot of boxes, so careful planning began and hotels rooms were booked.
Julia and I stand in front of the glasses they had set up for the race
Here’s how I would sum up Trieste – it is a MUST-SEE city. Sometimes I find myself guilty of trying to label a city by comparing it to another city. “Rome is like New York, but much older and without the high-rises”. Sometimes, you’ve just got to stop and appreciate where you are for what it is. Don’t try to “label” the place or put it in a box; its easy to fall into that trap with Trieste. A city that has bounced back and forth between Slovenian, Austrian and Italian rule leaves us with a place today that is proud of its blend in architecture and attitude. Trieste is a city not at all confused about its confusing identity. With a rich mix of Slavic, Germanic and Latin influences – I am simply content to label this magical place as one of the most “European” cities I have ever visited.
We’re finally here in Trieste!Fountain that accurately describes Trieste’s ties to the seaAlong Corso Cavour, the main street adjacent to the cities famous piazza
My race was on a Sunday and so we arrived Saturday with a planned departure on Monday. After we checked into the hotel, we strolled down to the Piazza Unità d’Italiato register for my race. I had often heard this piazza referred to as “the most beautiful piazza in Italy” and what I saw did not disappoint. The grand square is the largest of any on the water in all of Europe. On this particular spring weekend the piazza was also the location of my finish line.
We walked down with a friend I made in the hotel – he was also running in the raceJen hangs out with Julia in the squareThe Piazza Unita d’Italia at nightJulia hugs Jen while we were walking around
We didn’t have much to worry about the night before the race, so we strolled through the piazza and walked the roads along the water. They had all sorts of fair-type events set up for the race, including tents serving beer, desserts and carnival rides. I took Julia on the Ferris Wheel and got a great view of the city and the harbor. After the fun, we took in a spectacular seafood dinner near the harbor (mm’mmm I’m making myself hungry for fresh Italian food. Never had that problem while writing until now, when I can’t get it quite as easily).
I get ready to take her on her first ferris wheelAway we go…Daddy/Julia selfieView from our car at the top of the ferris wheelThe sun set shortly after our ridePicture with momPicture with dadThe sunsets in Trieste were like nothing I’ve ever seenThe light play from the sky was this stunning both nights we were thereWe had to try some delicious frittelle with Nutella“Honey… you’ve got a little Nutella, riiiiight there”Walking through the piazza with daddyJulia loved playing with the glassesSelfie at dusk
On race day, I was up and at ’em early – ready to beat my goal time (which I didn’t do). Of course, I forgot that I was in Italy and so the start of the race was a little later than I originally planned. I kept warm by jogging around the parking lot and taking in the crowds. I was tickled when I ran past the snack tents used for refueling depleted calories (usually covered by bananas and power bars) and found brioche and other Italian pastries. When I finished, I could not have been more pleased to be greeted by Jen and Julia; and to have Julia wear my medal.
Julia got up early to see me offThere wasn’t much happening at the start line until after the race was supposed to beginAnd we’re off!I had the sea to my right for almost the entire half-marathonI felt (and looked) like death, but I crossed the finish lineBut I got my medal…Which I was happy to give to JuliaMy little peanut was proud of me… that was the best part of allJulia may have been more interested in the biscotti than the medalFamily picturePicture along the Canale Grande (Grand Canal) that runs through the city streets
After the race, we stopped for a quick snack and beer (hey, I earned it) before going back to the hotel to change. Then, it was time to tour the city! Even though my marathon race was just a maratonina, I’m sure that we walked the remaining 13.1 miles as we wound through Trieste’s ancient streets. This was especially challenging, since the first part of the tour required me to carry Julia and her stroller up the Scala Giganti (Giant Steps). We capped it all off back in the Piazza Unità d’Italia for happy hour before a wonderful dinner.
We stopped for a beer and light snack along the canalJulia rode a merry-go-roundThe touring began with the Scala dei Giganti (Giant Steps) – this is only about 25% of themAfter a long uphill climb, we got this panoramic of the cityWe arrived at the Castello di San GiustoStatue in front of the castle depicts maritime soldiers at warIn front of the castle were ancient Roman ruinsYoung soccer players compete where ancient Roman soldiers stood a thousand years beforeI can never catch Jen for a candid!Here I am in front of the Castello di San GiustoNearby is the Cattedrale di San Giusto – see if you can find the two cannon balls that have been lodged in the stone during a siege from the sea centuries beforeLovebirdsWonderful ancient streets – this is Viale XX SettembreHalf-Marathon or not… this kid had to get up and down these stairs somehowChiesa di San SilvestroTeatro Romano di Trieste – ancient Roman theatreWe stopped back in the piazza for happy hourMy happy hour Instagram shotJulia and I took a stroll around the piazzaChiesa di Sant’Antonio Nuovo at the end of the Canale Grande – well-lit at nightMy girls at night
If you ever find yourself in northeast Italy (I’m talking to YOU, when you plan that inevitable visit Venice) – do yourself a favor and carve out a couple of days to see Trieste. You’ll be glad you did!
If you read the title of this post with your best impression of an Italian accent, then you probably nailed the pronunciation of one of our new favorite Italian towns. Lucca has been on our bucket list to visit for quite some time and now we can happily say we’ve been.
Lucca, Italy viewed from the Torre GuinigiAnother angle from Torre GuinigiLucca viewed from the city walls
The city is renowned for many things, not the least of which is the giant annual gathering of comic book nerds and fantasy film geeks. Lucca plays host to Europe’s version of Comic-Con, the Fiera Internazionale del Fumetto (International Festival of Comics) or as it’s commonly referred – Lucca Comics and Games.
Some participants of Lucca Comics and Games. Photo courtesy of Francesco Petrucci
For those of us that don’t have any desire to put on a Superman costume (yes, I’m just enough of a geek to know the term cosplay), there is more than enough to do in Lucca, which I will detail below. Thanks very much to some free press bestowed on me by Italia Living, I have recently picked up a few new readers (benvenuto a Sipping Espresso) and so I’m going to treat this post a little differently than in the past. As opposed to running through our little vacation part by part, instead I will opt to go a bit more “mainstream” and simply highlight the featured attractions of the city. Of course, I haven’t boiled it down to a “Top 10 Things To Do In Lucca” just yet. I like to hear myself talk far too much!
Piazza del Giglio near our hotel
During Medieval and Roman times, it was quite common to fortify entire cities behind massive protective walls. Today, Lucca is a preeminent example of such fortification and one of the few cities left in Italy with her ancient walls fully intact. It is a wonderful experience to drive your car through the same gate that was quite possibly used by Julius Caesar himself. Of course, in this scenario, I’m simply the chauffeur and my own little Julia is the royalty riding in the back of the chariot. Even though I can’t positively date the existing walls as far back as Caesar, I can place him in Lucca for the well documented Lucca Conference, along with Pompey and Crassus in 56 BC. The origin of the city itself date back as far as 180 BC. Eventually Lucca rose in importance to the Roman empire and achieved immense wealth and status in the 11th century, thanks to the silk trade. The result of this wealth is evident today; the city is very well maintained. Nearly every street features an ancient church boasting a façade clad with expensive marble. Well designed piazzas are now the gathering places for tourists, street performers and restauranteurs. Streets lined with charming shops and wonderful cafes full of patrons keep the vibe of the city humming well into the night.
The ancient walls completely enclose the cityYou can find many fine examples of sculpture and statues along the top of the wallsThe walls are wide enough for cars to pass along the top, but it is solely pedestrianOne of the many churches that can be found on nearly every corner in the city
Our reason for being in Lucca was to visit our good friend, Beth (although here she goes by, Elizabeth which is better understood in Italian). We had an amazing time when we stayed at her home in Tuscany last year, which I wrote about HERE and HERE. She hosted us once again, but this time it was in the Bed & Breakfast she recently purchased, Le Violette. The place matches her personality perfectly; warm and inviting with an extra pinch of charm. I’ll write a full review of her B&B in an upcoming post. After we unloaded our bags in the room, Beth started our tour of the city beginning with the walls, which were widened centuries ago. In fact, not that long ago they used the walls for racing cars. Today, they are purely pedestrian.
View of the main bell tower of Lucca from on top of the wallsWe made our way to the walls several times throughout our tripJulia wanted to walk on her ownJen and Julia stop for a photo on the wall
We hopped off the walls and strolled through the city, enjoying Lucca as only a pedestrian can.
Via del Fosso has a canal running through the centerVia Cenami is one of the main shopping streetsBeth helps Julia take a drink of waterJulia takes a picture with me in Piazza San FrancescoThe old market building where vendors would set up their stalls
Most Italian cities feature outdoor markets one-two times a week. We made our way to one of the fabulous Lucca mercato (market), which is held every Wednesday and Saturday.
Vendors set up for the market twice a weekWe discovered that we accidentally strolled outside the walls by following the long line of vendorsBeautiful flowers are just one of the many things you could buy in the marketI catch Jen for a photo in the marketThe markets can get crowded but they are a great place to pick up a picnic lunch
While in Lucca, you will want to position yourself in a vantage point that will command a view of the entire city, valley and mountains. You can choose to scale the Torre delle Ore (Clock Tower) or the Torre Guinigi (Guinigi Tower). We opted for the later, because it is the only tower in the city that has trees planted on top. But the ascent is not for the faint of heart; it’s a steep 230 steps until you get to the top. Compared to other similar towers, I found the €6 entry fee a bit steep, considering you don’t get anything other than the view (many similar sites also feature other historical items – this was purely just the tower). I quickly reversed my position on the fee when I actually took in the view. Breathtaking might be an appropriate word to describe the panorama.
The final staircase ascending toward the top of the tower (shooting from below, looking up)I lost my cool when I thought this was the top and I would have to view the city through a cage. When I calmed down, I realized there was a door and simply pushed onView of the city with the prominent Cattedrale di San Martino in viewMore of the city and Torre dell Ore (clock tower)Lucca is a beautiful city set with a backdrop of luscious green mountainsPanoramica da Torre Guinigi – I just noticed that almost this exact shot is in the Lucca city guideI noticed a few groups of school children; Lucca is a popular destination for Italians
You will certainly want to pay a visit the Piazza dell’Anfiteatro, a Roman amphitheater that has been reconstructed into a piazza compete with charming shops and cafes. We sat and enjoyed a few drinks while Julia enjoyed running around with Beth’s son, Indi.
Panoramic of the Piazza inside the amphitheaterJulia and Indi play inside the Piazza AnfiteatroJulia loves chasing pigeons!Outside the Lucca Amphitheater you can see the remains of the original Roman structure
Of course, no trip to Lucca would be complete without a visit to the Piazza San Michele and a tour through the Chiesa di San Michele in Foro.
Chiesa (church) di San MicheleThe Romanesque architecture is clearly demonstrated in the façade, which was built in the 13th centuryThe wealth of Lucca is demonstrated by their larger churchesThe piazza hosts some performers that loved playing American 90’s rock (primarily Nirvana)Julia can’t hear the words of Kurt Cobain without being moved to tipJen and Julia in Piazza San MicheleJulia pushes Beth’s son, Indi across the piazzaPlaying in the piazzaChiesa di San Michele at night
I hope you enjoyed our tour through Lucca together and consider adding it as your next Italian destination. Below are a couple more pictures to temp you even further…
Buccellatio di Lucca is a typical bread that is eaten year roundWe constantly commented on how clean and well maintained the city isJulia enjoys some gelato after dinner one night“Come along for an upcoming post all about a couple restaurants in Lucca!”
“The journey should be fun, but if you haven’t learned anything along the way, you’ve not yet reached your final destination.”
-Greg
If you can find Kim Kardashian quotes online, then certainly I should be allowed to try my hand at it!
“Excuse me… did you just try to author a quote – that’s my domain!”
There is a point to that quote however, apart from just trying something new. Our journey abroad has been a wonderful and wild ride. I have had a blast blogging about it and I appreciate all of my readers for tuning in. But more importantly, I’ve learned a thing or two over the past year. As it relates to blogging specifically, I’ve learned a lot. When I look back at my older posts and blogging habits I cringe. I used to spend ages loading photos, and have just recently learned a shortcut that saves me hours. I moved from Blogger to WordPress, which I would equate to a jump from junior high directly to college (my MBA is awaiting the day I can build my own website). I have learned that Top Ten lists and featured images of scantily clad women get you the most page-views. I used to write posts that seemed to go on for days (and you thought I wrote a lot now), but recently I am attempting to keep each post specific to one topic (as opposed to combining multiple cities and multiple food related stories all into one post).
“Tell me about these ‘shorter’ posts, daddy”“I think it’s a good idea in theory, but let’s see if you can really stick to it!
With this new framework of shorter posts I think the blog tends to be a little cleaner and better organized. Of course, I have given myself a lot more work in the process. When we took our first cruise last summer on Holland America’s Nieuw Amsterdam, I wrote three posts on the matter (HERE, HERE & HERE). However, on our adventure aboard Celebrity Cruises Silhouette, I have written nine posts on the ports (ROME, ROME, FLORENCE, GREECE, MONTENEGRO, CROATIA, VENICE, VENICE, SICILY ) and one on the FOOD… you know, for good measure! While I have enjoyed reliving this memorable trip – I will tell you that I am thrilled to announce this is the final post on the matter! Whew… I think we can both breathe a sigh of relief!
In fact, I think it might even be worth dancing about…
So, let’s get down to business. By now – you’ll know that any cruise two main components. There is the shipboard life and the daily excursions. I’ve usually been able to mix in a little shipboard life in these posts, because that’s as enjoyable to us as any of the sightseeing. What follows are a few photos of our final days at sea, including our last formal night, Julia with her friend Ava and an amazing show that the dance crew put on.
All dressed up for the final “formal” night on the cruiseTrying to get creative with a photo shootJulia and her bestie, Ava with the Cruise Director, Patti HonackiThese two were thick as thieves“Come on guys, follow us!”Julia was a big fan of the Executive Chef, Anthony WilsonThe wonderful dance crew performed a “Cirque du Soleil” type performance on the final nightThe girls hug one of the performers
Our final port of call was Naples, a major city in the Campania region of southern Italy. If we had been allowed five days in Naples, we wouldn’t have scratched the surface of this unique area of Italy. For the art and architecture lovers, days can be lost walking around the city of Naples. For the history buffs, you can do no better than exploring the ancient cities of Pompeii andHerculaneum, frozen in time as a result of Mount Vesuvius eruption in 79 AD. For the rich and famous, there is hardly a more popular place to be seen than one of the beach towns along the Amalfi Coast, such as Positano. Of course, if none of that tickles your fancy, you could just simply stop and enjoy a pizza. Naples is credited as the birthplace of pizza and still boasts the title as Heavyweight Pizza Champions of the world (although you may get some argument from other regions in Italy).
The streets of Capri, an island near NaplesCapri
We only had a limited amount of time, so picking our daily excursion was next to paramount. I haven’t been faced with a decision this hard since picking my first ride of the day at King’s Dominion. We felt as though just on this cruise alone, we had already seen so many stunning cities and ancient wonders that we would prefer to enjoy the day unplugging while embracing a taste of luxury and beauty. We decided to hop on another boat and set sail for the small island of Capri.
Capri combines stunning manmade and natural beauty
The small island of Capri was blessed with such natural beauty that it was pre-destined to be a paradise hideaway; it has been a resort destination since the time of the Roman Republic. Unfortunately, I don’t have much proof to offer other than a handful of poorly shot photographs. Immediately upon disembarking the ship, we were pelted with rain.
Sadly, this was how we spent most of the dayPart of the main piazza upon taking the funicolare to the top of the mountainView looking out from the top of Capri
We soldiered on and explored the island until we were finally able to duck into a restaurant for a meal and refuge. In this video, Julia helps me taste my wine at lunch.
After lunch, we walked around a bit before throwing in the towel. Cold and wet, we were feeling defeated. We were both sad that our final day turned out to be such a bust, but please don’t let our dark day discourage a visit to Capri. Even through cloudy skies and wet streets, the charm of this island village was not lost on us. We do hope to get back one day… and this time, we’ll stay long enough to enjoy the city of Naples and surrounding attractions.
“I don’t want these cruise posts to end!” (well, Julia… you’re the only one)
Sicilia (Sicily) was the birthplace of the original Godfather, Don Vito Corleone; its shoresharbored his son, Michael Corleone and recently the island hosted Don Greggorio and his small family. My only disappointment in visiting Sicily was that my wife, Jen wouldn’t let me wear a white suit and hat while walking around passing out fruit like I was Don Vito himself. Oh well, there’s always next time…
The sun rises over Catania. How can you be expected to walk around without a white suit?!
I was so excited to visit Sicily because I’ve wanted to see this unique part of the country for as long as I can remember. This region of Italy is so far south from where we live that I wasn’t sure if we would ever get the opportunity to explore the island while living here. Sicily boasts a plethora of interesting facts that I couldn’t begin to detail in a single post. However, perhaps the most interesting few points are that the island is the largest in the Mediterranean, archeological evidence dates human inhabitants are far back as 8,000 BC and the terrain has changed hands dozens of times (from Greek to Byzantine to Roman and all over again and again).
Coastline along SicilyÌsula Bedda is local dialect for Isola Bella, or Beautiful Island
While the capital city of Palermo is the largest and most populous on the island, Catania is another popular tourist destination and the port city that received us on our visit. The city also bore nostalgic significance – Catania was the birthplace and home of Jen’s bisnonna (great-grandmother), Rapisardi. Even though there is plenty to do in Catania, we decided to take the hour-long train ride up the coast to Taormina. We were not the first to make this journey – Taormina has been one of the most popular tourist destinations in Sicily since the early 19th century. However, we came at a particularly interesting time. The infamous Mount Etna had just erupted a couple of days before our arrival and evidence of the black soot was everywhere.
The black soot from the explosion of Mount Etna covered the entire areaThe beaches became black with sootJulia enjoyed walking on what became a black pathwayWe were all fascinated how far the soot traveled, literally blanketing the town
The rapid expansion of Taormina is believed to have begun around 345 BC. It originally started as part of the Greek empire before falling into the hands of the Romans. Today, the city remains high atop the ridges of the coastline, commanding a beautiful (and strategic) view of the sea. Before we could walk her ancient streets, we had to ascend the long and winding roads from the train station. We secured ourselves a cab and helped some other non-Italian speaking tourists get cabs of their own. Since there were more people than cabs, I offered to share our cab with a German couple. I arranged a pick-up time with the same cab driver at a discounted rate. Not only did we get to split the fare, but we got a discount by giving the same guy round-trip business. I’m always happy to find good travel deals!
Taormina has beautiful coastline and wonderful beachesThe city is nestled high atop the cliffsThe city is something truly wonderful to beholdWe enjoyed hiking aroundJulia took turns posing with her parentsWhat fun!Pretty gals and a pretty view“Momma… listen to me”Once again, Julia was a hit with the other tourists that wanted to hold her and take pictures
Upon arriving in Taormina, we spent some time walking around, soaking up the lovely street scenes. Eventually, we wound our way to the Teatro Antico di Taormina (Ancient Theatre of Taormina). The amphitheater is a fine example of Greek engineering that dates to the seventh century BC. What is most fascinating about this theatre (apart from its spectacular position overtop the Mediterranean) is that the use of brick in its composition hint at Roman construction (an era much later than the seventh century BC). But the design is that of ancient Greece. This architectural style in combination with other archeological elements has unfurled the prevailing theory that the Romans rebuilt the amphitheater overtop an existing Greek theatre. Today, the preservation of this ancient wonder is truly remarkable.
The view as an audience member in the amphitheaterThis ancient theatre dates all the way back to the seventh century BCThe design of the theatre is that of ancient GreeceThe views from the top of the theatre are remarkableJulia and I take a picture with the theatre and coastline behind usShe leans in for a hugI’m a lucky guy – Julia gives me a kissWe soak up the view together
After quite a bit of time exploring the amphitheater, we strolled through the city streets, marveling at the beauty behind each turn. However, we had more on our minds than just lollygagging. We were bound and determined to try arancini, which are essentially balls of fried rice. Of course, there is oh so much more to it than just that! This local Sicilian treat dates all the way back to the 10th century. The perfectly fried balls of heaven are often times stuffed with ragu, pancetta, cheese or other treats. We got a simple variation, just risotto fried lightly beneath breadcrumbs – we couldn’t be happier with our decision. I’ve included a link to a recipe HERE, although we haven’t tried to make them ourselves yet. We’ve since eaten arancini in other parts of Italy – but it’s never quite as good as it was that day in Sicily.
“Quick, dad – take my picture… photo-op!”Mandarini (mandarin oranges) were in seasonJulia found some pigeons that she became friends withJulia is no stranger to her winged friendsShe even made friends with a micino (little kitty)We loved the cityARANCINI! Amazing!!
We took our final walk through Taormina and back toward our departing ship. We had one last port to round out our time at sea – a day in the historic city of Naples.
W got one last look at the beautiful city streetsWe barely made it back to the ship before we set sail toward our final destination
Can you believe that they don’t celebrate Thanksgiving here in Italy?! They also don’t celebrate the Fourth of July, Memorial Day or Labor Day! I know weird, right?!
Our Thanksgiving table is set
Thanksgiving is one of my favorite holidays. Of course I love the spirit of Christmas, the fun costumes of Halloween (another holiday that they don’t really celebrate), the fireworks of our Independence Day… but nothing can match the guilt-free ability to gorge on delicious food all…day…long! And if that wasn’t good enough, you are then permitted… nah, encouraged to lay on your duff and watch football until it’s time to re-heat a plate of leftovers.
Julia was Superwoman for Halloween this year –
even though she was one of few kids dressed up
We knew that we weren’t going to give up our tradition of Thanksgiving just because we are living in another country. In fact, we were excited to share our holiday and traditions with Jen’s relatives. Ideally, we would have eaten our Thanksgiving dinner along with the other people in America (well, six hours ahead anyway) – but we will be out of town during the holiday. So we decided to host our Thanksgiving dinner early. Before we could take our first bite of that delicious dinner, we needed to plan a menu. And if you’ve ever been around my wife when she plans an event… if we have an official menu, then we’ll also need an official outline for the entire week leading up to the event.
I had many small jobs, but the most important – procurement of the bird and selecting the wine. For the turkey, I went to our local macelleria (butcher shop), Macelleria Ostinelli. You see, you cannot just go down to the supermarket and pick up a whole turkey. It simply doesn’t exist here. Italians eat turkey, but they are either quartered or filleted – never sold whole. In fact our macellaio (butcher), Marco had to call his “turkey guy”, Lorenzo just to confirm that they could even have a whole turkey delivered within three days. It was the first whole turkey Marco had ever sold in 20+ years of being a butcher. We got the green light from Lorenzo and went home to continue planning.
Inside Macelleria Ostinelli
Our macellaio (butcher), Marco prepares our turkey
His son, Paolo and niece, Francesca
“Cook me like one of your French turkeys, Jack”
The turkey was so fresh that it was still red… and needed a few extra feathers plucked
The wine was a much more complicated process. I went into a wine shop I’ve been wanting to try; one just outside of downtown Como. The selections of fine Italian wine seemed endless. I chose three wines that are classified as Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG), a designation that connotes some of Italy’s best-known and highest quality wine.
A trio of wine from all over Italy
I opted to start our meal with a Barbaresco (having recently come back from Piemonte). I picked a 2003 Vigneto Loreto from Albino Rocca – a producer that obtains their [nebbiolo] grapes from the finest area in the region. I thought that the balanced flavor profile of this Barbaresco would do nicely to awaken our palates.
2003 Barbaresco Abino Rocca, Vigneto Loreto
For our second wine, I selected a 2008 Brunello di Montalcino. Tuscany is known for many things and their wine is nothing short of spectacular. Agostina Pieri produces a fine example of the wine that incorporates one of my favorite Italian grapes, Sangiovese. The bold flavors would serve as a nice progression from the more tannic and refined Barbaresco.
2008 Brunello di Montalcino Agostina Pieri
Finally, I wanted a wine to shout from the rooftops – so I chose a big, bold Amarone della Valpolicella. Jen and I were just recently introduced to this type of wine by my uncle, and it was love at first taste. A unique harvest and fermentation process yield a ripe, raisiny and full-bodied wine that jumps across your tongue and waltzes with your tastebuds. How could this not be the perfect wine to finish the afternoon?! Cantina di Soave produces a wonderful Amarone, Rocca Alata.
Amarone Cantina di Soave, Rocca Alata
The night before our guests arrive, I helped Jen set the table. Well, I mainly played defense against Julia while Jen set the table. I let her get a goal past me the next day when she ripped up part of the bouquet just before our guests arrived!
Jen’s table
We used seasonal flowers as part of the decoration
A place setting
A napkin before it got messy with delicious food
Center bouquet
Julia got to the other bouquet – I love her look as if to say, “I didn’t do it”
Jen had perfectly timed the turkey to come out and rest next to all of our antipasti. I am willing to bet that we hosted one of the few thanksgiving dinners in the world to start with olives, grissini (Italian breadsticks), salami and parmigiano. Our 7.4 kg (16.3 lb) turkey was quite the showstopper as Jen’s Italian relatives walked in. It was one of the first times ever that I have seen Italians take out their cell phones to take pictures of food. For them, food should be eaten – not photographed (I’ve been called, pazzo more than once). So it was quite a reward for all our hard work to see jaws dropped and cell phones flashing.
Our welcome table
The turkey came out moist and delicious
36-month aged Parmesano cheese and olives
Speck and salami
Grissini
Let’s get the party started
Let’s get the wine decanted…
This is going to be good
After proscecco and antipasti, we each took turns taking family photos on the balcony. I’m glad that Jen suggested this – it gave each family a nice keepsake from a pleasant afternoon.
My girls
Love this peanut
Gianni and Giusi along with their son Marco and daughter Sara
Massimo and Alessandra with their daughter Bea
You know this cast – Greg and Jen with our daughter, Julia
Franco and Claudia – Franco actually smiles for a photo!!
We eventually made our way to the table for our first course, a squash soup with parmesano croutons.
Now we’re ready to really dig in
A drizzle of fine olive oil enhances the taste and presentation
Franco took a picture of the soup as well as the turkey – this was a first!
Next, we brought out all the food. We had the stuffing (I had to explain it as “cooked bread”). We had mashed the potatoes. We had the gravy – “questa è una salsa” (this is a sauce). Pouring a “sauce” over everything was definitely a foreign concept. Claudia made the vegetables – green beens and a ratatouille. And of course, we had the turkey. A roasted lemon sage turkey that was delicious. I explained that the goal was to cram your plate so full that none of the plate was visible. Jen’s cousins Gianni and Marco understood the goal… no one else quite got it. We went around the table to say what we were most thankful for and dug in.
A plate of the carved turkey
Claudia’s vegetables
Jen’s stuffing
My plate – a proper American Thanksgiving plate
Franco’s plate – he didn’t quite get the idea to cover it
Alessandra plays around with Bea, who has likely never seen a turkey leg
Gianni brought a delicious wine that we opened
We never even finished my selections
When we had finally finished eating our dinner, it was time for dessert. Jen made a wonderfully American apple pie. Her cousins Alessandra and Giusi were surprised when she told them that she made her own pie crust from scratch. When they tasted it, they both immediately asked for the recipe (which secretly filled me with pride for my wife). Giusi was so cute, she literally took out a notepad, ready to write – Jen had to promise to work on the measurement conversions and translation and email it at a later date. Equally as impressive was the torte (pie) that Alessandra made. Jen’s birthday had just passed and so she added a surprise element to the dessert. It tasted every bit as good as it looked.
Jen’s apple pie
Alessandra’s torte
I have to say – Jen’s first Thanksgiving Dinner was A-M-A-Z-I-N-G!! There were no hiccups, very little stress and it was absolutely delicious!
Of course, we finished the day off with grappa and whiskey and the most important part of Thanksgiving… a game of football on the television. Only, it wasn’t a game. It was a match. And it wasn’t football. It was fùtbol (soccer). Oh well, you work with what you’ve got.
Our grappa and whiskey
Teenaged girls are the same in any country
Julia puts on a performance
Jen did Sara’s hair – I thought she looked beautiful
Soccer plays on the TV – not quite the football game I’m used to after a Thanksgiving dinner
I hope you enjoyed!
In case you’re interested in viewing the menu that Jen created, I copied and pasted her menu (and then, without her permission… her outline)! Shhhh, don’t tell.
I have a love-hate relationship with running. I love the feeling of finishing a five or six mile run. I hate the agony I get in my calves the next day. I love pushing myself to run a distance further than I’ve ever run before. I hate pushing myself through that first mile after foolishly taking four months off during the winter. Currently, I’m learning to find a proper balance in my on-again off-again relationship with running. Since living abroad, I’ve discovered a renewed commitment to running. I am lucky enough to have some of the most amazing routes in my own backyard – a benefit that definitely keeps me on the trail a little longer.
“Please, come join me along my run”
Julia loves to join me on an occasional run
We have been really lucky with some wonderful weather this fall. Just this morning, I went for a jog in shorts and a lightweight jacket. I understand it’s a lot colder at home, so I would like to invite you to “come for a run with me”. I have several routes that I take on a regular basis depending on how long, how far, or how much of a vertical climb I want. Or sometimes, I’ll just go out and try to find something new.
Running along the trail
“I want to go for a run with you guys!”
“Here I go!”
One of my favorite routes (and probably the one that I take most consistently) is a 5K loop (3.1 miles) around the neighborhood. I have taken many of the friends and family that have visited with me on this very same run. And now you can join me! I’ll map the distances, using mapmyrun so that you know how far we’ve gone.
Let’s get started…
WE TURN RIGHT OUT OF THE NEIGHBORHOOD, HEADED DOWN STRADA PROVINCIALE – WATCH OUT FOR CARS DURING RUSH HOUR
.15 miles
SOON WE’LL COME UPON A BEAUTIFUL COLLECTION OF ITALIAN CYPRUS TREES
.27 miles
SUBSEQUENT TO THE TREES WE’LL SEE THIS FIELD, WHICH MEANS YOU WON’T HAVE A PLEASANT AROMA FOR THE NEXT 1/10 OF A MILE
.29 miles
WE PASS A LAVATOIO (WASH BASIN) THAT IS AT LEAST 120 YEARS OLD – THIS WAS ONCE USED TO CLEAN THE CLOTHES OF THE PEOPLE NEARBY
.33 miles
AT THE TOP OF THE HILL WE COME SMACK INTO THE DANGER ZONE! THE DOUBLE ROTONDA(ROUNDABOUT) – BE CAREFUL HERE!
.47 miles
THIS IS ONE OF MY ABSOLUTE FAVORITE PARTS OF THE RUN, WHERE THE VIEW SPANS FOREVER AND AN ANCIENT VILLA REACHES FOR THE CLOUDS
.75 miles
WE START A MILD DESCENT
.84 miles
QUICK! LOOK LEFT – THERE IS A BRIEF OPENING WITH A STUNNING VIEW
.87 miles
.87 miles
.87 miles
KEEP ON MOVING, BUT BE SURE TO HUG THE FENCE LINE TO YOUR RIGHT. CARS ARE LIABLE TO FLY BY
.90 miles
.91 miles
GET READY TO ROUND THE BEND – WATCH OUT FOR CARS AND BICYCLES
.93 miles
.99 miles
CONGRATULATIONS – WE JUST FINISHED OUR FIRST MILE! PEEK TO YOUR LEFT FOR A UNIQUE VIEW OF THE VILLA
1.02 miles
DON’T FORGET TO LOOK LEFT INTO THIS OPEN FIELD AND BEYOND TO THE MOUNTAINS…
1.13 miles
1.15 miles
1.15 miles
NEXT, LOOK AHEAD AS THE VILLA MATERIALIZES IN FRONT OF YOU
1.15 miles
1.16 miles
I OFTEN WONDER HOW MANY THOUSANDS OF TRAINS THIS LITTLE HOUSE HAS SEEN PASS BY
1.18 miles
CROSSING OVER THE RAILROAD TRACKS – BE CAREFUL
1.19 miles
YOU’RE JUST AS LIKELY TO PASS A TRACTOR AS YOU WOULD BE TO PASS A CAR
1.25 miles
1.27 miles
1.27 miles
I LOVE THIS GROUP OF UNIQUE TREES ON THE PROPERTY
1.27 miles
NEXT, WE WILL START OUR ASCENT UP AN ANCIENT ROAD
1.32 miles
1.41 miles
A GLANCE BACK OVER OUR SHOULDER LETS US KNOW WHERE WE’VE RUN
1.44 miles
1.44 miles
1.44 miles
HERE, WE CAN CHECK OUT THE LOCAL EVENTS FOR OUR COMMUNITY
1.47 miles
LOOK TO YOUR LEFT TO SEE ONE OF THE MANY CHURCHES IN THE AREA
1.48 miles
WE HAVE AN IMPORTANT DECISION TO MAKE HERE… I DON’T SUPPOSE MY LEGS WILL CARRY US THE 40 KM (24 MILES) TO MILANO, SO WE’D BETTER GO LEFT
1.58 miles
THE ROAD CROSSING IS A LITTLE DICEY HERE – LOTS OF BLIND SPOTS. I ALWAYS HUSSLE PAST THE CRYPT TO OUR RIGHT
1.61 miles
1.65 miles
HERE, WE PASS A BAR THAT IS “ALWAYS” OPEN
1.65 miles
THE BAR – FEEL FREE TO STOP FOR AN ESPRESSO IF YOU FORGOT TO HAVE YOURS BEFORE OUR RUN
1.65 miles
WE WILL NEXT PASS A SECTION OF TOWN THAT EXPERIENCED IT’S HEYDAY 50 YEARS AGO… 100 YEARS AGO… 200 YEARS AGO?!
1.75 miles
1.77 miles
1.78 miles
BE CAREFUL – THE ROAD IS VERY NARROW – TOO TIGHT FOR TWO CARS TO PASS AT ONCE. IT’S NOT UNCOMMON TO GET PINNED AGAINST THE RIGHT WALL
1.79 miles
LOOK TO YOUR RIGHT – QUITE A VIEW OF THE VALLEY. TO OUR PREVIOUS GUESTS… DO YOU RECOGNIZE THE BENNET (OUR GROCERY STORE)?
1.83 miles
WE HAVE TO MAKE A SHARP LEFT OFF THE MAIN ROAD AS WE APPROACH ANOTHER FAVORITE STRETCH OF THE RUN
1.90 miles
1.92 miles
THIS TWO LANE ROAD BECOMES EXTREMELY NARROW – I PREFERRED WHEN IT USED TO BE MUCH MORE RUGGED. THEY RECENTLY PAVED IT… WELL HALF OF IT
2.05 miles
2.08 miles
2.11 miles
2.11 miles
2.11 miles
CONTINUE ALONG THIS REMOTE ROAD
2.19 miles
WE PASS A CORNFIELD ON OUR RIGHT – THIS WAS JUST HARVESTED THREE DAYS AGO – I THINK THEY USE IT AS CATTLE FEED
2.25 miles
WE APPROACH AN INTERESTING PART OF THE RUN… ANOTHER SECTION OF HOUSING WHOSE HISTORY ENDED LONG AGO. I OFTEN WONDER WHEN A NEW STORY WILL BE WRITTEN FOR THESE ANCIENT PROPERTIES
2.38 miles
2.40 miles
2.41 miles
WE PASS THROUGH OUR FINAL STRETCH OF OLD, VACANT PROPERTIES
2.47 miles
NOW WE WILL TURN ON TO VIA KENNEDY, WHICH ALWAYS CRACKS ME UP
2.53 miles
NOW THAT WE’RE BACK IN TOWN, IF YOU GLANCE OVER YOUR RIGHT SHOULDER, YOU WILL SEE OUR FAVORITE FRUIT STAND – YOU CAN SEE THAT ZUCCHE (SQUASH AND PUMPKINS) ARE THE SEASONAL VEGETABLE
2.70 miles
OK – DIG DEEP. WE’VE GOT AN UPHILL CLIMB, BUT WE’RE IN THE FINAL STRETCH. WE’RE GOING TO RUN RIGHT THROUGH THE CENTER OF TOWN
2.83 miles
LOOKING LEFT, YOU’LL SEE MY FAVORITE STREET IN OUR TOWN OF ALZATE BRIANZA
2.89 miles
THIS IS IT… NEARLY HOME. A SLIGHT DOWNHILL DESCENT HELPS US – TIME TO PICK UP THE PACE… MY BROTHER-IN-LAW CALLED THIS MY FINAL “KICK”
2.91 miles
WE’VE ARRIVED AT THE ROTONDA BY OUR HOME – FULL SPRINT NOW WITH WHATEVER IS LEFT IN THE TANK
3.03 miles
TURN RIGHT DOWN OUR STREET…
3.05 miles
WE DID IT!! WE’VE ARRIVED HOME JUST IN TIME FOR LUNCH. PASTA IT IS – HEY WE EARNED IT!
3.10 miles – nicely done
IF YOU’D LIKE TO REWARD YOURSELF WITH A NICE DRINK LATER IN THE EVENING, HEAD BACK INTO TOWN TO THE AB CAFE
The best “happy hour” in town
Don’t forget, gang – there’s always time to stop and smell the roses
I hope you enjoyed coming with me on my run today! I certainly appreciated the company!
The title of this post sums it up quite nicely. I am finally going “live” with the newest page of the blog – Shutterbug “Stazione” (Shutterbug Station), which is a collection of our favorite photographs.
I will be adding them in chronological order, so I have only added roughly a dozen photos from our first couple months living abroad. I will work hard to add our remaining “favorites” in the coming weeks in order to bring us current. I’ll post a notification when new photos are added.
Feel free to click on the new page link at toward the top of the page, or simply click HERE.
Sometimes living abroad is hard. Like when you miss a good friend’s wedding in upstate New York – an event that turned out to be the social gathering of the year (according to Facebook pictures and word of mouth). Thankfully Dave and Jill completely understood when we declined to come. Or when one of your best friends tells you that he’s planning on “popping the question” via email, because there’s really no easier way. Those are the types of conversations that should be reserved for a late night in a neighborhood bar, complete with lots of back pats and free rounds for the groom-to-be. Thankfully, Josh was great about keeping me in the loop, sending us pictures of his wonderful proposal to Abby in Charlestown earlier this year (and even calling us via FaceTime shortly afterward). So, yeah – living abroad can be hard when you miss these special moments in your friends and families lives. However… when we’re able to host our friends and family here, we are always grateful for the experience abroad.
Abby, Josh, Jill, Dave, Jen and Julia
For that reason, we were absolutely thrilled when we heard that Josh and Abby were going to come visit us. We coordinated the timing of their trip so that they would be visiting during a beautiful time of year and the start of Oktoberfest in Munich, Germany. As soon as they booked their airfare, I reserved our train tickets to Munich, which I’ll write about in the upcoming post.
Josh and Abby in Varenna
Shortly after learning of Josh and Abby’s visit, we got even more good news. Our friends Dave (aka, Dr. Dave) and Jill were also going to be in Europe at the same time and wanted to spend time with us here in Como. I mentioned that we would also be going to Oktoberfest and they were able to arrange it so that they could join us there too! While they didn’t stay with us in either locale, they coordinated close quarters so that we could spend time together.
Dave and Jill in Brunate
When Josh and Abby arrived in Italy, we opted for a new strategy. We decided to be “low-key” for the first day. We even allowed them the option to take a nap, if they wanted. In the past, we have cooked massive meals, whisked people immediately to downtown Como and forced them to stay awake in order to stave off jet-lag. However, we’ve learned that visitors often forget their first day – it’s simply too much, too fast (especially in a comatose state). So when I got them home safe and sound, we simply walked across the street to one of our local favorites, Quattro Staggione. Even though the food is Italian (shocker), the restaurant is fashioned after a German beer garden. Jen and I decided that it would be a good start to get us in the mood for our upcoming trip to Germany. We capped the night off with more food and drinks and they hit the sack early, ready to begin their world-wind trip freshly rested.
The plan the following day was to meet Dave and Jill at our place, before heading to Antichi Sapori – the best pizza place in all of northern Italy. They were driving down from Switzerland and ended up getting lost – opting instead to meet us at the restaurant. When they finally arrived, we rushed through our meal so that we could reach our next destination quickly… an activity that had me as giddy as a nerd at Comic-Con. I had arranged for something that I’ve wanted to do since we moved here – a privately rented boat to drive around Lake Como. I’d looked into it in the past, but only found prohibitively expensive companies or boat operators that drove you themselves. I wanted to be the one to get behind the wheel and really open’er up . On a previous visit to Tremezzo, I discovered a company that was not only reasonably priced – but also gave you free reign of their boats (with surprisingly little information in exchange. Luckily for them, I do actually have my boating license). Josh grabbed some wine and beer and we got on the water ready to enjoy the sights and sounds of Lake Como from the middle of the lake itself!
I pull the boat away from Tremezzo – Josh and Abby settle in for the ride
Julia loved the wind in her hair
The towns along the lake are even prettier to see from the water
I stop driving to pose for a picture with Jen
Josh and Abby enjoying time aboard our boat
Dave and Jill on Lago di Como
Julia gives us a smile
Family photo in front of Bellagio
The “girls”
The “guys”
Isola Comancia – I’ve never been so close
Julia decides to hang out with the boys and helps me drive
I relax in the back with a beer and my girl…
…who promptly lost interest in me when Josh took over driving. Guess she likes men with power
The entire crew on the dock after we returned
After a fun-filled day on the lake we made it home with enough time for Jen to cook a wonderful meal. We had all the usual suspects (cheese, salami, olives, salad, bread, etc.) with osso buco served over a risotto milanese as the star of the show (Abby had her first taste of veal and her first taste of bone marrow all in one sitting). We also had several bottles of wine to accompany the meal. After the food stopped coming, we broke out the traditional grappa. Usually, grappa signals the end of the meal and drinks – but not with this crew! After grappa, I took the guys down to my cantina (wine cellar) and brought back a special bottle of whiskey I had gotten in Scotland earlier this year. The girls opened another bottle of wine and the party continued. Eventually, someone decided it was a good idea to go to the bar next door and close the place down… it was not a good idea!
The late night started out innocently enough…
…and then turned into this…
…and some of this!
After breakfast the next day, Dave and Jill came back to our place and we all went into Como together. We walked around Como for a bit and then took the funicolare (cable car) up the mountain to the small town of Brunate. We had a phenomenal lunch overlooking the lake as well as Como. Later that night, it was another favorite for us – Ristorante Simposio in Inverigo Hotel, a four-star hotel near our home. We were excited to order the zuppa di mare – a mixed seafood dish that [at this particular restaurant] is absolutely huge. The six of us shared the dish as an appetizer, couldn’t finish it and were full before our entrees arrived. And they claim that this dish is for two!
We relaxed in the restaurant’s garden with some vino rosato while we waited for our table
The group enjoyed a wonderful lunch with a great view
Photos compliments of Julia
Hanging out at one of the panoramic spots in Bruante
The zuppa di mare that we’ve always wanted to order, but never had enough people
Dave ordered branzino arrostito al sale (branzino roasted in salt)
The following evening we would depart for Germany on an overnight train (Dave and Jill drove separately in their rental car). But we had all day to fill, so we formulated a plan to go hiking in Switzerland. Our home is close to Lugano, Switzerland – a wonderful city surrounded by beautiful Swiss mountains. Dave and Jill researched a popular climb and so we set out for a vertical ascent that would reward us with wonderful views of the Lago di Lugano and the city below.
Lago di Lugano – the city is on the left of the lake
Josh and Abby along the hike
Dave downplayed the vertical climb of the hike – both Jill and Josh have recently had major reconstructive knee surgery
Of course, the next part of this adventure was our time in Germany – but that warrants it’s own post. So, I’ll conclude this portion of blog with the remainder of Josh and Abby’s trip. After we all returned from Munich, they ventured off on their own to Venice and Verona before returning home to Como. We wanted to spend their last couple days exploring towns along Lake Como and made the decision to discover a new town together (we’ve been to many of the popular lake towns, but there is still so much for us to explore). I’m glad that we agreed to explore together, because Josh and Abby helped us find Varenna – one of our new favorite towns along the lake. We spent all day exploring the town and the castle, Castello di Vezio.
Varenna is a beautiful new town that Josh and Abby helped us find
Josh and Abby cuddle for a picture
Family photo by the water
Josh shares his bench with Julia and she shares some gelato with him
“Mom, smile like this!”
Good place for a photo
“You guys go on ahead, I’ll just hang out here”
Vivid placard on the wall of Chiesa di S. Giorgio
“Cheese!”
“On top of the world!”
Even though Castello di Vezio is privately owned, it is open to the public all year round. The castle, which dates back to 1169 – boasts a wonderful collection of collection of birds of prey, including a fantastic horned owl and some magnificent hawks. There is a garden of wooden statues and totems carved by local artists such as, Luigi Gambato. But most interesting were the “ghosts” that greeted you at the gates (a shocking image as you round the corner) and adorned the caste’s walls and towers. They are made from white chalk each summer by using the frames of willing tourists that sit and allow the artists to sculpt around them. We spent our final day in Como and then bid Josh and Abby a fond farewell as they boarded their plane headed back to Washington DC.
Julia helps Josh pick his final outfit – she models one of his shirts
A tower of Castello di Vezio
The castle was in amazing shape for being nearly 1,000 years old
Beautiful doorways and walls
The trees on the castle grounds were stunning
The ghosts of Vezio offered a strange and haunting welcome
Everywhere you turned, you were being watched
Josh tests the sturdiness of an ancient walkway
Julia ascends the stone steps of a tower with me
The fortress was located with an open view of the lake – located centrally across from Bellagio
The main tower of Vezio
Oh, who’s that poking out on top of the tower?!
I embarked on a climb to the top alone
Looking down I saw a couple of familiar faces
They had an impressive display of birds – this falcon put on a demonstration with a Falconer
This was another Falcon in a different part of the castle
Looking down on the town of Varenna from high atop the cliffs
We discovered the castle’s ancient prison
Josh descends into the depths
Julia is having way to much fun in jail
The prison was just carved out tunnels in the stone
Julia borrows a free ride on their last day in Como
I hope you’ve enjoyed hearing a bit about some of the great times we had with close friends. Keep an eye out for the upcoming Oktoberfest post – the fun we had there wasn’t quite so innocent…
We recently had the most amazing vacation aboard Holland America’s Nieuw Amsterdam and I have had a wonderful time writing about it. I have discovered even more about each destination as I’ve researched them further and I have had the pleasure of reliving it all over again as I post the pictures. I hope that you’ve enjoyed your time aboard with us. Sadly, I will close this chapter of our overseas adventure and move onto the next story in an upcoming post. There is still plenty more to come in the blog pipeline…
“Dad, wrap this up already – you’re putting us all to sleep!”
If you joined us thus far, you’ll know we visited Venice, Olympia and Athens in our first post and then Istanbul and Lesbos in the second post. The final leg of our cruise transports us to Kuşadası, Santorini and Argostoli. As always, we’ll include some of our shipboard life and hopefully you’ll be able to stick with me – I’ve got a ton of pictures in this final post.
When I last left you, we were sailing away from the Greek island of Lesbos and I was getting knocked out of a blackjack tournament final table with some unlucky cards. The only thing that could wash away that feeling of despair was some spiritual enlightenment. Sure, they have a chapel aboard the ship – but I think strolling directly from the casino into the chapel is the sort of thing that the Big Guy frowns upon, so I waited for our port the following day.
We woke up in Kuşadası, Turkey – a beautiful resort town on the Aegean coast; wonderful in it’s own right, but not our intended destination. We were set to visit, Ephesus – an ancient city with a plethora of historic treasures. There are two main spectacles to behold within the vicinity of Ephesus – the Ancient City itself and the House of the Virgin Mary. Since the terrain was difficult to access and far from the ship, we hired a private driver to bring us to the notable sites. We first started with the House of the Virgin Mary, arriving fairly early in the morning. This small home was said to be the final home and final resting place of the Virgin Mary, carried here to live out her final days by St. John, the Apostle. Our early arrival time did little to help put us in a tolerable position in the queue (yes, I just “British’d” it up). The house is both a Catholic and Muslim shrine (so… um, yeah – number one and two religions in term of size). Given that fact, the line would normally be long – but we happened to arrive on the most “holy” of days. The annual pilgrimage to the House of the Virgin Mary coincided with our visit and threatened to consume our entire day along with the thousands of other visitors cramming in to see a tiny house.
Jen and Julia in front of the House of the Virgin Mary
A bronze statue of the Virgin Mary welcomes all visitors
As spiritually enlightening as seeing a 150 sq. foot home could be (admittedly, this was more my wife’s gig than mine), I was not thrilled at the prospect of standing in line under the hot sun all day. I saw an alternative option and struck with military precision when the time was right. First, I set out on a reconnaissance mission to scout additional routes for people with strollers. Coming up empty handed in that department, I formulated a plan. When I returned to Jen and Julia standing in line, I uttered the following words verbatim; “follow me, don’t ask any questions, don’t stall and keep up with my pace”. You see, my wife is a perpetual “rule follower” and I am a habitual “rule breaker”. Her innocence often thwarts my plans for easy advancement – but I think she was on board this time; moving at a snails pace under a hot Turkish sun will cause any mother to want to move! We whisked past the crowds, through an outdoor church service and out the other end to a gate immediately in front of the house. It certainly helped that I was pushing a baby stroller and can dish a kind smile that I reserve for occasions like these. My little stunt saved us an estimated three hours (no exaggeration). Jen was pleased with my shenanigans for once… now maybe I can convince her to come over to the dark side.
Just a portion of the long line that was making the annual pilgrimage to see the house
Mary would not approve of my behavior – I did have a baby to worry about though
Jen lights a candle to ask forgiveness for my shenangins
Our next stop was the the Ancient City of Ephesus. Artifacts excavated on site have proved that there were inhabitants in this area as far back as the Neolithic Age (6,000 BC), with consistent development throughout the Bronze Age and into the Archaic Period, when the city really began to prosper (650 BC). The city changed from Greek to Roman and finally into Turkish domain in 1304. Today, archeologists are constantly amazed by the plethora of treasures being discovered on a continual basis. The prevailing theory is that they have only unearthed a fraction of the city (a lot of major discoveries were made as recently as the 1970’s), but limited funds have slowed down excavation and restoration efforts. Some of the more notable discoveries are the Temple of Artemis, which is one of the Seven Ancient Wonders of the World and the Library of Celsus, which appeared on the Turkish Lira between 2001 and 2009.
We passed this large Virgin Mary on the way to the Ancient City
Standing next to the Basilica Stoa
Julia decides to lead the tour for our little group
“Peekaboo!”
“Look at me!”
The Bouleuterion (100 AD) housed the meetings of the council
Julia and I hiked all the way to the top of the Bouleuterion
Street lined with archeological excavations
The Temple of Domitian (81 AD)
The Curetes Street – a main boulevard prestigiously equipped with marble paving and home to many boutiques
The Deep Traveler statue recovered in 2013 dates back to 1980 – Jen’s favorite piece
The Trajan Fountain (102 AD)
The Temple of Hadrian (138 AD) – one of the most stunning ruins along the Curetes Street
We discovered a seldom seen gem, the Latriana
Public latrines where residents would literally sit cheek to cheek
Family photo in front of the Celsus Library
Tiberius Julius Aquila commissioned the Celsus Library (110 AD) as a mausoleum for his father
Column base with writing from Ancient Greek times
A market enclosed the exit gate of the ancient city – I happened to love this guy’s honesty
The next stop on our cruise was the port I was most excited about above all our other destinations – Santorini, Greece. Images of white homes with blue trim overlooking the Aegean danced in my head all night. Our wonderful Cruise Director, Anthony and Location Guide, Tom would televise a show about each port prior to our arrival. Through this in-room broadcast, I learned that Santorini (Σαντορίνη) sits perched high atop a cliff, with three ways to ascend. You can traverse the vertical 260 meters (853 feet) by climbing a difficult 580 steps (not ideal for couples with strollers) or you could opt to take the cable car for a fast and scenic arrival. Finally, you can chose to climb the absolute best way possible – by donkey!! Believe me, it was not easy to sell this option to Jen – but I never take “no” for an answer. We had an absolute blast climbing, laughing and trying not to fall off. I don’t think Julia has ever had so much fun in her life and I haven’t laughed quite so hard as I did to the shrieks of pure terror coming from Jen. The donkeys climb the pathway unassisted and will [at times] pin you against a wall while they wait for the overcrowding of ascending and descending donkeys to clear. All in all – a wonderful experience.
“eehh-aaaww!”
“You want me to carry you AND you’re baby?!”
The guide helps us on – that was the last we saw of him, this donkey was on autopilot
And w’ere off
Julia wanted to take a turn on her own
Santorini is an island unlike any we’ve ever seen. First of all, the entire complex of islands was formed by a volcanic eruption over 60 million years ago. The city today is essentially what remains after a more recent volcanic explosion in the modern age (this area is the most active volcanic area in the South Volcanic Aegean Arc). Santorini is financially supported by the bustling tourism industry; not surprising as ours was one of three cruise ships waiting patiently off shore for the tenders to bring passengers back and forth. In fact, Santorini was the only port to provide their own tenders – much larger boats than any cruise ship could provide in order to bring more people ashore quickly. It is actually quite smart of them to recognize that opportunity.
Horsing around with daddy
And then mommy
The blue ocean was simply magnificent
Julia is kind enough to share her drink with me
As well as her mother
This guy was selling freshly caught lobsters – look at the size of those beauties
Family photo
My two girls
Santorini
“I love this place!”
The blue domed churches were exactly what I envisioned
Some of the resorts offered stunning views – of all our ports, we want to come back to Santorini the most
A city unlike any other
I thought this was a great “artistic” shot – I was later validated when I saw this image in a travel magazine
From Homer’s Odyssey?
Here you can really get a sense of the volcanic caldera upon which the city was built
The white houses and blue domed roofs were just as promised
Climbing up a portion of the volcano – just off the beaten path
Jen covers Julia from the sun
#HollandAmerica would have these amazing reception areas at every port before re-boarding the ship
Sailing away gave you a true sense of the grandeur of the island
After Santorini, we saw the end of our cruise approaching quickly. I think we both somewhat dismissed our final destination, since neither of us had heard of Argostoli, Greece (in fact, when we woke up at port Jen proclaimed, “Oh! We have another stop?!”). Quietly dismissing Argostoli (Αργοστόλι) as, “just another stop” was foolish since it turned out to be one of the most pleasant days we experienced. The island is one of the larger of Greek Isles and was has the pleasure of hosting gorgeous beaches.
Family photo in front of the aqua-green waters of Argostoli
We passed through a brief section of woods before arriving at the beach
The beach opened before us like a butterfly spreading it’s wings for the first time (too much??)
You can never go wrong when you can rent straw beach umbrellas for the day
There were tons of people in the warm water
When we pulled away from Argostoli, we had one final “formal night” aboard the ship. Holland America went all out for this final night and served lobster tails and filet mignon in many of the ship’s restaurants.
Family photo in the Manhattan Dining Room on the formal night
Jen and Julia get ready for their meals
We started with foie gras
We each ordered surf and turf
The last day aboard was a sea day and so the world was our oyster. As always, there were plenty of activities to keep us entertained. One activity in particular caught my eye – a behind the scenes tour of the Nieuw Amsterdam’s amazing kitchen. We got to walk through their massive, industrial kitchen and I learned a few interesting facts about our ship. A kitchen crew of 150 individuals prepare food for 223 service staff to serve the guests each day. Each week 11,830 lbs of meat is consumed aboard the ship. A fact that I thought was staggering until I learned that 1,675 lbs of butter is also consumed each week (yuck – heart attack)! The tour was wonderful and the crew gave Julia one of their display crabs made from cooked bread dough.
The Executive Chef, Daniel Hergic poses with two of his chefs
A display of some of their finer beef and lamb
The form of their “bread-animal” displays before they were cooked
And then the final product. Julia got to keep the crab (the missing gap in the middle)
Included in the cost of most cruises is unlimited food at a variety of restaurants (casual dining, poolside dining, room service and the main dining rooms). Many cruise ships also offer the option to pay a nominal fee for more specialized dining (usually between $15 – $35/pp). On our previous cruise, Norwegian Cruise Line had a Japanese steak house complete with hibachi show. On our last day aboard the Nieuw Amsterdam, we decided to try two of the three specialized restaurants. We had a lunch of dim-sum in the Tamarind Restaurant, an upscale Asian specialty restaurant and then finish our cruise with a celebratory dinner at the Pinnacle Grill, a five-star steakhouse. Our last dinner was made even more special when the casino sent a bottle of wine to our room prior to dinner and then another one to the table as we dined! What a wonderful way to cap off the most amazing vacation of our lives.
We started with a hot and sour soup
Asian Herb Szechuan Sesame Salad
Steamed classic dumplings and a mixture of items from the wok, paired with fried rice
Later that night, at the Pinnacle Grill…
Jen started with a lobster bisque made tableside
Lobster bisque with crème fraîche and aged cognac
My caesar salad with homemade dressing, grated parmesan cheese, garlic croutons and anchovies, prepared tableside
My porterhouse with horseradish-mustard and master chef’s green peppercorn on the side
Jen ordered the lobster tail on a bed of wilted spinach and arugula, with “mango-churri” pesto sauce
Julia thanks Captain Edward G. van Zaane
Thank you Holland America for hosting us and thank you for reading all about it!
In my most recent blog post, we embarked on a cruise throughout the Mediterranean. I’d love for you to continue the adventure with us as we head to Istanbul, Turkey and the beautiful Greek island of, Lesbos. I’ll finalize our voyage in an upcoming post that will include the final ports of call and some more stories about our shipboard life.
“Oh, tell me… tell me all about it!”
When I last left you, we had visited Venice, Olympia and Athens. By this point in the cruise, we really hit our stride and had fully immersed ourselves in everything Holland America’sNieuw Amsterdam had to offer. We were overeating delicious food (and then trying to work some of it off in their state-of-the-art gym), spending time in the casino (maybe too much time… literally every casino worker knew me by name), taking in shows and making friends all over the ship. We found a couple of other families with small children, but for the most part – we were in the minority (not fitting into your typical “cruise-goer” demographic). I’ll tell you what… if you ever want affirmation about your kids cuteness – go on a cruise with thousands of grandparents missing their grandkids. They were all so happy to pay us compliments about Julia that it made us excited to take her anywhere on board.
Julia made friends wherever she went
She gained a large following of fans
That grew the longer we were on board
Midway through the cruise, we arrived in Istanbul, Turkey. This was to be the only port mid-voyage that had an overnight stay, allowing us two days to explore the massive city. To describe Istanbul as “massive” is underselling it. The city boasts a population of nearly 14 million people in the urban area alone and is ranked as the second largest city in the world ranked by population within city limits [source]. It is the only city in the world that stretches across two continents (Europe and Asia). Istanbul is home to over 3,000 mosques and welcomes nearly 12 million visitors each year. These are just a few of the fun facts about this amazing city, so yeah… massive really undersold it! If only there was some sort of book… kind of like a dictionary… that would give you alternate versions for specific words…
When we got off the ship on the first day, we took a bus directly to the Grand Bazaar. This location was ideal, because it would afford us the time we wanted to shop and then walk around that particular area of the city. We walked through the gates of the Grand Bazaar and our mouths dropped. I still remember the first time I went to a flea market. My great aunt Barbara took me to a market in New York when I was 8 years old. I was awestruck by all the amazing things that could be found with just a little looking. She bought me a brand new GIJoe Cobra Stun vehicle that I probably still have in a basement somewhere to this day. If I could reconstruct that image of my first market in my mind, with all my boyish enthusiasm and multiply it by a hundred – it couldn’t reach the level of awe I found myself in as a man standing in the Grand Bazaar. You can even factor in the fact that I had a wife repeatedly telling me, “I’m ready to shop – make sure you have plenty of Euro’s handy” weighing on my mind!
Main Gate of the Grand Bazaar
Shops extend around the outside of Grand Bazaar
The Grand Bazaar is like nothing we’ve ever seen. It is an enclosed market that ranks among the oldest in the world. 61 city streets house 3,000 shops that eagerly accept the money of up to 400,000 visitors every single day. This does not include the open air markets that have been built around the Bazaar and dominate many more city streets. Originally, each shopkeeper was allotted a 6′ or 8′ dolap (stall) in which to showcase their wares, the finest of which were kept hidden in drawers. The market was erected after the Ottoman Empire between 1455 and 1460. It reached it’s final form in the 17th century and not much has changed since. The main reason for the collective, enclosed space were to prevent against theft, fire and uprising. Even though the Turkish Lira is the currency of the country, merchants accept US dollars, Euros or Turkish Lira.
Jen and Julia enter the Grand Bazaar
Some teas for sale
The Turkish nargile (hookah) became popular during the Ottoman Empire
Jen and Julia with a Turkish flag behind them
Julia was fascinated with the beautiful lamps
Jen and I pause for a picture in the market
We didn’t notice any food vendors or restaurants inside the Bazaar – it turns out, the merchants have been bringing their lunches in boxes called sefertas for hundreds of years. However, they can get simple dishes like döner kebabs delivered right to their stalls (although, it’s more common for one of the merchants to bring back lunch for the entire shop). What I did notice quite a bit (and became somewhat fascinated with) was the bustling tea delivery business. Turkish tea is a huge part of the culture throughout the country. Tea is most often consumed in Turkish households – offering it to guests is a part of Turkish hospitality. It’s no different in the Bazaar; the custom of drinking tea blends the important tradition hospitality with the other main component for drinking the tea – the social congregation of men. Tea runners (as I was calling them) would skillfully whisk past the crowds and deliver un-spilled tea by balancing the cups on a tray with a long handle. What fascinated me the most was that I never saw any money exchanged for the tea. I imagined the tea runners marking how much tea a merchant drank and collecting on the tab at the end of the week. I have searched the internet to prove or disprove my theory of a “tab” system – but I could not find anything. Any Turkish merchants or Tea Salesmen reading this – please weigh in.
Guys like these would run all over the market, delivering tea
*photo credit – flickr: photographer unknown
We spent hours navigating the maze that is the Grand Bazaar before we realized the sun was setting. Our intention was to walk the city around after we’d shopped. We had the flexibility to stay out as long as we liked because our ship wasn’t leaving until the next day; although we agreed that we were ready to head “home” for the night and set out early the next day. It turns out that it was a good thing we did! The ship was hosting a Turkish Taraf – a poolside party complete with live music, a Turkish belly-dancer, exotic drinks and spicy kebabs. An outdoor pool party is always a great thing, but if you have the shimmering city lights and uplight mosques of Istanbul framing the backdrop (and did I mention the belly-dancer), there is no greater party combination in the world (this is coming from the guy that was basically the President of Parties in college).
A variety of wine was served at the party – live band in the background
The Blue Mosque at night
The quarter moon looked exactly like quarter moon on the Turkish flag
They were grilling authentic Turkish food
The belly dancer takes the stage
She recruited guests to help her move and move their own hips
The pool was decorated with lights
The crew dressed the part
The scenery was beautiful
The next day we got an early start – with so much of the city left to take in, we wanted to get in as much as physically possible. We decided we would try to beat most of the crowds and start with the mosque’s. Specifically, the Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque – which sit opposite one another. We only ended up touring the Sultan Ahmed Mosque – or Blue Mosque, as it’s commonly called due to it’s blue tiles that adorn the inside walls. The mosque’s construction began in 1609 when it was commissioned by Sultan Ahmed I to not just rival the Hagia Sophia, but to surpass it. The mosque has an unprecedented six minarets (still the only mosque in Istanbul with six to this day), which garnished the wrath of the public. The display of six minarets was preserved for the Prophet’s mosque in Mecca – therefore the Sultan was criticized for incorrectly thinking that he was the man. The prevailing urban legend is that there was a miscommunication in which the Sultan told his architect he wanted gold minarets (altin minare) and the architect understood six minarets (alti minare). Seems fishy to me – sounds like he concocted a scapegoat to shift the heat off himself. Ultimately, he corrected the situation by shelling out the dough to build a seventh minaret on the Prophet’s mosque in Mecca. Whatever the correct history, it was fascinating to absorb in the first person.
We started our day before the city really woke up – just shop keepers setting up
Sulton Ahmed Mosque (the Blue Mosque)
Approaching the mosque
We had fun playing in front of a fountain
Julia steals my hat – I guess she wanted to block the sun
Hagia Sophia Mosque
All female visitors are required to wear proper garments
The ceiling and some of the blue tiles that are the reason for the nickname, Blue Mosque
The mosque sees a large number of visitors every day
It’s impossible not to gaze upward at the amazing display of over 20,000 handmade tiles
Jen and Julia in the mosque
Family photo in the mosque
Another family photo
After the mosque tour, we headed northeast by foot to the Topkapi Palace. The palace was the primary residence of Ottoman Sultans for over 400 years. To this day, the residence consumes more land mass along the shoreline than any other single property and has been deemed by UNESCO as “the best example of ensembles of places of the Ottoman period.” We were very excited to see the palace, but unfortunately it was closed and so we had to settle for a stroll through the public gardens.
Inside the gardens of the Topkapi Palace
This unique tree appeared as if it had tattoos
After a long walk to our next destination, we first wanted to stop and have lunch. I had been dying for one thing since arriving in Turkey – a döner kebab. We found a restaurant that looked perfect and ducked inside for lunch. Just prior to walking in, we heard the adhan, called out by the muezzin from mosques across the city – amplified by loudspeakers. More commonly known in English as the call to prayer, this unique chant is called out five times a day, summoning Muslims for mandatory worship. After lunch we entered the famous Spice Bazaar – the center for spice trade in Istanbul. The market is the city’s second largest covered market behind the Grand Bazaar.
Döner kebab – a mixture of meat, usually veal and or beef with lamb and sometimes chicken
The only thing better than a freshly made döner kebab is one that you slice yourself!
Entering the Spice Bazaar
Merchants showcase their wares, including the ever-popular, Turkish Delight
Here you can find most all spices, from hot curry to sweet paprika
The markets in Istanbul seemed endless – this is departing the Spice Bazaar
The ship hosted another party, this time a “sail away” party that included wonderful wine
As well as delectable and authentic treats
After our trip to the bustling city of Istanbul, a little bit of unplugging was just what we needed. We easily accomplished this on the island of Lesbos, Greece. This Greek island in the northern part of the Aegean Sea is Greece’s third largest, with a bustling capital (Mytilene) and 200 miles of coast line). Some ports were too small for our monolithic cruise ship, and so we had to use the tender system. All large cruise ships are equipped with smaller boats that can transport passengers from the ship to land when arriving in smaller ports of call. Generally, you are assigned a group number (depending on how quickly you arrive to collect it) and then send ashore in that order. Surprisingly, we arrived fairly early and got to shore just in time to snatch up one of the few remaining tiki huts on the beach. After that, it was clear sailing – nothing but relaxing and sitting in the crystal clear water. Oh, and one more thing… skipping stones. The ocean was just full of perfect stone-skipping rocks. I could easily average six skips but got as high as fourteen skips – the crowing achievement of the day, only to be topped by making the final table at the Casino’s Blackjack Tournament later that night.
We rode in the tender to get to Lesbos
A view of our boat from the tranquil setting under our beach umbrella
Julia poses for a picture
Skipping rocks with Daddy
Julia wanted to try on her now – she almost got the hang of it
The water was so clear it was fun to just soak
Family toesies
The sun wore Julia out – she was asleep on the ride back
Two beers and a cigar – oh man, oh man! Relaxing on the ship as we sail away
I’m posing for a picture with my girl, little did I know what she was up to under my hat!
Blackjack tournament final table. Got knocked out doubling down on 10 against a dealer 6. It would have given me an unbeatable chip stack with three hands left. The winner had no idea what he was doing which put me on tilt
The casino would send up desserts and bottles of wine with their compliments. Perhaps I was too frequent of a visitor??
We still have plenty more adventure to come… please tune back in to the final section of our cruise in the next post.
