Category Archives: Julia

Buon Natale (Merry Christmas)

This was predestined to be a low-key Christmas.  In fact, the most low-key Christmas either of us had ever experienced.  When I was young, we would gather as a family and open mountains of presents before our grandparents came and joined in the fun.  Jen’s experience of Christmas as a little girl was no different.  Since we started dating over ten years ago, our two families have merged and we have always made the holidays the grand event it should be.  Since it’s just the three of us here in Italy, we knew this year would be small in comparison.  But at the same time, we were eager to set our own family traditions now that Julia is old enough to understand what’s going on.
Our low-key Christmas

We developed a plan based on our vision of how we wanted the day to unfold (OK, OK.  Jen’s vision… Jen’s plan.  I just helped when possible).  Fortunately, our low-key Christmas did not disappoint.  First we had to set up the tree, which we did well before the big day.  We capped that evening off with popcorn (a real treat for Julia) and a movie (The Polar Express).

Julia strikes a fashionable pose after I set the tree in place
She helps her mother trim the tree
Then it’s time for a break and a Christmas movie

On Christmas morning, we struggled to roll out of bed – still full from an epic Christmas Eve dinner the night before.  We could barely keep out in front of Julia with the camera flashing and the video rolling.  She was beyond eager to see what Santa brought her and went for his presents first.

Julia opens a present from Babbo Natale (Santa Claus)
“It’s a SAXOPHONE?!”
“Is this how it works?”
“Oh, no – like this!”
Jen takes a picture with Julia, but I think she’s more interesting her Peppa Pig chocolate bar
“Wow, a guitar too?!”
“Are you for real?  Is this for ME?!” 
“I can be my own band – bring my my microphone, please!”

After opening Santa’s musical gifts, she next moved onto the gifts from her nonni (Jen’s parents) and her Grandma and Pop-Pop (my parents).  Franco and Claudia (Jen’s aunt and uncle that live above us) came down for part of the gift opening.  We took a brief pause for breakfast – it was already 9:00am and the Italians from upstairs were freaking out that they were eating off-schedule. Jen fixed a delicious french toast casserole, made even better with sciroppo d’acero (maple syrup – which is not easy to find in Italy).  She served it with fresh fruit and cappuccino.  Franco and Claudia retired upstairs after breakfast and we helped Julia open her remaining presents.  We spent a pleasant afternoon playing with Julia and her new booty.  Later that evening, we hosted Franco and Claudia for dinner.  We put on a simple spread – real Italian comfort food.  Antipasti followed by brodo con tortellini and simple salads.

Julia works on removing her brand new Furby from Nonna
Julia plays with her new cash register from her accountant, Pop-Pop
Jen’s breakfast
Julia and I jam out after breakfast

The day after Christmas is the day of Santo Stefano – another good reason for families to gather and feast once again.  This time, Franco and Claudia wanted to host the whole family.  This included our family, as well as the families of Franco’s sons – Massimo and Gianni.  We all gathered at the standard lunch time and feasted on antipasti (many, many appetizers), primi (a choice of pasta bolognese or zuppa di pesce – my choice was both), secondi (an arrosto di vitello and a turkey that Jen prepared at the request of Gianni).  Of course there were plenty of contorni (side dishes) and wonderful wine.  When the traditional panettone was served, Gianni thought it would be fun to whip up some crema al mascarpone (mascarpone cream), which we also put in our espresso.

The table is set for the family
Jen brought up some dates stuffed with mascarpone & formaggio di capra, wrapped in prosciutto
One of our favorite types of antipasto – spicy peppers stuff with tuna.  Try before you judge, it’s delicious
Julia dressed up in some of her fancy new princess treasures
Gianni’s wife, Giussi helps him whip up some crema al mascarpone
It made for a delicious topper on our espresso

You may think the fun is over by now… but you see – Italians know how to keep a good thing going (i.e. our six-hour meal on Christmas Eve).  It should come as no surprise that extending their holidays are no different.  On January 6th, La Festa dell’Epifania (The Epiphany) marks the final celebration of the season.  Just as Santa Claus often overshadows the birth of Christ, so too does the candy-weilding Befana monopolize the day God revealed his son as a human being.  Oh well, presents and candy are certainly more fun than religion and history – especially for a child.  Just as Santa flies in his sleigh to deliver presents to the world’s boys and girls, the Befana flies on her broom to leave candy in the socks of children.  Although she hasn’t quite racked up the amount of frequent flyer miles as the big guy – she always stops at the border of Italy.  Just like her bearded counterpart, she even leaves coal for the bad kids.  Although they don’t really come out empty handed – it’s actually carbone dolce (candy shaped coal… which turns out to be pure sugar… as well as my coffee sweetener this past week).

The Befana visits Julia
“Just look at this spread!”

Of course, we missed our friends and family this year – but as far as low-key Christmases go, we sure had a lot of fun (and great food)!

Christmas in Italy – Bring on the Festivals!

“It’s the most wonderful time of the year”… and that means so many things!  It means snow flakes and Christmas lights.  It means cold weather and hot chocolate.  It means Santa Claus and stockings stuffed with goodies.  When you live in Europe, it also means tremendous Christmas markets and delicious vin brulè (cooked wine, usually sold on the streets).  Over the past couple weeks, we have been taking advantage of it all!  Because Christmas is only four days away – I will spend the next four days posting about our Christmas fun.  In order to do that, I have to bend my “unbreakable rule” and publish blog posts out of order.  I’ll fast-forward to Christmas and then flash back to some exciting posts that I have in the pipeline.

Oh bej!  Oh bej!

No, you don’t have to say “gesundheit”!  I didn’t sneeze.  That is the name of a festival held each year in Milan, spanning from December 7th through the following Sunday.  How did it get that wonderful name, you ask?  “Oh bej!  Oh bej!” means, “oh so nice!  Oh so nice!” in the Milanese dialect.  It is by far, the most important Christmas festival held in Milan.  December 7th is the day of the Patron Saint of Milano, Santo Ambrogio.  The festival is said to date back all the way to 1510.

Vendors line the streets during Oh Bej!  Oh Bej!

We arrived in Milan early and parked far outside of the central zone.  You would think that living just outside of Milan for nearly a year would make me an expert driving in the city.  It’s quite the opposite, in fact.  I’m even more gun-shy now than I was when I first moved here.  Driving through limited zones and parking in residential areas has cost me hundreds of euros in fines.  So this time, I didn’t chance it – we parked in a garage outside the central zone and hoofed it just over a mile. The brisk winter weather was cold on our faces, but the fresh air and excitement of the day filled us with an energetic warmth.

Our first stop was the Basilica of Sant’Ambrogio, the basilica commissioned by and named after Milan’s Patron Saint.  Construction of the basilica began in 379, making it among the oldest and most significant churches in Milan.  Since we were in the city on the actual day of Sant’Ambrogio, there was a large service being held in the basilica.

Basilica Sant’Ambrogio named for Milan’s Patron Saint, Santo Ambrogio
There was a large church service being held, even though it was a Saturday

Next, it was time for us to see the festival and enjoy some of my favorite things – vendor food and vin brulè!  In the center of the city stands the Sforza Castle, a medieval fortification built in the 15th century.  Here in the 21st century, the fortification plays host to hundreds of vendors that encircle the great castle walls.  Over 400 vendors vie for the attention of shoppers looking for food, crafts, Christmas ornaments, books and so much more.  We got a couple wonderful pannini (sandwiches) and jockeyed for a spot to enjoy them.  After lunch and some shopping, we walked through the gates of the castle and explored the courtyard.

Over 400 vendors flanked the ancient castle walls
The best roasted chestnuts come from the back of trucks
There were literally dozens of stands with delicious Sicilian treats
A stand full of artisanal goods
I picked us up a couple sandwiches – porchetta and salamelle
Salamelle panino
After her first bite, Julia decided she didn’t want to share – I couldn’t blame her
A fountain sprays in front of Sforza Castle
We went inside to explore the courtyard
Jen holds Julia tight in a crowd full of people

When we had our fill of the market, we strolled down Via dei Mercanti toward the Duomo.  No trip to Milan would be complete without seeing one of the most amazing architectural examples of our age. The Duomo is particularly special during Christmas time.  Ablaze with sparkling lights and framed behind a giant Christmas tree, you can’t help but become filled with Christmas spirit.

Duomo di Milano

The festival just whet our appetites for all the Christmas fun that we would enjoy.  I hope that I’ve been able to do the same for you.  We still have so much left to explore together, including the Christmas markets of Switzerland and a tour of some of Italy’s “best towns for Christmas.”  Plus, I got an early present… I hope that you’ll help me unwrap it.  I’ll give you a hint –  it’s got four wheels, two doors and 572 horsepower!  Grab a warm cup of vin brulè and get comfy (oh yeah, we’ll give you a recipe for that too) – we’ve still got a lot of exploring Christmas time in Europe left to do.

“I Would Sail 2,700 Nautical Miles and-a I Would Sail 2,700 More…”

Admit it… you sang the title in your head, complete with the voice raising on the “and-a I”

I love to cruise.  Jen loves to cruise.  And now… Julia absolutely loves to cruise.  We have very few experiences aboard cruise ships, but each time we’ve been on one of these massive floating hotels (or mini-floating city’s… I couldn’t choose between adjectives – you pick your favorite), we feel like royalty.  We know that we will chose this method of vacation many more times in our lives.  Cruising requires little planning and you are always rewarded with the very best customer service, the opportunity to see many more cities than you normally could in a given time period, endless activities aboard the ship, wonderful food, the benefit of unpacking only once and perhaps best of all – a very affordable vacation (you can get very good deals if you hawk the last-minute deal sites).

Our ship – Holland America’s MS Nieuw Amsterdam

The first time that Jen and I took a cruise was on our honeymoon.  We spent three weeks sailing around South America (from Buenos Aires, Argentina all the way around Cape Horn and on to Santiago, Chile).  I chose Norwegian Cruise Line (NCL) for our first cruise, primarily because the itinerary was perfect and I found it to be reasonably priced.  I wasn’t nearly the internet-nerd I am today and so I did little research beyond that.  We had a wonderful vacation, ate way too much food, enjoyed some lovely scenery (I have thousands of pictures to prove it) and had an absolute blast.  However, I had no idea how amazing cruising could really be until we recently boarded Holland America’s, MS Nieuw Amsterdam (pronounced, n-e-w); one of the newer ships in their fleet.

Boarding the Nieuw Amsterdam

I had a few checklist items when we moved abroad – things I wanted to do and to see.  Experiencing a cruising-adventure was definitely on that list.  For the first time in our lives, we had the flexibility to really take advantage of a “last-minute” vacation, and so the plan was to use that to our full advantage.  Unfortunately, we discovered that having a child prevents you from really getting those steep 70% off discounts you see flashing on the side of your favorite webpages.  Some cruise lines require a child to pay a full fair.  Others require that he or she have a special room or special bed.  Either way, it seemed that the myth of really inexpensive cruising (at least with a child) was just that – a myth.  Eventually, we searched for dates further into the future (ensuring the ability to book a room that could accommodate a small child) and narrowed our choice down to two cruises with two very different itineraries on two very different cruise lines.

Could this little peanut (eating until her heart is content) actually prevent us from finding our perfect cruise?!
“Who me?!  No way, Dad.  Now, let’s EAT!”

World travelers and vacation aficionados – here’s where you need to pay attention.  I am going to share two valuable resources I discovered throughout this process.  First, I had been paying a fortune in cell phone bills, calling these various companies to get accurate information about their cruises.  Then I stumbled across, gethuman.com – an internet based voiceover IP company that allows you to call most major companies from your computer – for free!  I have spent this past year calling American Express, Visa, Wells Fargo and other companies at a cost of roughly €10 per call… just to get past the automated prompts! This site has revolutionized my ability to manage tasks at home while living abroad.  Second, we discovered cruisecritic.com – the ultimate guide when selecting a cruise.  Consider it the yelp or trip advisor of the sea.  This site allows you to plug in any cruise line and read reviews – but more importantly it allows you to search specific cruise ships, ranking everything on that unique vessel from the food to the service – ultimately awarding the ship a nice, neat approval percentage number.  It’s all very easy and streamlined.  What I learned was that a cruise line can offer a vastly different experience aboard any number of their ships (for example, an older ship with lesser quality food may not be nearly as pleasant as one of their newer ships).  Therefore, we learned that the ship itself is more important than the cruise operator.  And we learned this lesson just in time.  I was on the phone with Costa (the losing company), about to book our cruise.  I had selected this particular cruise because of the funky itinerary.  In addition to the “normal” places, we would have ventured into Ukraine, Romania and Bulgaria.  I was moments away from giving my credit card number when Jen motioned at me frantically, having just discovered this particular ship only had a 54% approval rating.  I got off the call as quickly as possible and called Holland America, booking aboard the Niew Amsterdam.

Julia evaluates one of the rooftop pools – this one was located midship

Our cruise departed from Venice, and so we took the three hour train from our home.  We were in no rush to get into Venice early, having been there on previous occasions.  We bypassed the throngs of tourists vying for photos of the canals and simply went right to the ship.  We stayed in Venice’s port the first night, but set sail early in the morning.  As we sailed through the Canale Della Giudecca in the middle of the city (I had no idea that it was deep enough to accommodate our massive ship), our fabulous Location Guide, Tom gave a memorable and insightful tour of everything that we were seeing.  I apologize in advance for the pictures, I only had Jen’s cell phone with me – poor planning.

Sailing past another ship in the harbor
From high atop our cruise ship – we could see the entire city unfold before our eyes
A beautiful view of Santa Maria della Salute and the Campanile of Piazza San Marco
From this height we could actually look down and across Piazza Saint Marco – a very unique perspective
Here you can see many of the 118 different islands that make up Venice

Our first full day aboard the ship was a Sea Day, which means exactly that – we were at sea all day.  This is wonderful portion of the cruise for anyone that likes to eat, gamble, drink, workout, spa, play in the pool, attend cooking courses, read, mingle, do nothing, do everything…. you get the point.  I think I hit about four or five of those things in the first three hours – eating and gambling at the top of the list.

We woke up early, eager to start the day – but Julia reminds us not to wake our neighbors
We enjoyed a cooking demonstration
Posing with the Chef and Activities Coordinator
Julia would stop and watch this duo, Adagio perform each night after dinner
We hoped that lady luck would find Julia
Julia treats me to a kiss during one of the “formal nights”

The following morning was a real treat – our first Port Day.  We were at port in Katakolon, Greece, which was just a short bus ride away from something you may have heard of… Olympia, Greece.  As in… the place the very first Olympic Games were ever held.  As in, the place that contains the ruins of Zeus’ temple.  And so I was a little geeked-up to see it all.  I didn’t have to imagine standing in the very first olympic stadium – where the worlds best athletes competed since the 8th century BC; we actually got to do it.  It was very awe-inspiring.

Our first sunrise at port
We strolled through Katakolon before our bus departed for Olympia

Travel-bugs… please allow me to give you another tip.  If you are reading this post and thinking, “Greg is making a convincing argument for a cruise… I think I’ll give it a go”; don’t make the mistake many cruise-goers make.  Do not book excursions through the cruise directly.  Sure, it’s easier.  Some may say safer.  Others may tell you they’re better designed.  That’s all true… but at an immense premium.  Please allow me to state my case.  Below is one of the excursion options at our first port (copied from Holland America’s site).  Just skim it if you’d like… I’ll recap:

The small fishing village of Katákolon is your gateway to the mystical site of ancient Olympia, 25 miles to the east. The sanctuary of Olympia has the appearance of a park, and as you step back 2,000 years into the past, imagine the area crowded with athletes, orators, merchants and philosophers surrounding the Temple of Zeus with its forty-foot statue of the god, the ruins of which you will see today. It’s easy to imagine the roar of the spectators as the athletes took their marks on the marble starting blocks, and to picture the temples, treasuries, porticoes and statues as they were. After your visit to Olympia, you will continue to Mercouri Estate, known not only for its wines of supreme quality but also for its magnificent location. This is the area where the Refosco grape was first planted after being imported from Italy. In 1930, the Mercouris built a modern winery and distillery, updated again in 1990 with the latest technology. You are invited to experience the beauty and charm of the vineyards, to see the old and new wineries, and also to taste the locally produced wines.

OK – so you get a bus ride with 40 other schmoes to Olympia, gate access and a wine tasting.  It’s very well written and this guy is singing a sweet sirens song – but he couldn’t lure me.  Guess what it costs… $150 per person plus $60 for kids.  OK – so we’d be all in for $360.  Guess what we did?  We got off the ship, walked over to the person selling bus tickets to Olympia (the same cushy travel bus with A/C and TV’s that the cruise people take) and bought both tickets for $20.  Then another $20 at the gate and I’m all in for $40.  A savings of $320.  With that much left in my pocket, I had my choice of any number of Greek wines “known for their supreme quality” that we picked up at Duty Free on the way back to the ship.

We stop for a family photo in front of the Palaestra
Julia does a little dance number
Ruins of the Theokoleon
A lone column capital (top) remains… 1,000 years old?  2,000 years old?  2,500 years old??
I stop to stand in front of the Temple of Hera
Jen and Julia challenge competitors on the Stadium ground
Lost amongst the rocks in front of the Temple of Zeus
Another view of the Theokoleon
Impressive remains of the Philippeion

The next day we woke up in Piraeus, Greece – which is the port city outside Athens, Greece.  Same thing as before – I bypassed the tempting, but expensive excursions and departed with Jen and Julia in tow.  We walked around the corner and found that the Greek Gods were smiling on us that day.  In addition to the regular cabs and buses to take us the 20 minutes into Athens, there were “Hop On-Hop Off” open-top tour buses.  That meant we would get a ride, an audio tour and the ability to come and go as we pleased, all for $30.

Athens is an amazing city with a recorded history spanning 3,400 years

We rode around Athens, enjoying our tour and chuckling to ourselves at the Greek music they kept playing over and over (imagine the soundtrack to “My Big Fat Greek Wedding” on repeat).  My plan was to complete the loop and finish the audio tour before getting off, but when I saw the majesty of the Parthenon, I knew we needed to depart the bus immediately.

The Parthenon sits atop the Acropolis of Athena

The Parthenon is the featured temple within the Acropolis of Athena; a temple built to honor the Goddess, Athena.  Construction of the temple began in 447 BC and today it is widely considered the most important surviving building from Ancient Greece.  In order to reach the temple, you must climb the imposing slate steps to reach the Acropolis of Athens, an ancient citadel set high atop a rocky outcrop far from today’s modern Greece.  But before we climbed the steps of the Acropolis, we first climbed a neighboring cliff for a view of the magnificent ancient city and the more modern one below.

Athens has roughly 3.2 million inhabitants – Greece’s largest city by a wide margin
Hundreds of visitors passing through the gates of the Acropolis
Ancient ruins are a part of the city – even as modern urban sprawl is built around it
Some more “modern” temples perched atop their own cliffs
My girls begin their ascent
Julia fights the wind and I steal a kiss
I think Athena herself would have been pleased to have this little guest in her temple
As we climbed the steep incline of the Acropolis toward the temples, we narrowly missed slipping and sliding back down to the bottom.  The slate steps were slick even though they were bone dry – I couldn’t imagine making the climb if it had rained.  There were many sights to see, including the amazing expanse of a remarkable city below.  We marched through the ancient doorway leading into the city and stopped for a rest and some photos.
Odeon of Herodes Atticus – a steep sloped amphitheater built in 161 AD
The southern wall remains well intact
Julia lets me kiss her for all of Athens to see
The Parthenon – Temple of Athena
It’s amazing how well the Parthenon has been preserved
Julia pays her respects to the Greek flag
Family photo in front of the Parthenon

While the Parthenon is clearly the star of the show within the Acropolis, there are many other important ancient buildings and temples.  The Greek word Acropolis (Ακρόπολη) is made up of two components – akron, meaning “edge” and polis, meaning “city”.  While there are many other Acropolis’ within Greece, it is commonly accepted that the Acropolis of Athens is the Acropolis in all of Greece.  From the moment we walked through the gateway into the city, I truly felt as if I was transported into an ancient, mythical world – where Gods and Goddesses ruled from on high.  Perhaps I have seen too many movies, but I really did feel as though I was apart of something far bigger than I’ve ever known.  I think I was even annoying Jen a bit with my enthusiasm and newfound feeling of power (as if I was somehow apart of the world of The Gods and could strike down any mere mortal…).  It was probably good that I got out of there when I did, lest I try to actually smite someone.

The Erechtheum – a Temple for both Athena and Poseidon built between 421 and 406 BC
The Porch of the Caryatids (maidens) built to conceal a 15 foot support beam
Another view of the Erechtheum from the south west

We had worked up quite the appetite touring the Acropolis and so we descended the ancient city toward a more modern part of town.  We found a charming pedestrian area of the modern city and stopped for a lunch of what else… Greek salad!  We drank a couple of refreshing Greek beers and then strolled through the ample markets.

Greek salad – the authentic way!

Finally, we boarded the ship and set sail for our next adventure…  I hope you’ll hop back aboard for Part II (coming soon)!

Our Piccola Principessa Turns Two

Julia has officially been our favorite little peanut for two years now!  It seems like just yesterday that we were having fun at her first birthday party in DC and only a blink before that when she first held my hand in the hospital delivery room.  And now it was already time for another birthday!
Our birthday girl one year ago
What a difference a year makes!
Also, what a difference a country makes – birthday cake last year, tiramisu this year!
Jen’s parents and sister were happy they were here for the big day.  We’d already had tons of fun together, which you can read about HERE.  We had just gotten back from a trip to Abruzzo the day before (HERE) and we had to make quick work getting everything together for her party.  It was going to be low key – just some family over for a few snacks and cake.  If you know my wife and mother-in-law, you’ll know that “low key” was not easy for them.  Dominic and I had to keep reminding them it was just a small gathering – no need for their always impressive party-planning skills to be put to the test.
The room is ready… Julia passes the time on momma’s phone.  Nonno passes the time sneaking a snack
The table is set – just munchy things, Italian style
A little outdoor space for anyone who wished to take in the sun
Julia’s cake and some extra pastry that Dom picked up as a special surprise
Buon Compleanno – Happy Birthday!  I bet they had to check the spelling twice; here it’s spelled Giulia
We hosted everyone on the Sunday before Julia’s birthday because it worked better than the actual date itself (a Tuesday).  We strung balloons and decorations.  We put out the food and we displayed the cake (which happened to be the most delicious torte I’ve ever had).  The family all arrived and aperitivi where distributed.  The party was fun and most importantly, Julia enjoyed it.  She loved opening all her presents and had a great time playing with her cousins.
Julia sports her pretty party dress
“Oh yeah, I’m ready to party!”
Dominic (aka Mimmo, aka Nonno, aka Dom) gives a very nice toast
“Cin, Cin!  I’ll drink to that!”
The cousins pose for a family photo
Julia with Jen’s Zio (uncle) Franco and Zia (aunt) Claudia
Julia wouldn’t give up her fake ice cream cone even though she had the real deal right in front of her
Zia Jess helps Julia with some of her new toys
Julia had a blast opening her presents
On the actual day of her birthday, the entire family went over to Agriturismo Cassinazza, a local agriturismo behind our home.  An agriturismo is essentially an agriculturally-based operation that draws clientele in to view (or even participate in) their operations (which can be any combination of farming, livestock, etc.).  Additionally, it can (and usually is) combined with lodging and/or dining.  So, in most cases – you can stay in the agriturismo (like a bed and breakfast) as well as eat there (in their restaurant, which usually serves some of the freshest food you’ll find).  We have found that these are some of the best restaurants and charming hotels as we have been navigating our way through Italy.  So, to have such a nicely maintained one behind our home is a real treat.  Their restaurant was simply amazing and we had a wonderful lunch.
The two prettiest girls this blogger has ever seen!
“Momma… cavalli (horses)”
Agriturismo Cassinazza has beautiful animals
Jess and Julia stop for a quick photo
Julia goes for a swing
But I think she found something more interesting to her left
Agriturismo Cassinazza is a wonderful place to stay or dine
Inside their courtyard, the tables were set for lunch
They even produce their own wine
Julia plays at lunch – being the center of attention is nothing new for her
“Now this is the kind of cake I can get into…”
“Yeah, I meant that literally!”
Everyone together after lunch
After lunch, we were poking around the grounds, showing Julia the animals when one of the workers saw us and guided us into a private area in the back.  Within the little fenced area were chicks, ducks, turkeys and a few other little creatures that were all simply wonderful to play with.
She only wore her crown for a little while
Petting a baby duck
Julia was fascinated by the animals
She was tickled by how quick they were
Nonna coaxes Julia into kissing one of the baby ducks
I think she was in heaven herself!
We had two wonderful days celebrating our little girl, but we didn’t have much time before we would be back on the road… Diane’s ancestors in Scotland were calling (probably with a mouth full of haggis) and we were about to respond!  Our plane to Scotland was departing in just a few days…

What’s the French Riviera Without a Gold Yacht?

It’s been a long time since I completed a blog post.  So long, that for some reason – I’m a bit nervous (strange, my friends will tell you that I love to talk about myself).  So I’ve been procrastinating.  I have organized my DVD drawer.  I carefully tended to the plants (I’ve discovered I love gardening…in small doses).  And the past few days, I have been playing Mr. Mom while Jen is in California for work.  I have done just about everything to avoid writing on the blog for the past month… and the only thing I’ve come to realize is that I now have a mountain of work ahead of me.

A mountain in Beaulieu-Sur-Mer, not completely unlike my mountain of work

It’s not that I’ve just been procrastinating.  We’ve been busy.  I mean, very busy.  Albeit, busy doing more of the same (traveling, eating, drinking, etc.) – but still always experiencing something new.  So, please grant me the excuse of allowing the experience to get in the way of the blog – just this one time! In the coming days and weeks, you will hear of our wonderful trip to visit our good friends in France; the visit from Jen’s family and the upcoming visit with my parents.  I’ll toss in a few food posts and hopefully a feature on where we’ve been living (which has been in the pipeline since I started this blog).  So let’s get this party started… no more delays.  And so, it begins with a trip to France…

When I last left you, my sister and her family had come to visit.  We had a short window between their departure and the arrival of our next guests, Jen’s parents and sister.  The timing was perfect, because good friends of ours, Michel and Shirley arrived at their home in Sablet, France just days before this brief “window”.  They had graciously invited us to their home and we both jumped at the chance to see France through their eyes.  We decided to take the circuitous route, passing by the sea and staying overnight in a small town along the French Riviera before joining them in what could easily be called, vin de pays (wine country).

Scenery along the drive

The drive from our home to the French Riviera was only a few hours (we were pleased to learn this – we hope to embark on a repeat journey while we’re here).  We first passed through a small portion of the Italian Riviera before crossing into France.  The landscape was stunning – windy roads encased by a vast ocean on our left and coarse mountains to our right.

The plan was simple – stop by Monte Carlo, Monaco for a little while before continuing to Beaulieu-Sur-Mer, where we had made hotel reservations.  My secret plan that I kept to myself was also simple.  Take Jen and Julia to the world-famous Monte Carlo Casino and win thousands of dollars in mere moments while they both waited and applauded.  Needless to say, when I presented that plan I was shot down.  Strange, I always thought I could sell anything.  Something about a baby in a Casino… blah, blah, blah.

View as we approached Monte Carlo
 A gold yacht?!  You may think “tacky”.  I think “baaaallllleeerr!”

We had gotten our typical late-start from home and so by the time we got to Monte Carlo we did not have enough time to properly enjoy the city.  We were hungry and eager to stretch our legs, so after a brief drive-through we pushed on to Beaulieu-Sur-Mer, vowing to come back when we had the time to really enjoy Monte Carlo (also, when I had my tuxedo so that I could do my best Bond impression).

I chose Beaulieu-Sur-Mer to stay overnight because Michel had recommended Villefranche-Sur-Mer, the neighboring town.  I liked his recommendation based on the town’s size, proximity to Nice and Monaco, and hotel availability. It fit snugly into my travel plans and so I booked a nice seaside hotel with views of the ocean and mountain.  It wasn’t until I arrived that I realized I actually booked in the neighboring town. Oh, well – c’est la vie (that’s life).  It turned out to be a nice blessing, because “our” town was beautiful and couldn’t have made for a better overnight stay.

View of the marina from our balcony
View of the mountain from our balcony
Our pool that we didn’t have time to use
Same marina view at night – loved the night sky
Same mountain view at night

Upon checking in, we asked the young lady at the front desk where we should eat lunch.  She stumbled over her answer and said that “maybe you could go to the marina, or maybe you could go into town” but she wasn’t quite sure which way either of those things were (FYI – the marina was literally across the street and town was ten minutes north by foot).  I quickly dismissed her recommendations and we ventured off on our own (ever get that “this person has no idea” feeling before they’re even done talking?).  Maybe it’s the language barrier you say?  I hope not – she was from Southern California.

Jen and Julia in front of the marina across from our hotel
A different marina nearby
Making me wish I knew how to sail

We took off in the direction opposite of her suggestion and found ourselves in one beautiful setting after another.  My camera flashed on Julia and the scenery like I was a photographer from the National Geographic (sadly, my pictures turned out to be of slightly lower quality).  We made our way into the center of town and purchased a bottle of wine to enjoy on our balcony later that night.  We ate a light snack in lieu of lunch and continued to explore on our own whilst waiting for our restaurant of choosing to open their doors for dinner.  We found a Casino (a-ha!) and I was able to convince Jen that a few hands of blackjack were just what the doctor ordered!  Julia was asleep in her carriage and it was just the angle I needed to close the deal.  Sales record intact!  Sadly, it was closed for renovation – a disappointing turn of events that cost me hundreds of euro’s (or saved me, depending on your view of gambling).

A park we passed
Kissing my baby
Wonder what that says, too bad it’s in French
Oh, it says “wet paint”!
Julia’s favorite flower is a rose
We found a casino!  Too bad they were closed
Dusk sets in as we walked home after dinner
Street scenes in the evening
Boat scenes at night – we enjoyed walking past all the docked yachts

We ate a delicious dinner at, La Pignatelle, which I’ll feature in a separate piece on some of our favorite French dining experiences.  Finally, we strolled home and enjoyed our balcony before turning in to bed.

The next day, we departed and headed for Michel and Shirley’s home – two hours north of our current location.  We had coordinated our arrival for late afternoon, allowing enough time to travel the twenty minutes southwest into Nice, France for lunch and exploration.  I parked in the center of town and we got out and enjoyed wandering from one end of Avenue Jean Medecin (Nice’s main street and shopping corridor) to the other.  Since Nice is the fifth most populated city in France, a few hours would not be nearly enough to explore properly – but perhaps enough to get a bit of the local flavor.

Nice from afar
You can see the city is quite grand

We followed Avenue Jean Medecin all the way to it’s end, where it nearly intersects with the sea.  We strolled through the markets they have set up (we were very impressed with the French markets throughout our entire time there) and ended up on the beach.

View from the Place Masséna
The Basilique Notre-Dame de Nice is the largest church in Nice
A market was set up besides open-air restaurants
“Can I pull this off?”
Beautiful array of flowers
Large selection of fresh vegetables
Aromatic spices available for purchase

As you may know about Nice, the beaches are not at all nice and sandy, but rather awash with large stones.  It’s charming simply by it’s uniqueness and what’s better – Julia could have all the fun in the world without getting dirty!

Playing in the rocks…errr, playing on the beach
“Look at me!”
“I’m going to throw it”
“I really am…” 
“Nah, just kidding – here you go”
Julia teaching me how to use the camera
Behind the scenes of our photo shoot
Mom and daughter having fun

After lunch on the beach (sandwiches on French bread – my pick, not Jens.  I’d tell you a mini-battle raged over my selection of lunch, but Jen will be mad at me – so it never happened) we walked around a bit more before getting back in the car and departing for a few days with Michel and Shirley.  So far, we were loving what France had to offer.  Much more to come, stay tuned…

The Tallest Man in Italy

I have no proof that when my sister, Michelle came to visit with her husband and daughter (David and Elsa) that he was the tallest man in all of Italy… but I’d say there’s a good shot!  When I picked them up at the airport, I simply looked for the tallest/shortest couple combo possible (he’s a hair over 6’8″ and she’s a modest 5’2″).  I spotted them instantly and helped them get some caffeine before taking them home for our big Italian lunch.
David, Elsa and Michelle – he’s crouching down to make it in the frame

Julia’s younger cousin, Elsa was her newest obsession and she had been excited all week leading up to their visit.  She would wake up every day and scroll to some of the video’s or pictures we had on our iPad and scream “ELSA!”  When the real thing walked (or rather, crawled) through the door – she was like a kid on Christmas.  She couldn’t stop hugging and kissing her.  Although, she had an awkward way of pulling her in by the neck – so much so that we dubbed Julia the, “Scranton Strangler” (you “Office” fans will get the reference).

The girls all reunited – Julia just wanted to kiss Elsa all the time
“Is my cousin trying to strangle me?!”

Michelle and David have a high-paced, action-packed lifestyle in Chicago and they were looking forward to a couple weeks of unplugging from their demanding jobs that they both do so well.  We were happy to accommodate and show them a slow-paced trip filled with lots of good food and wine.  We spent a couple days in the area, taking it easy.  We visited the local park with the girls, we walked around downtown Como, we drove through many of the smaller lake towns.  I showed David my favorite 5k loop and we went running together nearly every morning.  Michelle cracked up one day after her privacy was invaded by our little Julia, somewhere in the beginning stages of potty training.  She barged in and saw Michelle on the “potty” and declared to her, “Michelle… potty… YAHHH!”

The girls playing at the park
Jules sporting a pose in Como
It was drizzling when we went to Menaggio
Getting close to the ducks
Elsa fell in love with Italian food – especially risotto
“Mom, why is Julia always all up on my grill?!”

The day we spent driving around the lake was not the most cooperative of days – the temperature was pleasant, but the views were impeded by a haze and a constant drizzle dampened our tour.  We stopped for a coffee and a leg-strech in one of our favorite towns, Menaggio before two fussy babies told us it was time to get home.  On our way back, the constant drizzle gave us a wonderful gift – a double rainbow!  This was something I’d personally never seen and only heard about in the internet-sensation youtube video.

DOUBLE RAINBOW VIDEO ON YOUTUBE

We pulled over and took about 10,000 photos.  Below are my favorites.

You could really see both rainbows so clearly
The “inside” rainbow landed directly on Bellagio
All the girls
Family photo
David shooting the rainbow

The original plan for Michelle and David’s vacation was to spend a week with us and another week exploring another part of Europe.  We convinced them that it was much easier to just stay with us, making our place the home-base.  So a few days into the trip, they planned to go to Cinque Terre.  Jen and I had plenty to keep us busy around the house so we sent them off exploring on their own.

Levanto (David’s photo)

Cinque Terre is a beautiful gem in the Italian Riveria.  The area consists of five rural fishing villages (the name means, “five lands“) that are interconnected via a pedestrian walkway.  I first discovered this not-so-well-known destination 10 years ago during a study abroad and instantly fell in love.  Today, the popularity of the place has reached stratospheric heights and tourists from all over the world come to see the uniquely beautiful terrain.  While the change in visitors has altered the local landscape and flavor, it does not deteriorate the beauty of the villages themselves.  Michelle and David selected a beautiful B&B in a town just outside Cinque Terre, Levanto which offers beautiful panoramics of the area.  They had such a lovely time that they extended their trip by an extra day to really soak it all up.  I borrowed a few of David’s photos in order to post them.

Momma with her baby
Elsa, the little adventurer

When they returned from their road trip, we spent a few more days locally (the seemingly endless rain kept us close to home) before embarking on another trip, this time all together.  The destination – Tuscany.  The specific area – open ended.  Tuscany is probably the most well known region in Italy.  What many people don’t realize is that it’s quite large with a lot of wonderful places to see.  What you can’t do is pick a bad area, so I was confident that my internet search would yield a choice that was at least suitable for us.  I underestimated just how perfect a location we would discover.  A search across many of my favorite websites for this type of thing (trip-advisor, booking.com, agriturismo.net, etc.) lead me to a B&B in the Chianti region of central Tuscany.  Borgo Sicelle was the perfect place.  The location (midway between Florence and Sienna) offered us a chance to embark on great day trips.  The property (originally an old farmhouse, carefully renovated) allowed us to rent a small apartment with individual rooms and a kitchen.  The owners (Franco and Silvia) were so hospitable that we had everything we could want and more (including pack-n-plays in each bedroom).  I don’t usually use this blog as a forum to recommend places to eat, see or stay (at least not intentionally) – but I will in this case.  If you find yourself in Tuscany, stay at Borgo Sicelle!

Borgo Sicelle from the road
Inside one of the courtyards, showing some of the apartments
Another apartment with their own outdoor tables
One view from the property – the large open patch is a vineyard
Directly across is a small trattoria (restaurant) and next door is a church
Our “front yard”… at least for a few days
The upper terrace

When we arrived, Franco gave us the lay of the land.  He also gifted us a bottle of wine made by his brother-in-law (a Chianti, of course) and helped us get settled in by touring us around his amazing property (complete with several private apartments, infinity pool, multiple terraces, a playground, rec room and more).  He also explained that many of the local restaurants were participating in a pseudo “restaurant-week” where they were offering pre-fix menu’s at discounted prices.  Silvia helped us call and make a reservation at a restaurant, La Torre in Castellina in Chianti, one of the main villages in the area.  We arrived on time for our 7:00pm reservation and didn’t leave until all six courses had been served and we’d had our grappa.  It was close to 11:00pm by the time we got home and got the girls in bed.

Outside the restaurant
Night fell while we were inside
The Rocca of Castellina at night
Another angle of the Rocca
Julia was exhausted by the time we got home

The next day, we all took our coffee outside before setting out on an excursion Franco helped us script. We visited a few of the nearby villages, including a stopover for lunch in Volpaia – a medieval village that is as rich in history and beauty as it is in quality wine.

Coffee on our patio
Exploring Volpaia
We had a wonderful lunch here
After lunch Julia took a stroll
David tried to keep up
The girls had fun together
Julia calling out to the people below
Looking cool with mommy
A street scene in Volpaia
Another street
In the center of town

At the end of the day, we pulled together a nice selection of food (meats, cheeses, olives, sardines, etc.) and dined outside while the sun set behind us.

Rustic dinner we threw together to dine al fresco
About to sit down to dinner
The girls were quick to finish eating so they could play
We loved the sunset
The Tuscan hills came to life with such vibrant colors

The following day we went to Siena, a short 30 minute drive from our hotel.  Siena was settled by the Etrucans between 900 – 400 BC.  Today, it stands as one of the most visited locations in Italy.  The city center has been named a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  Besides the rich art, architecture, museums and cuisine – the city is famously known for Il Palio, a horserace held twice a year in the main square, Piazza del Campo.

Julia and Michelle made matching braids for the day
Inside Piazza del Campo
Teaching Julia how to use the camera
I took her for a walk in the piazza
Michelle with her hands full
Julia ate all of my mint gelatto

At the end of the day, we swung back by Castellina in Chianti to visit the Macellaio (butcher) and pick up some fresh fruit and vegetables.  We had seen Franco using the BBQ the night before and David and I couldn’t get it out of our mind.  Our first choice to grill… a big hunk of cinghiale (boar), a specialty of the Tuscan region.  Unfortunately, the only boar he had in that day was in a salami (which we got – delicious).  For the BBQ, we opted for another Tuscan speciality, bistecca (steak) and salsiccia (sausage).  As David and I approached the grill, we admitted to each other that it had been a while since either of us had grilled using charcoal (hedging in case either of us made a critical error).  We were further handicapped by the fact that the charcoal provided wasn’t the posh, self-burning American kind – but rather some hard-to-light wood variation.  Finally, we both had the gnawing image of Franco’s perfect coals glowing like small pillows delivered straight from Hades the night before.  We managed to get enough of a fire going to grill meat – our manhood was in tact and we delivered perfectly cooked steak and sausage to the family.  Thousands of years of genetic programing proved to be successful.

The butcher wielding his tools
Julia helped us pick our fruit
We had some of the antipasti in front of our “house” before the grilling commenced
Salami (boar salami on the left) and bread
Jen helping us stoke the fire
Our steaks!
A finocchio (fennel) salad
We had learned that we were a “three-bottle” family
Eventually, our time in Chianti came to an end (even after extending an extra day) and we headed back to home to Como.  Sadly, Michelle and David’s visit to Italy had also come to an end and we helped Michelle pack for her flight home the next day.  What about David, you ask?  Well, he must have liked us so much that he stayed an extra night and flew to London the day following day on a business trip.  We were thrilled to host their little family, Julia loved having Elsa and we will always remember that trip to Tuscany as something truly special.

Wherefore art thou Julieta? Oh… Your Home is in Verona

I know its really, “O Romeo, Romeo!  Wherefore art thou Romeo?” but it’s not his home in the middle of Verona that draws thousands of visitors each day; so I took a little creative liberty with the title.  More on our visit to this popular tourist destination in a moment.  Let’s back up and set the stage…

Soaking up the view

Verona is a beautiful city in the Veneto region of Italy, in the Northeast Italy. The capital of Veneto is Venezia (Venice) – the world famous city built on canals.  While Venice is usually one of the most well-known destinations in this part of the country, it should not overshadow Verona – a charming and breathtaking city unto itself.  Since Jen’s parents bought their home in Como a few years ago, Verona has been on our “bucket list” of desired destinations.

Jen’s mom came for a visit in late February and during a break in the cold weather, we decided touring a new city was a great idea.  Since Verona is only two hours away by car and we had been wanting to go, it was an easy selection.  The night before we prepared for a full day’s voyage – plenty of diapers and cheerios… and even a few things for the baby.

We set out early and drove straight toward the center of town.  As we approached the city, we neared a roundabout that was created around one of the original stone gates from the old city – dating back over a thousand years.  Crossing through the roundabout and straight toward the city, a much more modern street lined with homes and street level shops guided us right into the “newer” main gate of the city, under which we drove the car.

The main city gate
We drove through this gate to enter and exit

This particular gate (pictured above) was built in the 16th century to protect the city from invaders.  Verona’s central location lent to wonderful trading routes and heightened the importance of the city throughout Europe (even before Roman times).  It was this critical location that also put it right in the path of invaders and so the walls were built to fortify the city.

We arrived in the city at my favorite time of day – just in time for pranzo (lunch).  We had gone to our trusty advisor, Trip Advisor before departing and already picked a place to eat.  You can read about our wonderful/delicious/frightening/not-delicious-for-me dining experience at Ristorante Greppia HERE.

Ristorante Greppia
Julia was full and happy after lunch

On our way to the restaurant we walked directly into the Arena – an amazing Roman ampitheatre, third in size behind Rome’s Colosseum and the arena at Capua (not sure what that is… I’ll have to check it out).  The ampithere was used for gladiator games, among other things – and is surprisingly still intact.  In fact, it’s still used today in the summer for fairs, theatre and operas.

Verona’s Arena
After lunch we took a stroll through town, toward one of the main piazza (town square), Piazza delle Erbe.  Here are some of the shots of the market, surrounded by the Roman architecture as well as Julia having fun near  fountain.
Markets in Piazza delle Erbe
“Dad, give me some cash to go shopping”
Spices, pasta and cured meats
Julia was happy as could be
Torre (tower) dei Lamberti – 1463

We found ourself on, Via Mazzini – one of the main shopping streets and filled with high end goods.

Gucci, Prada and Dolce Gabbana – Oh My!

As we wound our way through the streets of Verona, we crossed over Ponte Pietro – one of the main bridges exiting the city, spanning the river that borders the northern end of the city .  We found ourselves at the Duomo (the city’s main church), where a funeral was presiding.  It was obviously someone of great wealth and importance – there were hundreds of people in attendance and a beautiful hearse (is that an oxymoron) by none other than the Italian race car, Maserati at the ready.

Ponte (bridge) Pietro
The Duomo
This is the way I want to go out!

We stopped for a coffee (it was now the “coffee hour” of 4:00 and our internal coffee clock alarms were sounding).  Diane enjoyed a tea – a luxury she doesn’t usually get around less forgiving coffee drinkers in the family (tea takes a lot longer to sip than an espresso).  After fueling up, we had one last mission to accomplish – a visit to Casa di Giulietta (Juliet’s house) from the world famous Shakespeare play, Romeo and Juliet.  Of course, in actuality – it’s spelled Giulietta.*  Turns out that three of Shakespeare’s plays were set in Verona – the beauty of the city must have intrigued him.  Or else he got a really good deal on hotel rooms.  Probably used Priceline.

Giulietta’s Balcony – “Romeo o’ Romeo”

Giulietta’s house (which is of course not really her house since she is a fictional character) is contained in a small courtyard, accessed through a dark tunnel.  A few funny traditions have developed at home.  Firstly, it is a must that you sign the wall of the tunnel as you enter the courtyard.  Next, young lovers can memorialize their love by engraving their names on a padlock and attaching it to the gate in the back of the courtyard.  The romantics can write love letters and stick them in the crevices of the adjacent wall or attach them with chewing gum.  And for some reason (I’m assuming love or lust related) you can get in line and touch the bosoms of the female statue in the courtyard.

Tunnel leading to the courtyard
Young lovers inscribe their names on the wall
Julia memorializing her love for her parents

Of course our favorite part of the visit was that our very own Giulietta (which literally means, Little Julia) was a celebrity in her own right.  The courtyard was packed with tourists from Taiwan and China that absolutely loved her and crowded around her to take her picture or pose with her.  Several of them wanted to kiss her on the check for a photo.  And since our little comedian/actress loves an audience – she was happy to oblige her adoring fans!

Paparazzi – smile!
“Nice to meet you, ladies”
The girls in Piazza Bra
Giulietta found her real Romeo

We walked a bit more, stopped for a wonderful gelato (ice cream) and another coffee and headed home.  I would say that Romeo wasn’t the only one to have a great time in Verona.  In fact, given how his love affair ended – I’d say we had a much better time in Verona than good ‘ol Romeo!

*Ironic side note – Jen debated spelling our daughters name the Italian way – G-I-U-L-I-A and I protested that I don’t want her to grow up with people constantly misspelling her name and we agreed on the more common J-U-L-I-A.  Of course, now everyone spells it wrong (assuming it’s Giulia).  We both find it funny and think it’s cute the alternate way while we’re living in Italy.

Who Needs Petting a Zoo?

Our little bumblebee has been busy buzzing all over town – and we were right behind her with cameras and video rolling!  Here are a couple of her recent adventures.  Coincidentally, both stories fit in with the Easter theme perfectly; a fortunate blog occurrence given the upcoming Easter holiday.

Julia’s Egg

Julia’s Egg
Our little family likes it’s morning rituals.  Jen and I enjoy drinking our American coffee (probably the one habit from home we don’t want to give up). Julia likes to chose her own breakfast and then eat it herself (even though half ends up on the floor).  
However, Julia’s favorite morning ritual is going to see the galline (chickens) next door.  Each day, as I back the car out of the garage – Jen and Julia walk next door to “go see the chickens”.  There is a home next to our condo building that has a large chicken coop out back containing about a dozen chickens.  Julia talks to them and calls them over by making clucking sounds.  Sometimes they humor her and peck near her feet and other times they just go right on clucking by.
Julia and her galline (chickens)
On this particular day, Jen and Julia spent a bit more time visiting the chickens since I was out.  All of a sudden, the chicken farmer appeared from around the corner to the delight of Julia and surprise of Jen.  He walked right up to the girls and while Jen was ready to apologize for disturbing the chickens, he greeted Julia with a friendly smile and declared, “aspetta” (“just a moment”).  He disappeared into the chicken coop and started rummaging around, to return a moment later with… a fresh egg!  Julia squealed with delight as he handed her the egg through the fence.  In fact, she could hardly contain her excitement so much so that Jen had to confiscate the golden brown treasure for fear of it being crushed in her hands.  Jen was amazed that the egg was so fresh it was actually still warm.
“What a treasure!”
Julia was beaming with pride as she showed her new treasure to Franco and Claudia (our Aunt and Uncle) upstairs.  However, just mere moments later that she had moved onto something new, as little kids will do (this time it was reading Italian celebrity gossip magazines).  It was this window that gave Jen and Claudia the perfect opening to take the egg and cook it in a pan of creamy butter and velvety extra virgin olive oil.
Un poco olio, burro e sale (a little olive oil, butter and salt)
Ready to eat
Jen declared this particular egg to be the best she had ever tasted – I think Julia certainly agreed!

Sheep, Lamb, Dogs and a Few Donkeys for Good Measure

Jen’s mom arrived in Italy last week for a visit and we have spent a few days just relaxing and enjoying her company.  But we have also spent several days going through the checklist of her favorite Italy/Lake Como activities.
Landing in Milano’s Malpensa airport (MXP)
Todays event was shopping at the luxury outlets in Lugano, Switzerland.  I was preparing myself for a long day of bench-sitting, bag holding and “whichever you prefer, dear” ‘s.  I even made sure my phone was fully charged so that I could play several rounds of “Plants vs. Zombies” on it to mask my boredom.  But there was a miraculous turn of events – the shopping mall had a Casino attached to it!!  So, while le donne (the ladies) spent three-four hours picking out outfits (mainly for Julia) – I was splitting 8’s and doubling down on 10’s.  I have to say… I’ll be happy to take Jen shopping any day of the week!
Even though I had a good run of cards and left happy, Julia came out the big winner with some wonderful outfits from her nonna (grandma).  And even though she’s now ready to walk down the high fashioned streets of Milano this spring – the real gem of the day occurred on our way home from the outlets.
A snow-flecked field full of sheep
We were nearly home when our eyes simultaneously gazed left toward a field full of sheep.  There were sheep herders and sheep dogs keeping the gentle animals from wandering onto the unfenced road.    There were also cute baby lambs and even some donkey’s to keep them all company.  We were perplexed, as we have driven by this field nearly every day and never seen a sheep – let alone hundreds of them. We decided to pull over and let Julia have some fun.
“Will you look at this?!”
“Come here guys… I don’t bite”

After some friendly banter with a wonderful sheep herder, we learned that each year at this time farmers bring their sheep down from the mountains into town.  They come by train, truck and foot.  They arrive early for the Easter holiday, because it is traditional for nearly every family in Italy to serve agnello (lamb) on Easter.  They come down early to give the sheep exercise and strike their deals with the local butchers.

Julia had a wonderful time playing with the sheep – she was able to get right up next to them.
“You’re little, like me!”
She even had fun pretending to be a sheep herder!
“I’ve got this gig down pat”

A Sunday Stroll

What’s a good thing to do on a Sunday?  We thought a stroll by the lake might be the perfect activity.  Jen’s uncle Franco had been telling us about a lake nearby that is an exact 5k and perfect for walking and stroller pushing because it has a paved walkway.
Lago di Segrino

Jen and I had ventured off on our own half a dozen times this past week trying to find this nearby lake. First, we went to Lago di Alserio, because that was the closest.  We discovered a charming new town and another “happy hour” place to try – but alas, the lake was not suited for walking.  Next, we tried Lago di Montorfano and found a place to rent boats and a fun-looking beach bar for the summer time.  But no walking trail.  After a few more failed attempts, we realized that we were never going to find this place on our own, given that this area of Italy is often referred to as the Lake District of Italy.  So Sunday morning we asked Franco if he would show us on google maps the location of the map.  Instead, he volunteered to join us and personally direct us in the car.  And fortunately, Claudia offered to stay home and cook us lunch for our return!

So, off we went… to the correct lake – Lago di Sagrino.

It was a bit colder and even winder than we anticipated originally, so we bundled up tight.   Jen snapped a few photos on her iPhone.

Julia bundled up nice and snug

We had a nice walk and enjoyed some nice scenery.

Willows in the wind
Can you see me hidden by that tree?
Julia insisted she get out and join in the fun for a little while too.  No free rides for that little girl!
Greg, Julia and Franco
And of course, at the end of your walk or run, you’ll need to stop and have your espresso!

Bar on the lake for snacks and coffee
We found a wonderful new activity – so if you enjoy a nice walk or jog, be sure to bring your sneakers when you come visit!