On May 4, 2013 a tornado touched down in the Emilia-Romagna region of Italy. A path of chaos was carved throughout the area best known for a city that inspired a processed meat in the US nowhere near an authentic representation of it’s namesake – Bologna.
One day prior, a different type of tornado touched down in the Lombardia region just north of Emilia-Romagna. Our friends, Nathan and Danielle landed in Milan and a whirlwind of food, fun, wine was about to begin – our own path of chaos would be carved throughout northern Italy.
Our very good friends, Nathan and Danielle
I picked them up at the airport while Jen stayed home to prepare a proper welcome – an Italian pranzo (lunch) done right. We greeted them with an aperitivo (an alcoholic beverage used to stimulate the appetite) and then began stuffing them with salami, prosciutto, lardo (cured meat – basically just pork fat thinly sliced), cheese and olives. Then it was on to the pasta course, with a simple red sauce before our secondo, veal Milanese. Next of course were the salads and then dessert – fresh fruit and pastries we bought that morning. Plenty of wine flowed throughout the meal and we finished with grappa. The only problem… our large lunch had an effect opposite of our intention to keep them awake and perky in order to stave off jet-lag. They were both crying out for a nap, but we were merciless with our plans. We whisked them to downtown Como, where we walked off lunch and eventually made our way to a bar for happy hour outdoors under the sun.
Our next day (and pretty much every day following) was even more action packed than the first. We woke up early and headed to Como to catch the “fast-ferry” to Bellagio. The hydro-foil was going to bring us half-way up Lake Como to one of our favorite towns. Bellagio is often referred to as the Pearl of Lake Como, a very fitting nickname. The beauty of the town inspired the grand casino and resort in Las Vegas that shares the same name. We arrived at the pier a few minutes too late and watched as the faster hydro-foil departed without us. We booked tickets for the next ferry, the slower boat that would take two hours to reach our destination. This turned out to be a blessing in disguise, as we positioned ourselves in the open bow of the boat (we later learned the faster boat was entirely enclosed) and spent a full two hours marveling at the beauty of the lake. It also helped pass the time that we drank individual portions of boxed wine (imagine a juice box with wine as opposed to juice… “don’t take mommy’s juice-boxes, little Johnny”).
Nate and Danielle on the boat
Danielle gave Julia her first piece of gum (which she swallowed in seconds)
The whole crew
Some towns we saw along the lake – love the light coming through the clouds
Isola Comacina (an island in Lake Como)
Villa Carlotta in Tremezzo
The town of Tremezzo
Julia having fun with Danielle onboard
We’re HERE!
We arrived at Bellagio cheerful and ready to explore. But the internal Italian clock had already set in with our guests and it was just past noon – nearly time for lunch (without exception). We headed to Aperitivio et Al, where we had already made reservations. We ordered antipasto and then moved on to our main dishes. We ordered an extra dish for the table to share, a local specialty called pizzoccheri. Jen and I have enjoyed this unique local pasta many times over the years and they prepared the dish quite well here.
Bellagio from the opposite side of the lake
A baby in a stroller is no match for two strong guys!
Antipasto
Selection of cheeses
Danielle served our grappa
One of my favorite streets in Bellagio – right where ate
The girls having fun
“SAY WHAAAT?!”
The flowers in Bellagio are stunning – even Julia was taken aback
After lunch we set out to explore a bit before heading to Villa Serbelloni – a beautiful resort that sits directly on the lake. We commandeered a perfect spot in the corner of their terrace and ordered a round of the popular Italian afternoon drink, Aperol Sprtiz. As we finished our drinks, Nathan and I mulled over our next order of business when Danielle came back in true “Sweet D” fashion – two Cuban cigars in hand and two waiters in tow, carrying a bottle of champagne (for the girls) and two beers (for the guys). I guess we weren’t going anywhere anytime soon, which was just fine with us. Eventually we departed in time to catch the ferry (this time we made it to the fast boat) and headed back home for a late dinner.
Villa Serbelloni
A view from one of the hotel’s terraces
Nathan became giddy at the view
This is what he was looking at
Julia soaking it all up
The gang’s all here
Having fun with Daddy
The girls with their sprtiz’s
The aftermath of our afternoon
Another view from the hotel
Sunday (day three) was a continuation of the first two. I had prearranged a wine tasting in the Piemonte region – an area in the northwest of the country that produces some of the world’s best wines. Several weeks back, my father-in-law sent me an email about a three day event that was divided between six venues (mostly private villas and castles), spread among four villages and serving hundreds of the best Barolo’s, Barbaresco’s and Diano d’Alba’s (to name a few). The only problem – it was reserved for professionals in the wine industry. I was dismayed to learn that I may be prevented from attending a seemingly perfect day of free wine tasting. I viewed the registration form anyways and decided that it wouldn’t hurt to let them know I was a wine importer and therefore worthy of a badge (along with my three “co-workers”). It isn’t that far-fetched of a tale, as I would love to get into the trade and figured I could do some networking in between sips. The ruse worked and we had a day planned to experience some of the best wine in Italy.
Grandi Langhe DOCG Wine Event
The three hour drive to the Langhe province flew by and we were welcomed with warm weather and bright blue skies. Our anticipation built as we passed rolling hills and fields of vines dotting the landscape in perfect lines like ants on their way to a picnic. We arrived in the town of Monforte d’ Alba and teetered our way down the small cobblestone street toward the location of our first tasting, Palazzo Martinengo. The venue was wonderful and I was amazed to see how many local producers were in attendance, eager to showcase their wine and talk about their grapes’ unique prowess. I had a blast chatting in a combination of English and Italian, evaluating how the local terroir affects the flavor of each wine. It was no small coincidence that I chose this particular day of the three to attend the tasting – the first venue was featuring only Barolo’s (the most sought-after of all the wines in the region). We enjoyed a lunch on the terrace – steak tartare, pasta (of course) and some other goodies before moving onto the next venue.
Monforte d’ Alba
Inside the event
Lunch was served on the terrace
Badges and glasses ready
Danielle goes in for a taste
These guys must be big time wine importers – I mean, look at those pink shirts!
Stepping out for a bit
What a day!
As we piled into the shuttle we noticed some dark clouds moving in. By the time we arrived at Tenuta Abbene, a heavy rain had broken through the clouds. I was particularly bummed, because this venue was stunning – a private villa set back behind a long driveway. Situated behind many hectares of grape fields and atop a hill that produced a view of the entire valley. The event had planned this portion of the tasting to be outside – a plan that was wasted because everyone was crowded inside a small space to avoid the blistering cold rain. Eventually we decided the rain wasn’t letting up and opted to drive home, but not after stopping at one of our favorite restaurants, Antique Sapore for Como’s best pizza.
The villa – shot from the safety of cover
More of the outdoor space we weren’t able to enjoy
Hiding inside
Danielle fashioned a couture raincoat out of a garbage bag
Monday, we needed a break before our next big trip (we were leaving for Venice the next morning) and so we enjoyed a slow morning before headed to our absolute favorite dining establishment… Franco and Claudia’s home, just upstairs. She prepared a wonderful lunch which we all thoroughly enjoyed (I even caught her in a picture… a rare feat indeed).
Everyone for lunch – Franco… SMILE like you like us!
Preparing the food in the kitchen
Afterward we took a nice long drive, winding our way up the lake past some more of our favorite towns and ended up in Menaggio.
Walking around Menaggio
Walking along the lake
I was helping Julia attract the ducks so she could “pet them”
Family photo
River that leads to the lake
Soaking up the scenery
Can you believe that we just happened to be sitting like this?!
Just like Nathan and Danielle’s visit, we have a lot packed into this post and so I will conclude this first part and resume again next with our exciting trip to Venice. Ciao for now…
Our first award! I’m excited, honored and flattered. I would like to thank all the little people… namely Julia because she’s pretty little.
The Liebster Award was given to us by our good friend and fellow blogger, Michel. You’ll notice that his blog, Our House in Provence is one that I follow. I imagine if you spend just a few minutes reading some of his posts, you’ll be an avid reader as well. His attention to detail and plethora of knowledge about his subjects puts my posts to shame. Michel and his wife Shirley live in a beautiful home in wine country, California. Michel’s passions include food (he owns a restaurant near his hometown, Bistro des Copains), wine (he is an expert in French and California wine), his family (he has two beautiful daughters and four bright grandchildren) and of course France; the subject of his blog (he owns a beautiful stone village house in Provence).
Michel and Shirley
Michel received his Liebster Award from another blogger I follow, Sara in Le Petit Village. Sara is very plugged into the blogging community and has transformed her life in France into a successful digital collection of written word. Her blog is one I admire very much.
The Liebster Award [in a nutshell] is one that is given among peers within the blogging community. I found a blogger that spent hours researching the history of the award. She had done all the heavy lifting and all it took me was scrolling half-way down page one of my google search. My kind of effort. If you’re interested in the origin of the award, click HERE. The award comes with very specific rules and criteria, which I got from Michel’s post after he had completed all his hard work researching (I told you he was thorough). So, I did not need to spend much time looking around for information about the award since I luck-boxed my way into everything I need to know.
Here are the rules, as explained by Michel and copied from his website (permission to do so was herein implied when nominated for the award. Any questions about the validity of this claim can be forwarded to my attorney).
THE RULES
1. Thank and link back to the blogger who presented you with the award. CHECK – Meech, youdaman!
2. List 11 random facts about yourself. SEE BELOW.
3. Answer the 11 questions you were asked. KEEP SCROLLING LOWER STILL.
4. Present/nomiate a Liebster blog award to 3-5 other bloggers. EVEN LOWER.
5. Write 11 questions for your nominees. YOU GUESSED IT… KEEP GOING.
11 RANDOM FACTS ABOUT ME
1) This is not my first blog. My first blog attempt was an unsuccessful one. I believe I still have the domain name – foodpaparazzi (now my twitter handle). I had a fortunate culinary upbringing and was exposed to many different types of food very early on (when asked in 3rd grade what my favorite foods were, I answered “caviar, lobster and McDonalds”). When I moved to DC in 2008 I was exposed to a whole new world of dining and embarked on an entirely new culinary voyage. At the time, I fancied the idea of blogging about it – but my plan lacked implementation. I got as far as laying out about 20% of the blog and taking pictures of 2 meals. Then I gave up.
2) I have been to five of the seven continents in the world (North America, South America, Europe, Asia, Australia). For those keeping track, that leaves a gap in Africa and Antarctica. I know with 100% certainty that I will make it to Africa someday. My father-in-law was born in Ethiopia and I would love to go back to his hometown with him. There are also many other parts of Africa I would like to see. I don’t have many regrets in life, but one glaring experience sticks out. When Jennifer and I were on our honeymoon, we sailed around Cape Horn – the southernmost point in South America. We had the opportunity to take a short flight to Antarctica for the day – a decision I wrestled with for quite some time. It was prohibitively expensive and so we didn’t do it, but I will always regret not throwing caution (and fiscal responsibility) to the wind.
The moment we sailed around Cape Horn
Our honeymoon – dinner with a view
3) I married my first love, my first girlfriend and my best friend. Many people can get one or two of those – but I nailed the hat trick. Jen and I met in middle school and I love to tell people [truthfully] that she had a major crush on yours truly that lasted nearly a decade. We progressed through middle, high school and the same college together. It wasn’t until a couple years after college that I finally woke up and smelled the roses. I was lucky she was still on the market!
On my 30th birthday
4) I fashion myself to be better than I really am. What does that mean? Well, I am very practical. I know my limits. I know that I am a decent skier, have a little knowledge about food and wine and enjoy writing. But in my mind, I envision being able to heli-ski the Alps, differentiate between a Rosso di Montalcino and a Rosso di Monetlpuciano solely on taste and publish a book after reaching new heights in the blogoshpere. In reality – I’m far too out of shape for heli-sking, my palate will never be advanced enough to be a sommelier and my grammatical errors and awful metaphors will stifle my writing career like Yoko Ono suffocated the Beatles. It’s good to dream… but even better to be practical. It keeps me working hard at things I love, but without any disappointment.
Ski trip from ’05 – I honestly miss that sweet yellow jacket
5) I am proud to say that I’m a “Harley-Man”. I know, I know… more the “suburban-poser, weekend rider” than the “hardcore, grizzly Hell’s Angel” type… but I’m comfortable with who I am. I do absolutely love being on my bike – a Harley Davidson, VRSC Nightrod Special. I bought the bike because I was working for a side business that brought me to motorcycle rallies across the country. I leveraged that part-time vocation into a convincing sales pitch to Jen that I needed a bike. I need to believe in what I’m selling! I don’t know too many pregnant wives that are cool enough to let their husbands buy their first motorcycle a few months before expecting – but I got one of the good ones. She didn’t exactly say “yes” but she didn’t say “no” either – and going for the assumtive close has worked for me more often than not. She has yet to ride on the back with me – but I envision a cross-country trip after kid number II is in grade school.
My third love
This kids a Harley baby!
She loves the feel of the wind in her hair like daddy!
6) I love Ethiopian food – it’s one of my absolute favorites. Jen’s father was born in Ethiopia and spent his formative years eating the unique cuisine – he introduced me to this delectable ethnic fare years ago. The DC metro area has one of the largest Ethiopian populations in the States and so we are fortunate enough to have access to great, authentic cooking. My favorite dishes include tibs in a spicy awaze sauce and kitfo (raw beef, much like steak tar-tar). I once saw an Anthony Bourdain special where he visited an Ethiopian restaurant in Northern Virginia, which was unique for serving cubed chunks of raw beef (not like the minced and treated kitfo). Dom (Jen’s father) and I made a special trip to pop cubes of raw meat in our mouth. I cannot say that I loved it.
Traditional Ethiopian dish with kitfo in the center
7) I got a $100 parking ticket on my wedding day. We were married at the St. Regis in Washington DC in front of our family and friends. The presenter of my Liebster Aweard, Michel was the one who married us. He did an incredible job and set the stage for one of the best days of my life. I received the ticket when I pulled up and parked my car out front of the hotel for a few minutes (to drop some things off) well before the ceremony started. I am happy to report that I went to traffic court and the officer didn’t show up – so I got off!
I’m grinning because I know I’m going to beat that ticket!
8) I have eaten pig brains (delicious), calf brains (not delicious), liver of just about every animal, beef tongue (one of my grandmother’s favorites), lamb and calf glands (sweetbreads – delicious), pig and chicken feet (good in a dim-sum restaurant), frog legs, pig ears and crab poop (just a bit of the yellow mustard is great – Maryland people you know what I’m talking about) . I stop at the heart, eyes and stomach of just about any animal – Andrew Zimmern, your job is safe. I have also eaten shark, snake, alligator, crickets, kangaroo, ostrich, emu, horse, elk, deer, boar, bison, rabbit, duck, pheasant, squab, quail and snails. I have not tried bear or camel and I draw the line at dog and cat. (*after this originial posting, I can add pigeon to the list). This may all sound like a tall tale, but I assure you that it is 100% accurate.
9) My standard meal at McDonalds is a super-sized filet of fish meal (includes a large fries and large Sprite), two double-cheesburgers, a McChicken sandwich, a four piece chicken nugget and an Oreo McFlurry. My standard meal at Five Guys is two regular cheeseburgers (fried onions, fried mushrooms, lettuce, mayonnaise, A-1 and hot peppers), a large fry (“hey buddy, please fill that bag up with fries”), a grilled cheese sandwich (which I eat in the car as an appetizer) and a root beer. My standard Chipotle meal is a steak burrito (usually so stuffed they have to wrap it with two tortillas), two orders of chips/guacamole and a sweet tea. Once, I ate two steak burritos and chips/guacamole in one sitting. In college I regularly ate two 12″ sub sandwiches with chips – I do not recommend attempting either of those two meals. The other meals are fine to try at home.
10) I passed a Professional Sales course in college with an “A” and never took the final exam. Each semester, the professor would allow one student from each of his 3 different classes (roughly 300 students in total) to skip the exam if they could “close” him in a private sales presentation. We each met him in his office and extended him the opportunity to “buy” whatever it was we were selling. He announced the 3 winners on the day of the exam, so we were still supposed to study. I had a really good feeling I nailed the sale so I didn’t study too hard. It paid off.
“Always…be…closing!”
11) Until I moved to Italy, I have consistently held a job since I was 14. My first job was caddying, I did a few freelance valet gigs, worked in a bagel shop most of high school and then worked in the student center at Virginia Tech. After graduation I moved on to Ryan Homes then NVHomes (new home sales and then sales management), M-Brace (medical manufacturing sales and management) and then briefly sold new homes again before this trip. The five months I have lived here have been the most peculiar five months of my life, with my only job keeping my wife happy and baby entertained. While I have loved every minute, I am anxious to start working again.
11 Questions Asked of Me
1. If you could have dinner with anyone in the world, alive or dead, real or fictional, who would it be and why?
I’ll give you a hint… long orange pony tail. Bright orange crocks. Big, boisterous personality. Have you guessed yet? Mario Batali would be my first choice. The choice seems fairly obvious to me. I believe that many of the more popular choices (and many of the people I admire) would be nice to get to know… but a bit stuffy. I can imagine Mario coming over, with an armful of food and wine and helping me and Jen in the kitchen. He’d entertain us with tall tales of happenings I could only imagine. He’d be the center of attention, but yet kind enough to gracefully share the spotlight. And then of course, we’d become fast friends and I would be the recipient of a brick oven pizza one day, just like another of his friends, Michael Symon (who was also be allowed to attend the dinner if he wished).
How much fun does he look like he’d bring?!
2. Describe the circumstances under which you met your spouse or the significant person in your life?
In 1992, I glanced through a sea of pimply-faced tweens, flanked on each side by lime green lockers in Ridgeview Middle School. I had an eye out for new ladies, having already dated all those immature Darnestown Elementary School girls. And then I saw her. Big, feathered bangs. Hot pink body suit beneath her rockin jean jacket. Who was this ravashing beauty? I smoothed my purple silk shirt and set down my Sony Diskman, pausing Nirvana’s “Smells Like Teen Spirit”. I strolled over and dropped a casual, “hey – did you see last night’s episode of 90210?” The rest is history.
Lucky for me Brandon wasn’t available
3. Name your very favorite restaurant, in what city/town/village is it located and what kind of food do they serve? I am always looking for recommendations for restaurants to try.
Jeez, Meech. Could you make this one any harder? OK – when I am faced with a task seemingly too monumental to finish, I break it down. How do you eat an elephant… one bite at a time (and medium rare). I’ll list a few places where we regularly eat, in some of our favorite cities (this may not include some of my best meals – but to be a favorite restaurant, I think it’s important you dine there regularly). In our hometown of Washington, DC – it would be Braserie Beck. Robert Wiedmaier’s contemporary Belgian-style brasserie sits on the corner adjacent to our building. Their food is always delicious (try the mussels), the service wonderful, the outdoor patio is divine in the spring and the beer selection is among the best in the city. My favorite steakhouse is in one of my favorite cities – N9ne Steakhouse in the Palms Casino, Las Vegas. The ultra modern furnishing is set off perfectly with the club-music playing just loud enough to create a fun and hip atmosphere. Order the seafood tower (some of the best seafood… in the middle of the desert!) and settle in with a cucumber martini while you wait for your bone-in filet (rare). Amazing. Living in Italy, we discovered Osteria Belvedere Montalbano in our neighboring lake town of Lecco. The restaurant is the among the most unique I’ve encountered. The journey to get there is half the adventure (the small, rustic restaurant sits high atop a mountain with access via a virtually non-existent road). The menu is seasonal and determined by the chef, Fabio – so I can’t tell you what to order. Just sit back and enjoy the most authentic of Italian experiences.
We had Julia’s christening at Brasserie Beck
Antipasti we had set on the table
The family in a room behind the wine cellar
4. What is your favorite dinner meal or “comfort food?”
Michel, I can see we’re very like-minded, I’m sensing a food-theme here… This is almost as difficult as the previous question – but I promise to be a bit more concise. My favorite meals – From my mom (and my most often requested birthday dinner) – egg salad, caviar and artichokes to start. Then a caesar salad made table side. Next, a standing rib roast with sides of roasted potatoes and asparagus. Finished off with a mint chocolate chip cake. From Jen – a starter of salami, prosciutto and cheese. A first course of pasta with a simple pomodoro sugo and then veal Milanese with a side of potatoes and her cannelloni bean salad. Finished with a fennel salad and then pastries from our bakery next door. Finally, my favorite comfort food – if we’re feeling lazy and in a “snuggly” mood – Chinese take out (and large quantities with lots of variety) always hits the spot (add a Coke Zero and a good action movie and you’ve got one of my favorite nights in).
Mom preparing the Caesar table side
My mom and Jen’s mom digging in to the roast
Proof I like this meal every year – this is the following year’s birthday
5. Who is your favorite author?
I’ve got to go with the classic American novelists… Hemingway, Fitzgerald, Steinbeck and Faulkner. Nah, I’m just kidding. I would probably say, Stephen King – the best to keep you lying awake with a cold sweat. Also, Ben Mezrich who has written some fascinating non-fictional novels about Ivy-League kids experiencing meteoric rises of financial wealth in their early 20’s. Finally, Mario Puzo is quite literally the Godfather of the organized crime story. I’m a bit embarrassed I can’t name some obscure, but really deep author that no one else has heard of. I suppose I’m just a bit more mainstream.
6. If you could live anywhere in the world, where would that be?
I suppose that living in Como, Italy would definitely top the list. I would also love to live in Sydney, Australia and Shanghai, China.
7. What is your favorite movie of all time?
COME ON! I can’t just answer with one (again)! I suppose the top, top, top all-time is going to be Braveheart. I have probably seen the movie 100 times from beginning to end (I re-watch it a couple times a year). The film has the right amount of action, history, love and drama. Some close seconds are Kill Bill, Inglorious Bastards, The Princess Bride, Godfather I and II, Seven, Django Unchained, Heat, The Big Lebowski, American Psycho and City of God. I have heard that I need to see Oldboy – a Korean Gangster movie (too bad Netflix won’t work here).
“They can take our lives… but they can never take away… my LiebsterAward!”
8. Tea or coffee?
Finally, a softball. Coffee! Although, we’re becoming more partial to the Italian way of drinking it – cappuccino in the morning and espresso throughout the day. The one habit from the States we kept was a big cup of American coffee in the morning (to extend the morning coffee-drinking ritual) but it’s starting to taste a bit weak in comparison to the espresso used to make cappuccino.
Even Julia prefers coffee
9. What is your guilty pleasure?
Getting an obscene amount of food (see any of the above junk meals from McDonalds, Five Guys, Chipotle or a Chinese restaurant) and settling in for a new movie release on TV. I have loved doing this with Jen since college when I would get the food from our dining halls (on Jen’s meal plan – mine would be empty) and watch movies on VHS (as opposed to today’s more convenient, On Demand).
10. Are you a morning person or a night owl?
Not sure I fall into either of these categories. I don’t like to get up incredibly early and I don’t like to stay up too late. However, I’d have to lean more towards morning – I just seem to be a bit more productive before 10:00am.
11. What would be your dream job?
I would like to work for an Italian company that has operations in the US and would need me to manage their US branch. This would allow me to keep ties with Italy and live in the US. Additionally, I would like to develop residential and commercial properties and start a management company to oversee the real estate portfolio. Taking applications for business partners now…
Now Presenting the Liebster to…
B and J have a wonderful blog, Two DC that revolves around their life exploring a new city. The blog has a heavy food focus but also highlights many wonderful activities that they encounter in DC. They moved to DC in 2007 but I have to say…. I can’t comment on the future of the blog since they have just completed a cross country trip to their new home in the Bay Area. Hopefully there will be a Two Cali coming soon.
Our friend Amy has a great blog, One Preppy Cookie where she blogs about her life and her cookie business. Be warned – her pictures will make you hungry for dessert!
Elaine McCardel lives in Michigan but cooks wonderful Italian food, featured on The Italian Dish. Her images and recipes are both awe-inspiring to us. Can you say, blog-envy??
And Their Questions Are…
1) Are you a fan of social media and if so, do you prefer Facebook, Twitter, Pintrest, FourSquare, Linkedin, Tumbler, Instagram, etc?
2) What accomplishment are you most proud of?
3) What’s your favorite thing to cook?
4) Pick your favorite company – large or small, profit or non-profit and explain why.
5) What is your all-time favorite TV show?
6) What is the longest stint you’ve ever spent awake and why?
7) Where is your favorite beach?
8) Detail your dream vacation.
9) What is something that surprised you recently?
10) Mac or PC? iPhone or Galaxy?
11) Name your superpower – ability to fly, invisibility, immortality, telepathy, super speed or something else.
Well, we didn’t run into Edward Cullen, Bella Swan or that creepy little girl that can induce pain in people’s mind (I suppose the world’s largest and most powerful coven of vampires was in hiding) during our visit to Volterra in Tuscany.
Now this is Tuscany!
For the Tibetan monk that has been living in isolation in Bhutan… and my sister, the only two people in the world that haven’t a clue who Edward or Bella are – I am making a playful reference to the Twilight Series. Buddhist monk and Michelle, listen up – the premise of the fictional story is simple. Girl falls in love with boy. Boy happens to be a blood-sucking vampire. Girl also falls in love with another boy. Boy happens to be a shape-shifting werewolf. Love triangle ensues. They all get in trouble when the Volturi (fictional Vampire royalty from the non-fictional town of Volterra, Italy) get involved. Giant battle rages. Extend story over five books. Produce six movies and collect hundreds of millions of non-fictional dollars. You know – your classic love story.
Julia reading in Volterra
Julia’s new pose while strolling
While we didn’t see any vampires (darn), we did find something better in Volterra. We found an amazing city with an incredible history and beauty worthy of a hundred stories – let alone a few blockbuster movies.
Street scene
A government building in the main piazza
In the main piazza
Torture museums are popular here
Jacob??
“Come take a load off”
Another street scene
Remains of Etruscan-Roman Acropolis
Rooftops
I call this… “lonely albero“
Love the roofline
About to break into a run
I love this little peanut
We were given the opportunity to see Volterra with a local, Beth – whom we had recently re-connected with via Facebook. We stayed with her family in their amazing farmhouse for a long weekend that began with a wonderful party you can read about HERE. The first day of we partook in the festivities of Festa della Liberazione. The next day, we woke up and enjoyed our coffee and breakfast in true Tuscan style – piano, piano (slowly). I drank my coffee in Beth’s amazing backyard and watched Julia play while soaking up the scenery.
Beth and her son Indi
Beth’s backyard… what a yard!!
I could spend all day soaking this up
After lunch, we ventured to Volterra and spent the day strolling through the wonderful city. I was particularly interested in the large castle, Medicean Fortress perched at the main gate of the city. We decided to visit the caste and include this large fortress among the many we plan to see this year. I was greeted at the gate (and then turned away) by an armed guard. That seemed odd. Then I noticed armed guards on the roof. And industrial-size surveillance cameras. Boy, these Italians take the preservation of their historical treasures seriously. Or maybe the Volturi do exist…
Medecian Fortress in Volterra – no vampires living here as far as we could tell
Beth told us that there was a prison in Volterra, but we all agreed that it didn’t seem to make sense to convert a 14th century landmark positioned in the center of a tourist town into a prison for hardened criminals. I just discovered (thank you internet) that we were wrong. The castle was converted into a high-security prison for criminals that are serving sentences longer than seven years. I have also learned another interesting fact about the prison – there is a restaurant inside that serves gourmet food. This was part of a rehabilitation project and has been highly publicized. The food is prepared and served by inmates and the restaurant is open to the public (provided you pass a security clearance, don’t mind eating with plastic silverware and have some stones of your own). I think I’ll have to make a reservation next time we visit – my kind of joint.
Another angle
One of the main city gates
The drive from Beth’s home to Volterra was simply amazing – we got to see some of the incredible Tuscan country-side. Beth explained that there are essentially “twelve colors of Tuscany” throughout the year. A painter had once told her that the look of Tuscany changes each month with the growth of new plants and flowers each month. We must have come during the most vibrant green month – because the scenery was just stunning.
Julia and Indi ready to go
Vibrant green hillside
Tuscany in spring is a dream
Incredible scenery
Couldn’t wait to make a panoramic photo
We picked up some cheese, salami and sott’olio (“under oils” which are a variety of vegetables stored in olive oil) and headed back for a late dinner. Andrea (Beth’s husband) arrived home just as we were setting out the food and we all ate and drank until we crawled into our beds.
The following day was particularly exciting for both me and Andrea. You see, Beth is a vegetarian and so he relishes any opportunity to cook meat. I happen to love meat and so a match was made in heaven. He was particularly excited to try a new lamb recipe and was particularly excited to be his guinea pig (having grown up loving lamb). The women prepared for the feast and tended to the children while the men asserted our male dominance and hunted for the meat…at the local grocery store. We were triumphant! Andrea set to work preparing the lamb and I was eager to assist him. I gathered some rosemary from the yard – and evidently snapped a living branch in the process. He casually brushed it off, as he had “only been growing that plant for three years”. I felt awful – they were kind enough to laugh. Andrea selected a great bottle of wine they had been saving for the right occasion. I took this to mean that they liked having us and we hadn’t yet worn out our welcome. The meal surpassed all my high expectations! But we made a critical mistake – eating that much meat had put us in a food coma. We needed grappa (Italian alcoholic drink used to aid in digestion) – stat! We drove to a local pasticceria (pastry shop) for some sweets and grappa. Eventually, day turned into night and we each fell into bed, sleeping quite soundly.
Andrea preparing the rosemary
Andrea was excited to make a meat dish
Baby swap – feeding the kids early
Beth shows Julia how to twirl like she’s “up in the club”
Andrea showcases his cooking skills and great taste in wine
Full-bodied, flavorful Tuscan wine
The table is set…
…with copious amounts of succulent meat…
…and the best roasted potatoes we’d ever had!
The gang’s all here
After lunch, Andrea played some music for the kids – both drums and guitar. He had an instant collection of groupies (I’m including Jen in that lot).
Andrea lays a beat
And has a collection of fans
Julia had to get in on the action
Somehow we had already arrived at Sunday and our magical weekend in Tuscany came to a close. We enjoyed our morning coffee and some of Beth’s homemade muffins (Jen borrowed the recipe) and hit the road. We had such a nice time with Andrea, Beth and their son Indi – we hope to host them in our home in Como soon.
Facebook is great for a lot of things. First of all, it’s a wonderful time killer. It is a spectacular medium for sharing funny videos about cats. The site is also great for shameless self-promotion of your unimportant blog (ahem). Facebook keeps me and Jen apprised of popular youtube videos and trending pop-culture stories we would have otherwise missed living in another country. But perhaps best of all – it helps reconnect people after many, many years.
This is how you “like” a post on Italian Facebook
This was recently the case when my wife re-connected with a high school friend of ours, now living in Tuscana (Tuscany). Beth traveled to Rome in 1999 to study abroad. There, she found her love and has been living in Italy ever since (to clarify, I mean a man – not just a love of the country). While they enjoyed living in Rome together, they eventually moved back to his hometown in Tuscany, a short distance from Pisa. It was here that Beth and Andrea started a family together with the birth of their son, Indi. We were thrilled we got to spend some time with them in their amazing home and had the opportunity to reconnect with Beth while getting to know Indi and Andrea (whom we both loved).
Beth and Indi
Beth’s “front yard”
Still in the front
More views from the front – ridiculous, I know!!
Jen and Beth had been exchanging Facebook messages about getting together (we’re roughly 3 hours apart) almost since we moved to Italy this past January. And then, the timing seemed to click perfectly. The 25th of April is Liberation Day in Italy. Festa della Liberazione is a holiday that marks the end of Mussolini’s Social Republic and the end of the Nazi occupation in Italy in 1945. Today, this holiday is celebrated with the closure of nearly all business, which affords the people a good reason to get together and do what Italians do best – eat wonderful food, drink amazing wine and trade passionate stories.
Congregating after lunch
As we soon discovered, Beth lives in an incredible 500 year old farmhouse and her neighbors were having a party for the holiday. There was to be a big lunch outdoors, with music, kids and plenty of wine. She invited us for lunch and extended the invitation through the long weekend. I don’t know anyone that would turn down such an amazing invitation – and we were no exception.
The farmhouse Beth and Andrea share (the building in back)
Their home
Another angle
Building used to store hay – now used for parties
The plan was to arrive just ahead of lunch – the real start of the party. It was to be a typical Italian lunch, with all the courses and dishes we love – but, quite literally Under The Tuscan Sun and with some regional favorites we were eager to try. I would not allow our typical tardiness out the front door get in the way of this epic meal. So, I fibbed and told Jen we needed to be on the road earlier than we really did. Then, I budgeted an extra 30 minutes for typical trip delays (over an hour buffer in total). If you know me, you’ll know this was the type of meal I would not want to miss!
Everything was going according to plan until we neared Milan some 40 minutes down the road. Traffic got a bit thicker. By the time we got on the Autostrada toward Tuscany, we were stuck in stand-still traffic, moving 0 km/hour. That converts to 0 mp/hour. I watched the GPS arrival time creep later and later. 11:30am turned into 12:00pm and before you knew it, 1:00pm. I tried a short cut that just added to the time. By noon (and an estimated arrival of 3:00pm) we sullenly threw in the towel. We pulled over and ate panini at the AutoGrill. I swear as the day is long – I’m getting depressed all over again just typing this. The sandwiches were good – but nothing like what we were missing. Thankfully, we kept our spirits high and pulled into Beth’s house by 3:30 (a seven hour trip).
The remnants of the meal we missed
Since everyone had eaten, we jumped right into the party. Beth has some spectacular friends and we had a wonderful time. It came as no surprise that everyone was so warm and inviting. They talked to us as if we had been friends for 15 years and took to Julia as if they had watched her grow up. We drank wine, fresh mojitos and swayed to the beats of the DJ spinning outside. We spread our toes in the Tuscan grass and ate some fresh food off the grill.
Relaxing together
Julia loved playing with Indi
DJ spinning great music
My kind of speaker set-up
Part of the party
Say “formaggio!”
This nice kid fired up the grill for us
At one point, a big blue tractor showed up and it almost sounded like some of the male partygoers were arguing with the man driving the tractor. I recognized a few words and hand gestures usually only reserved for a type of heated debate. After a few minutes, the arguing died down and the guys walked with the tractor driver to the bar area to get a drink together, laughing like they were best friends. It didn’t seem to make any sense until Beth explained.
What’s this guy doing here?
The land we were on (including the farmhouse, all the structures and ten more homes nearby) belonged to the Marchese (Marquis). The Marchese is a man of noble decent who carries his title and rules his lands as if he were still in power. In reality, he has no more power than you or me. That is – if you or me had a noble bloodline, hundreds of acres in Tuscany, a mansion, dozens of employees and a several properties on our land. In 1948, the newly adopted constitution of Italy refused to recognize all noble titles (the Republic of Italy replaced the Kingdom of Italy in 1946). So, the Marchese (whom I was fascinated to learn loves the aristocratic pastime of hunting with dogs) “rules” his lands and everyone is just sort of happy to let him go on thinking it. He had “ordered” this man to drive up the hill in his tractor to tell us to lower the music. At home in the States, I can imagine a property manager (at the behest of the landlord) banging on someone’s front door to tell them to lower the music would be greeted with a bit of disdain. He would certainly not be invited in for a drink and food. But this is Italy. After a couple glasses of wine together, we lowered the music and the man drove back down the hill having successfully completed his task. But not before letting Julia drive his tractor – quite literally, he let her steer unaided for about 10 meters (until she almost put him into a field).
Only a small portion of the Marchese’s house can be seen here – it was huge
He let Julia drive
She was ready to GO!
After some time, we decided to go in and feed the kids and make a proper meal. Beth’s time in Italy was definitely evident, as she “whipped up” on the best pasta dishes we’ve had since arriving here. We paired with another wine and settled in for a relaxing weekend in Tuscany.
Dinner is about to be served – LOVED the charm in her home
Wonderful Tuscan dinner
Baby Indi munching on his mom’s wonderful cooking
More to come about this amazing weekend in Tuscany in a subsequent post…
I’ve got a lot I should be blogging about. Now that the spring flowers have arrived, I’ve decided Lake Como is one of the most beautiful places on earth. I’d like to feature the lake – specifically, downtown Como for you. I also need to do a piece on Alzate Brianza (the town in Como in which we reside). I would love to share with you images of our condo that we’re borrowing from Jen’s parents. If that’s not enough… we have had some wonderful experiences recently in Bergamo, Tuscany, Piemonte, Bellagio, Venice and more. And of course, we’ve had some incredible meals I’d like to showcase.
A scene in Tuscany – what I should be writing about
In order to share these stories I will need to take hundreds of new photos and sift through the thousands I have already taken. Then, I’ll need to re-create the stories and sprinkle in a bit of research about the towns.
Now, don’t get me wrong – I love doing this. And I love even more that we have both devoted and casual readers of our blog. A highlight of my day is getting a comment from a new reader somewhere in the world. But, I am feeling a bit overwhelmed by the sheer work of it all. I recognize that feeling stressed over such an unimportant task is comical. Or perhaps it just makes me look like an asino (you can translate that one on your own). But what can I say… I just want to do the best job I can.
So what do you do when you’re overwhelmed? Procrastinate, of course! And what can make you happy when you’re overwhelmed? Comfort food, of course! So this blog is a procrastination piece about comfort food!!
I wouldn’t necessary call bagels and lox your typical “comfort-food”, but it is a breakfast dish both Jen and I love. We’ve shared many wonderful brunches with this as the main course and loved every crunchy/creamy/slimy and flavorful bite. Plus, it reminds of us of home.
I was surprised to see how popular smoked salmon (“lox”) is in Italy. It is widely sold in the supermarket, with a vast number of brands jockeying for premium shelf space. Since breakfast in Italy is very light (usually just a few biscotti), once in a while we will get salmon to mix things up. However, a bagel in Italy is as non-existent as a Jew in Mississippi. So instead, we use toast points and occasionally add capers.
One day, we accidentally stumbled on all the typical ingredients (minus the bagels) and decided to go for it! So, here is our version of a “bagels and lox brunch, Italian style”.
All the ingredients, minus our “everything” bagels
The final product was quite delicious!
Now that I’m done procrastinating… I just feel more guilty than ever! Guess I should really get to work… but maybe I’ll just check out some new posts on 9gag first…
Two posts about the Dolomites and now four posts about Austria… will the posts about this road trip ever end?! I promise, I’ll wrap it up here… I think I’m spending as much time writing as I did enjoying the trip!
An unfortunate haze covers a beautiful city
You may have gathered (HERE) that we instantly fell in love with Salzburg and extended our trip by an extra day/night to see more. We started day one with a visit to a castle, Hohenwerfen Fortress and so I thought starting our second day with a visit to it’s sister castle, Festung Hohensalzburg would be appropriate.
Castle tower
Inside the main gates
From the main courtyard
Festung Hohensalzburg (literally, High Salzburg Fortress) sits atop the Festungberg Mountain, commanding a view of all Salzburg – a useful feature during the middle ages. Today, the opposite is even better – a view of the beautiful castle is ever-present as you walk through the city below. I described a history of it’s sister castle (HERE) – the purpose for this castle was the same. The original fortification began in 1077 under Archbishop Gebhard von Helfenstein as one of three fortifications during the Investiture Controversy. Today, it remains as one of the largest medieval castles in all of Europe.
The day was hazy, which was unfortunate given our high position over the city. I was hoping to capture some amazing panoramas of the city – but the haze wanted to get in my way. Still, the castle tour was amazing. We started with a ride up the funicular and then wound our way through the various museums built into the original fortress.
A ride up the funicular
Beautiful views blocked by fog
Wouldn’t want to pick a fight with this crew
I like my lady wearing a bit more “contemporary” undergarments
Don’t be a jackass in the 15th century – or else you’d be sporting this
Guys – just go ahead and shiver. Yeah, this punishment is for THAT
The chapel
Julia found her knight in shining armor
Leaving the main castle
“My milkshake brings all the boys to the yard…no, really. Where’s my milkshake?”
Castle tower
View from below
Next up, a classic Sound of Music attraction – Schloss Leopoldskron. The movie was filmed in Salzburg in 1965 and Schloss Leopoldskron, an amazing estate just outside the city – served as the backdrop for some of the most infamous scenes. Surprisingly, the city’s fascination with the movie consumed me and I did an ample amount of research about the film. It turns out, many tour operators pass off the estate as the Von Trapp Family home featured in the movie. Couple points of order (during which, we’ll take a brief detour). The movie, The Sound of Music staring Julie Andrews (America’s earlier version of Julia Roberts) was based on the 1959 musical, The Von Trapp Family Singers. The musical was based on the real life Von Trapp family, a family that lived in Austria in the early 1900’s. OK – this brings us back to Schloss Leopoldskron, which is often falsely presented as the Von Trapp home. The real family did not live there (they lived in a more modest estate in another neighborhood). This was not their home in the movie (there’s only one brief front exterior scene of the Von Trapp home, and that was yet another estate). They did not film inside (the interior shots were done in Hollywood). So, why on earth would anyone come here? Well, it’s easy for tours to pass off as the home because it’s a wonderful sight to behold and who really remembers anyway?! The tie to the movie you ask… remember when the kids paddle home in the canoe to meet The Captain’s girlfriend (and fall in the lake, getting soaked in the process)? Well, that scene was filmed here (and the subsequent scene with the pink lemonade). In any event, it made for a nice walk along the side of the castle and down into another town. Plus, we still had a lot of sausage and pretzels to work off!
We followed a beautiful road that wrapped us around the castle
Julia kept wanting to “pet” the ducks – Villa in the back
Schloss Leopoldskron – castle in the background
A stroll with one of my favorite ladies
As we walked back, we navigated through town and then walked along the river. Our new mission – successfully make it to Augustinerkloster und Brau – a beer house and oh, so much more! But we passed an outdoor food market… the best kind of market. I had to stop and get a German sandwich.
Rooftop view along the route back to the city
Soft pretzels – I happen to be a sucker
I love me some vendor food – this place made a mean sandwich
Eventually, we made it to Augustinerbier. The monastery, now turned beer hall is furnished with a large dining area (picture your mall’s food court, but exclusively German food… and no samples on toothpicks), several great halls for drinking, a beer garden and more. The brewery was founded in 1621 by Augustinian monks called from Bavaria. To this day, they follow the Purity Law of Brewing, set in 1516. Your journey begins by picking a mug (the size of your choosing) and then washing it in a communal sink. Next, you present your mug to be filled and go find your seat. Many of the tables are reserved, so move fast! We were among the first through the doors at 3:00pm on a Wednesday and the place was packed within 20 minutes. Many of the tables are reserved for individuals and companies – just like box seats at a stadium.
The most amazing beer house I’ve ever been to outside of Munich
I think this says, “Come in and enjoy some beer”
Food court before the crowds arrived
Choose your mug
Give it a good rinse (that’s not me, by the way)
Guess who’s is who’s. You’re correct… mine is on the left. Jen has a wooden leg
“Not, ‘cin-cin’ Mom… here you say, ‘prost’!”
Julia on the loose!
Look at the placards on the wall – choice seats go for big bucks
One of the smaller drinking halls
We were bummed it was too cold for the garden – maybe next time
After a couple brews (and apple juices for Julia) we had another Sound of Music destination – Mirabellgarten. These immaculate gardens are beautifully maintained and offer the perfect line of sight to the castle on the hill. They are also great for singing “do-ray-me-fa-so-la-te-do” and running beneath a tunnel of foliage. I even helped a group of college girls photograph a replica of the moment when the Von Trapp family jumps on the entry steps. They could only jump about 4″ off the ground. It was not easy to photograph.
Beautifully maintained garden
Perfect juxtaposition with the castle – sad about the haze
Julia wanted to ride the “horse”
Early for flowers – but in a nice bloom
Julia ran around like a kid in a candy store
I had all of three seconds to capture this shot
The Von Trapps ran under this archway in the movie
A nice fountain
Many beautiful statues
As the sun fell behind my new favorite castle, we headed back toward the hotel to eat dinner. We finally found Das Stadtwirtshaus, a restaurant near our hotel that we were unsuccessful in finding the day before. The 24 hour wait was worth it – everything about the restaurant was exactly what we wanted. Truly authentic and delicious. Unfortunately, a full week in some of the most amazing places we’d ever seen and my camera’s memory card was full, so you’ll have to imagine this meal along with us.
The next day we woke up early and enjoyed a nice breakfast in our hotel. Afterward, we piled into the car and began the six hour ride home. Our three-day trip that turned into a two-country-week-long-tour was finally over. And so are the stories about this particular family adventure. Thanks for reading!
Apparently I’m the only person in the world to forget that, “The Sound of Music” took place in Salzburg, Austria. I base this observation on the countless number of tour operators and tourists we observed visiting and posing at key movie locations. However, thanks to a quick iTunes movie download in the hotel, we were quickly singing our doe-ray-me’s along with the rest of the cheese balls.
Not only was this classic movie set and shot here, but a fairly famous musician was also born and raised in the city. Perhaps you’ve heard of him… Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart. Salzburg is an amazing city filled with a rich history and jaw-dropping beauty. We left northern Italy for Austria on a whim two days prior. We continued riding that whim and drove further into Austria to see Salzburg on the suggestion of family. Since our expectations of the city were nonexistent, they were easy to surpass – but I would think this city could have easily leapt the most lofty of them all.
Julia taking in the sights
Since our first day in Salzburg was framed with an incredible visit to Hohenwerfen Castle (HERE), we didn’t arrive in the actual city until mid-afternoon. Having spent more than the anticipated amount of time at the castle, we had a lot of ground to make up. We walked down Linzer Gasse until we crossed over Staatsbrücke Brücke (State Bridge), one of the oldest in the city. The original bridge was built in 1090 and now the 10th incantation of this passage stands with a plaque commemorating the slave labour from Eastern Europe used to reconstruct it during WWII.
View from the Staatsbrücke Brücke
Landestheatre (Provincial Theatre)
We spent quite a bit of time walking through the Altstadt (Old Town), taking in the marvel of the city. My carefully planned itinerary seemed to constantly evolve as we made turn after turn based on our curiosity, rather than our plan of attack. We strolled past the birthplace of Mozart, but declined to pay the €35 admission (for all of us) to see some old violins. Sorry, Wolfgang… I’m still a fan.
Street view – Google, I’m available for free-lance
St. Blaise’s Church at the end of the shops
Mozart’s first “crib”… literally, he was born here
We next discovered the Pferdeschwemme (Horse Pond) – one of two remaining in the city where horses would go to get cleaned. In the middle stands a statue, Der Rossebändiger (horse whisperer), which is a bit of an inside joke unique to the city. Not sure I got the joke, but we did enjoy the spectacle.
The Horse Pond with the “funny” statue in the middle
The pond is carved directly into the face of a mountain
A better view of the horse’s entrance
At this point in our voyage we were at a critical crossroads. We could head northwest to the Augustinerkloster und Bräu (Monastery and Beer… a beer garden) for a brew and dinner. This would consume the remainder of our first of only two days. Or we could head southeast and continue further into the city. I wanted it all, but knew we had to chose. So we made the right choice – stay another night and do it all! We postponed the Beer Garden for the next day.
We were happy with our choice to stay another day
We walked along Hofstallgasee, passing by some incredible sights – and always with an eye upward at Festung Hohensalsburg (the Castle that sits overlooking the city).
Festung Hohensalsburg above the city
Kollegienkirche (Collegiate Church)
A nice horse and buggy through the city would be fun
And the castle again
This path led us directly to St. Peter’s Abbey, one of the oldest monasteries in the German area. The abbey was formed in 696 by Saint Rupert. During medieval times, the monastery was known for its educational prowess. Adjacent to the monestary were catacombs that were carved into the face of the mountain, just next to the cemetery. St. Peter’s Cemetery was created at the time of Late Antiquity and therefore, older than the Abbey itself. The dead have been buried here for 1,300 years.
Welcome!
Inside the courtyard
The Abbey at Saint Peter’s
“Hey guys, let’s go!”
“I’m not waiting for you suckers, I’m off!”
“Are you coming?!”
The cemetery
Always time to stop…
…and smell the roses
Catacomb Chapel built directly into the face of the mountain
Private burial sites
“I love this place!”
After leaving the awe-inspiring Abbey, we stopped to watch a life-sized chess match in action in the Domplatz (plaza outside the Dom). One of the other spectators was nibbling on a giant pretzel and we had to get in on that action!
Check… and… mate!
Num-num-num!
Next up was the Dom of Salzburg, or Salzburg Cathedral. Today’s baroque style cathedral was finished in 1628 and replaces the original cathedral built on the site in 774. I’m sorry to admit, but most European cathedrals, while beautiful – do not particularly hold my attention. However, the Dom was different. My father-in law (Dominic) may say it’s because of the name – but I think perhaps the artwork and painting intrigued me a bit more. We barely got out before closing, and somehow I became the valet as 30 people exited through the surprisingly heavy door I was holding. Good thing I had eaten that pretzel for strength!
The Salzburg Dom
Allegoric figures representing an Angel, Devil, Wisdom and the Church
Jen lights a candle
Inside one of the domes
I promise – this door is as heavy as it looks
The day was winding down, and Julia needed to eat. OK… I needed to eat. We walked back toward the hotel and searched for a restaurant the concierge recommended, Das Stadtwirtshaus. Our German hadn’t improved since we first arrived in Austria and we couldn’t find the place. Instead, we found Altstadtheuriger-Bruderhof – a modern place that blended classic German cuisine with a contemporary style. The result was delightful. And Julia couldn’t have had any more fun!
“We’re eating weinerschnitzel?! Hahaha!”
“Daddy, you’re so funny…you said schnitzel!”
“BWHAHAHAHAHA!”
“Oh, did you want to sit here?!”
Clear beef soup with root vegetable and liver dumpling
Wienerschnitzel served with parsley potatoes
Baked breast of corn chicken
served with a creamy and lime flavored cucumbers and parsley potatoes
At the end of the day, we still hadn’t visited the castle overlooking the city, had a beer at the beer garden or seen any of the classic Sound of Music sights. Glad we had planned to stay an extra day – we would be busy waking up the hills with the sound of our music tomorrow!
I did it! I saw my first castle. It was wonderful – so tender and caring. And it lasted all morning! A first I’ll never forget!
Hohenwerfen Fortress
When we drove into Austria, the hardest part after visiting Innsbruck (read about it HERE) was choosing which castle to visit. We had already planned on visiting Salzburg next, so I carefully chose among the four major castles near the city. I settled on Hohenwerfen Fortress about 40 km southeast of Salzburg. The plan was simple – leave Innsbruck early and drive straight to the castle. We would spend an hour or so at Hohenwerfen Fortress and then head to our hotel in Salzburg. My plan was solid – but I underestimated how much fun we’d have at the castle, and we ended up staying nearly four hours.
The original fortification was started nearly 1,000 years ago and has withstood an interesting history full of war, civil unrest, fire and constant expansion and re-construction. The castle sits high atop a 155m rock in the town of Werfen, Austria.
The castle commands a view of the entire valley *stock photo
A watch guard’s view from one of the towers
The original fortress was commissioned in 1075 by Archbishop Gebhard of Salzburg (along with it’s “sister” castle Fortress Hohensalzburg, which we saw two days later). It was built as a stronghold during the Investiture Controversy, a beef between Kings and Popes that somehow lasted nearly 50 years. What were they were fighting over, you ask? The right to appoint church officials, such as Bishops and Abbots. I didn’t understand why this was such an important issue for the monarchies, but after reading a bit on the battle – I was not surprised to learn it boiled down to one of the three major “fighting follies” (as defined by me… term is patent pending). It always boils down to money (to include lands), ego (to include power and legacy) or a woman (self explanatory). Back then, the title of Bishop came with a substantial amount of wealth and land. And since a title was simply a commodity that could be appointed by a king… the monarchy could sell the title and make a tidy little profit. So, in this case – it was about money (although, I wouldn’t be surprised if there was a woman in there somewhere).
In one corner, we had King Henry IV – a German King since the age of 6. And in the other corner, we had Pope Gregory VII (I’m pulling for him… his name makes him seem trustworthy. And probably good looking). The Pope essentially claimed that since the Roman church was founded by none other than God, it’s power to appoint Bishops lay solely with the Pope himself. King Henry (now a man) disagreed and vocalized it in a public letter to the Pope, essentially starting a 50 year battle-royale, beginning in 1075. And so the Archbishop of Salzburg (an ally of my man, Gregory) built three major castles as protection against the German king. The ending you ask? Well… everyone should know, you don’t mess with a Gregory! The Papacy gained the right of appointment.
Lower courtyard *stock photo
Even though this castle had a long and bloody past, our visit was rather tranquil and quite pleasant. At the base of the great rock (upon which the castle is perched) we had the option of riding a funicular (cable car) or walking up a path. Since it was early in the day and the weather was perfect, we opted to walk. Julia also enjoyed stretching her legs after being in the car for two hours.
“Look mom, I’m a hiker!”
Julia was definitely happier walking…
…and exploring!
View of the valley from the path
Entering through the gates
The castle’s main fortification walls
There was a house inside the gates that was inhabited – groundskeeper?
Admission to the castle (€11 per person) included quite a bit. A walking tour with audio guide, an impressive falconry display of flight, an illuminating exhibition on the construction of the castle, an interactive history of weaponry and a museum on the history of falconry. You can see why we were there for four hours!
Julia particularly enjoyed the audio guide
The falconry show was about to begin
Our timing through the castle gates was perfect. Just minutes after we bought our tickets, the flight show commenced, featuring many different types of falcons and other birds of prey. It was purely breathtaking.
The Falconer explains the presentation
She shows us the first Falcon
One of the falcons in flight
Naturally, the birds loved taking to the air
The Falcons got right in the crowd
My favorite part was the majestical eagle. The falconer had some fun with the crowds. He would prompt these great birds to fly just a few feet over our heads. It was a great way to start the castle tour.
The eagle – our favorite
He’s headed right for us
RIGHT FOR US!!!
Next, we moved on to the guided castle tour, which was in German. Fortunately, we got electronic audio guides that we used. The tour guide herself was trilingual so she was able to field all our questions. It took some time to navigate through the chapel, prisons, torture chambers, royal quarters, bell tower and more.
We’re about to go in!
Love the turrets
View of the monarchies chambers and courtyard
Birds in flight – another demonstration had commenced
The castle’s chapel, reconstructed in the 16th century
Bob here, simulates an archer at his post
This stone weighed 1/2 ton – no problem for me!
A device in the torture chamber
Our group crammed into the torture chamber
A scene along the tour
The loo – it opened straight down the side of the outer wall
400 year old wood floors in the bell tower
Jen and Julia climbing to the top of the bell tower
The bell would sound to wake everyone up
Julia tried to ring it
We spent some additional time walking around the various parts of the castle, including the main courtyard, and museums of weaponry and falconry. We also grabbed a light lunch at the restaurant in the original dining hall of the castle.
Julia in the courtyard
Playing on one of the unicorns (FYI – I nailed 4/5 rings from 12′ out)
Bell tower (reconstructed in 1826 after a fire)
Julia in the dining hall before her lunch
I was more than happy that my first real castle didn’t disappoint! Next, we headed off to Salzburg… a lot more on that wonderful trip to come!
If you have never tried Risotto, I think it is a must. It’s delicious and a great way for us to change up lunch from our typical pasta dishes. Since this has been our first week of spring weather I wanted to make a spring risotto with beautiful seasonal asparagus.
Risotto with fresh asparagus
My mom used to make this for us a lot as a kid growing up in the spring and summer, so I was excited to make this for Greg and Julia. I was pretty happy with how this dish turned out. I served with a fresh salad of fennel and our meal was complete. Even Julia ate a huge plate. This dish is a great way to get kids to eat their vegetables. I hope to post some other risotto recipes soon (like pasta, there are many different ways to introduce new flavors). I hope your enjoy this as much as we did.
INGREDIENTS (serves 4)
>Olive oil
>One (1) small onion (diced)
>Four (4) cups of chicken stock
>Nine (9) palms of arborio rice (two palms of rice per person, with one extra for good measure). This is roughly two (2) cups of rice
>Two (2) cups of asparagus, pre-cooked (best to blanch to preserve color and texture). Cut into 1″ pieces
>Between half (½) and a full cup of white wine (depending on taste/quality of wine)
>Roughly one half (½) a cup of grated parmesan cheese and then additional cheese for the table and garnish
>Third (1/3) stick of butter
>Salt to taste
Fresh ingredients
>Heat chicken stock in a pot.
>On a separate burner, heat olive oil in a large flat pan with high sides. >Add onion until it is softened and translucent. While the onion is cooking, add a dash of salt. This could take a little over 5 minutes. Don’t allow the onions to brown.
Cook onions
>Add the rice and mix together. Stir until the rice is toasted (but not brown) about three – four (3-4) minutes.
Add the rice and continue to stir
>Add wine and continue to cook the rice.
>After a minute, add a ladle or two of the stock, stirring the rice continuously until the liquid is absorbed.
>Continue stirring and ladling the broth for approximately fifteen (15) minutes. Be sure to taste as you go and add salt accordingly. The rice should be al dente and creamy.
Ladle in the stock
>Before you add your last ladle or two of stock, add the asparagus and stir into the rice.
>Remove from heat and stir in butter and Parmesan cheese. Cover and allow pan to sit for five (5) minutes.
Add the asparagus…
…and cover
>Serve right away and top with fresh grated Parmesan cheese.
Enjoy!
PLEASE NOTE – Cooking risotto requires constant attention. Make sure the table is set and everything else you are serving is ready before you begin the rice. I have made that mistake before!
I recently realized that our “Home Cooking” section of the blog was growing the slowest throughout the entire site. I’m only partly ashamed to admit that the one consistent about our trip is that we’ve been indulging in some of the most amazing food we’ve ever had. However, my OCD recently kicked in when I noticed all our food posts landed in the “Restaurant” or “Jen’s Kitchen” sections. So, in an effort to right this wrong… here is one very memorable home-cooked meal we hosted a little while ago.
Eugenio brought a wonderful Champagne
Jen has a warm and wonderful family, with whom we love spending time. Recently, her cousin Eugenio drove from Torino to spend time with us and get reacquainted with Julia. He brought his lovely girlfriend, Barbara as well.
But enough jabbering… this post is all about the food and drink!
Let’s pop this cork and get the party started!
The night Eugenio and Barbara arrived, we set out a light dinner – just some typical Italian antipasti to nibble on, as well as some regional snacks we all like to enjoy.
Eugenio brought the Champagne
I think we’re going to need a bigger table
Oh wait, there was a free corner – let’s fill it with food
The next day, we had Jen’s cousin Massimo and his beautiful family over for a proper meal.
Vitello (veil) roast from our local butcher…
…after a nice sear
Antipasti for our guests
Claudia and Eugenio horsing around
Wait – who hit who?! Love both their expressions
Jen made a delicious prima (first course) – pasta pomodoro
Yummy!
The secondo, our vitello (veil roast)
Alessandra (Massimo’s wife) made a beautiful torta
We picked up some chiacchiere
Eugenio got some additional pastries
Julia’s cousin Bea, enjoying her ice-cream
Julia stole a taste
Everyone was so stuffed we needed a break with some scotch
It’s not a party unless you serve a second dessert
It was a wonderful weekend filled with too many delicious treats. Hopefully you were able to enjoy as well.
