Category Archives: Family Stories

Family Stories, Food, Humor, Quotes, Sipping Espresso

Sipping Espresso Got An Award!!

May 20, 2013 Greg

Our first award! I’m excited, honored and flattered. I would like to thank all the little people… namely Julia because she’s pretty little.

The Liebster Award was given to us by our good friend and fellow blogger, Michel. You’ll notice that his blog, Our House in Provence is one that I follow. I imagine if you spend just a few minutes reading some of his posts, you’ll be an avid reader as well. His attention to detail and plethora of knowledge about his subjects puts my posts to shame. Michel and his wife Shirley live in a beautiful home in wine country, California. Michel’s passions include food (he owns a restaurant near his hometown, Bistro des Copains), wine (he is an expert in French and California wine), his family (he has two beautiful daughters and four bright grandchildren) and of course France; the subject of his blog (he owns a beautiful stone village house in Provence).

Michel and Shirley

Michel received his Liebster Award from another blogger I follow, Sara in Le Petit Village. Sara is very plugged into the blogging community and has transformed her life in France into a successful digital collection of written word. Her blog is one I admire very much.

The Liebster Award [in a nutshell] is one that is given among peers within the blogging community. I found a blogger that spent hours researching the history of the award. She had done all the heavy lifting and all it took me was scrolling half-way down page one of my google search. My kind of effort. If you’re interested in the origin of the award, click HERE. The award comes with very specific rules and criteria, which I got from Michel’s post after he had completed all his hard work researching (I told you he was thorough). So, I did not need to spend much time looking around for information about the award since I luck-boxed my way into everything I need to know.

Here are the rules, as explained by Michel and copied from his website (permission to do so was herein implied when nominated for the award. Any questions about the validity of this claim can be forwarded to my attorney).

THE RULES
1. Thank and link back to the blogger who presented you with the award. CHECK – Meech, youdaman!
2. List 11 random facts about yourself. SEE BELOW.
3. Answer the 11 questions you were asked. KEEP SCROLLING LOWER STILL.
4. Present/nomiate a Liebster blog award to 3-5 other bloggers. EVEN LOWER.
5. Write 11 questions for your nominees. YOU GUESSED IT… KEEP GOING.

11 RANDOM FACTS ABOUT ME

1) This is not my first blog. My first blog attempt was an unsuccessful one. I believe I still have the domain name – foodpaparazzi (now my twitter handle). I had a fortunate culinary upbringing and was exposed to many different types of food very early on (when asked in 3rd grade what my favorite foods were, I answered “caviar, lobster and McDonalds”). When I moved to DC in 2008 I was exposed to a whole new world of dining and embarked on an entirely new culinary voyage. At the time, I fancied the idea of blogging about it – but my plan lacked implementation. I got as far as laying out about 20% of the blog and taking pictures of 2 meals. Then I gave up.

2) I have been to five of the seven continents in the world (North America, South America, Europe, Asia, Australia). For those keeping track, that leaves a gap in Africa and Antarctica. I know with 100% certainty that I will make it to Africa someday. My father-in-law was born in Ethiopia and I would love to go back to his hometown with him. There are also many other parts of Africa I would like to see. I don’t have many regrets in life, but one glaring experience sticks out. When Jennifer and I were on our honeymoon, we sailed around Cape Horn – the southernmost point in South America. We had the opportunity to take a short flight to Antarctica for the day – a decision I wrestled with for quite some time. It was prohibitively expensive and so we didn’t do it, but I will always regret not throwing caution (and fiscal responsibility) to the wind.

The moment we sailed around Cape Horn

Our honeymoon – dinner with a view

3) I married my first love, my first girlfriend and my best friend. Many people can get one or two of those – but I nailed the hat trick. Jen and I met in middle school and I love to tell people [truthfully] that she had a major crush on yours truly that lasted nearly a decade. We progressed through middle, high school and the same college together. It wasn’t until a couple years after college that I finally woke up and smelled the roses. I was lucky she was still on the market!

On my 30th birthday

4) I fashion myself to be better than I really am. What does that mean? Well, I am very practical. I know my limits. I know that I am a decent skier, have a little knowledge about food and wine and enjoy writing. But in my mind, I envision being able to heli-ski the Alps, differentiate between a Rosso di Montalcino and a Rosso di Monetlpuciano solely on taste and publish a book after reaching new heights in the blogoshpere. In reality – I’m far too out of shape for heli-sking, my palate will never be advanced enough to be a sommelier and my grammatical errors and awful metaphors will stifle my writing career like Yoko Ono suffocated the Beatles. It’s good to dream… but even better to be practical. It keeps me working hard at things I love, but without any disappointment.

Ski trip from ’05 – I honestly miss that sweet yellow jacket

5) I am proud to say that I’m a “Harley-Man”. I know, I know… more the “suburban-poser, weekend rider” than the “hardcore, grizzly Hell’s Angel” type… but I’m comfortable with who I am. I do absolutely love being on my bike – a Harley Davidson, VRSC Nightrod Special. I bought the bike because I was working for a side business that brought me to motorcycle rallies across the country. I leveraged that part-time vocation into a convincing sales pitch to Jen that I needed a bike. I need to believe in what I’m selling! I don’t know too many pregnant wives that are cool enough to let their husbands buy their first motorcycle a few months before expecting – but I got one of the good ones. She didn’t exactly say “yes” but she didn’t say “no” either – and going for the assumtive close has worked for me more often than not. She has yet to ride on the back with me – but I envision a cross-country trip after kid number II is in grade school.

My third love

This kids a Harley baby!

She loves the feel of the wind in her hair like daddy!

6) I love Ethiopian food – it’s one of my absolute favorites. Jen’s father was born in Ethiopia and spent his formative years eating the unique cuisine – he introduced me to this delectable ethnic fare years ago. The DC metro area has one of the largest Ethiopian populations in the States and so we are fortunate enough to have access to great, authentic cooking. My favorite dishes include tibs in a spicy awaze sauce and kitfo (raw beef, much like steak tar-tar). I once saw an Anthony Bourdain special where he visited an Ethiopian restaurant in Northern Virginia, which was unique for serving cubed chunks of raw beef (not like the minced and treated kitfo). Dom (Jen’s father) and I made a special trip to pop cubes of raw meat in our mouth. I cannot say that I loved it.

Traditional Ethiopian dish with kitfo in the center

7) I got a $100 parking ticket on my wedding day. We were married at the St. Regis in Washington DC in front of our family and friends. The presenter of my Liebster Aweard, Michel was the one who married us. He did an incredible job and set the stage for one of the best days of my life. I received the ticket when I pulled up and parked my car out front of the hotel for a few minutes (to drop some things off) well before the ceremony started. I am happy to report that I went to traffic court and the officer didn’t show up – so I got off!

I’m grinning because I know I’m going to beat that ticket!

8) I have eaten pig brains (delicious), calf brains (not delicious), liver of just about every animal, beef tongue (one of my grandmother’s favorites), lamb and calf glands (sweetbreads – delicious), pig and chicken feet (good in a dim-sum restaurant), frog legs, pig ears and crab poop (just a bit of the yellow mustard is great – Maryland people you know what I’m talking about) . I stop at the heart, eyes and stomach of just about any animal – Andrew Zimmern, your job is safe. I have also eaten shark, snake, alligator, crickets, kangaroo, ostrich, emu, horse, elk, deer, boar, bison, rabbit, duck, pheasant, squab, quail and snails. I have not tried bear or camel and I draw the line at dog and cat. (*after this originial posting, I can add pigeon to the list). This may all sound like a tall tale, but I assure you that it is 100% accurate.

9) My standard meal at McDonalds is a super-sized filet of fish meal (includes a large fries and large Sprite), two double-cheesburgers, a McChicken sandwich, a four piece chicken nugget and an Oreo McFlurry. My standard meal at Five Guys is two regular cheeseburgers (fried onions, fried mushrooms, lettuce, mayonnaise, A-1 and hot peppers), a large fry (“hey buddy, please fill that bag up with fries”), a grilled cheese sandwich (which I eat in the car as an appetizer) and a root beer. My standard Chipotle meal is a steak burrito (usually so stuffed they have to wrap it with two tortillas), two orders of chips/guacamole and a sweet tea. Once, I ate two steak burritos and chips/guacamole in one sitting. In college I regularly ate two 12″ sub sandwiches with chips – I do not recommend attempting either of those two meals. The other meals are fine to try at home.

10) I passed a Professional Sales course in college with an “A” and never took the final exam. Each semester, the professor would allow one student from each of his 3 different classes (roughly 300 students in total) to skip the exam if they could “close” him in a private sales presentation. We each met him in his office and extended him the opportunity to “buy” whatever it was we were selling. He announced the 3 winners on the day of the exam, so we were still supposed to study. I had a really good feeling I nailed the sale so I didn’t study too hard. It paid off.

“Always…be…closing!”

11) Until I moved to Italy, I have consistently held a job since I was 14. My first job was caddying, I did a few freelance valet gigs, worked in a bagel shop most of high school and then worked in the student center at Virginia Tech. After graduation I moved on to Ryan Homes then NVHomes (new home sales and then sales management), M-Brace (medical manufacturing sales and management) and then briefly sold new homes again before this trip. The five months I have lived here have been the most peculiar five months of my life, with my only job keeping my wife happy and baby entertained. While I have loved every minute, I am anxious to start working again.

11 Questions Asked of Me

1. If you could have dinner with anyone in the world, alive or dead, real or fictional, who would it be and why?

I’ll give you a hint… long orange pony tail. Bright orange crocks. Big, boisterous personality. Have you guessed yet? Mario Batali would be my first choice. The choice seems fairly obvious to me. I believe that many of the more popular choices (and many of the people I admire) would be nice to get to know… but a bit stuffy. I can imagine Mario coming over, with an armful of food and wine and helping me and Jen in the kitchen. He’d entertain us with tall tales of happenings I could only imagine. He’d be the center of attention, but yet kind enough to gracefully share the spotlight. And then of course, we’d become fast friends and I would be the recipient of a brick oven pizza one day, just like another of his friends, Michael Symon (who was also be allowed to attend the dinner if he wished).

How much fun does he look like he’d bring?!

2. Describe the circumstances under which you met your spouse or the significant person in your life?

In 1992, I glanced through a sea of pimply-faced tweens, flanked on each side by lime green lockers in Ridgeview Middle School. I had an eye out for new ladies, having already dated all those immature Darnestown Elementary School girls. And then I saw her. Big, feathered bangs. Hot pink body suit beneath her rockin jean jacket. Who was this ravashing beauty? I smoothed my purple silk shirt and set down my Sony Diskman, pausing Nirvana’s “Smells Like Teen Spirit”. I strolled over and dropped a casual, “hey – did you see last night’s episode of 90210?” The rest is history.

Lucky for me Brandon wasn’t available

3. Name your very favorite restaurant, in what city/town/village is it located and what kind of food do they serve? I am always looking for recommendations for restaurants to try.

Jeez, Meech. Could you make this one any harder? OK – when I am faced with a task seemingly too monumental to finish, I break it down. How do you eat an elephant… one bite at a time (and medium rare). I’ll list a few places where we regularly eat, in some of our favorite cities (this may not include some of my best meals – but to be a favorite restaurant, I think it’s important you dine there regularly). In our hometown of Washington, DC – it would be Braserie Beck. Robert Wiedmaier’s contemporary Belgian-style brasserie sits on the corner adjacent to our building. Their food is always delicious (try the mussels), the service wonderful, the outdoor patio is divine in the spring and the beer selection is among the best in the city. My favorite steakhouse is in one of my favorite cities – N9ne Steakhouse in the Palms Casino, Las Vegas. The ultra modern furnishing is set off perfectly with the club-music playing just loud enough to create a fun and hip atmosphere. Order the seafood tower (some of the best seafood… in the middle of the desert!) and settle in with a cucumber martini while you wait for your bone-in filet (rare). Amazing. Living in Italy, we discovered Osteria Belvedere Montalbano in our neighboring lake town of Lecco. The restaurant is the among the most unique I’ve encountered. The journey to get there is half the adventure (the small, rustic restaurant sits high atop a mountain with access via a virtually non-existent road). The menu is seasonal and determined by the chef, Fabio – so I can’t tell you what to order. Just sit back and enjoy the most authentic of Italian experiences.

We had Julia’s christening at Brasserie Beck

Antipasti we had set on the table

The family in a room behind the wine cellar

4. What is your favorite dinner meal or “comfort food?”

Michel, I can see we’re very like-minded, I’m sensing a food-theme here… This is almost as difficult as the previous question – but I promise to be a bit more concise. My favorite meals – From my mom (and my most often requested birthday dinner) – egg salad, caviar and artichokes to start. Then a caesar salad made table side. Next, a standing rib roast with sides of roasted potatoes and asparagus. Finished off with a mint chocolate chip cake. From Jen – a starter of salami, prosciutto and cheese. A first course of pasta with a simple pomodoro sugo and then veal Milanese with a side of potatoes and her cannelloni bean salad. Finished with a fennel salad and then pastries from our bakery next door. Finally, my favorite comfort food – if we’re feeling lazy and in a “snuggly” mood – Chinese take out (and large quantities with lots of variety) always hits the spot (add a Coke Zero and a good action movie and you’ve got one of my favorite nights in).

Mom preparing the Caesar table side

My mom and Jen’s mom digging in to the roast

Proof I like this meal every year – this is the following year’s birthday

5. Who is your favorite author?

I’ve got to go with the classic American novelists… Hemingway, Fitzgerald, Steinbeck and Faulkner. Nah, I’m just kidding. I would probably say, Stephen King – the best to keep you lying awake with a cold sweat. Also, Ben Mezrich who has written some fascinating non-fictional novels about Ivy-League kids experiencing meteoric rises of financial wealth in their early 20’s. Finally, Mario Puzo is quite literally the Godfather of the organized crime story. I’m a bit embarrassed I can’t name some obscure, but really deep author that no one else has heard of. I suppose I’m just a bit more mainstream.

6. If you could live anywhere in the world, where would that be?

I suppose that living in Como, Italy would definitely top the list. I would also love to live in Sydney, Australia and Shanghai, China.

7. What is your favorite movie of all time?

COME ON! I can’t just answer with one (again)! I suppose the top, top, top all-time is going to be Braveheart. I have probably seen the movie 100 times from beginning to end (I re-watch it a couple times a year). The film has the right amount of action, history, love and drama. Some close seconds are Kill Bill, Inglorious Bastards, The Princess Bride, Godfather I and II, Seven, Django Unchained, Heat, The Big Lebowski, American Psycho and City of God. I have heard that I need to see Oldboy – a Korean Gangster movie (too bad Netflix won’t work here).

“They can take our lives… but they can never take away… my LiebsterAward!”

8. Tea or coffee?

Finally, a softball. Coffee! Although, we’re becoming more partial to the Italian way of drinking it – cappuccino in the morning and espresso throughout the day. The one habit from the States we kept was a big cup of American coffee in the morning (to extend the morning coffee-drinking ritual) but it’s starting to taste a bit weak in comparison to the espresso used to make cappuccino.

Even Julia prefers coffee

9. What is your guilty pleasure?

Getting an obscene amount of food (see any of the above junk meals from McDonalds, Five Guys, Chipotle or a Chinese restaurant) and settling in for a new movie release on TV. I have loved doing this with Jen since college when I would get the food from our dining halls (on Jen’s meal plan – mine would be empty) and watch movies on VHS (as opposed to today’s more convenient, On Demand).

10. Are you a morning person or a night owl?

Not sure I fall into either of these categories. I don’t like to get up incredibly early and I don’t like to stay up too late. However, I’d have to lean more towards morning – I just seem to be a bit more productive before 10:00am.

11. What would be your dream job?

I would like to work for an Italian company that has operations in the US and would need me to manage their US branch. This would allow me to keep ties with Italy and live in the US. Additionally, I would like to develop residential and commercial properties and start a management company to oversee the real estate portfolio. Taking applications for business partners now…

Now Presenting the Liebster to…

B and J have a wonderful blog, Two DC that revolves around their life exploring a new city. The blog has a heavy food focus but also highlights many wonderful activities that they encounter in DC. They moved to DC in 2007 but I have to say…. I can’t comment on the future of the blog since they have just completed a cross country trip to their new home in the Bay Area. Hopefully there will be a Two Cali coming soon.

Our friend Amy has a great blog, One Preppy Cookie where she blogs about her life and her cookie business. Be warned – her pictures will make you hungry for dessert!

Elaine McCardel lives in Michigan but cooks wonderful Italian food, featured on The Italian Dish. Her images and recipes are both awe-inspiring to us. Can you say, blog-envy??

And Their Questions Are…

1) Are you a fan of social media and if so, do you prefer Facebook, Twitter, Pintrest, FourSquare, Linkedin, Tumbler, Instagram, etc?

2) What accomplishment are you most proud of?

3) What’s your favorite thing to cook?

4) Pick your favorite company – large or small, profit or non-profit and explain why.

5) What is your all-time favorite TV show?

6) What is the longest stint you’ve ever spent awake and why?

7) Where is your favorite beach?

8) Detail your dream vacation.

9) What is something that surprised you recently?

10) Mac or PC? iPhone or Galaxy?

11) Name your superpower – ability to fly, invisibility, immortality, telepathy, super speed or something else.

Cooking, Family Stories, Food and Drink, Holidays, Humor, Landscape, Photography, Sipping Espresso, Travel - Italy, Tuscany

Facebook Brought Us To Tuscany

May 14, 2013 Greg

Facebook is great for a lot of things. First of all, it’s a wonderful time killer. It is a spectacular medium for sharing funny videos about cats. The site is also great for shameless self-promotion of your unimportant blog (ahem). Facebook keeps me and Jen apprised of popular youtube videos and trending pop-culture stories we would have otherwise missed living in another country. But perhaps best of all – it helps reconnect people after many, many years.

This is how you “like” a post on Italian Facebook

This was recently the case when my wife re-connected with a high school friend of ours, now living in Tuscana (Tuscany). Beth traveled to Rome in 1999 to study abroad. There, she found her love and has been living in Italy ever since (to clarify, I mean a man – not just a love of the country). While they enjoyed living in Rome together, they eventually moved back to his hometown in Tuscany, a short distance from Pisa. It was here that Beth and Andrea started a family together with the birth of their son, Indi. We were thrilled we got to spend some time with them in their amazing home and had the opportunity to reconnect with Beth while getting to know Indi and Andrea (whom we both loved).

Beth and Indi

Beth’s “front yard”

Still in the front

More views from the front – ridiculous, I know!!

Jen and Beth had been exchanging Facebook messages about getting together (we’re roughly 3 hours apart) almost since we moved to Italy this past January. And then, the timing seemed to click perfectly. The 25th of April is Liberation Day in Italy. Festa della Liberazione is a holiday that marks the end of Mussolini’s Social Republic and the end of the Nazi occupation in Italy in 1945. Today, this holiday is celebrated with the closure of nearly all business, which affords the people a good reason to get together and do what Italians do best – eat wonderful food, drink amazing wine and trade passionate stories.

Congregating after lunch

As we soon discovered, Beth lives in an incredible 500 year old farmhouse and her neighbors were having a party for the holiday. There was to be a big lunch outdoors, with music, kids and plenty of wine. She invited us for lunch and extended the invitation through the long weekend. I don’t know anyone that would turn down such an amazing invitation – and we were no exception.

The farmhouse Beth and Andrea share (the building in back)

Their home

Another angle

Building used to store hay – now used for parties

The plan was to arrive just ahead of lunch – the real start of the party. It was to be a typical Italian lunch, with all the courses and dishes we love – but, quite literally Under The Tuscan Sun and with some regional favorites we were eager to try. I would not allow our typical tardiness out the front door get in the way of this epic meal. So, I fibbed and told Jen we needed to be on the road earlier than we really did. Then, I budgeted an extra 30 minutes for typical trip delays (over an hour buffer in total). If you know me, you’ll know this was the type of meal I would not want to miss!

Everything was going according to plan until we neared Milan some 40 minutes down the road. Traffic got a bit thicker. By the time we got on the Autostrada toward Tuscany, we were stuck in stand-still traffic, moving 0 km/hour. That converts to 0 mp/hour. I watched the GPS arrival time creep later and later. 11:30am turned into 12:00pm and before you knew it, 1:00pm. I tried a short cut that just added to the time. By noon (and an estimated arrival of 3:00pm) we sullenly threw in the towel. We pulled over and ate panini at the AutoGrill. I swear as the day is long – I’m getting depressed all over again just typing this. The sandwiches were good – but nothing like what we were missing. Thankfully, we kept our spirits high and pulled into Beth’s house by 3:30 (a seven hour trip).

The remnants of the meal we missed

Since everyone had eaten, we jumped right into the party. Beth has some spectacular friends and we had a wonderful time. It came as no surprise that everyone was so warm and inviting. They talked to us as if we had been friends for 15 years and took to Julia as if they had watched her grow up. We drank wine, fresh mojitos and swayed to the beats of the DJ spinning outside. We spread our toes in the Tuscan grass and ate some fresh food off the grill.

Relaxing together

Julia loved playing with Indi

DJ spinning great music

My kind of speaker set-up

Part of the party

Say “formaggio!”

This nice kid fired up the grill for us

At one point, a big blue tractor showed up and it almost sounded like some of the male partygoers were arguing with the man driving the tractor. I recognized a few words and hand gestures usually only reserved for a type of heated debate. After a few minutes, the arguing died down and the guys walked with the tractor driver to the bar area to get a drink together, laughing like they were best friends. It didn’t seem to make any sense until Beth explained.

What’s this guy doing here?

The land we were on (including the farmhouse, all the structures and ten more homes nearby) belonged to the Marchese (Marquis). The Marchese is a man of noble decent who carries his title and rules his lands as if he were still in power. In reality, he has no more power than you or me. That is – if you or me had a noble bloodline, hundreds of acres in Tuscany, a mansion, dozens of employees and a several properties on our land. In 1948, the newly adopted constitution of Italy refused to recognize all noble titles (the Republic of Italy replaced the Kingdom of Italy in 1946). So, the Marchese (whom I was fascinated to learn loves the aristocratic pastime of hunting with dogs) “rules” his lands and everyone is just sort of happy to let him go on thinking it. He had “ordered” this man to drive up the hill in his tractor to tell us to lower the music. At home in the States, I can imagine a property manager (at the behest of the landlord) banging on someone’s front door to tell them to lower the music would be greeted with a bit of disdain. He would certainly not be invited in for a drink and food. But this is Italy. After a couple glasses of wine together, we lowered the music and the man drove back down the hill having successfully completed his task. But not before letting Julia drive his tractor – quite literally, he let her steer unaided for about 10 meters (until she almost put him into a field).

Only a small portion of the Marchese’s house can be seen here – it was huge

He let Julia drive

She was ready to GO!

After some time, we decided to go in and feed the kids and make a proper meal. Beth’s time in Italy was definitely evident, as she “whipped up” on the best pasta dishes we’ve had since arriving here. We paired with another wine and settled in for a relaxing weekend in Tuscany.

Dinner is about to be served – LOVED the charm in her home

Wonderful Tuscan dinner

Baby Indi munching on his mom’s wonderful cooking

More to come about this amazing weekend in Tuscany in a subsequent post…

Castles, Family Stories, Humor, Salzburg, Sipping Espresso, Travel - Europe

How Do You Say, “The End” in German?

May 4, 2013 Greg

Two posts about the Dolomites and now four posts about Austria… will the posts about this road trip ever end?! I promise, I’ll wrap it up here… I think I’m spending as much time writing as I did enjoying the trip!

An unfortunate haze covers a beautiful city

You may have gathered (HERE) that we instantly fell in love with Salzburg and extended our trip by an extra day/night to see more. We started day one with a visit to a castle, Hohenwerfen Fortress and so I thought starting our second day with a visit to it’s sister castle, Festung Hohensalzburg would be appropriate.

Castle tower

Inside the main gates

From the main courtyard

Festung Hohensalzburg (literally, High Salzburg Fortress) sits atop the Festungberg Mountain, commanding a view of all Salzburg – a useful feature during the middle ages. Today, the opposite is even better – a view of the beautiful castle is ever-present as you walk through the city below. I described a history of it’s sister castle (HERE) – the purpose for this castle was the same. The original fortification began in 1077 under Archbishop Gebhard von Helfenstein as one of three fortifications during the Investiture Controversy. Today, it remains as one of the largest medieval castles in all of Europe.

The day was hazy, which was unfortunate given our high position over the city. I was hoping to capture some amazing panoramas of the city – but the haze wanted to get in my way. Still, the castle tour was amazing. We started with a ride up the funicular and then wound our way through the various museums built into the original fortress.

A ride up the funicular

Beautiful views blocked by fog

Wouldn’t want to pick a fight with this crew

I like my lady wearing a bit more “contemporary” undergarments

Don’t be a jackass in the 15th century – or else you’d be sporting this

Guys – just go ahead and shiver. Yeah, this punishment is for THAT

The chapel

Julia found her knight in shining armor

Leaving the main castle

“My milkshake brings all the boys to the yard…no, really. Where’s my milkshake?”

Castle tower

View from below

Next up, a classic Sound of Music attraction – Schloss Leopoldskron. The movie was filmed in Salzburg in 1965 and Schloss Leopoldskron, an amazing estate just outside the city – served as the backdrop for some of the most infamous scenes. Surprisingly, the city’s fascination with the movie consumed me and I did an ample amount of research about the film. It turns out, many tour operators pass off the estate as the Von Trapp Family home featured in the movie. Couple points of order (during which, we’ll take a brief detour). The movie, The Sound of Music staring Julie Andrews (America’s earlier version of Julia Roberts) was based on the 1959 musical, The Von Trapp Family Singers. The musical was based on the real life Von Trapp family, a family that lived in Austria in the early 1900’s. OK – this brings us back to Schloss Leopoldskron, which is often falsely presented as the Von Trapp home. The real family did not live there (they lived in a more modest estate in another neighborhood). This was not their home in the movie (there’s only one brief front exterior scene of the Von Trapp home, and that was yet another estate). They did not film inside (the interior shots were done in Hollywood). So, why on earth would anyone come here? Well, it’s easy for tours to pass off as the home because it’s a wonderful sight to behold and who really remembers anyway?! The tie to the movie you ask… remember when the kids paddle home in the canoe to meet The Captain’s girlfriend (and fall in the lake, getting soaked in the process)? Well, that scene was filmed here (and the subsequent scene with the pink lemonade). In any event, it made for a nice walk along the side of the castle and down into another town. Plus, we still had a lot of sausage and pretzels to work off!

We followed a beautiful road that wrapped us around the castle

Julia kept wanting to “pet” the ducks – Villa in the back

Schloss Leopoldskron – castle in the background

A stroll with one of my favorite ladies

As we walked back, we navigated through town and then walked along the river. Our new mission – successfully make it to Augustinerkloster und Brau – a beer house and oh, so much more! But we passed an outdoor food market… the best kind of market. I had to stop and get a German sandwich.

Rooftop view along the route back to the city

Soft pretzels – I happen to be a sucker

I love me some vendor food – this place made a mean sandwich

Eventually, we made it to Augustinerbier. The monastery, now turned beer hall is furnished with a large dining area (picture your mall’s food court, but exclusively German food… and no samples on toothpicks), several great halls for drinking, a beer garden and more. The brewery was founded in 1621 by Augustinian monks called from Bavaria. To this day, they follow the Purity Law of Brewing, set in 1516. Your journey begins by picking a mug (the size of your choosing) and then washing it in a communal sink. Next, you present your mug to be filled and go find your seat. Many of the tables are reserved, so move fast! We were among the first through the doors at 3:00pm on a Wednesday and the place was packed within 20 minutes. Many of the tables are reserved for individuals and companies – just like box seats at a stadium.

The most amazing beer house I’ve ever been to outside of Munich

I think this says, “Come in and enjoy some beer”

Food court before the crowds arrived

Choose your mug

Give it a good rinse (that’s not me, by the way)

Guess who’s is who’s. You’re correct… mine is on the left. Jen has a wooden leg

“Not, ‘cin-cin’ Mom… here you say, ‘prost’!”

Julia on the loose!

Look at the placards on the wall – choice seats go for big bucks

One of the smaller drinking halls

We were bummed it was too cold for the garden – maybe next time

After a couple brews (and apple juices for Julia) we had another Sound of Music destination – Mirabellgarten. These immaculate gardens are beautifully maintained and offer the perfect line of sight to the castle on the hill. They are also great for singing “do-ray-me-fa-so-la-te-do” and running beneath a tunnel of foliage. I even helped a group of college girls photograph a replica of the moment when the Von Trapp family jumps on the entry steps. They could only jump about 4″ off the ground. It was not easy to photograph.

Beautifully maintained garden

Perfect juxtaposition with the castle – sad about the haze

Julia wanted to ride the “horse”

Early for flowers – but in a nice bloom

Julia ran around like a kid in a candy store

I had all of three seconds to capture this shot

The Von Trapps ran under this archway in the movie

A nice fountain

Many beautiful statues

As the sun fell behind my new favorite castle, we headed back toward the hotel to eat dinner. We finally found Das Stadtwirtshaus, a restaurant near our hotel that we were unsuccessful in finding the day before. The 24 hour wait was worth it – everything about the restaurant was exactly what we wanted. Truly authentic and delicious. Unfortunately, a full week in some of the most amazing places we’d ever seen and my camera’s memory card was full, so you’ll have to imagine this meal along with us.

The next day we woke up early and enjoyed a nice breakfast in our hotel. Afterward, we piled into the car and began the six hour ride home. Our three-day trip that turned into a two-country-week-long-tour was finally over. And so are the stories about this particular family adventure. Thanks for reading!

Castles, Family Stories, Humor, Sipping Espresso, Travel - Europe

A Castle? OK… I’ll Take Two!

April 25, 2013 Greg

I did it! I saw my first castle. It was wonderful – so tender and caring. And it lasted all morning! A first I’ll never forget!

Hohenwerfen Fortress

When we drove into Austria, the hardest part after visiting Innsbruck (read about it HERE) was choosing which castle to visit. We had already planned on visiting Salzburg next, so I carefully chose among the four major castles near the city. I settled on Hohenwerfen Fortress about 40 km southeast of Salzburg. The plan was simple – leave Innsbruck early and drive straight to the castle. We would spend an hour or so at Hohenwerfen Fortress and then head to our hotel in Salzburg. My plan was solid – but I underestimated how much fun we’d have at the castle, and we ended up staying nearly four hours.

The original fortification was started nearly 1,000 years ago and has withstood an interesting history full of war, civil unrest, fire and constant expansion and re-construction. The castle sits high atop a 155m rock in the town of Werfen, Austria.

The castle commands a view of the entire valley *stock photo

A watch guard’s view from one of the towers

The original fortress was commissioned in 1075 by Archbishop Gebhard of Salzburg (along with it’s “sister” castle Fortress Hohensalzburg, which we saw two days later). It was built as a stronghold during the Investiture Controversy, a beef between Kings and Popes that somehow lasted nearly 50 years. What were they were fighting over, you ask? The right to appoint church officials, such as Bishops and Abbots. I didn’t understand why this was such an important issue for the monarchies, but after reading a bit on the battle – I was not surprised to learn it boiled down to one of the three major “fighting follies” (as defined by me… term is patent pending). It always boils down to money (to include lands), ego (to include power and legacy) or a woman (self explanatory). Back then, the title of Bishop came with a substantial amount of wealth and land. And since a title was simply a commodity that could be appointed by a king… the monarchy could sell the title and make a tidy little profit. So, in this case – it was about money (although, I wouldn’t be surprised if there was a woman in there somewhere).

In one corner, we had King Henry IV – a German King since the age of 6. And in the other corner, we had Pope Gregory VII (I’m pulling for him… his name makes him seem trustworthy. And probably good looking). The Pope essentially claimed that since the Roman church was founded by none other than God, it’s power to appoint Bishops lay solely with the Pope himself. King Henry (now a man) disagreed and vocalized it in a public letter to the Pope, essentially starting a 50 year battle-royale, beginning in 1075. And so the Archbishop of Salzburg (an ally of my man, Gregory) built three major castles as protection against the German king. The ending you ask? Well… everyone should know, you don’t mess with a Gregory! The Papacy gained the right of appointment.

Lower courtyard *stock photo

Even though this castle had a long and bloody past, our visit was rather tranquil and quite pleasant. At the base of the great rock (upon which the castle is perched) we had the option of riding a funicular (cable car) or walking up a path. Since it was early in the day and the weather was perfect, we opted to walk. Julia also enjoyed stretching her legs after being in the car for two hours.

“Look mom, I’m a hiker!”

Julia was definitely happier walking…

…and exploring!

View of the valley from the path

Entering through the gates

The castle’s main fortification walls

There was a house inside the gates that was inhabited – groundskeeper?

Admission to the castle (€11 per person) included quite a bit. A walking tour with audio guide, an impressive falconry display of flight, an illuminating exhibition on the construction of the castle, an interactive history of weaponry and a museum on the history of falconry. You can see why we were there for four hours!

Julia particularly enjoyed the audio guide

The falconry show was about to begin

Our timing through the castle gates was perfect. Just minutes after we bought our tickets, the flight show commenced, featuring many different types of falcons and other birds of prey. It was purely breathtaking.

The Falconer explains the presentation

She shows us the first Falcon

One of the falcons in flight

Naturally, the birds loved taking to the air

The Falcons got right in the crowd

My favorite part was the majestical eagle. The falconer had some fun with the crowds. He would prompt these great birds to fly just a few feet over our heads. It was a great way to start the castle tour.

The eagle – our favorite

He’s headed right for us

RIGHT FOR US!!!

Next, we moved on to the guided castle tour, which was in German. Fortunately, we got electronic audio guides that we used. The tour guide herself was trilingual so she was able to field all our questions. It took some time to navigate through the chapel, prisons, torture chambers, royal quarters, bell tower and more.

We’re about to go in!

Love the turrets

View of the monarchies chambers and courtyard

Birds in flight – another demonstration had commenced

The castle’s chapel, reconstructed in the 16th century

Bob here, simulates an archer at his post

This stone weighed 1/2 ton – no problem for me!

A device in the torture chamber

Our group crammed into the torture chamber

A scene along the tour

The loo – it opened straight down the side of the outer wall

400 year old wood floors in the bell tower

Jen and Julia climbing to the top of the bell tower

The bell would sound to wake everyone up

Julia tried to ring it

We spent some additional time walking around the various parts of the castle, including the main courtyard, and museums of weaponry and falconry. We also grabbed a light lunch at the restaurant in the original dining hall of the castle.

Julia in the courtyard

Playing on one of the unicorns (FYI – I nailed 4/5 rings from 12′ out)

Bell tower (reconstructed in 1826 after a fire)

Julia in the dining hall before her lunch

I was more than happy that my first real castle didn’t disappoint! Next, we headed off to Salzburg… a lot more on that wonderful trip to come!

Castles, Family Stories, Humor, Landscape, Travel - Europe

“G’day Mate” from Innsbruck, Austria

April 23, 2013 Greg

Strange… not only do they not say, “g’day mate” in Austria – they speak German! Oh well, what’re you gonna do?!

Innsbruck, Austria

After we spent four wonderful days in the Dolomiti mountains (which you can read about HERE and HERE), we planned an impromptu trip to Austria. The Dolomites span across the northern end of the Italy, just south of Austria. A quick google search confirmed that we could arrive in Innsbruck in under three hours and the opportunity was too good to pass up. Once we explained our plan to visit Innsbruck to Claudia’s cousin, Angelo – he suggested we also stop by Salzburg. Well, what’s another couple hours drive and another day or two? After all, we didn’t think we’d be back in Austria anytime soon.

I spent our last night in Canale D’ Agordo (Italy) booking an Innsbruck hotel, researching tourist attractions and planning our itinerary. I was up early, with breakfast in my belly and our luggage in the car by 8:30am. We got on the road at 11:30am.

The GPS took us on small streets winding through the mountains, as opposed to the faster Autostrada – and that was perfectly fine with us. The drive into Austria was probably the most pleasurable drive I’ve ever undertaken. While I loved chauffeuring my wife and baby, I must admit that I did envision instead riding my motorcycle; and sadly missed my poor Harley, sitting all by it’s lonesome in Maryland.

View from the road departing the Dolomites

A two-lane tunnel shooting through the mountain

Jen and I were awe-struck by the mountainous scenery; but also impressed by one noticeable phenomenon. Once we crossed over the border into Austria, there seemed to be a castle or fortress at every turn. I was nearly giddy – I’ve been on a caste-hunt since I moved to Italy. And now I was as excited as a boy on prom night, knowing my first castle was just around the corner.

We were greeted by a castle almost immediately upon entering Austria

Older fortresses lined the newer road

We arrived in Innsbruck around mid-day and checked into our hotel. We set out to walk and enjoy some of the sights the city had to offer. Our hotel was centrally located (thank you, booking.com), so we wound slowly through the old city toward the funicular (cable car up the mountain). Innsbruck has astonishing mountains surrounding the entire city, and we intended on elevating ourselves high enough to command a view of the entire city.

The Old City in Innsbruck

Great architecture

A pretty church peeking out

Along the way, we saw signs for the city zoo – an attraction I had read was enjoyable for families. Since it was on the way, we decided to let Julia have some fun of her own. What we didn’t realize was the trek was going to be quite challenging by foot.

Talk about your uphill climb!

We were tempted to stop here, but we pushed on

We continued to climb for over an hour on steep vertical streets until we finally arrived at the zoo. We eagerly entered, excited to take a break from the climb up the mountain. Oooohhh… so sorry! Since the zoo was literally built into the side of a mountain – the zoo itself wound upward still. I guess that explains why the mountain goats had one of the most impressive exhibits (and one of my favorites).

Alpenzoo – we made it!

Majestic wolf – he had just finished dancing with Kevin Costner

Large brown bear who got within feet of us

Julia wanted to play with a bear of her own

There was a petting zoo for Julia, who always loves getting a chance to pet the cute farm animals.

“Stop watching moooo eat!!!”

Adorable lil guys!

“Uhh, mom – these guys are a little scary”

Stopping for a quick drink

“Momma, guarda (look)!”

As we wound our way through the zoo’s path, we spotted various bird sanctuaries just off to the side. Everyone had the option to enter and get face to face with various birds (without any glass or cages). I opted to go in each one, but Jen has a small fear of birds so she didn’t go in any of these exhibits. However, strangely enough – the path eventually led us directly into one of these sanctuaries. There was no going around it, so Jen would have to confront her fear. Well, how bad could it be?

As we were walking through (a distance of maybe 20 yards from beginning to end) we first noticed the bird’s lunch – recently digested and lying about four feet from where we were walking. It did not help Jen discover a newfound confidence in these winged mammals.

Lunch?! Ummmm, are we next?!

Next, we came face to face with the great bird itself, taking a drink after it’s lunch.

“Oh, he doesn’t look so bad”

“Well, he’s coming closer”

“Umm, and closer!” (at this point – he was hissing)

Here is Jen, gripped by fear and making a dash for the door

This guy was clearly not happy we had come into his world. He perched atop a nearby rock and hissed until we both cleared from his home. I couldn’t help but laugh at Jen’s gripping fear coming full surface. That is, until I had to walk past him myself. I’d be lying if I didn’t say I hugged the right side of the wall. Next, we came to another one of these death cages. Only, this one was marked by heavy chains!!! What is this?! Some kind of torture zoo?! What type of carnivorous bird was in this exhibit?!

What lies behind the chains?!

Nothing but a bunch of these cute, little guys. WHEW!

After we finished at the zoo, we walked the short way to the funicular. The ride up was fun and the view was truly worth it. We stopped to get a bite for Julia – something that proved to be either a mistake or a wonderful turn of events (depending on how we decided to look at it), as we missed the final cable car by mere minutes. We started the long walk down, a bit nervous about how long the walk might take.

The funicular station

Jen and Julia at the base of the station

View over Innsbruck

The beautiful mountains surround the city

We thought it wise to follow a sign to the zoo, quite some distance below. I knew I could easily get us home from the zoo and so following the sign (as opposed to the actual road) seemed smart at the time. We had no idea this particular route would add a significant amount of time… but also give us a memory of Innsbruck we’d always cherish.

A sign we saw later, noting the path

We didn’t seem to notice as the road narrowed, and then the pavement disappeared. We were too taken with the beauty of nature and the view of the city in the twilight.

City view as the sun sets

A portion of the funicular

When the path started making sharp turns and the branches and rocks started bouncing Julia’s stroller more than a lowrider with hydraulics – we realized we made a mistake. As it turns out, our Italian is far better than our German. The signs we saw pointing toward the zoo were for mountain bikers – we had begun a trajectory that wound us deep into the woods, on a steep descent. There was just enough daylight to keep Jen from worrying too badly and so we made light of the situation. I pointed out the positives – it was certainly a much more direct route down the mountain… and when else would we have an opportunity to hike through the hills in Innsbruck?

The path here was still fairly simple

It got a bit trickier – I took over the stroller

At one point, we found a vast clearing in the woods used as a small campground. I reassured Jen that if we couldn’t find our way out of the woods, we had a wonderful place to camp. She reminded me that we didn’t have any camping gear – I refrained from joking that our love would protect us.

A clearing along the way

Charming old bridge we passed by (but not over)

Back on a solid path, nearly at the bottom

It was dark by the end of the journey

We crossed one final bridge to get back to the city

At long last, we made it the base of the mountain just as the sun had set. We rejoiced at our good fortune and decided a celebration was in order. Since Julia was already fast asleep, we grabbed a bottle of wine and had a little party for two in our hotel room.

The main clock tower, back in town

Innsbruck is simply wonderful and we would love to have been able to spend more time there. But I had already planned the next day, and Hohenwerfen Fortress (my first castle) was calling my name.

Cooking, Family Stories, Food, Food and Drink, Jen's Kitchen, Sipping Espresso

Some Good Ol’ Fashioned Cooking

April 17, 2013 Greg

I recently realized that our “Home Cooking” section of the blog was growing the slowest throughout the entire site. I’m only partly ashamed to admit that the one consistent about our trip is that we’ve been indulging in some of the most amazing food we’ve ever had. However, my OCD recently kicked in when I noticed all our food posts landed in the “Restaurant” or “Jen’s Kitchen” sections. So, in an effort to right this wrong… here is one very memorable home-cooked meal we hosted a little while ago.

Eugenio brought a wonderful Champagne

Jen has a warm and wonderful family, with whom we love spending time. Recently, her cousin Eugenio drove from Torino to spend time with us and get reacquainted with Julia. He brought his lovely girlfriend, Barbara as well.

But enough jabbering… this post is all about the food and drink!

Let’s pop this cork and get the party started!

The night Eugenio and Barbara arrived, we set out a light dinner – just some typical Italian antipasti to nibble on, as well as some regional snacks we all like to enjoy.

Eugenio brought the Champagne

I think we’re going to need a bigger table

Oh wait, there was a free corner – let’s fill it with food

The next day, we had Jen’s cousin Massimo and his beautiful family over for a proper meal.

Vitello (veil) roast from our local butcher…

…after a nice sear

Antipasti for our guests

Claudia and Eugenio horsing around

Wait – who hit who?! Love both their expressions

Jen made a delicious prima (first course) – pasta pomodoro

Yummy!

The secondo, our vitello (veil roast)

Alessandra (Massimo’s wife) made a beautiful torta

We picked up some chiacchiere

Eugenio got some additional pastries

Julia’s cousin Bea, enjoying her ice-cream

Julia stole a taste

Everyone was so stuffed we needed a break with some scotch

It’s not a party unless you serve a second dessert

It was a wonderful weekend filled with too many delicious treats. Hopefully you were able to enjoy as well.

Dolomites, Family Stories, Holidays, Photography, Travel - Italy, UNESCO, Veneto

Easter in the Pope’s Church

April 10, 2013 Greg

This year we took full advantage of living in Italy and went to the Pope’s Church for Easter! Only, it wasn’t in Vatican City and it wasn’t the current Pope. But it was still his church! If I may explain…

Jen and Julia in front of the church in Canale D’ Agordo

If you’ve read a few posts (or know us), you’ll know that we’ve been fortunate enough to live in Jen’s parent’s condo while in Italy. Even more fortunate is that Jen’s Zio (Uncle) Franco and Zia (Aunt) Claudia live above us. This means we’re eaten countless meals upstairs (she’s a wonderful cook), have built in baby sitters, tour guides and translators… basically we have a third set of parents and new besties.

Franco and Claudia both have interesting life stories. We’ll save his for another post.

Claudia was born and raised in Canale D’ Agordo – a town in the Dolomite Mountains, one of the most spectacular places on earth. The Dolomites are a large mountain range in northeast Italy. In 2009 the Dolomiti were declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This means that the mountains are a site with significant importance (and beauty) and are therefore, protected. Interestingly enough, I have just now learned that Italy is home to more UNESCO World Heritage sites than any country in the world. After living here a short time, I cannot say that I am surprised.

Canale is in a valley surrounded by two mountains

Beautiful scenery at every turn

A statue stands near the center of town

The pedestrian bridge leading into town

We’ve been coming to Italy for many years with Jen’s family and I have always wanted to see the Dolomites. I have a strong love for the mountains, most likely due to my love of skiing. I have always been excited to see the Dolomites because they were bound to be at least a little more special than Sugarloaf or Wisp Mountains. They did not disappoint!

Canali D’ Agordo in the foreground of the Dolomiti mountains

Each year, Franco and Claudia spend several weeks together in each of their respective hometowns. Luckily for us – she invited us to join them for part of their trip, over the Easter weekend. This was great because we had no idea what we were going to do for Easter. We were also excited because her town, Canale D’ Agordo was the home to Pope Giovanni Paolo I (Pope John Paul I). Let that sink in for a moment… her small town of roughly 1,000 people was the hometown of the Pope. That’s like saying, “yeah… the President used to live right next to me… here’s his house” Only, he’s not just the leader of a single nation, but rather the spiritual leader of the world.

Pope Giovanni Paolo I – a hometown hero

Pope Giovanni Paolo I has an interesting history. He has the unusual honor of being the shortest reining Pope in history – just 33 days as Sovereign of Vatican City. He is also the most recent Italian-born Pope. It is widely whispered, even today – that his death was not due to natural causes (if you’re a fan of conspiracy theories, you can click HERE to read a few). This cloud of mystery and short reign does nothing to dispel the love and connection that people of Canale and Italy feel for Giovanni Paolo I, The Smiling Pope. In fact, the very next Pope adopted the name of Giovanni Paolo II, to honor and respect his predecessor.

Albino Luciano (as was his given name) was ordained a priest in 1935 and served for a time as the parish priest for the town church (also, one of the main churches in the region), Parraocchia di Canale D’ Agordo, the church you see pictured below.

Parraocchia di Canale D’ Agordo – a 550+ year old church

Jen and Julia in front by the town fountain

We arrived in Canale on Saturday – just in time for a wonderful lunch at Claudia’s home (the home where she was raised). Then she left us to walk around town as she went to help clean the church for Easter’s big service. We walked around the wonderful town, and bumped into about 30 of her cousins along the way.

Julia ridin in style with one of Claudia’s cousins

Julia strikes a pose

On Easter Sunday, we attended a wonderful service (where we understood everything that was said in Italian) in the Pope’s Church, Parracchia di Canale. We walked the short 200 yards back to our beautiful hotel, where the Easter Bunny had left Julia a surprise.

Our hotel on the right

We had her Easter basket ready for her

“What’s that up there?! Is that for ME?!”

“A soccer ball?! Well, I’ll just take this.”

“Don’t worry, I got THIS pops”

“I told you I got this!”

She loved her soccer ball, until she saw her chocolate chick

Which she loved so much, it’s head fell off!

“Here, Nonno Franco – take a bite. Please, it’s my pleasure”

Afterward we went to the town square, where they had set up an outdoor festival. We danced, we ate and we drank.

The festival in the main piazza (town square)

Coin tossing competition – you try to toss your coin into an egg

The winner is the person that sticks the most coins in the eggs

Julia “chill-axing” at the festival

Later in the day, we went to one of Claudia’s cousin’s (another cousin) restaurants and enjoyed some more delicious food.

We started with some antipasti

We each ended with a wonderful dessert

Even Julia got dessert out of a cup featuring her new favorite cartoon (Barbarapappa)

It was a wonderful Easter with great family!

Family Stories, Food and Drink, Humor, Landscape, Restaurants, Sipping Espresso

Pick Your Own Lobster?? Pfffff – That’s Nothing!!

March 28, 2013 Greg

That title will make sense soon. Please, read on. Unless you’re a member of PETA. Then, please stop and choose another post!

“I’m getting out of here – I don’t want to hear about bunnies for lunch!”

You may have read HERE about when our Uncle S. and Aunt Deborah came to see us last week and we enjoyed a very nice visit with three days full of wonderful food. Well, the meal we shared on day three was truly blog-worthy!

I don’t think S. or Deb knew what to expect when they came; and so they came open for anything. But since one of their good friends had been to Lake Como some time ago, he mentioned a few top sights and restaurants to consider. One particular restaurant, Al Veluu appeared to be unbelieveably perfect for us. Al Veluu sits atop a hillside in the wonderful lake town of Tremezzo, thus extending picturesque views of Lake Como (a town we wanted to show them anyway). Their well designed and informative website features images of the lake that somehow seem to take second place to the images of their food. And since I happen to know their referring friend has impeccable taste, it was evidence enough for me!

Hilltop view of Tremezzo

Jen and I discovered the town of Tremezzo whilst exploring the lake at the beginning of our trip, this past January. We were just out for a drive and promised that we would return to explore further as soon as we could. One of the main sights of Tremezzo is Villa Carlotta, a stunning villa with impeccable gardens. Unfortunately, we were three days ahead of the seasonal opening of the villa and thus unable to see. Expect a blog post about it in the near future.

Villa Carlotta

We allotted plenty of time for a relatively short drive. We needed to wind our way to the base of the lake and up with western side of the west leg. In this case, it was as much about the journey as the destination. While winding through the narrow streets of lake town after lake town, we took in the sites of the water and incredible villas (including that of the local celebrity, George Clooney – no, he wasn’t out).

Al Veluu – our intended destination

Timing it perfectly, we arrived at Al Veluu just as they should have been opening for pranzo (lunch). However, as you know – the best laid plans are always the first to go awry. The place seemed to have a few too many construction workers and too few diners. I went up to talk to the proprietors and see what was going on. Turns out, the only thing on the menu was renovations. Fortunately, the owner, Luca was very nice and suggested another place, La Fagurida. He even invited us to stop by on the way back for a limoncello (lemon drink). He also shared that if we were fans of rabbit (I am), we could do no better than La Fagurida.

Easy-to-miss sign to La Fagurida

Tight squeeze down the driveway – took it sloooow

La Fagurida – the owners live above

We drove up the hill another 300 meters and found the restaurant (he cautioned us not to drive too quickly, lest we miss the small sign). We were charmed by the restaurant’s exterior and even more amazed to see the menu’s pièce de résistance in an open-air cage out front. There was a large cage of bunnies out front. They looked so cute and playful, it even made me think twice about ordering one! While the title jests that I got to pick my own – I assure you, that wasn’t the case. I don’t know if I could have handled that (strangely though, when it comes to lobster I have no problems).

Coniglio Gabbia (Rabbit Cage)

As delicious as they are adorable!

S. and Jules playing with the bunnies

We ordered several wonderful primi (first courses) from the menu and settled in for what looked to be a promising meal. Our table was quickly covered with delectable treats, including the most amazing polenta that any of us had ever had. In fact, we ordered so much that we couldn’t even finish (wanting to save room for our main courses). We should have known that not finishing your food is not an option in an Italian woman’s kitchen and she literally made me and S. finish every plate.

Antipasti della casa
Prosciutto, salami and bresaola

Insalata fagioli borlotti

Insalata gelatina

Cipolle, carciofi e peperoni arrostiti
(Onions, artichokes and roasted peppers)

Polenta uncia e classica

Our secondo (main course) was brought to the table and we each eagerly dove in.

Coniglio arrosto (roasted rabbit) for two

Verdure alla griglia (grilled vegetables)

Spiedino de carne mista (skewer of mixed meats)

Vino della casa in a wonderful bottle

We finished with dessert for Julia and soaked up the view one last time. We wound our way back into town for some coffee and pastries.

Did I feel a bit guilty about staring my lunch in it’s adorable little face? Perhaps a bit – but my guilt was eased by the memory of the delectable meal. As it turns out, they serve about 1,000 rabbits a year – so I was just one of many guilty parties.

Sign above the restaurant

Como, Family Stories, Food and Drink, Humor, Restaurants, Sipping Espresso

Eating On Top Of The World

March 22, 2013 Greg

Last week, we received a visit from our Uncle S. and Aunt Deborah who were traveling through Europe on business. They had planned a stop over visit us before traveling by train to their next destination. We had also coordinated with Jen’s mom, who was departing on the same day they arrived, which saved us a trip to the airport and allowed us to spend the day in Milano (never a bad thing). Whoever said planning is overrated never had traffic and a two year old to contend with.

Julia with her great-uncle S.

Julia was sad to see her Nonna leave, but excited to have new visitors to play with. She instantly recognized S. and Deb as they arrived through customs. Since it was early evening when they landed, we took them back to our condo and had a “light” dinner of bread, salami, salami piccante (spicy salami) prosciutto, cheese, a cannelloni bean salad, acciughe in salsa verde (anchovies in green sauce), insalata finocchio (fennel salad) and insalata caprese with some wonderful buffalo mozzarella. Franco and Claudia came downstairs to join the party and brought some additional goodies of their own. Of course, we had more than a bottle or two of some good vino along with grappa and limoncello to wash it all down.

Julia found a left-handed drinking buddy

We had a long list of activities we wanted to accomplish while they were here, but the three days we had wasn’t enough time to do it all. The only thing to do… plan our lunches and work backwards from there! Since most restaurants are closed one day a week (either Monday, Tuesday or Wednesday depending on the restaurant) and the weather predicted to change dramatically over those three days – I spent a good 30 minutes figuring out the rubik’s-cube that was their trip.

We spent the first day in Lecco (the other “leg” of the lake), the second day eating sopra (above) with Franco and Claudia (who live above us) and the final day in Tremezzo (another lake town). Since both S. and Deb had read the blog post HERE about a wonderful restaurant we discovered who’s cuisine is matched only by the adventure you must undertake to arrive – that was pre-penciled in.

Julia was excited to return to Osteria Montalbano

A quick summary of the restaurant, Osteria Belvedere Montalbano in Lecco (or click the link above); Lake Como has two “legs” with Como at the “foot” of the west leg and Lecco at the foot of the east leg. Lecco has stunning mountains that surround the lake. In order to find the restaurant, you must drive through the town, into a residential area on one of the mountains, enter a private road and continue to wind your way up the mountain. As you approach the end of the road, you’ll find a dirt path that is covered with stones and trees. Turn on your all wheel drive and wind your way up the path for 20 minutes before finding this jewel.

Everyone in front of one of our favorite restaurants

On our first trip, we were lucky enough to make it up this tiny/dangerous road unscathed. This time everything appeared to be going well, when suddenly we came across an obstacle. The road was closed half-way up because a local farmer was chopping trees and one laid clear across the “road”, blocking our path. There is NO turning around or backing down – our only option was to push forward. I hopped out of the car and asked him when he would be done. He said that it would be about 20-30 minutes. I volunteered to help and S and I became his gofers while he continued to skillfully wield his chainsaw. He jokingly said, avete fame (you must be hungry)! We were on our way in less than 10 minutes!

Nothing is going to keep us from getting there!

The food was as spectacular as the first visit and the quantity could have fed a small army, let alone four travelers. Since the menu is seasonal, many of the dishes were repeats for Jen and myself – but we had a couple new dishes, pictured below.

Filet with radicchio and a gorgonzola cream sauce

Roasted rabbit with a white wine reduction

Pan fried polenta

Half pear / half blubbery torte with custard

As we were leaving, we noticed a bocce-ball court that looked like it will be a lot of fun when the weather warms. S. made an astute and funny observation that there wasn’t a flat patch of earth anywhere to be seen for miles, yet they had a perfectly manicured surface to play bocce-ball on the top of a mountain!

Anyone up for a game?

This is my bench… don’t even think about it!

Deb and Julia sharing a laugh

We’re looking forward to visiting Osteria Belvedere Montalbano again when our next adventurous visitors come to see us!

Cooking, Family Stories, Food, Jen's Kitchen, Recipes, Sipping Espresso

Homemade Pizza – Sorry Mr. Delivery Man

March 20, 2013 Greg

Here is something my Mom, Greg and I all have in common…we love Pizza. And pizza in Italy is the best! Pizza originated in Italy and they have continued to perfect the art ever since. When my Mom was in town we decided to make our own versions of our favorite pizza’s at home. We had so much fun and Julia even got in on the action.

Rolling out her dough

When I told my uncle our plan to try to duplicate our favorite pizza’s at home he gave us a brief history lesson on the pizza. As it turns out, pizza started as a flatbread consumed by many people in Europe. In 16^th century this was a common meal sold on the streets to the poor throughout Naples. It was an inexpensive dish that offered many different types of toppings. Credit for the first Margherita pizza is given to pizza maker Raffaele Esposito of Naples. The story is that in June of 1889 to honor the Queen consort of Italy, Margherita of Savoy, he created a “Pizza Margherita” for the Queen (I had to get that from Wiki – History of Pizza) . This pizza consisted of tomatoes, mozzarella cheese and basil to represent the colors of the Italian flag. Thank you Raffaele! Today people around the world enjoy this simple but delicious pizza.

Our own Pizza Margherita

After our history lesson we were ready to prepare dinner. On the menu were our three favorite dishes. Diane’s favorite, Pizza Margarita; Greg’s, a Napoli Pizza; and my go to, Quattro Formaggi (four cheese).

Pizza Napoli

Quattro formaggio

We wanted dinner to be “easy” so we opted for store bought pizza dough. We will try making the dough another day. We also don’t have any fancy pizza stones or brick ovens here but we managed to create a crispy crust and pretty darn good pizza. Here is what we did:

All of the pizza’s started off with the same crust. Coat the baking pan with a little bit of olive oil so that the dough doesn’t stick. Instead of rolling out the dough we used our hands to stretch it and work it into a circle for the baking sheet. Once on the baking sheet we used a fork to poke a few holes in the dough (to prevent bubbles). Next we drizzled some olive oil and added some sea salt. Below is how to make the different types of pizza.

Drizzle olive oil on the dough

Pizza Margarita

For the sauce use a can of crushed San Marzano tomatoes. Simple is always best! Next you need to add slices of mozzarella cheese and fresh basil. Or, you can also choose to add the basil to the pizza after it comes out of the oven. It’s totally up to you! Either way you end up with a beautiful red, white and green pizza.

Crushed tomatoes as the sauce

Next, add your toppings

Pizza Napoli

Again, for the sauce simply use a can of crushed San Marzano tomatoes. Next, add slices of mozzarella, provolone and grated parmigiano reggiano cheese. What makes this a Napoli Pizza is adding acciughe(anchovies) as the final step. Feel comfortable to arrange them in any pattern you like.

The acciughe (anchovies) – Greg’s favorite

Pizza Quattro Formaggi

There is no need for sauce when making this pizza. Since the pizza is a four cheese, it does not need any sauce as a base. Instead, use some olive oil and crushed garlic on the dough. Our four cheese pizza consisted of mozzarella, provolone, grated parmigiano reggiano and gorgonzola cheese. Feel free to substitute any or all of the cheeses for your favorite (and if you’re feeling really crazy, make it a five or even six cheese pizza!).

Give spacing for your gorgonzola – it will melt over a large surface

All three pizza’s will cook in under 10 minutes at 425 degrees Fahrenheit. The trick is to watch the pizza and look for the crust to brown and the cheese to start to bubble. Once the crust is crispy enough to transfer, remove the pizza from the baking sheet and finish cooking it directly on the oven rack. This will give it a crispy crust without the brick oven. When you remove the pizza’s allow the cheese to cool for a few minutes before you cut and serve.